Simple Piston
by mechamithrandir, published
Description
Recent Comments
view all
Thanks for all the comments. i'll try posting some of the fixes as soon as possible
Better yet, dissolve some scrap ABS in some acetone until the acetone no longer dissolves any more ABS in a reasonable time. Then you can apply the solution with less dissolving of your desired part than with pure acetone. With white ABS, it gives the part a nice shiny ivory/buttermilk look. It also seems to help prints stick the build surface when brushed onto the build surface, forming a thin film of ABS.
Yes, that works. But I would not dip but rather use it on the surface only.
Makes
Tags
License
Give a Shout Out
Instructions
Comments
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Did you try adding a way of mounting a rubber-sealing ring?
You can get them in evey hardware store.
I've heard several others say you can dip the abs object in acetone and it'll melt slightly and seal the gaps.
Better yet, dissolve some scrap ABS in some acetone until the acetone no longer dissolves any more ABS in a reasonable time. Then you can apply the solution with less dissolving of your desired part than with pure acetone. With white ABS, it gives the part a nice shiny ivory/buttermilk look. It also seems to help prints stick the build surface when brushed onto the build surface, forming a thin film of ABS.
Yes, that works. But I would not dip but rather use it on the surface only.
You cold infuse the print with a substance that can tolerate the temps you wish to test.
If you can't get the print to be water tight enough, then just warm some parifin wax on the stove, place the print in the liquid parifin for 15 minutes. Then place the printed part in the freezer for an hour. Then place it in the oven at 250F for about 10 mintues (The parafin will re iquify y on the outside, but inside the print the ABS will insulate it, wipe the outside off and you have the densest, most water tight part you could ask for. It works, I have done it twice.
BTW this process also works well with Mendel parts. Print at a very low infill, then infuse parts with parafin to "harden" them up. A .2 infill, when parafin soaked, is as hard as a 1 infill. Allowed me to print out my personal Mendel set VERY quickly.
I tend to print watertight stuff with a very small layer height -
&
lt;0.4mm to make it seal. Loses resolution but...
Otherwise spray it with varnish to seal the holes :)
Vik :v)
Thanks for all the comments. i'll try posting some of the fixes as soon as possible