Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A

by big_red_frog, published

Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A by big_red_frog Oct 6, 2013
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NOT rated for motor vehicle use, general safety equipment or Type 26/42/52 directed energy plasma cannons.

To better support detailed instructions and development, now hosting blog like content at hackaday projects which is in alpha, at


This model is expected to deprecate the previous versions.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:138405 and

and is a derivative from this 3dmax original.


This is size A - Adult

I now have a size C - small Child at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:181491

And a size B - medium at

Proven vac formed visor as per


Got featured at Autodesk University and won an award for design in Fusion 360. mulitple shots in this video - Yeah me!


All components have images of successful print and build time.

All modelling in Autodesk Fusion 360, its free for non commercial use, I highly recommend it.

Now using Netfabb basic to post process STL for origin, orientation and repair, so thingiview will also now work.

STL should be in correct orientation on dropping direct into Makerware! Just move to center of plate, and in some cases rotate to fit the bed nicely.

See instructions.

Please comment, its been exhausting, so would appreciate the banter.

All upgrades, such as led modified back light and perforated visor will be posted as separate "things"


Chin Front with M4 bolt modifications


Perforated Visor for Halo Helmet


Added a full version of the visor as it will fit in a Replicator 2.

Halo 4 Helmet Size A Big Pieces

Combined components where separation was unnecessary if you have a replicator 2 size build volume.


Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A with tiewraps, working through the pieces and placing mounting holes for tiewraps to aid with wire harness control.


Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A Peak with Batteries


A youtube link from the comments that is too good to miss...


A render from keyshot 4


An assembly video kindly created by http://www.thingiverse.com/rmasching


Deprecated derivatives.

Backlight with LED mount - Now been added directly to this thing, replacing the non LED version.




All designed in Autodesk Fusion 360

Note ChinFront_r1_0.stl has been updated to address artifact present in Makerware. Not apparent why, but single slice layer was appearing as just support near top of print. Piece flipped in netfabb and resaved, artifact goes away!

All STL sliced with Makerware to x3g at medium profile 0.2mm layers, default settings, 2 shells, 10% infill, with raft and support.

Latest Makerware suggests scaling some pieces to fit. DO NOT. All pieces will fit a Replicator 2 print area with simple rotation about the vertical axis and centering. The "down" face should be preserved for best results.

Total build time for main body is ~60 hours on my Makerbot Replicator 2 in PLA.

Including pins ( no visor or magnets ) is 680 grams, so you can budget one Kilo gram per helmet with raft, support and reprints. Don't forget some natural for your visor / inserts.

Its 16 main pieces as per attached files, and 4 inserts / visor.

Using the other "things" for combined pieces it comes down to 12 main pieces.

You can get it down to 7 main + insert full plates by printing multiple pieces on one replicator 2 bed.

All uploaded files have been preprocessed in netfabb basic for integrity and orientation.

Generally Magnets used are 3/8 x 1/10 99K32.03 - 19 off


Placed in 3/8 steel cups 99K32.52 - 15 off


Jowl insert retaining magnets are 1/4" x 1/10" 99K31.01 from same page again. - 4 off


Tension pins throughout model are 1/8" x 3/4" as per 240-025 - 57 off ( just buy a box of 100 )


Print, glue, pin for alignment during glueing. Magnet for snap attach of peak, chin and visor if desired. Add foam to fit for proper alignment.

Use 5mm LED's in all inserts. - 6 off ( presently )

Assembly order is roughly shown at


No grunts were spared in the making of this product.


This is a 15% reduction of the 6'6 model. So scaled to 85%. There are many other changes so not all parts can be reversed back into the 6'6 model., however, should you wish to try for parts like the vacform mold, chin piece with detail, or the hex visor, you would scale the A size model pieces by 117.6471%

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Very impressed in your details and effort... thank you!

could you upload the helmet as one solid piece? i want to see if it can print it all at once.

could you upload the helmet as one solid piece? i want to see if it can print it all at once.

Hey guys, so I printed all the pieces for this helmet using abs and now i want to do a cold vapor finish with it using acetone. If anyone has made this helmet and done a similar finish, I was wondering if you could tell me if it's better to do the cold vapor finish after the helmet is fully assembled or to do the finish piece by piece. My only concern with doing it piece by piece is that the finishing process could warp the inserts for the tension pins and magnets. Any info or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I'm making another helmet now where I'm sanding bit by bit, and then I'll glue it together and then do the acetone party. You can, however, just mask of the parts you don't want "acetoned" with masking tape or paint or anything really.

I was planning on painting some intricate designs with black paint; something along the lines of hieroglyphics or similar... Would you recommend do this before or after the acetone finish?

If you paint before then the painted parts won't be affected much by the acetone so if you got lines you'll keep them. I'd do the smoothing before any paint myself.

