X Motor mount for Anet A8

by Simhopp, published

X Motor mount for Anet A8 by Simhopp Mar 19, 2016
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X Motor mount and end stop and lead screw mount and linear bearing mount for
Anet 3D "Anet A8" model Prusa i3 3D printer aka "Omni" aka "m-505".
Acrylic framed printers with 5 button next to LCD screen.

may be the same printer as "senhai", "hesine", "kaleep", "kakeep" and others?

but not printers with rotary switch next to LCD screen, such as "geetech", "sunhokey" etc.

SketchUp model,

used 36, 24, 12 sided polygon rather than circle or arc for easy editing.
used minimal bevel or chamfer for same reason.

every dimensions are precisely entered manually in millimeter units.

X rod hole diameter motor end = 8.4mm (rod diameter = 8mm)
x rod hole diameter idler end = 8.6mm
Linear Bearing hole diameter = 15.2mm (bearing diameter = 15mm)
Lead screw hole diameter = 11mm (lead screw diameter = 10.2mm)
Lead screw M3 bolt hole diameter = 3.4mm (M3 bolt diameter = 3mm)

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Hi, this works very well. I just modified right side tensioner and side plate for a smoother look (find in remixes). Can anyone take a picture of the z axis adjustment setup? It seems that it uses ridiculously long M4 bolt and it's placed right behind the Z axis rods.

Hi ! May I know how to split them using craftware ?

I have no idea since I don't use craftware.

ok thanks

On the left hand X Mount, if you rotate it 180 degrees you can print without any support; however, now the turn knob and the Z stop are floating. Am I missing something? How can manipulate the other part so i can print without support?

in Cura
right click on the object
split objects into parts.

I re-loaded the file and right clicked on the object.
I found the option “Ungroup Models” however it will not let me use it the option is not selectable for this file.

using Cura version 2.3.1

Feb 23, 2017 - Modified Feb 23, 2017

Sorry for that stupid question but in the comments I havent found anything enlightening:

How do I assemble the Z adjustment (at the back of the left X mount)? Could you add a picture of the final build?


PS: Why not making that ship-like thing of the right X-tensioner solid? These overhangs are terrible to print and look pretty ugly in the end.

Can i ask why this is so ?
X rod hole diameter motor end = 8.4mm (rod diameter = 8mm)
x rod hole diameter idler end = 8.6mm

why not make both ends the same dimension holes?
( Forgive me if this is a stupid question)

Also i ask because when printed new bearings (IGUS style) the carriage tends to stick more to the side of the motor rather than the side of the idler.

motor end should be tight, idler end should be able to slide in and out when the tightening bolts are tightened.

thanks for the reply.
Im just curious to why the smooth rods that the hot ends carriage slides along should be tight one end and the other end is loose.

I can feel the carriage stick more towards the motor end because of this tighter hold vs the idler end which is less tight so further apart thus causing less friction on the bearings of the hot end carriage towards the idler side of the smooth rods.

This is quite interesting and must be some sort of engineering magic heh

reason for that has to do with the belt.

if the x-axis rods are stuck in the plastic parts on both end,

when you tighten the belt, it will put the pressure on the two z-axis vertical rod and two threaded rods and bend them.
which will make vertical travel difficult, and vertical movement not straight.

by having only motor side of the x-axis rod tight and the idler end slide,
you can now put the belt tension pressure on the x-axis rod, rather than the z-axis rod.
and z-axis rods will not get any side way bending stress from the belt.

thanks so much :D
Im glad i asked the right person lol
Is this design better then the original or a direct copy ? thanks!

(also ive used the x axis belt tightener that puts the stress on the smooth x rods)
do you know why i would have more sticking towards the motor end than the idler end ?
i could sand down the inside of the igus bearing more on the x carriage but that would cause more play in the bearing and carriage movement.

