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E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3

by Tech2C, published

E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3 by Tech2C Jun 18, 2016
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Summary

This is 'Version 2' of the popular E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount for Prusa i3.
https://youtu.be/BtmDortWBnY

If you have a Prusa i3 and are upgrading your hotend to an E3Dv6 (Lite and clone compatible) with Bowden, then you'll need this hotend mount for your X-carriage.

As this design clamps the hotend to the mount, there's no chance of a wobbly hotend.

Cooling has been incorporated into this version, rather than a bolt-on after thought.

This updated design removes the clutter around the hotend so you can view the printing unobstructed.

A 50mm Radial/Blower fan is utilized to provide ample cooling for your prints resulting in sharp and detailed finishes.

You can purchase a fan from Banggood

3 Parts - the Mount, Clamp and Duct.
To clamp the E3D hotend, you'll need 2 x M4 screws with 20mm length and 2 x M4 nuts.
For the Duct, you'll need 2 x M3 screws with 6mm to 10mm length
For the Blower fan, you'll need 1 x M3 screw with 25mm length and 1 x M3 nut.

Note: If your X-axis end-stop is on the right hand side, you'll lose approximately 10mm on the X-axis because the blower fan is quite long.

Inductive sensor option - check the remixes section :)
Duct v1.1 added to support E3D v6 block with silicone sock.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

RepRap

Printer:

Prusa i3 Rework

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

30%


Notes:

2 Perimeters/Shells, 2 Top/Bottom layers

Custom Section

X-CARRIAGE.stl only from Prusa i3 rework kit

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616/#files

Custom Section

Compact Bowden Extruder, 1.75mm Filament for MK7 Drive Gear

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767951/#files

Custom Section

E3D v6 Fan Duct

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547325/#files

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What X carriage are you using?

How far apart are these mounting holes?

I have a Rework I3 and printed this in PLA because I am having a terrible time dialing in my ABS printing. Any comments/concerns using PLA vs. ABS for this design? I assume I will eventually have to make them ABS.

Apr 14, 2017 - Modified Apr 15, 2017

I 3d printed this and a direct drive, then my extruder said goodbye afterwords, then the part did not fit to the bearings that slide back and forth on the x-axis. Well, now i'm screwed

Hey,
i have always problems with polyholes ... so all inner dimensions are to small . ( Normal Prusa I3 with MK2 , Repetier Host with Cura Engine)
Does it work anyway or do i need to redesign the parts ? can you provide the cad drawing ?

Thanks

Hello! I really like your design... but I don't see how to attach the whole thing to my printer. Can you help me? is there another thing I should print first?
Photo of what I have right now:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyz5p4ao33s0zb9/IMG_20170327_230457941.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fluhay2u53ree3i/IMG_20170326_164919290.jpg?dl=0
It's a Tronxy P802e 3d printer
thank you!

What size E3D hotend does this take?
My clone has 16mm, 12mm, 16mm round fitting at the top.
It about 63mm top to nozzle.
Thanks in advance

how do i connect this to the original bearings on my anet a8

Is there a version which uses the original Bearing Block my X-axis rod is really tight it is really hard to remove.

Mar 19, 2017 - Modified Mar 19, 2017
bexwhitt - in reply to rizkypratama

this ? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1664017

It looks like it would work with the Anet a8 and the like

Bowden_mount_v2_HICTOP

What 3d modeling program do you use?

Mar 8, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017

Will it work with the E3D v5? Cause of the height of the heatsink? I couldnt find a base for E3D v5 for Prusa i3

Hi All,
Great work on this! Would anyone mind sharing their (Marlin) offset settings for an Anet A8? I am planning on using this with a proximity sensor and wondered if anyone had any luck setting it up?