How are you sanding this? I tried sanding a piece with 100, 300, and 600 grit sandpaper and then did an acetone finish. But i didn't like the way it looked/felt compared to only doing an acetone finish.

Yeah the acetone only gives a nice porcelain style, but it won't matter much once you paint on top of it. I'm trying acetone first, then sanding with 240->400, then I'll do a spray filler and then sand that with 400 and then spraypaint/airbrush.

This comment has been deleted.

How big of a printer did you use?

If one is starting a thingiverse account how would you suggest to get followers and likes if you designs are good? You can look at my designs but they are good.

Has anybody designed a stand for this?

Looks great, but order of assembly isn't correct. If you are willing to retool it, I can send you some notes on the proper order.

That would be great. I am in the process of printing the pieces right now. I looked at the instructions but the animation was just for fun. I would be happy to adjust it to show the proper sequence of assembly.

I own a thermoforming shop, I am kinda retired but one of my sons wants me to print him this helmet. So I will most likely end up vacuum forming him a visor, once the tool is made it is easy and cheap to make more. I would be making a cheap tool, it will make perfect parts just not many of them. If anyone here would be interested in purchasing some, private message me. It most likely wont happen until spring or summer but the price will be right.

I would also be interested in purchasing a visor as well.

I might be interested in buying a helmet tell me the info I need to give you for one?

Assuming you know i have a vac form here.


Halo 4 helmet Visor Vac Form
Jan 16, 2016 - Modified Jan 16, 2016
waynekinne - in reply to big_red_frog

Ya I saw that after, sweet. I will smooth them out so I get a nice clear lens. Is the block shape part of the design or should a curved lens be better? Sorry, my son is the Halo expert and he is on the road.


Missed the question here. The blockiness of model and visor is due to original game source files. Plenty of reference material on the web on actual perfect model.


Hi I was wondering where the file for the hexagon visor is from the pictures? Am I stupid and just cant see it in the files or is it not there?

As per in instructions

Perforated Visor for Halo Helmet


Perforated Visor for Halo Helmet

what can we use for the see threw glass ?

Try looking at a local motorcycle/atv shop for a replacement visor for a helmet that is nearly the right size and place it in your helmet. Trace the shape and cut it to fit. Then use an epoxy to bond it to the inside

As per instructions

Proven vac formed visor as per


Halo 4 helmet Visor Vac Form

What size print bed do you need to be able to print this?

how many magnets are used(each size)?
How many steel cups?

Thank you!

See instructions

how could we get a better visor, without vacuum forming?

Nov 7, 2015 - Modified Nov 7, 2015

What do you mean by 6'6 model? ( 6'6" is how tall I am but I wear a Medium/Large moto helmet so should be fine unless 6'6 in the description is something else? )

Also know anyone that has made the armor pieces?

This thing looks awesome so i'm printing it!

Start with the size A.

Great thanks. have a few prints done, printing it in Orange ESUN PETG.. its coming out great.

Did you use screws to assemble this? if so, what size and type?

Give these a try if you want :)

Pin for Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A

1/8 inch aluminum rod also works the same. Any ideas for the visor? I want to make a plexiglass visor.

Dec 3, 2015 - Modified Dec 3, 2015
SirKristof - in reply to Legorenegade

The problem I had with that is not living in America! It's hard to get anything in Imperial measurements in the UK (1/8" = 3.175mm) :(

I had an idea for the visor I haven't started yet but there is a file for a perforated visor, what if you just stuck a flexible sheet over it? I'm sure there must be some type of mirrored film or sheet you can get somewhere..

Please read description and instructions

what are the earth magnets used for? are they just for the removable visor?

Oct 12, 2015 - Modified Oct 16, 2015

do you know of any good assembly videos? I wanted to know how hard it was going to be before i started to print it. And were could I find instructions for assembling this?

Having had to improvise assembly myself, my advice to you is to assemble the "center" strip consisting of the roof, back, and lower back pieces first, then assemble the left and right side halves separately, and attach them to the center strip. The peak and chin then follow last. Keep in mind he's made the chin removable and able to attach magnetically.

ALSO: advice to anyone having trouble finding tension pins: 10 gauge wire cut into small lengths fits right into the pinholes for this piece, of course they don't tighten but they hold it together well enough for me to superglue the pieces together.

Hello I was just wondering what slicing software you used to slice the model I want to use cura but im a bit unsure about the support always hard to break away cleanly.

My bad just read the instructions again sorry.

Good day
I liked to do bigger
I can pass files to another format?

I used BuMat and it didn't turn out very well.


Assuming you had support on?

It's and interesting print with a lot of unsupported hex extra, but I don't think I have had a single failure in multiple prints...

Nothing special about natural pla. If anything it's a little more brittle than the opaques.

