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Direct-drive hinged extruder for E3D/J-Head hot-end (Prusa i3)

by ffleurey, published

Direct-drive hinged extruder for E3D/J-Head hot-end (Prusa i3) by ffleurey Sep 7, 2013

Description

Here is my attempt at designing an extruder for my Prusa i3.

I took some inspiration from different designs to try to make an extruder which is easy to print, compact, easy to clean and has tight guides for the filament (to be able to use flexible materials).

I made a couple of test prints with it and it seems to work fine so far. I haven't tested any challenging materials yet, just PLA.

Here are the components:

* [E3D all metal hot end for 1.75mm filament](http://www.e3d-online.com/ourshop/prod_2781400-E3Dv5-All-metal-HotEnd-175mm-Direct-Extrusion.html). It mounts like a J-Head so a J-Head should fit as well.
* [NEMA17 stepper motor](http://robotdigg.com/product/7/NEMA17-Stepper-Motor-40mm-Long,-1.2A). I am using a 40mm motor but any NEMA17 should work. The back of the motor is mounted on the X carriage and all the extruder parts are mounted to the front of the motor.
* [Mk8 Drive Gear](http://reprap.me/epages/reprap_nu_4149051.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/reprap_nu_4149051/Products/%22MK8%20Drive%20Gear%22). The Idler and filament guide are very tight around the Mk8 gear so other gears will probably not fit without modifications.
* **EDIT: The design is now for a 5x10x4 ball bearing** and not the initial [Yoyo ball bearing](http://dx.com/p/steel-ball-bearing-for-yo-yo-5-x-11-x-5mm-127059) (It is a 5x11x5 bearing grooved to 10mm in the center) The groove helps guide the filament but it should also work with a flat 5x10x4, 5x10x5 or 5x11x5 bearing.
* [50mm centrifugal fan](http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-pcs-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-12V-50x15mm-/180389680237?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:FR:3160) (5015S 12V 50x15mm)
* A Spring. I am using one from an [IKEA PRESSA clothespin](http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30108607/).
* Some M3 and M4 screws and nuts.

**EDIT - Version 1.1:**
After a bit of testing, the grooved bearing worked fine with PLA and Nylon but not with [Flexibel PolyEster](http://www.plastic2print.com/eu/1-75mm-tpe-filament-natural-0-50kg-shore-40d.html) so I switched to a flat 5x10x4 bearing. I improved a bit the "idler arm" to make it able to squeeze the filament a bit further and also made it slightly stronger. I was able to make [a nice flexible print](http://www.thingiverse.com/make:46668) with this new setup. Stay tuned :-)

**EDIT - Version 1.2:**
Here is a new version. This is now designed specifically for a 5x10x4 (or 5x10x5) ball bearing and it includes an even tighter filament guide. I had some issues printing flexible polyester with the previous version, this one works better. I have also tested with PLA, Nylon and PET without problems so far.

Here is a video: youtube.com/watch?v=80q71dtGmuk

I have also uploaded the sources made with LibreCAD and OpenSCAD so you can customize it to your needs. Make sure you upload the remixes! :-)

**EDIT - Better fan duct:**
Here is a slightly more advanced fan duct which help distribute some airflow around the nozzle: thingiverse.com/thing:151555

**EDIT - Two can fit on a 80mm carriage!**
Here is a video of my dual extrusion system: youtube.com/watch?v=Ca-XfL2IUWs

Recent Comments

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So here we are, the modified X carriage for the Prusa i3v from makerfarm:
thingiverse.com/thing:518559

This is a carriage that was designed (with my help) by Simonious. I was able to print and build a dual extruder system with the rest of the parts here.
In addition to, or replaced with the hardware listed in the info:
I used two E3Dv6 hotends(1.75), direct drive.
I also purchased and used 3 eccentric spacers, as well as 1 regular spacer. I used 4 idlers instead of the standard 3 for the i3v.
I also purchased some springs from makerfarm(they only have one size) and i cut them with wire cutters for the hinge.
As far as screws I used:
6 x m3 6mm
8 x m3 40mm
4 x m5 35mm
2 x m4 25mm
2 x m3 20mm
4 x m3 16mm
and appropriate nuts

I found it was much easier to get both heads to be level with each other, by putting 3 eccentric spacers on the carriage, two on bottom, one on top. with the top corner closes to the X-0, being a normal spacer.
I then adjust the eccentric spacers as needed to make the carriage tilt one way or the other to get perfectly even.

