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3D printed Filament Extruder based on LyMan Design

by ceb, published

3D printed Filament Extruder based on LyMan Design by ceb Sep 17, 2013
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Summary

Filament extruder Using an extended Lyman design...
In the tradition of RepRap 3D printer project I have attempted to use printed parts for this extruder whenever possible. Also, I've attempted to make this filament extruder as portable as possible. Main feature improvements are -
1) Replacement of all wood parts.
2) Cooling fan and filament guide have been incorporated into single unit that is adjustable and folds in unit to reduce size.
3) Hopper has been improved to strengthen.
4) Overall unit has been designed to use 5/16 threaded rods for spacing and strength and to remove need for wood shop.
5) Engine mount is now printed plastic and can be adjusted for multiple engine types as long as they are 12V and spin around 2 RPM.
5) Power and electronics have been placed in Printed box that is incorporated into design. The power supply is integrated into box with model designed to support multiple unit's with limited need to adjust cradle.

Instructions

Overview of main parts (Sourced from LYMAN Filament Extruder II)
Full ductumentation on extruder is located on
ThingiVerse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34653

1)Engine: NatureMill – Electric 12V engine 2 RPM
2) Milled Parts -
140 mm threaded ½ inch pipe (Cut required)

        ½ inch cap with hole 3mm or 1.75mm drilled  
        AUGER DRILL BIT #39 5/8 DIA   

(Cut off end)
Metal parts
70mm threaded ½ inch pipe
Band Heater 1-1/2
male end to end coupler ½ to 1/2 outer diameter 1&1/2
male end to end 1-1/2 length ½ pipe.
1K thermistor type K
3 ½ inch pipe mounts
1 ball bearing (Thrust Bearing)
2 rods smooth 435 mm 5/16
2 rods threaded 435mm 5/16
AUGER DRILL BIT #39 5/8 DIA
(Cut off end)
6 IM8uu bearings
Electrical Parts
1 DEI 1” Exhaust Wrap
2 Light on off 20A/125V AC switches
1 10AMP 12Volt On/off rocker switch
voltage regulator 2A
old laptop power supply 12V 5 AMPS
SSR-25DA Solid State Relay (25AMP)
PID TEMP CONTROLLER
TA4

Credit Hopper is extended from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:132386
Fan Grill extended from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11906

Filament extruder Using an extended Lyman design

In the tradition of RepRap 3D printer project I have attempted to use printed parts for this extruder whenever possible. Also, I've attempted to make this filament extruder as portable as possible. Main feature improvements are -
1) Replacement of all wood parts.
2) Cooling fan and filament guide have been incorporated into single unit that is adjustable and folds in unit to reduce size.
3) Hopper has been improved to strengthen.
4) Overall unit has been designed to use 5/16 threaded rods for spacing and strength and to remove need for wood shop.
5) Engine mount is now printed plastic and can be adjusted for multiple engine types as long as they are 12V and spin around 2 RPM.
5) Power and electronics have been placed in Printed box that is incorporated into design. The power supply is integrated into box with model designed to support multiple unit's with limited need to adjust cradle.

If intrested in the scad code please let me know and I will include it

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This is Georgous. Man I wouldn't even know where to start; keep up the great work.

can i use this pid controller that i already order http://goo.gl/Ds9XLg and can you take pictures for your wiring or take the video your extruder extrude the filament, i want to build 1 myself

??????? ?? ?? ??????? ????? ????? ????????? ??? ??? ?????????

Could anyone translate the materials list? The errors make it hard to follow.

Please include the scan files also the circuits detail if possible. I liked your version most.

just wondering, how much did all of the materials and such cost for this build?

i think i got about 200$ or close into "mine". it is still in parts.

Could you tell me what material do you use for the thermal isolation between the threaded flanges?
Thanks

Why may I ask why do you have the cooling fan on rails?

freNRG - in reply to justy

i agree, if your trying to save money, the fan mount surely could be made of wood dowwel or 3d printed plastec or just plastic dowel, there is no load on the fan !!

would love to see some new pix of this setup, i am stuck with assembly.
specifically the middle area with the 4 bolts and the attachment to the drill bit.
would love like 5 different angles
thanks in advanced!

why not use a stepper? They have more torque at a cheaper price and with more precision. You can also print high-precision gears to slow them down...

cheaper ? more torque ? if u compare ac/dc motor and gears (gear motor) they have got to be cheaper than a stepper, then u have to have the drive electronics fdor it , but of course much more accurate, but u dont ereally need accuracy here ...

Hello,
We have just launched a Kickstarter that helps with winding 3D printing material! Check it out at the link below:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1162923316/spooler-mini-a-3d-printing-material-winding-soluti?ref=discoveryhttps://www.kickstarter.com/pr...

Hi there,
Could you correct the unicode formatting errors in the materials list? They make it hard to see what you mean.

where did you buy the motor?

If you are still looking, I have had a look on ebay and there are a lot of cheapish high torque motors. I found this and it seems to meet the specs ceb mentions in the instructions:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131174162569http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1311...
Hope that helps.

Question: Lyman's design has two switches, one for the heater, one for the motor. What is the 3rd switch for?
Thanks!

The collection spool motor

What are your recommendations for modifying this lyman assembly to extrude a narrow sheet (~1.5" wide, 1mm thick), instead of a filament.

One question, olease ask me.
Where do you find this motor? please send me reference thanks you

It looks like it might be a rotisserie motor, the type you could get from any home improvement store in the Bar-B-Que section. Real slow moving with a lot of torque!

Also, your instructions doesn't mention the STLs. Should I just print one of each?

Awesome design, in any case! :)

Could you please upload the SCAD source code? Doesn't matter whether it's "clean" or not...

For the question asked about speed of plastic PLA extrusion I'm currently extruding at 150mm or 6 inches per minute. Also temperature setting is really important, for PLA it should be 195 deg, Distance to the filament guide should be 55mm and keep in mind the weight of the finished filament is whats keeping to extruding filament consistent so you have to let it feed onto the floor below the extruder.

TTN - in reply to ceb

Do bubbles appear in the extruded filament?

I have added a new front Strut to replace the use of the Support strut twice. It will work but after using this for a while I had trouble with the force and the heat all concentrated on a single bolt and screw. So the new model “FsupportStrut” for front strut which adds two more screws and also uses a larger hole with room to put a little insulation tap around the screw if you want. I have it working now and there are no more issues.

Sorry about the instructions, I pushed out the models this last weekend but I won't have a chance to address any issues with the instructions or push the scad files until this weekend.

Your instructions have some unicode SNAFUs, makes it hard to follow.

Not really that much, maybe 6 dollars in PLA or ABS plastic, an old laptop power supply, 50 bucks for the temp regulator, solid state switch and other little electronics then 20 more for the metal parts and heating element. Lastly the engine which you can get for 20 bucks but I found some later on eBay for less than that. So grand total of 96 dollars and some time. Might be able to do it a little cheaper but I got a little lazy sourcing the parts.

Just curious, what's the rough cost of something like this?

Hi
I would like to ask how fast is yours extruder? How much cm per minute can extrude? And how is it quality of filament?
Im interrested into this extruder but I need some infos.

I will zip up scad files as you can guess its a lot. Also I did not go out of my way to make clean scad files so I ask that you cut me some slack.

Beautiful piece of work -- please include the SCAD code -- we will definetly be interested in building off of it. How well does it work?

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