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Rubiks Void Cube

by Lochemage, published

Rubiks Void Cube by Lochemage Sep 22, 2013

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Description

Update 10/03/2013:
Turns out I didn't actually need to print the inner track ring with support, I thought the overhang would have been too steep but it turned out it wasn't!

Update 09/26/2013:
I've cleaned up the existing models and added a few beveled edges that should make it easier to maneuver. However, it didn't improve it as much as I would have liked, there is an improvement but not much. I've uploaded all the updated pieces with a '_v2' postfix.

Update 09/25/2013:
I'm in the process of updating some new, improved, models that have been cleaned up and rounded to make them move much easier. Once I print them out and am satisfied with them, I will upload them here as a version 2.

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This is a replica of the Rubiks Void cube. It moves exactly like a normal Rubiks cube, except it has no core. The lack of the core is actually a benefit for us, though, since that means there are no springs or other vitamins to deal with. The entire cube, minus coloring the sides, are plastic parts that can be printed!

All of the parts were modeled with printing in mind. The 'grain' of the layers factor into how the pieces move together to maximize its smoothness and practical strength. The final cube is a bit rougher to move, as to be expected since pieces aren't all perfectly smooth, but it still moves well. I suspect a dip in acetone or a proper sanding will make the cube move even smoother.

Once printed and assembled, all you need is to slap some colored stickers or paint on it and you have a fully functional void cube!

I hope you enjoy!

Recent Comments

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Could you made a version that makes this look like the original rubiks void cube?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V...

Yeah, they should all work mixed together, I've just fixed up the models in the v2 so it shouldn't have so many errors trying to slice as before. I've also removed those little posts sticking up because they didn't really do much anyway, it's ok if they break.

Oops. Are the original center rings compatible with the v2 parts?

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Instructions

The models do not have any tolerance between the parts, so you will need to set up your slicer so the printed parts can actually fit within each-other snugly without binding.

I've managed to make most of the pieces in such a way that you can print them without support. The track ring is the most challenging, but with a well calibrated printer, dry filament, and printing with a raft, it can be done without support.
- x6 track rings
- x12 inner edges
- x12 edge pieces
- x8 corner pieces

Assembling this cube is rather complicated, so instead of trying to explain every little detail, I've included a sequence of pictures that show my build process. Also, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

- The pieces will feel quite loose while you are assembling and will fall apart very easily until that piece has been fully connected to all the tracks that they connect to (e.g. corner pieces need 3, edge pieces need 2).
- In most situations, twisting one track around will allow you to insert more pieces to that track as it turns.
- When you get towards the end, where you actually have to use some force to snap the pieces together, be very careful about breaking the pieces. You shouldn't need very much force and in most cases, just changing where you put the pressure on the piece will make it snap into place easier and with less chance of damage.
- Once assembled, I recommend you take a minute on each side and rotate it back and forth allowing any little obstructions and imperfections on that track to wear and smooth out.

Comments

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Zackalegomaniac on Jul 3, 2014 said:

Could you made a version that makes this look like the original rubiks void cube?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V...

andrewupandabout on Oct 1, 2013 said:

@Lochemage, lots of people preferring KISSlicer over Slic3r these days? Also, what software do you regularly use to tweak/enhance these awesome things! Andrew (3dhacker.com)

Lochemage on Oct 1, 2013 said:

Well, most of the community here is pro open source, and since KISSlicer isn't open, I think a lot of people choose not to use it just for that. Also, while you can use KISSlicer for free, you have to pay for the license if you want to use any of the more advanced options. My personal opinion, it works and it works well. I am a huge fan of open source, but just because something isn't, doesn't make it bad.

That being said, there are other free slicing software out there besides Slic3r. I've been recommended using CURA so I'll be looking into that soon. Skeinforge, or SFACT, is the first one I've ever heard about, but I'm not sure many use that though.

kamnxt on Sep 30, 2013 said:

I sliced the ring using Slic3r and printed it, but it generated something that looked like a raft inside a print and forgot about one of the things sticking out on the top...

Lochemage on Sep 30, 2013 said:

It sounds like you tried printing the original version. In the v2, I removed those posts sticking up on the top since they just broke too easily and because they did little in the actual mechanism. I've also cleaned up the model in the v2 so it should be less confusing to the slicer.

tramalot on Sep 29, 2013 said:

i hate all rubix cubes, but this one...... now I C

Lochemage on Sep 30, 2013 said:

I hear you, I saw the original by Rubiks at Target and it was an instant sell, even though their brand cubes are quite on the expensive side.

Vise on Sep 28, 2013 said:

hi, great idea! You could try generate support with meshmixer to reduce the printing time!

Lochemage on Sep 28, 2013 said:

Very cool, I'll have to look into it!

jdzender on Sep 28, 2013 said:

How did you get your arches on the inside track to print properly?

Lochemage on Sep 28, 2013 said:

I guess it depends on how well your slicer generates support. One of the included pictures shows the track ring exactly how it looked after the print, with support and all.

For me personally, I used KISSlicer to generate the support.

loansindi on Sep 27, 2013 said:

"The models do not have any tolerance between the parts, so you will need to set up your slicer so the printed parts can actually fit within each-other snugly without binding."

What exactly does this mean?

Lochemage on Sep 27, 2013 said:

This means that the parts of each piece that 'fit' with another piece, have no gap or spacing. If you were to print the models perfectly sized the way they are, the pieces would fit together but be very tight, obviously you don't want this since you want the pieces to slide with each other easier. For this reason, you will have to make sure you setup your gcode slicer so it actually prints the pieces with the tolerance you want.

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