by hlyman, published

LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V3 by hlyman Sep 3, 2013


The LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER V3 is a complete filament extruding assembly for extruding 3D printer filament. It extrudes and winds the filament onto a spool which it then ready for use.

The BOM shows a cost figure of near $900. The extruder alone can be made for under $250.

See the video on YouTube:


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Thank you!

See the latest version 4.1 where the water cooling is omitted and only cooled with a fan. Control your one motor with a switch and pot direct from the DC supply. Controller not needed for one motor unless your using a stepper motor.

Probable cause of locking up is that your temp may be to high and overheating the core nipple back near the flange causing pellets to preheat and bind the spool. I extrude at a temp now of 185C. Take the assembly apart and clean out the nipple. You will have to do this carefully while it is hot. I had this same problem when I tried an aluminum nipple.

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This Thing has been a 6 month project. The uploaded manual will give you the information on making your own. I have included a cad dfx file for those who wish to improve, correct, add to or make for resale. As there are many folks with more know how than me, any suggestion with documentation is welcomed. Good luck, WORLD.


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ricciolini on Apr 14, 2014 said:

Thank you!

hlyman on Apr 14, 2014 said:

Probable cause of locking up is that your temp may be to high and overheating the core nipple back near the flange causing pellets to preheat and bind the spool. I extrude at a temp now of 185C. Take the assembly apart and clean out the nipple. You will have to do this carefully while it is hot. I had this same problem when I tried an aluminum nipple.

ricciolini on Apr 14, 2014 said:

Hi Lyman, I'm building one using a geared stepper motor and arduino controlled. May I ask your opinion on this: it appears to be blocked up. Auger bit rotating at 11 rpm (max) and temperature 240 Celsius. Have you come across similar problem? Help woyuld be much appreciated. Thanks

IFLS on Apr 9, 2014 said:

Can anyone throw up a diagram/drawing of how to wire this thing if I only want to use the extruder and not the water cooler or spool winder? I am bit confused as to how the motor will be controlled....

hlyman on Apr 14, 2014 said:

See the latest version 4.1 where the water cooling is omitted and only cooled with a fan. Control your one motor with a switch and pot direct from the DC supply. Controller not needed for one motor unless your using a stepper motor.

Anisimov on Feb 24, 2014 said:

Hellow. I'm from Russia. You filment extruder is very intresting for me.
I have read about new version 4. When it will be accessible for buying?
What about extrusion speed 3.00/1.75 filament in this version? What
does filament extruder v4 cost? Thank You.

3DforED on Feb 20, 2014 said:

The Lyman extruder costs about $900 to build as shown and takes about 12-14 hours to assemble & test. You will have to find a resource to print your parts, or buy a 3D printer. This exact version is being built & tested in Seattle, and we are working on offering a kit for $499, but you still have to print your own parts. Also, please note when you download the files off of Thingiverse, you have to either open the parts in inches (except for the Saber part) or multiply it by 25.4 It is possible there will be an updated assembled version of this extruder available assembled, but the timeline is looking to be towards June 2014 because we are sourcing parts in bulk.

trublu289 on Jan 31, 2014 said:

Is there a scale for the printed parts? I opened them in slicer but they were really small

sonex128 on Jan 31, 2014 said:

Scale them by 25.4 or open them in inches if your software will let you.

munn0515 on Jan 30, 2014 said:

This is really great! I'm creating an extruder for my senior design project for the Chemical Engineering department. Where did you find the coupler for the auger? I am struggling to find one for a 7/16" hex bore

mnutsch on Feb 6, 2014 said:

Something I found is that the aluminum coupler for the extruder motor keeps getting torn on my build. You may want to go with the most durable coupler that you can find.

spencermat on Jan 29, 2014 said:

Is there any place i can by a kit for this and if so where?

elmoret on Feb 2, 2014 said:

Filastruder is cheaper and simpler - www.filastruder.com.

hlyman on Jan 29, 2014 said:

Lyman Filament Extruder V4 will be published in the next few weeks.
There are several firms interested is furnishing kits and when that happens I will post a note with in Thing.