In slic3r I set these to be 50mm x offset, and this works perfectly even.
If you have any questions about this please let me know.
How to calibrate your extruder: youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y
I don't understand your second question. You might check this as well: reprap.org/wiki/Problems
Hi Guys,

I hope that somebody can help me. I'm struggeling about a half year with my 3D printer. Bought it by RepRapUniverse. It was a Prusa i3 bowden extruder e3d. But sinds the system didn't want to work with other filament brands and leaked. I desigded to alternate the Prusa i3.
And now the prints are very badly. Just because it isn't calibrated anymore, i think... Can anyone help me what i should do, i want to work with this extruder (but then the dual extruder version) My slic3r is now at multiplier 2.5, it can print but sometimes with gabs.

- How do I calbrate the extruder ?
- I think there is also a problem with the carraige tight up to the belt, how do i mount it to the belt ?

I hope that anyone, can help. i've spend over 1500 euro's for a printer that doesn't work anymore... :(

Kind Regards
Jan

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Instructions

Just drop a comment if you need me to provide some instructions on how to assemble :-)
So here we are, the modified X carriage for the Prusa i3v from makerfarm:
thingiverse.com/thing:518559

This is a carriage that was designed (with my help) by Simonious. I was able to print and build a dual extruder system with the rest of the parts here.
In addition to, or replaced with the hardware listed in the info:
I used two E3Dv6 hotends(1.75), direct drive.
I also purchased and used 3 eccentric spacers, as well as 1 regular spacer. I used 4 idlers instead of the standard 3 for the i3v.
I also purchased some springs from makerfarm(they only have one size) and i cut them with wire cutters for the hinge.
As far as screws I used:
6 x m3 6mm
8 x m3 40mm
4 x m5 35mm
2 x m4 25mm
2 x m3 20mm
4 x m3 16mm
and appropriate nuts

I found it was much easier to get both heads to be level with each other, by putting 3 eccentric spacers on the carriage, two on bottom, one on top. with the top corner closes to the X-0, being a normal spacer.
I then adjust the eccentric spacers as needed to make the carriage tilt one way or the other to get perfectly even.

In slic3r I set these to be 50mm x offset, and this works perfectly even.
If you have any questions about this please let me know.
Hi Guys,

I hope that somebody can help me. I'm struggeling about a half year with my 3D printer. Bought it by RepRapUniverse. It was a Prusa i3 bowden extruder e3d. But sinds the system didn't want to work with other filament brands and leaked. I desigded to alternate the Prusa i3.
And now the prints are very badly. Just because it isn't calibrated anymore, i think... Can anyone help me what i should do, i want to work with this extruder (but then the dual extruder version) My slic3r is now at multiplier 2.5, it can print but sometimes with gabs.

- How do I calbrate the extruder ?
- I think there is also a problem with the carraige tight up to the belt, how do i mount it to the belt ?

I hope that anyone, can help. i've spend over 1500 euro's for a printer that doesn't work anymore... :(

Kind Regards
Jan
How to calibrate your extruder: youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y
I don't understand your second question. You might check this as well: reprap.org/wiki/Problems
Which E3D hot-end does this work for? You mention the 1.75mm version, and I see someone else mention that this is only made for E3Dv5, however it appears that only the E3Dv6 is 1.75mm....
Hello! It was designed for the E3Dv5 1.75mm but it seems that it is now out of production. The remix 446424 is an update which should to work for the E3Dv6 1.75mm. Cheers! Franck
Hi,

