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ABS Glue

by ProtoParadigm, published

ABS Glue by ProtoParadigm Dec 10, 2011

Description

Official Write-Up at protoparadigm.com/2011/12/abs-glue-weld-cast-texture-and-more/

Here's something that should make plastic life a lot easier. Fuse parts, smooth, shine and texture prints, even cast ABS at room temperature.

Recent Comments

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This works great. I find it takes several hours (at least overnight) to fully cure, but once it does it's definitely stronger than the printed layers from my makerbot!

Hi , Using a mix of this nature works awesome to stick the prints down but I find wiping with acetone degrades the sufrace layer of the Kapton Tape (under a microscope) it tends to tear easier after having acetone wiped on the tape,

I use a 90% acteoene 10% mix applying to a moderate heat bed at 60 odd degrees and this makes the acetone evaporate prior to penetrating into the tape.

I use this mix on a replicator and an evolution (non heated)

As suggested thinned PVA wood glue is the what I use for PLA on a non heated bed.

Sure can, I'd be hesitant to use it in all the situations I use this. I like knowing the grade of ABS I'm using matches what i'm printing with (they can all be very different) and appreciate having control over the color and consistency.

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License

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Instructions

The blog post above does a much better job of explaining and demonstrating than is possible in these descriptions. Check it out!

!! Use in a well ventilated area and avoid skin contact !!

1. Mix 1/3 filament clippings to 2/3 Acetone in a cleaned out nail enamel/polish container.

2. Swirl about and wait to set.


Fuse/Weld:
Brush on surfaces to be joined and press together, hold or support long enough to set. Such as Plastic T-Slot thingiverse.com/thing:10261

Shine, Smooth, Texture:
Experiment with different concentrations of filament to Acetone and brushes to paint a layer over your prints, smoothing them or lay a textured surface against surface transferring desired texture.

Cold Casting:
Print PLA molds. Apply multiple applications of ABS Glue as the Acetone evaporates. A light concentration to straight Acetone at the top can help smooth the top surface. The ProtoParadigm Logo in the images is an example of this process. Dried glue can be peeled or scraped off where applied accidentally.

These are only a few of the uses we've explored. Make some, try it out and see what you come up with.

Comments

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Anonymous on Nov 18, 2013 said:

This works great. I find it takes several hours (at least overnight) to fully cure, but once it does it's definitely stronger than the printed layers from my makerbot!

Anonymous on Sep 13, 2012 said:

Hi , Using a mix of this nature works awesome to stick the prints down but I find wiping with acetone degrades the sufrace layer of the Kapton Tape (under a microscope) it tends to tear easier after having acetone wiped on the tape,

I use a 90% acteoene 10% mix applying to a moderate heat bed at 60 odd degrees and this makes the acetone evaporate prior to penetrating into the tape.

I use this mix on a replicator and an evolution (non heated)

As suggested thinned PVA wood glue is the what I use for PLA on a non heated bed.

Anonymous on Jan 22, 2012 said:

Just in case people don't know, you can buy clear or black ABS cement in the plumbing department of most hardware stores. 1 can will last quite a while. You can also make thick layers for filling gaps (it turns into sturdy ABS). I use it with my Makerbot all the time.

LukeChilson on Jan 22, 2012 said:

Sure can, I'd be hesitant to use it in all the situations I use this. I like knowing the grade of ABS I'm using matches what i'm printing with (they can all be very different) and appreciate having control over the color and consistency.

loomer on Dec 31, 2011 said:

This is great- I've been applying a light coat to my heated build platform and getting excellent stick that is still easy to peel off. Achieving my best build results ever and with no rafts.

LukeChilson on Dec 31, 2011 said:

I'll +1 to that. The ABS in Acetone helps other materials stick too. I'm printing Polycarbonate without a heated bed on an ultimaker doing the same thing

Erik on Dec 29, 2011 said:

thanks now i can fix some rare cb7 taillights

ssd on Dec 20, 2011 said:

For thin coats of glue or small holes/gaps that need filling, this works well.

However, this does not work to fill large areas or physically join filaments, as the glue shrinks and/or leaves voids when the acetone evaporates. Filaments joined this way may be weak.

The best way to join filaments is by welding them and then trimming the result.

magdesign on Dec 13, 2011 said:

thanks for sharing this great idea!

jsadusk on Dec 13, 2011 said:

Is there a solvent that will make usable PLA glue? I tried to do this with acetone, and instead of dissolving PLA like it does with ABS, it made the PLA become hard and crumbly and developed a white sheen on it, and it never completely dissolved. The resultant acetone left behind didn't seem any different.

Anonymous on Dec 23, 2011 said:

I read in the reprap IRC a while back that PLA will dissolve in chloroform or a sodium hydroxide solution. Can't say for certain, but that's what people seemed to agree on at the time.

LukeChilson on Dec 13, 2011 said:

I should actually have a list hit my inbox shortly containing a list of chemicals and their ranking as solvents for PLA. I'll certainly be back with any useful information.

edmo on Dec 13, 2011 said:

I use something similar to this for woodworking (filling holes and minor glue jobs). I did a writeup about it here: http://lumberjocks.com/mdedm/b...

Polystyrene has a shear force of 750 PSI. I'm sure ABS is very close to this number, too.

polymaker on Dec 12, 2011 said:

OK so crazy idea...

What if you mix a bunch of this stuff out of old failed prints and pushed it through a 3 mm tube? Would that make usable filament?

jgrout on Dec 31, 2011 said:

I really like the idea of using "non-virgin" filament (i.e. old leftover or rejected printed items) instead of new filament. Even if you only use it as glue, it still is a form of recycling.

Anonymous on Dec 15, 2011 said:

The acetone would be too costly to make this very useful

bsg on Dec 11, 2011 said:

What's the grade/purity of the acetone you're using? Also, when you talk about 1/3 or 2/3 of whatever into the little containers, are you talking about height in the container to where you fill? Thanks

ProtoParadigm on Dec 12, 2011 said:

Just standard hardware store Acetone. Those numbers were referring to the ratio; for the ratio of 2:1 Acetone to filament I just pour in the acetone first to about half way and then put in filament until another quarter of the container is full. That way there is still a quarter left to experiment with to get the consistency I want. It's not super critical, as you'll probably play around getting it where you want it. If you're only fusing pieces together it doesn't take much filament in there to be effective.

SplotchyInk on Dec 11, 2011 said:

Very interesting.

Have you tried using the glue to fuse fillaments together so that one could, lets say, make multi colored prints without having to use or fabricate some complicated heated fillament fuser of some sort?

M_G on Dec 11, 2011 said:

I've tried this (gluing filaments sections end-on with ABS glue) myself and been very disappointed with the results! Perhaps others have had/will have better luck.

Anonymous on Dec 11, 2011 said:

This should be part of everyone's standard kit!

ProtoParadigm on Dec 12, 2011 said:

We think so, it's simple to make and surprisingly effective!

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