Makiboxfan408 on Jan 28, 2014 said:

What's the size of the largest 3D printed part?

hlyman on Jan 29, 2014 said:

165L X 90W X 105H mm +/-

IFLS on Jan 27, 2014 said:

Here is another motor that should be a decent enough substitute for anyone out there wondering: http://www.kysanelectronics.co...

mnutsch on Jan 27, 2014 said:

Hugh, there is something that I think you modified but didn't update in the build instructions. In the parts list and in the video there are LED's and resistors to make power lights. However the parts list also specifies SPST (Single Pull Single Throw) switches. The electrical wiring diagram also doesn't specify the LED's. In order to put a power light on an AC circuit, the switches need to be SPDT (Single Pull Double Throw). The LED and resistor have to be on a different parallel circuit connected to the same SPDT switch as the AC parts.

elmoret on Feb 25, 2014 said:

It's pole, not pull, and you can certainly use SPST switches with AC circuits. The lightswitches in your house are a prime example.

bobnojio on Jan 30, 2014 said:

or you could use SPST switches and simply add an AC lamp. using an AC lamp in-circuit with the actual electronics, you could in theory also use the device itself as the resistive load for the lamp.

IFLS on Jan 23, 2014 said:

Since the SuperDroid motor specified in the BOM is not available I went ahead and got this one, hopefully it does OK: http://www.phidgets.com/produc...

hlyman on Jan 24, 2014 said:

Looks good, it has great torque, run it wide open and you may get 50" per minute. Let us know how you do with it. Also you will have to run the puller motor faster.

TheCase on Jan 23, 2014 said:

I've read this thing up and down and cannot find the resize ratio for the STL parts. I'm looking at the #90 KNOB and its x=1.18mm y=1.57mm Z=0.72mm - what is the proper resize factor?

hlyman on Jan 24, 2014 said:

Up the scale X 25.4

sonex128 on Jan 23, 2014 said:

The parts are drawn in inches.

mnutsch on Jan 19, 2014 said:

Some feedback:

I could not get 3mm PLA to extrude properly. It was too liquid to get it started in the water and puller. I did however get 1.75mm PLA to extrude properly. I used a 1/16" drill bit to drill the plug. The filament extruded is consistent and almost the perfect diameter. I'm not even sure that you really need the water cooling for it.

Unfortunately the plastic mount for extruder motor snapped from the pressure. I am going to redesign my hopper assembly using something stronger than plastic to mount the extruder motor.

I think that the red and blank wires for the extruder motor to the Sabertooth may be reversed in the wiring diagram.

I powered the Sabertooth directly from the power supply instead of using a battery and it seemed to work fine.

IFLS on Jan 22, 2014 said:

was your plastic mount printed in abs or pla, and at what infill settings?

IFLS on Jan 15, 2014 said:

Question for anyone who knows anything about motors, seeing as how the SuperDroid motor called for in the BOM won't be available for another 2 months, would this motor be an aqequate substitute: http://www.oem.co.uk/products/... ?

hlyman on Jan 15, 2014 said:

It looks fine to me if has an encoder, but trail and error. Use the Type 01 at 13rpm. You can also use a smaller one for the puller motor.

BEM on Jan 15, 2014 said:

Hey I really like the design, but when I downloaded the stl files I am not able to look at the dimensions and maybe modify it a little bit. I was wondering if you could send the file so I would be able to see the dimensions and able to change it.

IFLS on Jan 16, 2014 said:

BEM Also, what motor did you use for this project as I have put in orders for everything else on the BOM but superdroid doesnt have the recommended one in stock so I am at a bit of loss at this point. Any help is appreciated, thanks

IFLS on Jan 15, 2014 said:

BEM, try MESH Mixer, Geomagic, Meshlab and Netfabb to modify STLs. Also, autodesk inventor (dunno what software you are using) has a plug in that allows for import and modification of STL files, as does Solidworks.

hlyman on Jan 15, 2014 said:

I am to busy now to do anymore downloads. Mount your motor to an aluminum plate and fit it to the hopper.

1965mt on Jan 4, 2014 said:

Nice work on this! I have a couple of questions. Is there any issue with the barrel/hopper getting too hot after extended running?
Also, does this do an acceptable job in final diameter control? The dimensions are one aspect but how does this filament react in a 3D printer?

hlyman on Jan 4, 2014 said:

The barrel is hot back to the flange connection. The hopper does not get hot if you have the insulation block installed correctly. The hopper is ABS. The the tolerance of the filament diameter vary +/- 0.10 mm. It reacts fine in my 3D printer, such as I have printed beautiful Aphrodite statues and dozens of good parts including 16 each 8" filament spools I use for winding filament on. It takes from 5 t0 7 hours to fill an 8" spool depending on your pellets and I have filled over 30 spools. so you see there is no problem with extended running.

sonex128 on Jan 3, 2014 said:

Thanks for sharing all the info on this. I have all the parts coming to build just the extruder right now.