Thanks,
Eric

Hi Eric,
I use the following offset settings on my Anet A8 with this particular x-carriage mount:
// Travel limits after homing

define X_MAX_POS 220

define X_MIN_POS -17

define Y_MAX_POS 220

define Y_MIN_POS -22.5

define Z_MAX_POS 240

define Z_MIN_POS 0

Mar 18, 2017 - Modified Mar 18, 2017
Jack_Harper - in reply to DrMaeLinh

Wow thanks a lot !
I am working with Skynet 3D (a Marlin mod) on my Anet a8 (Prusa i3 Clone) and use Octoprint to command the printer.
Did you know where i have to enter this values ?
is it in the configuration.h ? Marlin.h ? Other.h files ? in Octoprint ?

Thanks for your help.

EDIT : Founded !

But how do you manage to have your print in the center of the bed ? (the nozzle position isn't the same as the original direct mount)

I feel confusion, so I have the maker select and my end stop is on the left. It is mounted on the top bar though. So I just need to print the one without the end stop. Is that correct?

Greetings, finaly i got a working Fan Duct without holes, so i can print a better one now ^^

@ Tech2C can you add a version of this by chance, that also features the induction Probe holder on the right, like the Hypercube Version?

Does anyone know of a circular duct that fits this? the blower is super powerful, but when I print flowers and bridges, I think they'd come out better if it had an i3 style duct. and thanks for the duct for the silicone boot model!

Hi, i just made one. Fell free to give it a try.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2177911

Semi circular fan duct for Tech2C E3D V6 X-carriage

Would M3.5's work?

How did you make the x carriage for your linear bearing and does it have a belt holder?

Here's the X-carriage link if you're missing it:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119616/#files

***Just wondering, and forgive this if it's been asked already, but why can't the holes be lined up for the normal bearing housings? I mean do we REALLY need an x-carriage at all?

Prusa i3 Rework

I am going to print this one as soon as I get my new hotend and extruder. can you tell me what x axis mount you used to mount the hot end to?

thanks!

@Tech2C Thanks for sharing your work, Love it.

I was wondering if you could knock up a mount for an Aus3D IR Z Probe. http://aus3d.com.au/ir-z-probe-13

I cant stand the recommended mount on to the fan duct of E3D hot end. The ZR probe should be on a fixed surface that doesn't wiggle.

I was thinking maybe the left or right side of the fan duct on the X carriage.

I've just started to play with blender software but I'm many hours of tutorials away before I can do something basic like this.

try editing one of this
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1639085

also try fusion360 instead, much much (did I say much?) easier than blender.

Bowden extruder inductance sensor mount

Thanks, Im going to download these two from the same creator. I think I can work the slide clamp to mount IR sensor.
http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2592712
http://www.thingiverse.com/download:2592713

That website says it's discontinued. I don't think it's worth the effort to design a mount for a discontinued product?

It has been replaced with V1.4. same Mounting just slimmer profile. Actually alot of the IR sensors have same Mounting. Its all good I'll try to find d a work around. Cheers.

Jan 16, 2017 - Modified Jan 16, 2017

@Tech2C May I know if you are able to provide a updated fanduct for new e3d v6 with sock? Seems like the one on HyperCube is a tad too long causing it to scrap prints. Cheers mate!

I have a prusa i3 clone for print comparison against HyperCube (never have too many printers)

Ok, I've added v1.1 of the Duct. Please let me know if it's ok.

Cheers mate will get to printing now

Works and fits perfectly, thanks!

Wonderful, thanks for the feedback :)

What backplate are you using for bearing and this to mount to?

Hi friend, can you release the files .step or original format CAO to modify this most easily?
Thanks in advance.
Regards ;)

Any room for a bed level servo? maybe on the side?

What's the hole spacing distances for the mounting screws?

26mm but i would like to create a 32mm version to fit fan

Hi Tech2c im very fan of your design but i use a hexagon head i would like to adapt your design to my hexagon head but i cant change to much your thing because of round corner shape that i cant rework it with skechup.

