P6*6 120 Pinhole Camera
by schlem, published
Sorry - until I do some editing, this reads like a Dr. Bronner's Soap label!
New P6*6W - Wide Angle version**
First rolls of film! Kodak Ektar 100, Fuji Acros 100 and Fuji Velvia 50 transparency film:
**New Butter Shutter for remote cable release**
Look for addendum to user's guide, but more info here:
**Viewfinders! You asked for 'em, I designed 'em - more info here: thingiverse.com/thing:363857**
An alternative set of parts has been designed to capture a wider angle of view. The original P6*6 already shoots a fairly wide angle frame at 62 deg horizontally; the P6*6W shoots an angle of 77.5 deg horizontally. For comparison, a 50mm lens on a 35mm film camera has a 40 deg horizontal angle of view.
The wider angle means a faster camera too: f/135 vs f/167. Details in Instructions.
-------------- P6*6 Specs --------------
50mm focal length
designed for a 0.30mm pinhole
f-stop of f/167
62 degree horiz. field of view.
-------------- P6*6W Specs --------------
35mm focal length
designed for a 0.26mm pinhole
f-stop of f/135
77.4 deg horiz. field of view.
**Photos from the P6*6 are posted here:
Processing by Moon Photo, Seattle moonphotolab.com/
Images on Flickr may differ from raw scans in contrast and brightness.
The P6*6 traveled to [Amsterdam for Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day 2014](https://www.flickr.com/photos/theschlem/sets/72157644374818515)
On that rainy day, I spoke with one of the organizers of our AMS meetup, Alex Yate of [http://Pinholista.com](http://pinholista.com/), about 3D printing and pinhole photography on the [Pinhole Podcast](http://www.pdexposures.com/the-pinhole-podcast-intermission-wppd-in-amsterdam/)
Visit the [3D Printed Cameras group on Flickr](https://www.flickr.com/groups/3dpcams/)
The mission is to share and promote open source cameras and related parts, created with CAD applications and 3D printing. Please join and post content!
__If you download this from somewhere besides Thingiverse, and printed it, please post pics on this thingiverse.com page! Please - I want to recognize and support you too__
I understand skepticism; I hope that if you have been delaying your pinhole photographic adventures, the onslaught of my dubiously composed and poorly-chosen subject matter will convince you that this camera works and that you can print one and shoot photos!
As to how to build and use the P6*6 - All is revealed in the new User's Guide. Anyone can put this camera together and create amazing photographs. Assembly is detailed and simplified in a new document: "P66_assy_revised.pdf"
__No 3D printer yet?__
Kits and assembled cameras available on [Tindie](https://www.tindie.com/stores/schlem/?)
Hate the flat shutter plate on front of the "lens"? Dress it up a bit with the trim plate and pinhole cap!
Worried that the friction-fit of the cap on the body could pop open and ruin your film? (IFAIK, this has never happened) A Sliding Body Clip secures the cap securely to the body, preventing a dreaded accidental exposure of your film.
New, photographic filter adapter! Use neutral density filters to slow exposure times, or colored filters for effects. Not just for the P6*6, good for any camera without a threaded lens barrel:
And a tiny P6*6 keychain!
I have shot dozens of rolls of film through this camera now. I find this camera a delight to shoot. I am very happy with the frame indexing. Like any camera, excessive movement during exposures will blur your image. This makes very short exposures (1-2 seconds) impractical for best results unless you can absolutely immobilize the camera. A neutral density filter (which increases exposure duration by whole stops) or a remote shutter release mechanism will address this limitation and is a future improvement I plan to make. Alternately, for "quick" exposures, you can cover the pinhole with your finger, open the shutter and (literally) manually time your exposure with your finger, then close the shutter - another old-time pinhole trick.
Incorporating aubenc's Knurled Surface Library V2, and modeled around the handy 120 Film Spool by Jakebot, the P6*6 builds on the PINHE4D and PINH5AD pinhole cameras designs.
12-6-13 After some experimentation with different 120 films, I find that some spools are slightly larger than others. This affects the clearance at the winder spool and rotating baffle (small slotted disk); the cap will not snap completely shut. I haven't suffered any damage to negatives from this, but, just to be sure, I have reworked the baffle to a thinner 2mm thickness. You can download and print either the whole winder assembly (knob, baffle, drive) or just the baffle. I suggest having a spare knob and drive handy if you try the Film Clip accessory: thingiverse.com/thing:197924
__New Wider angle version P6*6W f/135__
__*Exposure duration table updated including:*__
- Fuji Neopan Acros 100 B&W neg film
- Ilford Delta 100 B&W neg film
- Kodak Ektar 100 Color neg film
- Fuji Velvia 100 Color slide film
- Fuji Velvia 50 Color slide film
- Ilford FP4 B&W neg film
- Kodak 400TX B&W neg film
Recent Commentsview all
Hey, Pinhole Photographers (and the curious)!
These smart folks like to talk about the tools and techniques of pinhole photography.
Give the Pinhole Podcast a listen:
Thanks for the reply! I look forward to seeing your photos!