Mekong89 on Jan 2, 2014 said:

Hi, please share me your P, I, D factor value. On my case, temperature not stable, the tolerance is +/-4 celsius degree, I have tried many PID factor, but it's not better. The temperature not stable make the filament diameter not stable.

hlyman on Jan 2, 2014 said:

My PID varies (-) 0.2 to (+) 0.4 degrees C at 175 C, which I am now extruding PLA pellets at. It is the same PID used on my first extruder.

mnutsch on Dec 30, 2013 said:

I finally finished building my v3 extruder!

debasish on Dec 28, 2013 said:

dear sir

can i used this auger inplace of the auger suggested??i cant get the suggested auger in our country...please help me!!
i am giving you the site...please check it...i am in the middle of the project...please help!!!!!!!!!:):):):):):):)


Cos on Dec 25, 2013 said:

My version of v3 is here!! http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

mnutsch on Dec 18, 2013 said:

I've finished machining and assembling my Lyman v3 extrusion machine. The only thing that I have left is wiring.
Something which I'm not sure about is if the relay has to be solid state. I accidentally ordered a regular electro-mechanical relay instead of a solid state relay. Does anyone know of there is a problem with using a normal relay with a temperature controller?

kalazzerx on Dec 26, 2013 said:

Solid state is what you need in order to handle the PWM. Mechanical relay cannot handle to modulation cycles - I use Solid State for a large heat bed - mechanical did not work!

hlyman on Dec 18, 2013 said:

Try it.

mnutsch on Dec 9, 2013 said:

I'm getting pretty close to finishing building this extruder. Something I found is that part #'s 22 and 25 say M3 washers and screws. However these parts should be M4 size to fit the motors listed in the plans. Also, the screws need to be shorter than the 15mm listed. (I would guess that they can be ground down to the proper size.)

hlyman on Dec 18, 2013 said:


mnutsch on Dec 6, 2013 said:

FYI - Part # 87, Sabertooth Standoff, is a 3D printed part. However it is not included in the STL files. I'm guessing that this only helps attach the motor driver to the control panel and isn't really a critical part.

hlyman on Dec 8, 2013 said:

As noted in the manual, page 38 "if needed machine the auger end to 3/8" ". This is what I did on my first one and I reamed the brass flange bushing with a 13/64" drill. The next three I use a 7/16" thrust bearing and it work perfect.

hlyman on Dec 6, 2013 said:

I just download the stl file for the Sabertooth. As my manual noted there would be some omissions. Sorry and thanks.

mnutsch on Nov 26, 2013 said:

FYI - This wasn't obvious from the parts list. In retrospect a "pipe clamp" thermocouple for part # 30 would be preferable. I got a regular thermocouple and am now trying to figure out how to attach it to the nozzle assembly.

mnutsch on Nov 26, 2013 said:

Here is my suggestion for part # 30. The outside diameter of part 14 is 0.8", so this should fit perfectly. http://www.amazon.com/0-400-Ce...

owiseone on Nov 24, 2013 said:

What are the specifics on the solid state relay for the v3? My friend and I are trying to build the v3 for a school project and we weren't sure which specifications the solid state relay must have.

hlyman on Nov 26, 2013 said:

If you study the wiring diagram you will see that it controls the heat band which is 110V. The PID controls the relay which regulates the temperature of the heat band (nozzle) at the desired temperature.

mnutsch on Nov 23, 2013 said:

Maybe I misunderstand how the couplers (part # 24) work, but I think that they are listed with the wrong size. The parts list lists them as 10mmx6.35mm. However, they don't appear to fit. I think that they should 10mmx8mm couplers, where the 10mm end connects to the auger bit (part # 45) and the 8mm end connects to the motor (part # 23).

hlyman on Nov 24, 2013 said:

mnutsch, you are right. What I forgot was that the 10mm x 6.3 was one I had on hand and it machined it to fit. Also I drilled and tapped it for 4mm set screws for positive holding.

mnutsch on Nov 10, 2013 said:

I put together a list of all of the machining that is needed to make this. Here it is in case someone else finds it helpful:

1. Print the 3D printed parts. Part #’s 58, 61, 62, 19, 33, 38
2. Measure, cut, and drill the boards to size. Part #’s 3, 4, 5, 50, 51, 52, 70
3. Drill the steel flat bar with both sizes of drill bit. 4 small holes (1 in each corner). 1 large hole in the center. Part # 17.
4. Weld the steel flat bar and the nipple together. Part #’s 17 and 14
5. Cut and drill the rigid insulator board. 4 small holes (1 in each corner). 1 large hole in the center. Part # 18.
6. Drill a hole in the center of the ½” NPT Brass Plug. The hole should be either 1.75mm or 3mm. Part # 11
7. Cut the auger bit to size. Part # 45
8. Cut the 3/8” steel shaft to size, twice. Part #’s 31 & 39
9. Measure, cut, and drill the plexiglass to make part # 35.
10. Measure, cut, and glue the plexiglass to make part # 41.
11. Measure, cut, and and drill the phenolic sheet to mark 4 washers, part # 49.

mnutsch on Oct 29, 2013 said:

I'm making this thing and have a few questions and comments.

* If you order the motors (part 23) through Amazon then you can get them from the same supplier (Superdroid) for half the price as Superdroid's website.

* The Urethane Drive Rollers come in different "durometers" (or hardness). Is there a specific "durometer" that you recommend for the rollers? I ordered the softest ones.

* What is part # 46? It is listed on the schematic, but not the part list.

* Parts 82 and 23 have typos in the supplier name on the Sorted By Supplier list.

* Are the tubing sizes "inside diameter" or "outside diameter"? I'm working off the assumption that they are "inside diameter".

hlyman on Oct 29, 2013 said:

I didn't find the gear motor on Amazon now.

The Urethane Drive Roller is 35a Durometers.

Part # 46 is shown on Page 8. Thanks for noting the the error. I am not using it yet, WIP.

Parts 82 & 23 are not the only typo errors.

Probably "inside diameter", not knowing what part you are referring to.

I have made three additional nozzle assemblies each for different colors. In place of Part #14 I used a 1/2" pipe floor flange thus eliminating the welding.

wavelock on Oct 27, 2013 said:

Hi, Do you have instructions for 240 Voltages power? Thanks in advance!

hlyman on Oct 29, 2013 said:

No, try a transformer.

hlyman on Oct 25, 2013 said:

The motors from:


will be in stock mid November, 2013

ejhiller on Oct 24, 2013 said:


For your design you call for 24V geared motors with encoders with a very high torque ratio. Is it possible to use a smaller motor for this system. The ones suggested are sold out. I was looking at motors with similar features but the price jumps significantly. Would a 12V motor work along as you have a voltage regulator of course? I really enjoy this design and the specs behind it, just fairly new to the idea of building an extruder.

Thanks in advance!

hlyman on Oct 24, 2013 said:

I would think a 12V motor will work OK if it has 30 Kgf-cm rating or better. I run my extruder motor wide open to get 30 to 40 inches per minute. The puller motor does not have to be a strong, but they both have to tuned through the Kangaroo.
I have contacted the motor supplier to see when they will be available as I am making three more extruders, one for each color and wish to buy three more motors. When I hear back from supplier I will post a note here.

hlyman on Oct 17, 2013 said:

The V3 extruder is now running and after extruding 500 feet of filament in 2 1/2 hours I took readings of the filament diameter.
It is using the third nozzle of four I have made with the end of the auger bit 1/4" from the inlet to the brass nozzle. The brass nozzle is a hollow core, so the 2.69mm (#37 drill bit) nozzle hole is only about 3mm long.

Uploaded is a PDF file of the reading for those who are interested.
Extruding rate at 40" per minute.

hlyman on Oct 16, 2013 said:


I just uploaded a pdf file of revisions I have made.
1. Revised wiring diagram, showing pullup boards, external M2 pot and filament cooling fan.

2. Photo showing of the fan I added.
Added are:
1. Fan located 1/4" from the nozzle ahead of the water cooling.
2. External 10 turn precision pot to control the puller M2 motor.
3. Fan to cool the M1 motor, (not shown in wiring diagram).

I have completed extruding ten plus spools of filament and have use three for printing parts for my padding press.
Further I have made one extra hot end core and am now making two more, each for different colors.
In timing the extrusion rate I have found that It varies. It has varied from 24" to 48" per minute from one day to next. This I don't understand yet, it may be room (shop) temp, humidity, filament color or ?.

If I don't answer your comment questions it is because it is in the manual or available on the suppliers website.

enixidfrag on Oct 16, 2013 said:

What is the space between the nozzle and tip of the auger.

idalog on Oct 14, 2013 said:

Great design, very excited to build this. I'm having a problem locating the TD-044-013 from SuperDroll Robotics as they are out of stock currently. I have been attempting to source from different vendors with no luck. Can you please reply with high level performance requirements so we can figure out a substitution to try?