My goal is to enlarge the spacing beetween the 2 holes who maintain the clamp to the body to use a 40mm fans screw on it ( to ventilate the hexagon because fan cant fit directly on the head like E3D) so can you give me the source file or just a "redraw" with 32mm distance beetween the 2 holes ? so i will be able to do CLAMP:FAN:BODY
last thing hexagone is 4.5mm please se my clamp : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1915157/#files

i thanks your by advance for the helps to port you nice design on hexagon too

hexagon clamp for tech2c body
by drepou

Rather confused as to why you would include a version for a right hand endstop, but not a left hand...

ontop of that, one thing that i've found that deeply saddens me, is no one has a different version of the duct that works with this. I can't use the included duct, because it blows directly onto the brass nozzle.... which means the hotend itself gets cooled, and causes the printer to shut down... not very happy about that, but eh... So i've been looking around for other potential ducts that maybe someone's made to slip into it, but just can't find anything....

I made a mixup. Give it a try.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2177911

Semi circular fan duct for Tech2C E3D V6 X-carriage
Nov 25, 2016 - Modified Nov 25, 2016
Tech2C - in reply to HikariNoKitsune

Confused? You can simply flip/mirror the part in your favourite slicing program to convert the right hand endstop to left hand.

This mount is for E3D v6 and compatible clones. If the fan duct is the wrong height for your hotend then chances are your hotend isn't an exact E3D v6?

It's probably because I have it upside down so it will work with the end stop. That and abs shrinkage. And I've tried flipping/mirroring, it just ends up putting the part upside lol.

Hi Tech2C,
What's your actual X carriage model used with this design ?
Maybe I can adapt it to my Pi3.

I listed the x-carriage in the description.

How much longer on the inductive sensor type? I am keen for that one. Also will you mount it on the right side?

Hey, I've moved on to the HyperCube printer which has a similar design, but I no longer make mods for this extruder.
Checkout the remixes as others have made inductive sensor mounts for this. Cheers!

Hello, I would like to know if you used supports to print these parts, in case you don't, what is the orientation and the printing parameters?

Thank you

Printing now! Inductive sensor info in the 54 comments?

Sep 20, 2016 - Modified Sep 21, 2016

Nice design, I like it. But I wonder whether vertically slotted mount holes for the air duct, allowing slight height adjustment of the air nozzle, could come in handy.
Do you have plans for a dual extruder version?

Hi there tech2c,

Would it be possible for you, or one of the community, to incorporate the servo mount from this : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:757336 into the design? I'm a total noob with cad and cannot manage to get it right myself..

E3D V6 Bowden mount with servo.

Hi Tech2C,
You designs and videos are really cool for beginner in 3D printing ! Thanks a lot. It happens that I bought my own printer based on your experience.

I have printed you carriage+blower but I am getting issues with overhang on the opposite side of the blower mouth.
That's why I made a remix for 2x 50mm fans, one on each side !!! and IT WORKS

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1764895

regards

E3DV6 bowden carriage from Tech2C double radial fan

How did you fix the heater temperature drop? My printer always goes on thermal runway

Make sure the fan is blowing over the nozzle, not the heater block.

Yes i already checked it and its fine but I'm not able to use the fan at 100% of speed as you show in your video.

Hi there. Can someone look at my assembly and see if the duct is correct? I think it should be lower so it blows on the bed and not on the heatblock itself. I haven't mounted it yet and am hoping others can give me some pointers first.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:250648

Thanks,
Terry

E3D Mount with blower and Z induction mount

It seems your hotend is longer than the E3D v6. The fan should be blowing over the nozzle, not the heat block.

Awesome design, clever and useful!

Would this work with the Wanhao i3 ?

thanks for sharing

are there any good remix for dual v6 extuders?

Comments deleted.

From a second version in 2016 I would have expected something more modern looking tho.

If you have not added the induction mount I did a remix with one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1695758

E3D Mount with blower and Z induction mount
by docbrew

Do you have the cad (step, igs) files of them?
I'll have to do a custom carrier plate, so i'd like to have the model to work on it.