I've some problems, i've printed this all fine. But somethimes the filament keeps slipping. Then the hobbed bolt grinds into the filament.
What could I do to stop this ?
Hello! There could be many reasons for this. It could be the a problem with the hot-end getting "jammed" either because the temperature is too low and makes the filament hard to extrude or because there is some "burned filament" left in the hot-end (temperature too hot or low quality filament). Typically with the E3D hot end and decent filament there is not much issues. You can test it by extruding filament manually and checking that it is not too hard to push and that the extrusion is clean. The other possible cause is that the tension of the spring needs to be adjusted. Too much are too little tension can cause the gear to slip and grind into the filament. Especially it you are using high printing speeds and/or high retract speed. Also check that the hinge/spring action is smooth, it is also important so that the pressure on the filament is consistent. Good luck! Franck
Hi, I've been trying to find the cooling fan you use with this (5015S 12V 50x15mm), and so far I haven't had any luck, well not for the 12vdc version anyways, I would rather have the same type setup you have here, but trying to source something compatible is proving to be a real pain
Oct 12, 2014 - Modified Oct 12, 2014
ffleurey - in reply to charleybot
Hello! I got mine on ebay and they seem to still have them. Search ebay for 5015S and you should find some. They do not cost very much as well. Cheers! Franck
Thanks, I finally found them..
Is there anyway you could modify this carriage to fit on an i3v prusa(makerfarm) it has the v-cut aluminum extrusions, instead of the metal bars.
Just installed this and I'm loving it! One question though. If I mount the stepper motor to the carriage using the motors top holes I lose a LOT of print height, but if I use the bottom holes on the motor it wants to hang at an angle due to the lack of support. Do you have any advice to deal with this? I plan on doing the dual version and I'm betting the weight will make the tilt quite pronounced. I'm debating editing the carriage and adding an extension to the top part that adds two more holes for the top motor holes if I use the bottom holes on the motor in the existing holes in the carriage for added support. But then that will run into the bottom of the top holders for my smooth rods... Maybe I will just extend the center for the inner two screw holes on the dual motors. Hmm... Going to have to give this some thought.
That is a good point. This was not a problem for me because my printer is higher than what I need. Let us know how your carriage (497661) works. Cheers! Franck
Working great so far. I have not received my second stepper motor yet so we will see if the extra weight matters then. It's not an extreme tilt, especially with 4 mounting holes for each motor, but it's there.

Again, love your design. And thanks!
where is the 40 mm fan mount stl
Sep 23, 2014 - Modified Sep 27, 2014
What is the name connector that you use with the hotend resistor wires, or where did you buy it? Because I want to use it in my printer so I can remove the whole extruder easily, and I can't find that kind of connector in ebay (maybe I don't know the name, english is not my native language).
Thanks in advance !
Hello, I have used some JST connectors for the fans but I do not have a connector on the hotend wires. I had a plan to add a connectors and was planning to use MPX connectors. The MPX connector should have enough connections for the heating element, the thermistor and the FAN. By using several pins for the heating element it should support the high current without problems. Just an idea, I haven't tested it yet :-) Cheers!
Sep 29, 2014 - Modified Sep 29, 2014
Makarov_sl - in reply to ffleurey
Thank you, that really helped :)
Nice extruder design by the way, I'm printing it right now.