TheTimShow on Oct 11, 2013 said:

Hi, I was wondering whether powder would be better than plastic pellets? What do you think? Thanks in advance Tim

Cos on Oct 5, 2013 said:

Question.... what is the scale factor for the parts to convert them to metric? 25,4? thnx.

Cos on Sep 30, 2013 said:

Thanks! I was looking forward for a spooling system like this! Although i was making progress with V2 and i was making the filament already curved to spiral, i couldn't find a way to wind it to a spool at the same time.Anyway, time to go to the bench!

mirox3m on Sep 25, 2013 said:

Unfortunatelly I can't find the geared motor specifications - RPM, rated current, torque. It is 24 v. I couldn't find info based on the part number in BoM. Help is appreciated :)

hlyman on Sep 26, 2013 said:
Bazzwaldo on Sep 21, 2013 said:

Hi Hugh
I have a few questions for you

Firstly I am a complete novice at electronics but quite curious
1) Why do you have a 24v battery setup (part 88) when you have a 24v power supply (part 86) as per parts list?
2) With regard to the roller using the same geared motor as the extruder, a) Is it's main purpose to help maintain correct filament dia, and b) isn't it's torque rating (30kf-cm) quite high for its purpose?
3) Could you avoid using an encoder for the two geared motors and use a USB connected speed controller board with PID?

Thanks in advance with your great effort, I want to make one myself but first I'm trying to understand both what and why you used the equipment you did to make your extruder V3


hlyman on Sep 21, 2013 said:

1. The battery is required for the micro processor.
2. You can use any gear motor as long as it has the same rpm and an encoder for the puller rollers. it does run slower than the extruder motor. I am adding a separate pot to the kangaroo with 10 turns for finer control.

3. I don't know, you are probably better at electronics than I. Try it and let us know how it works.
Good questions, thanks.

i4lingual on Sep 14, 2013 said:

Hi again, whilst waiting for the hopper to print out, I was watching the Strudittle video. I am wondering why that extruder and the ExtruderBot use such a small opening for the hopper for the pellets to flow through. Looks like about 1/3 the length of your V3 extruder. What are you thoughts on this issue, as I am sure you must have thought about this? Thanks.

hlyman on Sep 15, 2013 said:

There are a lot smarter folks out there than I am. I like what others are doing to make a great machine. It will most likely be better them mine.

i4lingual on Sep 14, 2013 said:

Greetings Lyman, Thanks a million for your time and effort on this project! I have just started printing the Hopper-motor-base. I have a couple of questions about flow rate: It looks like you can extrude 3ft/min, right? What are the limiting factors? Motor Torque, Auger efficiency, or heating speed, ie: heater can't heat fast enough to keep up? I suppose it is a combination of those factors. Do you think you could double that extrusion speed with a higher torque motor, and more heating elements? Thank you again!

hlyman on Sep 15, 2013 said:

I am not sure about the flow rate etc. as I only design it, make and tinker with it. Right now I am now I am only extruding at 24" per minute and am still working on a better tolerance. It is still a work in progress. You can build a machine with all the variables you mentioned.

Stnobal on Sep 12, 2013 said:

Lyman i have a few questions 1- de temp set is 180 degres for abs??
2 - with this extrusor can mix colors? like red and white to get pink
3 - and the tolerance of the filament extruded ?

hlyman on Sep 13, 2013 said:

This is still a work in progress!!
1. I have been trying temps from 175 to 215 C.
2. Yes
3. Tolerance is not yet what I want.
I will post future improvements as I keep tinkering.

mjkargar on Sep 11, 2013 said:

dear lyman
i made version 2 and use for 3mm filament.
but i have 2 problem.
if you can, please help me.
1. speed of extrude is very low (3" per min)
2. when ABS filament go out from nozzle then after 1 min, filament bend.
i very try but don't success solve 2 problem.

hlyman on Sep 12, 2013 said:

Not sure what your problems are.
It may be your nozzle is not heating correctly.
It may be your thermocouple is faulty.
Or the wrong kind of pellets.