Thanks

Hi, Can you please share the STL for the Blue duct/ Deflector part in your photo? searched far and wide i am unable to find it.
Thanks

Jul 17, 2016 - Modified Jul 17, 2016

I've tried printing the duct 4 times now with no luck in ABS. I don't have a problem with bed adhesion or warping-but the top layers, without support, and being so thin, I'm not sure how to print. The top layer fill lines just fall through in the first layer, then have issues connecting through the rest of the print.

I have a HICTOP Prusa i3 with the complete bed rework. Currently strengthening the frame to new threaded rod construction and converting to bowden with E3Dv6 (or trying...).

Can anyone help me figure out how I can get this blower duct printed? I print PLA and some others that go best with layer fan so I don't want to lose that capability.

EDIT: Also, does anyone see why I wouldn't be able to print this in Taulman Alloy 910-as I think that would increase the heat resistance of these parts.

Hi morris4019,
Firstly I wouldn't recommend printing this in Nylon as higher temperatures causes that material to be flexible.
I use Cura 15.04 to slice this design, have your tried Cura? Whichever slicing program you use should recognize the duct as being a bridge print when printing the top part. Try another slicer, and also print it a bit faster.
Don't be shy to activate the layer cooling fan with ABS when printing the duct at a higher layer either, albeit a lower fan speed.

I do use Cura to do all my slicing-is there a setting I am missing (i've set a bunch to visible that aren't there by default) because i see nothing talking about bridges specifically. I'm using Cura 2.1.2 (mac and windows). I have noticed that if i rotate the view around, within cura, it appears that anywhere there is a bridge (and face that adheres to bed) are shaded red-is that what you are meaning by it "recognizing the duc as being a bridge print"?

Lastly, i'm curious as to the Nylon recommendation (or lack of one). Everything i'm reading from their site says that it should actually be stronger, with higher heat resistance, than ABS-so is there something i'm overlooking with ABS vs Nylon? Specifically i was using the Taulman Alloy 910.

Interesting... another look at the Ultimaker Site, for Cura-i clicked the giant blue button for Cura 2.1.2-but directly below it is a download link to 15.04.6.... not sure why there are two versions-but re-downloaded and going to test it out to see if i can find other settings :)

I have a jhead hotend is there anyway this can be modified to work with it. The groove on the jhead is narrower than the e3dv6. Thanks Gary

I really like your design. And it's working quite well on my printer setup.

Have you ever thought about creating a circular cooling duct for your hotend mount?
Like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1547256

Having cold air only from one direction makes prints like this one (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757) for me almost impossible.

Circular cooling duct i3, Hessine M505, Anet A8 (MK8 based extruder)
by markwv
Hollow Calibration Pyramid

Have you tried printing that Hollow Calibration Pyramid with this E3D v2 mount and blower cooling setup?

Yes, of course.
The rear end is always much cleaner. The front looks almost as if the filament gets blown away.

Ok, I just printed the hollow pyramid. Almost perfect result, with minor overlapping layers at the layer change and retraction points. I wouldn't be disappointed with the finished print. I was printing at 35mm/s, 0.2mm layer height, 2 shells, 15% infill, PLA @ 195c, heat bed @ 50c.

If your uncomfortable with the single fan duct someone could create a dual duct for it. It is a modular design so the community can chip-in ;)

I will design a dual duct eventually otherwise...

I've think this Thing is amazing but i've got a Problem... :(

If the first few Layers are printed and the Radial Fan starts the System stops after a peace of time 2-10min.
I become a Thermal Runaway.

The Thermistor on the Heatbed is under a Filaprint build plate and the Thermistor is on the other side of the Heatblock so that the fan cann't blow directly to the e3D Thermistor.

Hi,
I really want to try this mount, however my printer (a Hictop 3DP-11) mountin plate is covered with linear bearing screw holes, and I can't find a clear are that doesn't clash with the ones on the backplate for this mount.

Is there any chance you could do one with no holes in the mounting plate and I can drill it where appropriate.

It looks really good and I'm hoping this will be the answer to my upgrade solution.