What type of transparent filament did you use for your visor? I want to make sure I got the right type.

The hexagon style visor is just translucent "natural"

Obviously the transparent visor is vacformed as per descriptions.

Also, which files are the larger than about 109mm x 113mm x 116mm? (The print area of an M3D Micro)
I need to know how much I need to scale it down or if I need my friend to print it.

Please, please, please, if you have a question like this, download the files and look!

With tools like netfabb basic freely available, it's very easy, and you might learn something.

Otherwise it's asking me to do the leg work, which doesn't make any sense...

sorry I just don't want to download any extra files, my computer is almost empty of memory

which size should a 13 year old boy wear?
this is half because you asked to comment and half because I want to print this in the right size

This is really impossible to Guess. from experience children's head sizes are not predictable from age.

I give some estimates on helmet size in the various descriptions and comments.

If the child's head is not noticeably smaller than an adult, print size A ( they can always grow into it ), otherwise print the B.

Once you have succeeded at printing an A then printing another one at B if necassary will not feel such a challange.

May 9, 2015 - Modified May 9, 2015

Also, how much filament does it take?

Please read the description / instructions.

May 9, 2015 - Modified May 9, 2015

Can you see through the full visor? (non hexagonal)

Not with any filament I have. You would need to move to some other print process to get the level of transparancy required.

Ok. So i will stick with the hexagonal visor.

Whats a good size for an 11 year old?

No real answer, depends on the 11 year old. It will likely be a B or A. I would start with the B.

ok thanKs.

Hi, do you think it would be an issue to turn a piece on its side to print in order to save filament from not using as many supports? I have a program that fills in all of the area underneath the piece when I choose supports- not one that puts a small pillar under the areas that need it the most.

I can't comment on the behavior of your software ( I would actually recommend finding one that does not do what you describe ).

For so many reasons, I would not expect reorienting these parts to a lateral scenario to end well, but you can only try...


Would you be able to upload a one piece model so it can be printed as one? Minus the inserts?

I get asked this occasionally, so I will explain why I am reticent to do so.

The model is developed to be multi-part with all the mounting points in place, it was part of the process from getting from one big solid lump to the final design I don't have a mounting clean version.

So any single piece model would be a reassembly of the sub parts, and I would have to manually go through that process = work.

Anyone can take the STL's and do the same thing with a tool such as netfabb. This will be a good learning process for them.

Many people believe they have a compelling reason to need the one piece model, but few actually have the equipment to do something meaningful with it. Which would imply wasted work on my side. If they just want the overall solid, it is here.


If someone should have a compelling need, and the capability to do something with it, and yet not the capacity to do this work themselves, then they should PM me to explain why it is a good use of my own time. Not to say this is not possible, but I would take a little convincing...

Halo Helmet

how did you wire up the LED's?

Please read hackaday project link in description.

hi, sorry for the incovenience, but do you can bring to us an mark IV helmet from noblesix of halo reach ? plz, i realy do not know how to catch one .

I even tried to repair the files in netfabb still wont work. Not sure how i got them to work one time. I have them sliced with supports but no raft do you think they will print fine? If so ill give it a go

SO are you having problems with the STL files they wont load in my software (flashprint) that came with my printer and every time i try to load them into simply 3D it crashes. I got them to load one time thats it. Please HELP!!

All files have been cleaned through Netfabb and you can also tell from the number of "mades" people are generally successful.

Try using netfabb to convert them to stl ascii rather than binary and see if that helps.

Otherwise I consider these files solid...

hey it was not the files i got this brand new macbook and i have had nothing but problems with it and my 3d printing program. Sorry about that

How much did you pay for 100 pins? I cant seem to find a price on those....

I bought a 36 pack on amazon for about 10 dollars

This comment has been deleted.

Also, will it work if i print in ABS plastic?

Does anyone know the total square footage of material required? I want to print it but my teacher is a little skeptical.

Please read the instructions. also the final measured weight is in the instructions.

My instructor at gctc let me print anything I wanted kn account of my good attendence amd my dedication and we found this on here and we couldnt be more happy with how it came out we printed some parts black and some parts green to add in some flare

Glad you enjoyed. Please post the "make" ( if you haven't already...)

Well i am going to try it

Dec 23, 2014 - Modified Dec 23, 2014

Can anybody tell me the dimensions of the peaces
My slicer scale the parts so i dont know the right dimensions

Netfabb basic is your friend.

do any of the files need to printed more than once to make the helmet?

One per of each file.

temple right does not line up with rear top right...

Having printed several I can assure you it should.

What material are you printing in?

Have you printed other pieces to confirm which is in dimension.

This will likely be a variable in your execution...

please describe in what way they don't align?