I just printed the idler, and interestingly this is the first print I ever had warping with (PLA). It isn't as bad as the original TronXY part, but about half a mm is still too much for the runner nut. So it seems there's something with the general design that makes it hard to print. Maybe someone can come up with an alternative that doesn't suffer from this?

I need to print this because the hole for the screw shaft and its holding screws are offset... The whole screw shaft is tilted inwards but I fixed it enough to make low quality prints... Will this be perfectly accurate??? Please... I dont want to dismantle the whole machine and send it back because of this relatively small piece...

you need to print out http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1683070
trust me after installing it the rods will no longer be bent.
The Z axis being tight causes tension on the Z bearing and pulls them together
The fix is to print that part and then the tension is put onto the ends of the hot end carriage rods not the bearings of the Z up / down threaded rods.

Anet A8 Improved X-belt Tensioner

Maybe a dumb question but, witch filament is best for this, abs or will pla work?

whichever works for you.

I think PLA is dimensionally more stable than ABS.

May i ask you where you got the dimensions of the motor from?
Thanks in advance :)

from the motor itself ..... ?

Excellent design. I've just printed the x-tension end - perfect fit! Can you give some detail on how it all screws together, please? Specifically the suggested length for the lateral adjustment bolt, and what/if bolts should go in the top/bottom holes of the anchor piece. Many thanks.

Nov 17, 2016 - Modified Nov 17, 2016
Simhopp - in reply to CheechRockwizard


here is photo of the assembled parts.

you will need couple of M3 15mm bolts, and one 40mm or so M4 bolt and a nut

in addition to parts removed from the original.

Belt tensioning modification for Anet A8
by Simhopp

Thanks for the ilink and your prompt response! Keep up the good work :)

what infill should i use for good quality and stability?

top, bottom, side wall to 2.0 mm and 30% infill should be more than enough.

I don't understand, why so many objects? What are they all for, or they just different options? Thanks!

Aug 31, 2016 - Modified Aug 31, 2016
Simhopp - in reply to IsmaelPR1

there are only 4 objects,

  1. x motor mount (no z end stop adjustment)
  2. x motor mount with z end stop adjustment.
  3. x idler mount (no x belt tension adjustment)
  4. x idler mount with x belt tension adjustment.

is it easy to take out the old bearings to use on this?

yes, just put a pen or something and push it out.

it is just pressure/friction fit.

Don't thank me until you print out the model and it is actually working.

What nuts and bolt sizes are required for the tensioner?

Aug 9, 2016 - Modified Aug 9, 2016
Simhopp - in reply to gaLcH

M4 becasue that is only size that is readily available at Home Depot or Lowes.

you may want to try this too


Belt tensioning modification for Anet A8
by Simhopp

One question: what is the function of the two tiny slows beside the big square slot? if i print this with s3d, there will be support material inside these slots, right?

Jun 17, 2016 - Modified Jun 17, 2016
Simhopp - in reply to sebastianheyn

you don't need to have support material,

it will print fine without any support, because 3d printer can bridge the 8mm gap without any problem.

the slots are to make the round hole little more flexible, so the rod can be inserted more easily but still be grabbed by the plastic.

motor mount need to be printed upside down to be printed without any support.

I made a mod to the SketchUp file and regenerated a .stl file for the left side. I added a mount for an adjusting screw for the Y-Stop which will mount to the Z-motor. I needed a new piece as the holes did not line up for the motor mount on the original and I do not like the z-stop setup and could not find screws to mount an adjustor mount that I did like. It's printing now. Thanks for posting the .skp file, that's a lot of work.

Holes for the smooth rods are too small

Mar 29, 2016 - Modified Mar 29, 2016
Simhopp - in reply to broy55

well, it all depends on your printer setup,

3 solutions,

  1. open the model in 3d modeling software, and increase the diameter of hole by 2-5%.and reprint.

  2. get a 8mm drill bit, and drill the hole little bigger.

  3. wrap a sandpaper onto a 5-7mm thick rod and sand the hole bigger.