EDIT: I've looked up the JST connectors and the manufacturer says they're not suposed to be used with more than 2A, but some people use them up to 10A or more (not recomended at all), so I think they should work more than fine with the hotend wires that work with 2.5A
Visiblement la e3d V5 ne se fait plus pour du filament de 1.75. Est ce que la v6 peut se monter?
Je crois que quelqu'un a fait in "remix" pour la V6, Apparement il y avait besoin de petit ajustements.
Do you have any images of your ramps board? I have everything except the fans hooked up, can't seem to figure out where to hook them in, seems like most the pins are used. Thanks!
d8 or the 12 input terminal block into the ramos
Good question :-) if you want to be able to control the fans individually, there are not enough connections on the RAMPS board. I have used an expansion module. Search for "Ramps fan expansion module" and you will find it, it only costs a few dollars. Cheers!
They usually go connected to the power supply directly. The layer fan can be controled if you hook it as a second extruder (33 option in Marlin: Ramps with one bed, one extruder and one fan).
super extruder que j'aimerais réaliser. Cependant une chose me pose problème... Comment est fixé le moteur sur le x carriage?
Le moteur est fixé via 2 vis sur le x-carriage. En fait, il faut enlever 2 vis de l'arrière du moteur et le remplacer par des vis plus longues qui permetter de traverser le x carriage. Si on a pas de vis de la bonne longueur, le plus simple est d'utiliser 2 morceaux de tige filleté et 2 écrous. Bonne chance! Franck
Super merci je vais pouvoir l'utiliser pour ma nouvelle imprimante.
Aug 2, 2014 - Modified Aug 2, 2014
Some people are saying its to heavy, I want to make this with an dual extruder. It looks like a very good concept.

Is it strong enough with only 2 screws for each steppermotor ?

Should I print it in PLA or ABS ?
Hello, I have been using 2 on the large x-carriage without problems. I think that the two screws for the motor are enough because they are used to "press" the back of the motor to the flat surface of the x-carriage. ABS should work but I have been using PLA for this extruder so I recommend using PLA. Cheers! Franck
jawofglass I tried to use it with a 3mm filament with no luck, the motor keeps skipping steps because of the change in the torque, the mk8 can be use for both filaments but again the problem is the driver gets to hot and also the motor and after a few layers the filament stops coming out of the nozzle. My advice is to stick with the greg extruder.
This comment has been deleted.
Has anyone had success using 3mm filament? Can 3mm filament be used with the mk8? I was planning to modify the scad files but wanted to make sure others were not having problems due to tight tolerances as described in the info.
Hi, any chance you could mod it for the new E3D V6 Universal? e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/v6-Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal as you can see the PTFE tube and the "lock" that keeps the tube in place wont fit, im sure i can just drill a bigger hole but if you could release a new version aswell that would be awesome !
Hi all, can anyone help me mod the extruder to use 608 bearing please, still learning the software used for this design and have no clue yet.
Hello, it not completely straight forward to make a 608 bearing version because the whole thing is designed with very tight tolerances. You might have a look at this one: thingiverse.com/thing:183982 I have not tried it myself but it seems that quite some people are using it. Cheers!
Thanks ffleurey, I see understanble. It's a shame :-( I'm so impressed with the design the fan, size everything looked like everything I wanted. Thanks for the link
Hi,Is it possible for you to make a j-head version?I know you don't have j-heads but it would be great if you can make a version based on measurements! Since I know nothing on scad, I can't make any modification to fit it.I don't know if I will have luck so you could make this but here are the measurements, even if i think you already have them. Top of j-head diameter: 16mmsmaller parts that locks the j-head into frame: diameter of 12mmall plastic body height: 40mmI really love your extruder so I wish you can do this version on spare time!otherwise thanks anyway!