I'll post some pics after turkey : )

Nov 27, 2014 - Modified Nov 30, 2014

Ok, if it's pla it is unlikely to be shrinkage.

I'm using Slic3r, Repetier, and Printrbot that I upgraded to X 200mm x Y 100mm x Z 300mm build platform. It was 100x100x100

I just started using Autodesk Fusion 360 this week, how do I load the helmet file to it?

The STL files provided can only be loaded in as reference.

STL files are the output from the design process towards the printing process.

I have not "released" the underlying design files from fusion 360.

I am almost finished printing my Halo helmet. Thanks to big_red_frog for the work you've done on this.

I take a 3XL motorcycle helmet and this Helmet should just fit my head. I wish I had scaled it up 5%.

It's given me the motivation I need to take on larger projects with my printer.


Can you upload the fully assembled STL?

I am going to slice it in 123D Make laser cut them, and glue it together.

thanks G

Hello! Love this helmet im actually trying to make it for myself and a few friends for a local stores midnight release of the masterchief edition release next month. I just bought a Makerbot Z18, and I guess my question is how do I know if these parts are 1:1 scale? my initial look at this I just thought it was all one piece and id just scale it according to my head measurement but seeing it in several pieces how do I know if all the pieces are scaled to the proper size to fit together and on my head?

Oct 25, 2014 - Modified Nov 30, 2014
big_red_frog - in reply to Nokanees

Please read all the instructions, description, comments and the hackaday blog entries, look at all photos, most of this is covered.

Print a size A as is. If it is way too big Print a size B which is 10% smaller.

Do not scale pieces or the pins / magnets will not fit.

I want to use this for airsoft, and was wondering if i should cover it with some sort of enamel to strengthen it. also, i will need a good visor replacement since i need it to be fully enclosed. suggestions anyone?

Having a hard time finding a suitable visor. Would prefer not to vac form due to time. Anyone know if this one would work or know of a suitable reflective visor. Preferably gold in color. http://www.amazon.com/Aftermarket-Helmet-Shield-RF1000-XR1000/dp/B00FB5W7ZA/ref=pd_sim_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1E5MEDWGQZ6D6BX8DMPM

For the size A, is that the same as a large helmet? 59cm - 60cm circumference. I'm trying to decide if the design should be scaled up, but don't know how to take the cross section dimensions that you gave and convert that to a hat/helmet size.

Size A,B and C are just my references from Adult to Child.

I take a fairly large MC helmet ( don't know which off hand ) and Size A fits me with some room to spare, bearing in mind you can remove the chin, in order to get the helmet on if you have to.

Plan to print at a 1:1 scale this weekend as of now. If you get some time, do you mind posting your MC helmet size that you currently wear? If you're busy, I understand, but it sure would go a long way in reassuring me that the time spent printing won't lead to a non-fitting helmet.

My Shoei is marked as 59 cm, and it is a very snug fit, I bought it to not move/rise at silly speeds with no fairing.

The A should fit you if you are 59-60 cm

I have started printing some parts of this without any support and they have turned out pretty nicely, just a little sanding required. My only issue was that the back fan insert didn't fit into the back fan spot. (possibly due to not using support)

The piece didn't fit because I was using the wrong steps per mm for the z axis of my printer. I reprinted and it fits fine.

Is there any way I can get the file for this I cant open the STL file on my computer to make a little modification and that would be awesome if possible.

Sep 25, 2014 - Modified Sep 25, 2014
big_red_frog - in reply to outfishing385

I would consider implementing a change if it is minor. Not willing to share core cad files.

By the way, none of your "make" images are resolving.

Hi! I love your work, i am some what new to 3d printing and i have but one question for you if that's ok. I have a Da Vinci 1.0 and my build volume is 20x20x20cm, is this build volume sufficient to print this helmet at all?

Thank you!

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE take each piece and try it in your slicer program, which I am assuming has the limits of your print volume as a guide, or at least the capability to measure the limits of the piece.

Meanwhile, of the base model in this design, the largest pieces are the

Jowl's which are 130mm tall, and 165mm wide.
One piece visor which is 130mm tall, 165mm wide, 178mm deep. ( noting that two part visor print is also in the download )

If these fit you can print the full design.

Note that parts such as some of those in the "big pieces" and "peak with batteries" supplementary designs, will not fit as they are over 200mm. These are not necessary for the main piece, but have dig through the supplementary designs as they are generally improvements.

There is a split form of peak with batteries, so you can still get those features.

Thank you very much for your response, i will give this a try and post a "make" picture and comment when it is finished :)!

Have a nice day.

hey can i do these parts at the correct scale for the makerbot replicator mini?

Unfortunately I don't have a mini to confirm, ( donated printers will be happily received ) though I suspect you would be challanged. A few people have successfully cut pieces arbitarily in netfabb and then reassembled with some success. The overheads of purposely splitting parts and pinning them , as per the rest of the design is unfortunately not something I can support.