Try different temp settings. You should be able stretch the filament as it exit the nozzle down to a thin diameter.

mjkargar on Sep 11, 2013 said:

very tanks for design
What parameter Causes to version3 increase speed of extrude?

hlyman on Sep 11, 2013 said:

Motor, temp, nozzle orifice diamenter.

bfish85 on Sep 9, 2013 said:

Excellent design; much advancement over the first iteration! For any of those who don't want to go through the assembly themselves, I'm launching a Kickstarter which was inspired by the Lyman Filament Extruder. It's called the STRUdittle, is has a very small footprint (~6.4" x 9.4" x 8") and the first 5 will sell for $275:)... Autospooler as a separate unit will be available too. Launches tonight ~12am! I'll post the link on here then.

hlyman on Sep 11, 2013 said:

Nice work.
I plan to buy one after you have delivered the first 5. Let me know what you plan to sell the whole system for.

bfish85 on Sep 10, 2013 said:

It is now live -- please feel free to check out:


gizmo on Sep 7, 2013 said:

What is the distance between the end of the screw and the beginning of the nozzle. thks

hlyman on Sep 11, 2013 said:

+/- 1.5"

hlyman on Sep 8, 2013 said:

I am trying different distances, right now it is 1/4" from the nozzle.

gizmo on Sep 7, 2013 said:

Congratulations again for this new project!

Quick question: how do you adjust the speed of the spooler, as more time passes and the diameter of the wire at the spooler therefore increases the tension on the wire changes.

thank you

hlyman on Sep 8, 2013 said:

The motor runs fast and the latex tube on the motor shaft slips on the outer edge of the spool keeping a constant pressure on the filament only winding it on the spool as it leaves the pull rollers. Thus, as the diameter of the filament on the spool increases so does the slippage. Watch the video

inv4der on Sep 5, 2013 said:

Hi Mr. Lyman, great job, could you tell me how much does it produces per minute or hour?

hlyman on Sep 5, 2013 said:

Page 3 in the manual. 24" to 30" per minute

ashleylf on Sep 5, 2013 said:

Do you think I could use this setup to extrude PCL filaments from PCL granules?
Also, do you think the quality of the fibers would still be considered medical grade after running through the extruder?

elmoret on Sep 5, 2013 said:

Definitely not, considering there are steel and lead based components in contact with the polymer.

hlyman on Sep 5, 2013 said:

I don't know, never tried PCL, but I would think so. I don't know anything about medical grade stuff.

phonx on Sep 5, 2013 said:

Nice, I hope this would make everyone happy now :)

SaintJProductions on Sep 5, 2013 said:

Any thoughts on adding a pc heatsink with fan to the water box to help with the water cooling?

hlyman on Sep 5, 2013 said:

No need to, as the filament is dry and solid before it enters the puller assembly. It never gets over 90 degrees F and 110 is ok.

mronchi on Sep 4, 2013 said:

You can improve the water cooling by using this thing... http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

hlyman on Sep 5, 2013 said:

I plan on trying it.

Tlcouch on Sep 4, 2013 said:

I was working on designing my own filament extruded and had considered using water for a rapid cooling.
Any concerns with the filament absorbing water?

hlyman on Sep 5, 2013 said:

I detect no problem with water absorbing. The filament is dry and hard before it enters the puller rollers.

bottleworks on Sep 4, 2013 said:

They need to feature this one. Once again, nice work!

bottleworks on Sep 4, 2013 said:

They need to feature this one. Once again, nice work!

hlyman on Sep 3, 2013 said:

I just fried the 12V spool winder motor as I in error turned up the pot. So I have omitted the Pot and set the voltage with the voltage regulator to control the speed. Once set at a good speed it should not have to adjusted again. Also I forgot to show it in the pictures but it is shown in the wiring diagram.

drandolph on Sep 3, 2013 said:

This looks like a compact version of the industrial extruders out there with the cool tray , take up wheel and winder steps. How are you managing speed at the take up reel without putting stress on the filament as it exits the hot end? Is it necessary? My understanding is thats why the water tray is so large on the industrial versions but I could be wrong.

elmoret on Sep 5, 2013 said:

The water tray on pro extruders needs to be 10+ ft long because extrusion speed is much higher. You can't drop the average temperature of the polymer much in a 4" water bath when it is moving at 50feet/min.

hlyman on Sep 3, 2013 said:

You should find the answer by reading the manual on LYMAN FILAMENT WINDUP SPOOL. The drive shaft turns faster than the spool so it slips on the edge of the spool keeping a constant pressure so it can only wind the filament as it exits the puller rollers. There is no stress on the filament as the puller roller maintains a constant speed and grip the filament tightly. Have you read the manual? I may need to add to the manual. But you are right, it is a compact version of an industrial extruder. Thanks for your comment.