Hello! I could try but I wont have time before the end of the summer and there is a good chance that several attempts will be needed to get a good fit... cheers!
will this work without issue with v6 of the e3d?
Hello, I believe it should work but I have not tested so I cannot tell for sure. Cheers!
Do you have the scad file of the carriage?
I have a question about the motor. I just bought the same motor in appearance. What are the specs on it and have you had any problems with it skipping steps? The motor I bought is a nema 17 with holding torque of 2.6Kg.cm with 1.8 degree stepping.
Very nice! I'm thinking about modifying it to have dual extrusion on a makerfarm prusa i3v or at least try
Did you do this yet?
Why not make this to use more common 608 bearing?
Hello! I wanted to make it as compact as possible to fit 2 extruders next to each other so I went for the smallest bearing I had... It should be possible to make a version for 608 bearings but it is tricky to make it as compact (at least with the design of this extruder). Cheers!
How much has this restricted your build volume?
Hello, in terms of X and Y there has been no restriction at all, even with 2 heads (the Prusa i3 is quite big). On the Z axis the E3D is maybe a bit longer other hot ends but I have not measured how much. Cheers!
Awesome. I think this is going to end up being a summer project. Thanks!
very nice design . i made it but it's not fit whit j-head hot end . have any j-hea version ?
Hello! Sorry I do not have a J-Head version because I do not have a J-Head to test it. I thought that the E3D was the same but it might not be. Cheers!
any problems using a mk7 drive gear with this extruder?
It is probably possible to modify for an mk7 gear but as it is the mk7 gear won't fit. The design is made to guide the filament thightly around the mk8 gear so there is not much tolerance. Cheers!
I see, thanks.
hello,... i'm building my first printer and i've chosen this as my extruder,... i ordered this,.. ebay.ca/itm/251105814701?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 off of ebay,.. and it did not fit,... any suggestions?
i am literally "one baring away" from my first test print.
ok,.. i took the idler stl. into "lightwave modeler" and increased the
baring spindle width to 111%, i also added a little bit more room to the
filament guide and it seems to be working great with the baring that i
ordered.http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2511058...
i'm printing my
parts on a 2nd gen cubify printer,.. which i don't recomend due to
filament prices,.. but it seems to print to an accurate scale.
slick design by the way.
Hello, if the bearing you have got are really 5x10x4 they should fit (or at least it should be close), have you checked their dimensions?
Where is the problem, is it the inner hole of the bearing which is too small or the outer diameter that does not fit? If the bearing is the right size you should be able to sand the parts of the extuder to make it fit.
Cheers!
Looks great, before printing it I have a few questions:* How fast can you print with this?
* What is the distance between two noozles with dual extrusion?
ffleurey?
Great design (and several cool ideas). I never though of using a centrifugal fan before.one thing that i'm confused about is the bearing. Does the current design uses the 5x10x4 or the 5x10x5 bearing? There's two different "edits" that refer to each size.
Sorry about the confusion, I have now fixed the description, I am using 5x10x4 bearings. The 5x10x5 was the grooved one which did not turn out to work so good with flexible materials. Cheers!
Looks great but if I might ask what is the distance between your nozzles?
I just wanted to post a heads up that printing it as is did NOT work for me. The slot for the jhead or e3d was too tight and I couldn't even come close to fitting the hot end in. Maybe it's a tolerance issue on my printer but I took the model into sketchup and opened up the slot about .7mm and now it slips in snuggly without being a total pain. Other than that the only issues I've had from this is seemingly a jamming problem. It's definitely not this design though, I believe it's my hot end.
I was wondering about how the motor attaches to the X-carriage. You mentioned that:

"The carriage is attached to the back of the motor with 2 long M3 screws (which go into the motor and replace 2 of the motor screws)."

What length M3 screws did you use? I have some M3x40, and they still do not seem long enough! I don't think I have seen anything longer either...
Hello, the one I am using are probably longer than 40mm. It is not common but possible to find. One alternative I used in the beginning is to use a piece of M3 threaded rod. It is inexpensive and you can cut it to the size you need. just screw it in the motor and than put a nut behind the x carriage. Cheers, Franck
What holds the belt to the carriage? Will the 5x10x4 bearing work with the new design?
Hello! I typically use some zip-ties to secure the belt to the carriage. Yes 5x10x4 bearing will work, that is what I am actually using. Cheers! Franck
Hi, i love this design however when i print the extruder v1.2 all the holes sizes / nut traps come out to small, i can get round this by drilling however the inset for the j-head also prints to small and doesnt fit, have you had similar issues? i tried to edit the settings using openscad but it only exports the idler and doesnt show the extruder itself, and suggestions?
Hello, I have not had that problem but the callibration of you printer is probably different than mine, you could try to scale up the whole part if all the dimensions are too small. If only the "holes" are too small you could try calibrating your extrusion, it typically means that too much material is being extruded. If you want to export the different parts from the source, there are different modules in the openscad script, you have to uncomment the ones you want to export at the bottom of the file. Cheers! Franck
are you using the external thermocouple for your hotends?
no, I have only used the stock thermistor which came with my E3D hot-ends. Cheers!
Is there any possibility of you also publishing this design with standard J-Head mount? Or could you post the source files or export as .stp ?
Thanks
Hello, I think that the E3D hot-end uses has a "standard" J-Head mount. I haven't tried but normally a J-Head should fit. The source are available in OpenSCAD and DXF if you need to do some modifications. I am using LibreCAD and OpenSCAD which are both free and open-source tools. Cheers!
What changes did you have to make to your firmware settings to use direct drive? I assume the gear ration would affect some configuration.h setting somewhere. I run Merlin v1 and the Prusa i3 Greggs extruder.
Hello, I am using Repetier-firmware and I had to change the extruder "step per mm" in order to match the Mk8 gear. I did it by trial and error by extruding and measuring some filament (normal extruder calibration procedure). Cheers, Franck
How do I go about attaching the carriage to the frame or will it be obvious once I've printed it? None of the images you have show how it attaches so I'm a little concerned I'll get it printed out then be stuck.
Hello, it is not designed to work with 3mm filament. It might work but it will probably not be 100% reliable.

The carriage is attached to the back of the motor with 2 long M3 screws (which go into the motor and replace 2 of the motor screws). The carriage is mounted on the frame with two LM8UU linear bearings (standard Prusa i3).

I hope this clarifies. Cheers!

Franck
I found your 3mm remix. I am going to give that a try since I still have two spools of 3mm filament to get through before I buy some 1.75mm heads to swap in so I guess I will be a guinea pig!
Also, are the files included for that fan you have mounted on the front of the hotend? I am also curious as to what fan that is?
If you try the 3mm version, make sure to leave a comment on it to tell us if it works. I suspect that some other people have tried it but I haven't got any feedback.

The fan mount I am using is this one: thingiverse.com/thing:71073

I only have limited experience but I think that running a j-head without a fan can be fine with ABS but not with PLA. I had a J-head before but always ran it to print PLA and with a fan.

Cheers,

Franck
I broke the 3rd idler, the plastic shaft that holds the bearing is breaking off. I'm thinking about making one with a bolt instead of the plastic. Has anyone else had this happen?
Hi! Sorry about that, this has not happened with my PLA extruders but from the design I suspected that it was a weak point. If this would happend I had thought about using a bolt instead of the plastic shaft but I also had another idea which was to keep the plastic shaft and add a "cap" on top of the idler in order to support the shaft and keep the bearing in the right place. I have not yet implemented that solution because I did not have any ploblems so far... Are you parts printed in PLA or ABS? I suspect that PLA is a bit better for the idler. Cheers!
I'm using abs. At what maximum temperature can you print without melting the pla? I have installed the e3d hotend just because of the increased maximum temperature I can print at.

By the way, i drilled a small hole at the spot where the plastic broke off. I used a 2mm bolt and 2 F682ZZ bearings inside the normal bearing used in your design and this works good.
I never has any problem with melting the PLA, the cooling of the E3D hot-end is very good. I have replaced the stock fan by a 40mm fan which runs much quieter but I did not have any cooling issue before that.
The fan on the e3d should keep the PLA on the extruder from melting, even at extreme temperatures. I've comfortably held the top of mine while running the nozzle at 300C. You should be fine.
Do you have files for the hot end cooler on your machine
Looks fantastic, I mainly print PLA using a bowden, but that has issues... what speed can you get upto? I'm looking to get 100mm/s is that possible with this setup? Would really appreciate your advice. :-)
do you remove the almunium cover???do i have to remove it if i want to place dual extruder???
Hello, what aluminium cover are you referring to? What printer do you have? Cheers, Franck
I think he is talking about the aluminum cover on the back of the motor itself
can u help me...i made it but cannot make it work....i do not know how to calibrate dual extruder...please help me...
Hello, you have to be more specific, I am not an expert but it very much depends on what controller board and firmware you are using. You should find the information you need in the documentation of your firmware. I use Repetier firmware and the callibration basically consist of setting the X and Y offset between the extruders. Cheers!
This looks to be a very elegant solution to direct drive extrusion, but was curious about the mounting of the nem17 motor to the carriage. Since you are only using 2 screws to mount to the carriage and they are on the same axis (both top screws) do you have any issues with the motor wanting to flip up from the bottom edge or not? It seems that the weight of the assembly would put a lot of stress on those top 2 screws.
I agree with exploded view being helpful, and would also like to know if the motors have any motion to them only being held on with two of the four possible screws.
Hello Franck,