This comment has been deleted.

How much filament did it take to print?

How to set up the supports like in the pictures? My supports are automatically all over the Piece. So everything that floats will be supported. even the holes for the pins....

What slicing program are you using? I have only used makerware. All default.

I can't speak to other slicers, but support is minimised to not impact the outside faces except a little on the jowl pieces. Which have quite a bit of support on the inside face as well but clean up nicely.

Ensure you do not change the orientation from that in the pictures and stl files.

Post pictures somewhere...

Thanks for your answer mate! I changed orientation... that was my fault. After i read the instructions a second time i saw it :)
Now everything is working smooth! Thanks alot for your help and your Work! ;)

Also look at the hackaday projects pages referenced. There is some hole clean up, but it is quite practical.

Has anyone had a problem where the print chops up into steps? My print of some of the right side pieces have come out chopped up where the printer will move the center of the model in the middle of printing. I'm using one of the replicator 2s

The only soft issue I can think is if you print too close to the edge of the bed, but all pieces on a rep2 should fit nicely.

You may have other problems on the rep2.

Have you printed other pieces that get as high?

Are you printing from sdcard, don't print over USB.

Rep2 running well should be able to print these fine.

I just called the company a cable wore out on my replicator thanks anyway! And yeah I learned fast not to use the usb.

Thanks for the follow up , I should of recognised the symptom and commented on possible cable issues. A relatively common failure mode, though I haven't hit it yet.

How much is a 3D printer that can print something like this?

I'm using a makerbot rep2 which is around 2200 here in canada

Would it been possible to get a file with all of the Main Pieces assembled together minus the visor the the led inserts? I am going to try and see if i can print it in one piece.

Hmmm, your print volume would have to large and you would have to use dissolvable supports. Do you have that capability?

So, I know it might be a bit impractical to print, but what do you think the best way to piece this out for printing in a Replicator Mini would be? I know I could probably print the B or C sizes (I haven't checked to see if all the pieces fit the build volume of the Mini, yet), but I'd like to be able to make something happen with the A size. Any input would be appreciated!

This guy sliced some parts for a smaller bed, I am assuming in meshlab or netfabb basic, just straight splits, and then glued them together. Results look good, so it can be done, you will not have the benefit of the alignment pins on these new splits, but it can be done... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:376062http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

A remix of "halo 4 helmet full size A" for up mini printer.

whered you get the led lights?

They are just 5mm LED's that are available from any hobby level store.
For a little more detail.

Did you treat any of the parts in acetone to smooth them out?

All my prints are on a rep 2 so in PLA for which acetone doesn't work.
I have been getting very smooth pieces, as long as they are printed in the advised orientation which attempts to avoid the layer resolution impacts.

I'm considering printing this model. Any idea how much material it requires? Like how much did it weigh (just the printed parts)?

As per instructions tab, it is less than a kilo with quite a bit of slack for reprints. So a single kilo reel should be budgeted.

I can't seem to get the insert to fit into the jowl, it looks like the backside where the wires come out is a completely different shape. I can only get the insert about 3/4 of the way in before the back of the insert hits the back of the jowl. Any ideas?

Should fit like a glove. Make sure faces are cleaned where there is support.
Send me an image at [email protected], or add one to an "I made this" where you are having problems.
Watch out for left vs right handedness etc. I will try and add a few images of the insertion and mating faces tonight.

I have added images of the jowl inserts in place inside and out to the end of the picture stream on this model. Although they are the B size in this case, the fit is the same for the full size, you should be able to see that all faces mate as intended. When inserting, ensure the faces are aligned, it is possible to attempt to insert at an angle, and have it bind...

Hey I'm finishing up my printing and assembly right now, what are peoples recommendations for paint? and also for where to mount the 9 volt and what resistors to use for each led in a parallel circuit?

For 9V battery mount print this variant of the peak.


For simple circuit description, see


Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A Peak with Batteries

This is going to sound stupid, but is there any chance that you could upload models for the helmet to be printed in three parts, (i.e. the chin, visor, and main body(obviously the visor wouldn't need editing))?

Do you plan on making MKV and/or MKVI versions? A slightly tangent thought, it may be possible to have an algorithm to section the model much like you have here given a hollow non-split version. Maybe converted from .pep files or direct rips from the game.

Hello, I'm French does not poarle anglais.J 'uses google translate.J hope you could help me. I print the helmet halo child size helemet B.Pouvez you give me the list of magnets that I necessary, as screws or insert for assembly.


I will PM so that discussion on the size B doesn't become confusing, on the size A page...

Are there any parts on the parts list that require the use of support material when printing?