In (pinhole) photography, as in many endeavors, some things are "need to know", others are "nice to know", and then there is the "nuts to know". For myself, I just picked the most convenient Pinhole formula, which is part of the PinholeDesigner windows app. There are others, Mr Pinhole uses a slightly different formula, but they don't generate significantly different results. Same with reciprocity failure. There are rules of thumb and there are multi-variable exponential equations that give you about the same exposure +/- an f-stop. Luckily the latitude of most modern films allow adjustment of exposures that don't quite hit the mark. With careful metering and preparation, I am fairly happy with the results I get.
I haven't used Pinhole Assistant, not being an Apple user, but I have friends that swear by it. I am told it has good RF support for a wide variety of films.
Look for V/Fs soon.
hi, thnx a lot for taking the time writing all of this down. very interesting !!
I found calculations with a factor (c) of 1.9 (after Rayleigh they claim) down to 1.6. (pinhole d = c * sqrt(550nm*focal length)
or considering the distance of the object d = sqrt(2.56*550nm/((1/distance to object) + (1/focal length))
hence when the object is far away (>10m) then you can neglect (1/distance to object) and the formula fimlifies to the first one.
in this case the factor c would be 1.6
I recently bought a book which supposed to be up to date, but i havnt got this yet (http://www.amazon.de/gp/produc...
and its in german...
When following your f-stop calculations above i repeated the same for a pinhole 0.25mm and came to the same conclusion. so probabyl it wont make much of a difference (except for exposure time) if you use a 0.3mm or a 0.25mm pinhole on the 50mm extension.
i think all those pinhole calculations are more like a thumb of rule and one needs to try out which suits best. And yes i know
that i cant expect the same results as with a lensed cam ;) if i need snapshots ill take my NEX-3 ;)
Long, long time ago... i used to do analog b/w photography including developing my own films and prints etc. but then i switched to digital photography and sold most of my stuff.
When i stumbled over your pinhole camera i got inspired going back to the roots and beyond ;)
Ill keep you posted how things are working out. Camera parts are printed just mission the pinhole and some films i ordered.
do you know this App ?: https://www.facebook.com/pinho...
seems to be quite good, but dont have anything to compare it to yet (still have to find my old light meter ;) )
probably ill use the iphone as some sort of viewfinder attached to the back of the P66, so i can always take a photo as
a reference for the used exposure parameters... still have to cook up a holder for it ...
secondly (probably most of the ppl know) for glueing ABS, Aceton works very well when applied in a thin layer on both parts.
Also for nicely pinished surfaces: just apply very little aceton with a soft brush. it gives a nice smooth and shiny surface, espacially for the parts you sandpapered and for the parts of the extension which are touching the film. just dont use to much
otherwise the ABS will melt away ;)
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**New P6*6W - wide angle version**
Assembly is essentially the same as for the original P6*6, using the following alternate parts:
which consists of the following four parts:
**See "P66_Users_Guide_x,doc" for instructions on printing, assembly, and photography" Also P66_assy_revised.pdf contains better diagrams and assembly instructions. ** These documents will be merged in the future.
__NOTE__ When unloading the camera, and as the full spool is removed, the film might be loose on the spool and not fully protected from light by the backing paper.
I have designed a film clip which slides in with the empty take-up spool and prevents the film from unspooling (and subsequent light leaks) when unloading the P6*6, It is an easy fix, requiring no modifications to the camera. There is a small lip inside the cavity that will prevent the clip from rotating.
Everything is designed to fit on the smallest of 3D printer beds, the largest dimension being just more than 5 inches (128mm). If you print on something smaller, the large parts could be rotated 45 degrees. If this is a limitation for you, let me know, and I will supply a suitably modified file. Also - only tested with BLACK ABS - if you want/need to print this in another color/material, a couple coats of a flat black paint on all interior surfaces will guarantee a light-proof camera.
You can see additional pics of p6*6 prototyping at:
----- Printed Bits ------
50mm or 35mm extension
Camera cap and winder assembly
Shutter plate or New Shutter plate (with pinhole disc)
(all parts are also available non-plated)
----- Non-Printed Bits ------
4 x 3mm-16mm long socket bolts, washers, and nuts
1/4 - 20 flanged nut (for tripod mount)
Pinhole 0.30mm -50mm focal length
Pinhole 0.26mm -35mm focal length
I highly recommended that you find some translucent red plastic film and some self-adhesive black velvet or felt. See User's Guide for more infomation.
Recently included is an Exposure Duration document for several readily-available films with reciprocity failure. If you can expand on this, please share.
I hope that the various Pinhead Pinhole cameras arouse an interest in this marvelous photography genre. Also refer to PINHE4D or PINH5AD for links to technical information and tutorials.
I remain at your disposal should you have questions.
--- SOME HELPFUL LINKS ---
Here's a couple of videos that explain the basics of pinhole photogaphy (worth a watch!):
[Part 1 ](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LutIudRhm10&list=PL36B9AF146FD58457&index=2)
[Part 2 ](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXtMdCBwLLs&list=PL36B9AF146FD58457)
An encyclopedic article with cross references:
A self-described comprehensive pinhole tutorial:
The basics from Kodak - a quick and dirty primer.
Make your own pinhole:
Pinhole Designer - an excellent pinhole design and exposure calulator. The reciprocity failure function is gold. Sadly, Windows only, but worth it.
Mr. Pinhole - More calculators and more links.
Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day:
A paper pinhole camera, 2D printed in a Czechoslovakian magazine, in the 1970's: pinhole.cz/en/pinholecameras/dirkon_01.html
Books, books, books; Knowledge is power:
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