heat pro repman heater for preventing warping.
by jamesvilleneuve, published
Description
i soldered one end of the resistors to the copper board, applied a thin layer of tape to the area across that was not soldered, and then soldered the other end to a wire . the red wire was positive, the copper plate was negative, i then soldered the copper board with a black wire, and then taped several times over the copper side with the resistors several times to allow heat to stay in. using the resistor values is ok, a method that uses 330ohms is used to keep telescopes from fogging at night. the idea is to provide enough energy in heat that can be dissipated safely. the soldered end of the resistor transfers heat to the copper board. the copper acts as a heat spreader, and the pcb acts as a good stick layer for thermal plastic. I also have a video here:
youtube.com/watch?v=pDEkp3ym1TE
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yup. its been done before, and a similar method is used to defog telescope lenses. the copper is on the bottom where the resistors are soldered to. the pcb is the top, and if you ruff it up a tiny bit it sticks just fine. i thought people would like something that a local electronics shop would have. i can't find neo chrome wire at radio shack here in usa, but i sure can find 220ohm 1/4 watt resistors. you need 1 resistor for every 1.5 square inches. it heats hot! but running it for 24hrs steady it did not burn or scorch one of them! the ideas is the solder and the one resister lead to the copper board act as a heat sink and the copper board is a heat spreader. you lay down plastic on the fiberglass side. - I am redesigning it to look better and have acrylic surface with copper roofing material. i think heating acrylic causes it to become a sticky surface to plastic. If you want one to play around with for free just post a reply to me here and state in subject 'free board' provide me your dimensions of where to place the holes for mounts and the size of your current board. also your address. that goes for any one willing to give me feedback on how it works for them . It may take month or so to receive as i need to machine the acrylic, and its free labor :) . I'll make and ship 10 of these for people to try. I'll post here when i got 10 people ready to try this thing... thx. james
Damn, why I wasn't put here my heated bed even when I had it done month ago :-D But my is 25cmx25cm (10x10inch) :-) I dont know about the copper plates so much but I've tried many metal surfaces and the arent very good for sticking plastic :-/ even at 100
°C :-(( Heres the link if is someone interested http://prusadjs.cz/2009/11/loo... Now I'm working on MK II, more durable and stable :-)
yeah. I'm redoing the repman 'heat pro' version above as it works, i want it to look better. then making a maker bot version. I need the dimensions of the maker bot as i do not have one, so if no one answers i will go look at maker bot documentation and pray i get it correct. I am thinking of making 10 of these for people for free with the understanding that they let me know how it works for them.......
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Instructions
25-30 220ohm resisters (not any lower that this value, and max voltage 14volts!)
a cnc machine to cut out parts. the file is what i used to cut thru 3 .1 inch layers of acrylic stacked on top of each other and mounted.
the top acrylic sheet will have a 6inch by 6 inch square. use grinder and re size circuit board to fit into this square.
add in resistors evenly spaces, although since copper spreads heat it should not need to be exact.
once device is wired, then pour urethane to keep resistors safe and to keep heat in.
also the part that faces out is the pcb side. the copper side is is inside and coated with urethane
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wow this would go great on the makerbot to help reducr curling
yeah. I'm redoing the repman 'heat pro' version above as it works, i want it to look better. then making a maker bot version. I need the dimensions of the maker bot as i do not have one, so if no one answers i will go look at maker bot documentation and pray i get it correct. I am thinking of making 10 of these for people for free with the understanding that they let me know how it works for them.......
Damn, why I wasn't put here my heated bed even when I had it done month ago :-D But my is 25cmx25cm (10x10inch) :-) I dont know about the copper plates so much but I've tried many metal surfaces and the arent very good for sticking plastic :-/ even at 100
°C :-(( Heres the link if is someone interested http://prusadjs.cz/2009/11/loo... Now I'm working on MK II, more durable and stable :-)
yup. its been done before, and a similar method is used to defog telescope lenses. the copper is on the bottom where the resistors are soldered to. the pcb is the top, and if you ruff it up a tiny bit it sticks just fine. i thought people would like something that a local electronics shop would have. i can't find neo chrome wire at radio shack here in usa, but i sure can find 220ohm 1/4 watt resistors. you need 1 resistor for every 1.5 square inches. it heats hot! but running it for 24hrs steady it did not burn or scorch one of them! the ideas is the solder and the one resister lead to the copper board act as a heat sink and the copper board is a heat spreader. you lay down plastic on the fiberglass side. - I am redesigning it to look better and have acrylic surface with copper roofing material. i think heating acrylic causes it to become a sticky surface to plastic. If you want one to play around with for free just post a reply to me here and state in subject 'free board' provide me your dimensions of where to place the holes for mounts and the size of your current board. also your address. that goes for any one willing to give me feedback on how it works for them . It may take month or so to receive as i need to machine the acrylic, and its free labor :) . I'll make and ship 10 of these for people to try. I'll post here when i got 10 people ready to try this thing... thx. james