Where might I find an 80mm Carriage? I have searched high and low and cannot find anything.
Hello, the 80mm carriage is one of the options when generating the STL files for the Prusa i3 from the OpenSCAD sources. I have uploaded my STL file here so you can get it easily. Cheers!
can you post a link for the 80mm carriage? I cant find it in the list of your models on thingiverse.

thanks
Hi! I did not use any specific x-ends for the 80mm carriage, just the Prusa i3 "standard" x-ends. Cheers!
I downloaded the source files both in DXF and Scad and all I am finding when I open the files is the Idler Arm. Am I doing something wrong or are these files not the complete source?

Additionally, I posted on reprap forums, but will ask here as well.

5x10x5 and 5x11x5 are not common bearings, at least in the US.

I have found several 5x10x4, do you think I could raise the infill below the bearing at the inner race .5 or .6 mm to account for the smaller width of the bearing?

I tried raising it by a full millimeter, but it looks like the bearing would not be centered on the filament base on looking at the filament hole.
Hi!

The source should be complete but you might have to uncomment the part(s) you want to build at the bottom of the OpenSCAD file.

I will check you post on the forum but for the bearing, I measured mine and it turns out that it is only 4mm wide... Sorry about that :-) I'll will change the description. I think that my yo-yo bearing was 5mm wide so I got confused. The bottom line is that no changes should be needed for a 5x10x4 bearing.

Cheers!
Hey,

The extruder looks great! I've been looking for something like this for a while to take advantage of some of the mk8 Drive gears we have left from a workshop.

In what program did you model it? I'm looking to make a 3mm filament version.
Hello! I modelled it with a messy combination of FreeCAD and OpenSCAD (I am a beginner). I will try to post the source after I do some clean-up. In the mean time I uploaded a remix which should work for 3mm filament. All the parts are slightly different to be well aligned with the 3mm filament. I have not tested it because I do not have any 3mm filament or hot-end. Cheers!
For a beginner you are crazy talented! I will try it out and share it our hackerspace! I bet there are quite a few who would like to try this badboy out! Such a minimalistic and elegant design!

Cheers! Looking forward to the source!
Thanks! I have now uploaded a new version together withe the source. Cheers!
Nice work! But what is a operation should be used for setting up the distance of the filament?
Hello, I am not sure what you mean by setting up the distance of the filament.If you are thinking about calibration, I have used typical procedures and ended up with 168 steps per mm. Cheers!
Looks great, I think I will use this in you i3 build. Which NEMA 17 motor are you using and where did you get the bearing, are there any specs for it?
Hi! Thanks, I added some more details in the description and some links to the components I am using. Cheers!
Thank You for the links, that is perfect. One last question, what X-Carriage are you using?
I am using the small 30mm Prusa i3 X carriage. It has two 3mm holes which are 30mm apart which matches the screws on the back of the NEMA17 motor. I removed the 2 bottom screws at the back of the motor and used longer screw which go through the X carriage and in the motor.
you don't by any chance happen to have a link to the one you used?
I built the Prusa i3 parts from source repository on github, I have now uploaded the "x_carriage_30.stl" so you can have a look at it. It fits my Prusa i3 which uses LM8UU bearings. Cheers!
Thanks, I'm printing the parts from the Prusa i3 Vanilla branch and will be using Igus DryLin RJM-01-08 bearings
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