Thanks

I have created an inductance sensor clamp for the extruder mount:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1639085

Bowden extruder inductance sensor mount

Because of the sensing distance of 8mm I'm planning to use the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor. It has a 18mm diameter. Any chance you can make a 18mm connector as well?

Ton

Hi Toniaar,

I have added a STL version with an 18mm hole if you want to try it earlier. I have not printed the 18mm hole version myself.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1639085

Bowden extruder inductance sensor mount

Ill give it a try

Sure. Once I receive mine I'll add a few different size diameters.

I like the idea of incorporating the blower fan on the x-carriage. Question... the 30mm fan in your photo... what is the function of the duct in front of it?

Wes

That tiny 30mm fan produces quite a draft as the air enters the fan. The duct is there to direct the incoming draft from above, limiting the draft flowing over the printed part, mainly for high shrinkage plastics like ABS, PC, etc.

hi, this is a very nice design. i would like to use it with my 2 printers but i got on one an servo and on the other an inductive sensor for autoleveling. do you have any parts that will help me?

Inductive sensor I have on order. When it arrives I'll add a mount with inductive sensor support.
What do you use the servo for if you are already using an inductive sensor?

Jun 20, 2016 - Modified Jun 20, 2016
KrX3D - in reply to Tech2C

hey,
like i said i got two printers. One printer got an inductive sensor and the other uses and servo motor with an micro switch.
which inductive sensor did you buy ? one with 12mm ( LJ12A3-4-Z/BX) ?

http://tinyurl.com/ztnz3ua

Ah, my bad. Yes the sensor I have on order is the same part number LJ12A3-4-Z/BX.
I don't intend to add a mount for servo support as I won't be using it, sorry.

no problems.

so i will just wait for your sensor to arrave and till you make this upgrade.

thansk for sharing !

Nice design i will try it to replace my wade L3K to bowden
i hope the blower is as much efficient that the 2 40*40 ventilo with fanduct used on my L3K

You will be pleasantly surprised by how much air these blower/radial fans push. Needless to say airflow won't be an issue ;)

Jun 19, 2016 - Modified Jun 19, 2016
drepou - in reply to Tech2C

Cool thanks !

i have one unused so i will try it because design is so simple and your marvins look just perfect congrats !

I really improved my prints with the anti wooble design http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518773 using direct drive.
i hoppe it will be ok to keep it for bowden design.

I want to go to bowden to print faster but keep the quality of print so from my opinion weight on X need to be so low as possible.
But because i will reduce the weight of my X axis, may be i will be oblige to reprint normal screwed "x idler" to restore Z and X "axis link" because weight on anti wooble system is used to "fix" the unwanted "free movement" between screew and nuts ( sorry i dont have term in english backslash ? )

For others makers I already printed the clamp it fit perfectly to my ED3 V5 clone from FREETRADE seller ( ali express ) but i thinks we have to redraw the duct because V5 rad is 50mm and V6 only 45mm

PRUSA I3 ANTI Z WOBBLE + X BELT TENSIONER
by Ouinche
Jun 19, 2016 - Modified Jun 19, 2016

Hi, printing mine now. Have you ever considered using an inductance sensor for levelling? Maybe you have never needed to?

I find my heat bed is bowed enough that I need to sample height in several places to get the first layer to bond well, regardless of how well I set up end stops.

I've just ordered an inductive sensor! When it arrives I'll add another mount with sensor support ;)

Jun 18, 2016 - Modified Jun 18, 2016

Hi :)

I really love your designs, I have printed the first version of your bowden setup and it works like a charm. I am very interested in this version, the only problem is that I have the clone version or the E3D V6.
Can you add the clone version of this design as you already did with the other one please? :)
That would be awsome!

UPDATE: I just saw the description, so this setup is directly compatible with the clone version without modification?

Yep ;)

Love your designs, flying the peon for a couple months now. Can you make a version of this with m3 screws holding the e3d?

Using washers with M3 screws should do the trick. Cheers!

is this abs ? or something else

ABS is recommended, but I have used PLA and it is ok too.

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