If you look on the pictures of each printed part you can see there is use of support.

However this is minimized by the part orientations.

In most case this is all on internal faces so breaking it off isn't an issue.

The worst case are the jowl pieces but it breaks out quite well and cleans up nicely.

I would not attempt to print without support.

I have a rep 2 so support material is from the same nozzle as the main body. I don't believe it is a problem.

So just default raft and support in makerware, and have at it...

I am going to print this whole thing at 50% infill at 0.08mm resolution just to see how nice it can look :P

Hi Barnacules,

Pieces should already by oriented to minimize the impact of layer thickness on external surfaces finish.

Moving to 0.08 at 50% is going to knock your overall print time to the 150 hour mark!

If you have the print reliability then go for it, but would advise picking a part, printing in 0.2 with 10% ( which is my current default profile ) and also at your proposed 0.08 at 50% and comparing, I would actually be quite interested.

The part that is most impacted by horizontal face layering is likely "chin front", it also isn't too big so you can get comparative results relatively quickly.

Having said all that, go for it!

Thank you for the reply, the consumption of material at 50% infill was crazy so I backed off to 20% infill because I like the weigh the parts feel indestructible. I am still printing at 0.08 at 80mm/sec and the prints are coming out amazing with minimal cleanup required. I can't wait to get all the parts printed so I can begin assembly and will post my full print and build on http://barnnerd.comhttp://barnnerd.com when I'm done. Thanks again for the response this is an amazing project and the largest multiple print item I've printed to date!

If they fit in your print space (noting you are not on a rep2) then use the peak with batteries single piece model and other large pieces referenced in the description.

Also the chin with m4 bolts mod is worth the trouble.

How much filament did you use? I have a robo 3d with pla.

As per instrutions..."It is less than a Kilo gram reel with plenty of slack for reprints, so you can budget one Kilo gram per helmet ( not including translucent inserts )"

Can you post a schematic of the LED circuit

Each pair of LEDs is its own circuit in parallel back to the 9 Volt battery with a 560 ohm current limiting resistor in series with the two leds. However it will be specific to the LEDs you use, see https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/219https://www.sparkfun.com/tutor... for a reference.

3 sets of these, one in each jowl, one in the rear insert.

ok cool thanks

You may have put this in the description or something already(i just cant find it) but i was wondering if you could tell me the size of the fan to put in the back. Thank you

I have not as yet placed a fan, it just looks like a god place for a small fan if deemed needed. As it stands the back fan insert is a clear piece with 2 x 5mm led mounts.

Is it possible to print the parts on a reprap printer or is there a specific printer type that we should use to print this? Is it possible to order a helmet from you?

For smaller beds compared to the rep2 I kept the split - visor, temple, back / roof and peak parts.

Otherwise print the large parts as linked in the description.

I cannot talk to the reprap specifically, I assume you can check bed size fit of the STL with your favorite slicer...

I'm about to make it and really want to thank you from the heart, you'll make me and my son really happy!!

Also be aware there is a small child version called size C which is a 15% reduction. I am working on size b which is a mid point, but very busy right now!

Check the description and instructions.

Should all be clarified there.

Standard .2 profile.

Hex visor is at


And I am now vac forming clear ones, work in progress.

Perforated Visor for Halo Helmet

You're right it's all in the instructions, my bad. Good look with vacuumforming, what material are you using? Polycarbonate?

Halo 4 helmet Visor Vac Form

Should make the rest of the Suit ^_^ !

Grats on the feature in fusions mailing list dude :D

Thanks, the fusion360 team have been great in supporting me while I learned the tools...

I had someone from /r/picrequests on reddit make a mockup for me... BEHOLD! The golden Chief!


I'm going to try to do a nice gold/black when I've finished printing it (it's not my printer so it'll be a while), but I was wondering, has anyone attempted laying some sort of one way reflective film to the honeycomb visor yet? I'd be curious to see the results of that,

I have been painting vac form molds for the visor generated on the printer in the same material as the helmet to ensure mould release on a smooth surface. As the opportunity was there I used primer/filler, metallic paints and clear coat from standard automatic spray cans.

It looks far better than I expected.

Now I HAVE to print and paint a full helmet.

If you do a gold, it should look very good.

Prints have been going pretty slow for me since i'm printing at my local makerspace and can only spit out 2 pieces per session on the afinias. I just got a spool of PLA so i'll be getting 3 pieces per session now and i'll be able to cut down on parts using the makerbots.

You know. It isn't too often one sees something of such high quality put out there for everyone's benefit. Good job. You're the best large_crimson_amphibian I know of.

