Rubiks Void Cube

by Lochemage, published

Rubiks Void Cube by Lochemage Sep 22, 2013

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Update 10/03/2013:
Turns out I didn't actually need to print the inner track ring with support, I thought the overhang would have been too steep but it turned out it wasn't!

Update 09/26/2013:
I've cleaned up the existing models and added a few beveled edges that should make it easier to maneuver. However, it didn't improve it as much as I would have liked, there is an improvement but not much. I've uploaded all the updated pieces with a '_v2' postfix.

Update 09/25/2013:
I'm in the process of updating some new, improved, models that have been cleaned up and rounded to make them move much easier. Once I print them out and am satisfied with them, I will upload them here as a version 2.

This is a replica of the Rubiks Void cube. It moves exactly like a normal Rubiks cube, except it has no core. The lack of the core is actually a benefit for us, though, since that means there are no springs or other vitamins to deal with. The entire cube, minus coloring the sides, are plastic parts that can be printed!

All of the parts were modeled with printing in mind. The 'grain' of the layers factor into how the pieces move together to maximize its smoothness and practical strength. The final cube is a bit rougher to move, as to be expected since pieces aren't all perfectly smooth, but it still moves well. I suspect a dip in acetone or a proper sanding will make the cube move even smoother.

Once printed and assembled, all you need is to slap some colored stickers or paint on it and you have a fully functional void cube!

I hope you enjoy!


The models do not have any tolerance between the parts, so you will need to set up your slicer so the printed parts can actually fit within each-other snugly without binding.

I've managed to make most of the pieces in such a way that you can print them without support. The track ring is the most challenging, but with a well calibrated printer, dry filament, and printing with a raft, it can be done without support.

  • x6 track rings
  • x12 inner edges
  • x12 edge pieces
  • x8 corner pieces

Assembling this cube is rather complicated, so instead of trying to explain every little detail, I've included a sequence of pictures that show my build process. Also, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

  • The pieces will feel quite loose while you are assembling and will fall apart very easily until that piece has been fully connected to all the tracks that they connect to (e.g. corner pieces need 3, edge pieces need 2).
  • In most situations, twisting one track around will allow you to insert more pieces to that track as it turns.
  • When you get towards the end, where you actually have to use some force to snap the pieces together, be very careful about breaking the pieces. You shouldn't need very much force and in most cases, just changing where you put the pressure on the piece will make it snap into place easier and with less chance of damage.
  • Once assembled, I recommend you take a minute on each side and rotate it back and forth allowing any little obstructions and imperfections on that track to wear and smooth out.

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Can you put up a file that has multiples of that piece like what you did in 7th pic. Thanks

The zero tolerances make this a pain in the butt to even attempt to finish. Would not recommend to print.

If you're using the right tools, no problem. I have printed 2 sets to get it work. Be patient and see here:

Rubiks Void Cube
by faggahz
Sep 20, 2015 - Modified Sep 22, 2015

Does not work with PLA all pieces are way to tight. I found out after i posted this that the model is to exact size. Does anyone know how to tweak the scale like the OP mentions in makerware?

What material did you use for this

What is tolerance and how do I use it with slic3r?

Sorry, but this model doesn't have any tolerances, the slicer I used allowed me to input my own tolerance so I didn't put it inside the model.
I've had a number of people ask about the tolerance, so it might be beneficial to update this model with one. Unfortunately, I don't really have the time right now.

@Lochemage, lots of people preferring KISSlicer over Slic3r these days? Also, what software do you regularly use to tweak/enhance these awesome things! Andrew (http://3dhacker.com3dhacker.com)

Well, most of the community here is pro open source, and since KISSlicer isn't open, I think a lot of people choose not to use it just for that. Also, while you can use KISSlicer for free, you have to pay for the license if you want to use any of the more advanced options. My personal opinion, it works and it works well. I am a huge fan of open source, but just because something isn't, doesn't make it bad.

That being said, there are other free slicing software out there besides Slic3r. I've been recommended using CURA so I'll be looking into that soon. Skeinforge, or SFACT, is the first one I've ever heard about, but I'm not sure many use that though.

Right, KISSlicer would be more used if "more" Open. I've used Cura and the development is growing considerably. David Braam seems to be a smarty and the GUI is improved from years past. Can't wait for the future! Andrew (http://3dhacker.com3dhacker.com)

I sliced the ring using Slic3r and printed it, but it generated something that looked like a raft inside a print and forgot about one of the things sticking out on the top...

It sounds like you tried printing the original version. In the v2, I removed those posts sticking up on the top since they just broke too easily and because they did little in the actual mechanism. I've also cleaned up the model in the v2 so it should be less confusing to the slicer.

Oops. Are the original center rings compatible with the v2 parts?

Yeah, they should all work mixed together, I've just fixed up the models in the v2 so it shouldn't have so many errors trying to slice as before. I've also removed those little posts sticking up because they didn't really do much anyway, it's ok if they break.

i hate all rubix cubes, but this one...... now I C

I hear you, I saw the original by Rubiks at Target and it was an instant sell, even though their brand cubes are quite on the expensive side.

whoops, somehow I was trying to edit the previous post and I ended up making it label it as "Guest" instead.... anyway, I meant to correct my mistake, I thought you said that you liked rubiks cubes lol.

hi, great idea! You could try generate support with meshmixer to reduce the printing time!

Very cool, I'll have to look into it!

How did you get your arches on the inside track to print properly?

I guess it depends on how well your slicer generates support. One of the included pictures shows the track ring exactly how it looked after the print, with support and all.

For me personally, I used KISSlicer to generate the support.

"The models do not have any tolerance between the parts, so you will need to set up your slicer so the printed parts can actually fit within each-other snugly without binding."

What exactly does this mean?

This means that the parts of each piece that 'fit' with another piece, have no gap or spacing. If you were to print the models perfectly sized the way they are, the pieces would fit together but be very tight, obviously you don't want this since you want the pieces to slide with each other easier. For this reason, you will have to make sure you setup your gcode slicer so it actually prints the pieces with the tolerance you want.

I'm also confused about this. You say you use KISSslicer as a slicer? How do you achieve this with it? In the slicer I usually use (Cura, UM user here), I can only play on the scale of parts (so printing a piece 99% will make it easier to insert into another 100%one for example), but nothing as fancy as setting up tolerances in an assembly of many different parts/files. Is it what you did?

As long as you have things calibrated right, i think you should be fine. I would recommend you download the perimeter-wt.stl from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573http://www.thingiverse.com/thi.... If you print that, and the little block fits inside the big one without being too tight to move, then the print here should work without any modification.

The Essential Calibration Set

Thanks, I'll try that hopefully this week! Rubik's cube fan here :)