I'm guessing that's frog for "Thank you".

so what is everyone using to hold this master(chief)piece together?? ="thingiverse-d7a57d0c4b7110dfcb07f4e3a480abe1:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/thingiverse-d7a57d0c4b7110dfcb07f4e3a480abe1/big_red_frog

i use JB weld Plasticweld 2 part epoxy and it worked amazing! about 7 dollars depending where u get it, i got it at my local home depot. make sure it is the clear glue not clear yellow.

Bearing in mind I am printing in PLA, I am using any old super glue for the chin pieces.

For the rest of the helmet, although I intend to glue one up and try painting one, presently, the tension pins hold it together well enough for effect. It is the intent to fully glue, just its a one way operation. I have enough instances now I can experiment, just time ( read lazy )
Super glue will hold the magnets and cups in, "mostly", as they are very shiny, they can break the bond, I need to rough up a couple on the back side and see if it helps.

I also have some "proper" PLA glue sitting in the drawer, but again have not had time to experiment.


Anyone else using slic3r with prniting this helmet?

I'm about to...

can anyone estimate the weight of the completed helmet or estimate the ammount of filament needed? I'm new to 3D printing and I should be getting my QU-BD 2-UP printer in time for christmas.
Also If anyone who is a pro at printers and thinks they could help me set up/calibrate or teach me some stuff and are in Central Indiana I'd love to meet up and I can buy us takeout or whatever.

From the instructions..."It is less than a Kilo gram reel with plenty of slack for reprints, so you can budget one Kilo gram per helmet ( not including translucent inserts )"

Thanks! I was just looking on the Info tab. I guess I thought more technical stuff would be on the "instructions" tab that I wouldn't understand. haha. I'm new here. thanks for being polite and not yelling at me. :)

All good, no hard and fast rules around here.

So I picked up LEDs from Fry's Electronics, got a gold reflective motorcycle visor, and BAM!


Halo 4 Helmet Full Size A

The perforated Visor works great!!!

Do you mean the hexagon pattern visor? I can't find the file, how has it been made?

By the way, this took only 40 hours to print on Makerware's low resolution, in case anyone out there is intimidated by the 60 hour print time listed in the instructions.

OH MY GOSH IT IS SO COOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IT IS DONE!!!!!! I will upload pics soon.

I procrastinated for 1 week because I was too lazy to sound down the edges that had the raft stuck to it. Also, I was too lazy to figure out which parts to order, wait for them to arrive, and I also didn't feel like spending money. So I used blender to extrapolate the dimensions of the cylindrical holes, and I printed the pieces instead. I will upload the connectors as a separate thing and link it as a remix in case someone wishes to 3D print the connectors rather than buying them or using glue.

This is absolutely amazing! Unfortunately, I couldn't see a thing with the helmet on, so I'm going to print your visor with holes now :-P

Pics to follow!

Starting printing it, steamed through in alphabetical order up to left jowl. So far, so good - but jowl is going to need some support material, so I am proceeding with a bit more caution on this part! :+)

Strongly advise printing all parts with support from makerware slicer in original orientation of stl ( rotating only around vertical axis so it doesnt hang off the bed ) then all parts have manageable support, and yes jowl is the worst but actually not bad.

Will put in support going forward, instead of playing fast and loose with the laws of printing physics! I'm using Slic3r.

Yikes. Even with the support material, it's just a little too big to fit at full size on my printer bed. Even perfectly diagonal across the bed. I'm going to try and split the part up, but in the meantime moving on to the next part.

I have a lot of real life stuff going on right now, but if I get a chance, ( best case this weekend ) and you get the other pieces printed, I may have an a go at adding another split in the base model. Can you send me a image with what you expect the suitable cut line would be? PM me. Thanks.

Got all parts printed except for the two jowls and the top. I'm going to try and print them at the local maker space on their printer and see what happens. :+)

Very much enjoying this project. Thank you for all the work it took/takes!

Good Stuff, without knowing in which dimension you are constrained, I couldn't attempt a reslice for you.

Make sure you use the same plastic on the parts printed elsewhere, as I would be worried about different shrinkage...

So far so good. Just started the Jowl. It's just about as big as I can print (allegedly 15cm by 15 cm but more like 13cm by 13cm).

I can add support in Slic3r going forward. I've been playing fast and loose with the laws of printing physics :)

So I've been printing the parts, so far they are printing really well and look AWESOME!!!! (I may have to sand it to smooth it out and clear out debris from the holes)

Question: what did you do to connect all the pieces together? Did you insert magnets everywhere? I know you've spent a lot of time on this..but would it be possible for you to tell me how many of each magnet to buy (part #)? lol. This way I can order it so it arrives by the time the parts are finished printing :)

Oh and which LEDs did you buy? (I'm trying to copy exactly what you did :-P)

Added number off components to the instructions ( yes its "off", not "of", used to put BOM's together )

Pins are just for alignment, I am using super glue for faces I want to join permanently. Though I have some nasty special glue for PLA I haven't got round to experimenting with yet. Careful not to get the super glue on a finished surface, it turns moldy white.

Awesome!! Thank you! I finished printing the last parts on Saturday, but it was my Dad's birthday so I haven't had time to put them together. All the parts are ready, so hopefully you will see my "I made one" soon!

On the Led front, I am just using any old 5mm water clear blue led, 2 in series in each part at around 20mA.

I am likely to build in a 9V battery mount soon, along with some wire routing points, unfortunately that means things will keep evolving, so you print at risk, but its modular, so you can upgrade, and if you have glued, well then, your second helmet will be better again :-)

Part numbers should be in the instructions, though I need to add number of.

Sanding should be minimal, clean joint surfaces, and some of the rear facing angles on the jowl. And of course incidental hairs etc.

Get a 1/4 inch hex chuck drill, put it in a screwdriver handle and hand ream the holes where support material is in place, I should post a photo on this.

I suppose I should do an assembly video, but it's been very busy in RL right now.

Could the magnets just essentially be glued in?

Magnet cups are glued in, as they have features that will grip the glue better.

The cups also give the magnet a much stronger field.

The cups also allow you to flip the magnets if you get them reversed, so a little bonus feature.

Magnets themselves are very smooth. and likely to release from the glue, though they could be abraded to help.

The visor takes the magnets directly, I have had the glue fail, but not so much its impractical.

THIS IS ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cannot wait to print this out!!!!

Though not as awesome as the Obliterator X800!

I look forward to seeing your "I made it"...

haha yeah right! I was exporting the files to my SD card last night. Hopefully I can get the print started today!

Note I just added a one piece full visor stl, and the other extensions as the referenced things in the description.

awesome, thank you!

It would be absolutely awesome if we could get a translucent OLED curved display instead of the visor and make a full on heads up display...oh man!

Let me finish phase 1..., there are plans...

Mount a micro camera in the peak and have the inside be CCTV. From there I guess you could just add use raspberry pi (probably mounted somewhere else in the armor) to make an interactive HUD for it.

I'm back this looks great. How much would you charge for one?

superb! What filament types did you use, especially for the transparent parts ?

Bearing in mind I am in Canada.

The transparent in this case is Makerbot Translucent Blue PLA. It is NOT clear enough for a functional visor, but I don't think any printed material would be. ( at this time ).

The Pink ( its light Red! ) is actually Purple PLA from Ord Solutions.

I tried a clear pla filament from http://diamondage.co.nzdiamondage.co.nz though the following might apply to other manufacturers as well. When I print only 2 horizontal layers can get very close to transparent if the speed is slow and extruder feed is calibrated correctly. However if I try same 2 layers vertically result is opaque. So if you want a flat visor it might be possible. Probably easier to make a shaped mould with printer then find some old plastic packaging that is heat shapeable at lower temperature and then stretch it over the printed mould. Not elegant solution but should work.

I have one idea for something functional and printed in the short term, meanwhile I am building a vac form bed, and will print a form for a good clean Lexan truly functional solution.

I've gone the diy vac form route for a Zer0 helmet (3d printed). The hot box uses a heat gun as the heat source, cheap thermometer probe (inside hits a steady 145c) and only use PET-G 1.5mm sheets. All good so far. Don't think temps are high enough for other types of sheet material. Next is to tint with iDye nylon dye!

Do you have pics of your setup anywhere?
Just looking for clues along the way.

Will not be ready for this stage for a while.

How well can the Lexan be tinted with the spray/paint on tint?

Going to assume that will be down to the quality of the person doing the paint. Anything should be possible.

absolutely incredible, how long did this take you to make as far as the design work ? I'm impressed

About 2 and a half months from the beginning of the first version.

Bear in mind though, I have a very busy full time job, and a lot of that was learning my way around Fusion 360.

My 11 year old would wear this 24/7!

That turned out AWESOME!! I'm glad the half roll got you through ;)

Looks awesome, what size head is this for?
22 inch 23 inch ?

That's what I keep looking for. Has anyone measured the circumference of a printed helmet yet?

Right now its a one size fits all.

Chin and peak remove, with magnet latches if you have a particularly large head.

Add foam to fit.

It looks superb.. do the LED's really line up on the wall?

Only the body armor to go now ;-)

Hmm, thought I replied to this, but it seems lost.

The second led set point of focus is to the right behind the helmet.

The angles are slightly divergent, but overlap as the pools spread, for accidental alignment, it is about perfect!

I don't think I have the stamina to do a full armor set!

Came out nice. What color is that? Lightish red? :-)

ya know Donut they got a name for that, it's called pink.

It's not pink, it's lightish red!

Purple? Or a strong Pink, this one is definitely the wife's...