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FlashForge Creator Pro front dual fan duct

by DrLex, published

FlashForge Creator Pro front dual fan duct by DrLex Jul 15, 2016
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Summary

This is a drop-in replacement fan duct that fits the FlashForge Creator Pro and similar models that have the ‘turbo fan’ at the left of the nozzles. It has been confirmed to fit the 2015 FFCP (with upwards opening door), the 2016 (sideways door), and the Dreamer.

The stock duct has an obvious problem: it only cools the left nozzle. This means it pretty much obliges you to always print filaments like PLA or PETG with the left nozzle, because they require active cooling for a good result. This new duct offers cooling for both nozzles at the same time, which allows you to use any filament with any of the nozzles, and also do dual PLA extrusions with proper cooling as well.

After reports that the v4 and v5 versions of this duct did not perform as well as the stock duct (for single extrusion with the left nozzle obviously), I made some more improvements and did some extensive tests that confirmed the new v6 outperforms the stock duct on a particular challenging model. It is however still possible that the stock duct will provide better results in specific situations, but those should be rare.

Be sure to check for updates: this design has been improved multiple times and it is possible there will be future updates. I didn't mark it as being a ‘work-in-progress’ because each version is usable on its own. Before printing, remember to check whether the file you downloaded is the newest version. Check the updates section below for information about the latest version (currently v6).

Printing
This should be printed in a filament that can withstand some heat like ABS. Avoid PLA, as it is likely to deform from the heat of the nozzles and possibly the heated bed as well. PETG is not recommended either: it will deform rather quickly (been there, done that). A translucent material has the advantage that it will pass through some of the light from the LED strip (although you may want to add an extra LED to compensate).

No supports, raft, or brim needed, just ensure your table is well-levelled. The model has internal structures to minimise the risk of problems caused by your slicer and printer, but only if you print it with the intake pointing upwards. The fan should be enabled, if not all the time, then at least while the large overhangs are being printed.

Installing
The only post-processing you should probably do, is widen the small hole next to the screw with a 2mm drill, this will ensure a perfect and snug fit.

Your nozzles should be roughly at the stock installation height for the airflow to be correctly aimed. If you're not sure whether they still are, you can use this leveler.
Mounting is very easy. You will have a tiny bit of margin to wiggle the duct up and down, try to ensure it is not rubbing against the rail. The little tab should be resting on top of the cradle.

Even though it is considerably larger than the stock fan duct, my ABS print of the v5 duct weighs exactly the same as the stock duct, so there should be no impact on print performance.

If you want to retrofit the blower fan and this duct on an older printer that does not have the mounting bracket, you can print my clone of it.

Using
Just like with the stock duct, a limitation is that it only blows in one direction, meaning that parts in the ‘shadow’ of the nozzle (i.e. at the back) will get the least cooling. If possible, orient the model such that overhangs, or whatever parts should look best, are at the front.

You can enable the fan on ABS prints as well to improve quality, but this will greatly increase the risk of warping and cracking. Enabling the fan continuously with ABS is only feasible for smaller objects that are printed with thin layers. Be sure to increase your print temperature if you do, and seal the enclosure to keep the air inside cozy and warm. A raft can also help to prevent warping. On large ABS prints, you should rely on smart cooling features of your slicer software to only enable the fan while printing overhangs.

In theory you could plug the exhaust of the unused nozzle when doing single-extrusion prints. This will provide even more airflow but it is a hassle to do, and will cause the fan to spin faster because of the restricted flow, therefore do it at your own risk.

Print Settings

Printer:

FlashForge Creator Pro

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

100%


Notes:

Make sure to disable supports, otherwise the duct may be blocked by supports created on the inside. The model is designed to be printed easily without supports, and a raft should also be unnecessary. Just ensure you have no problems printing bridges.

The infill value doesn't really matter because the model consists of thin walls for the most part. To ensure the strength of the few small solid parts, a global 100% infill is recommended. You won't be saving much filament or weight by trying to enforce a lower infill and bypassing your slicer's solid infill threshold (if it has one), you would only make the mounting parts weaker.

In Slic3r, I used two perimeters, 2 top layers and 2 bottom layers (more layers can cause a mess on the ‘ceiling’ of the duct due to quirks of the slicer).

How I Designed This

The ‘windmill test’

The basics

The screw mounting part was taken from FFCP DUCT by natewin, for the rest this was designed from scratch.

I created the first iteration by measuring the dimensions of the FFCP printing assembly with a caliper, and making a rough model of it in Blender. Then I constructed the duct around this model. For the exhaust shapes, I started out with a wet-finger guess. This seemed to do the job at first, but eventually I noticed it didn't perform well. To find out in what direction the air really was being blown, I printed a small windmill that can be mounted on an empty ballpoint refill, and enabled the fan with a custom x3g file. This showed the air was aimed way too much downward, and also at a wrong angle in the horizontal plane. So, I tweaked the exhaust shapes and printed new ones, testing them with the little windmill until the airflow was just right. Of course I didn't re-print the entire duct every time, only the exhaust part, which I attached to the decapitated duct with some adhesive tape (nope, not with duct tape, just ordinary tape).

I did the same windmill test on the stock fan duct, and it also suffers from a poorly aimed airflow. So even if you will never print with more than one nozzle, this should still be a noticeable upgrade.

Now with more science!

The refinements

For the v6 version, I went even further and compared the performance of new prototypes to the stock duct and the v5. For this, I created a small mushroom-shaped model which I printed in PLA at a higher temperature than usual. This model warps like crazy without proper cooling. Because my duct blows from the front unlike the stock duct which blows from the left, I manipulated the test GCode file by rotating all coordinates 90° clockwise, to make the comparison as fair as possible. This ensured that when printing the test with the stock duct, exactly the same movements were made with the air blowing roughly from the same direction w.r.t. the orientation of the model.

Updates

Version 2 (July 27, 2016)

If you printed the first version, you will definitely want to upgrade to this one: the first version directed its air way too much downwards and performed even worse than the stock duct (which also doesn't really produce any appreciable airflow at the height of the nozzle). This new duct should allow to print overhangs that previously ended in disaster, with both nozzles. Moreover, it requires less material, making it lighter than the first one.

Version 3 (October 1, 2016)

This is a minor upgrade from v2, the only differences are that it has thinner walls and other tweaks to require less material, and I modified the bottom to reduce obstruction of the view. I specifically made this version to be printed in PETG. Even though PETG is considerably heavier than ABS, thanks to the weight trimming v3 weighs less in PETG than v2 did in ABS. However, my PETG duct eventually started to melt so I do not recommend it, unless you always enable the fan and print at low temperatures.

Version 4 (October 15, 2016)

Again small changes, most important is that the exhausts are slightly further away from the heaters, this provides a better directed airflow and lower risk of melting. Also some more weight trimming.

Version 5 (December 18, 2016)

Added plugs, rounded one of the corners mainly for aesthetic reasons (although it could help a bit to reduce turbulence), also improved airflow where the exhaust joins the main body. Again shaved off a bit of material as well, and tweaked some of the internal structures to reduce the risk that slicer programs will make a mess out of the ‘ceiling’ part.
(Small update December 20th: chamfered the inlet as per suggestion by user FlashErase, to make it easier to install the duct.)

The v2 model is still available, in case you would have problems creating a strong print from the v5 model, but I highly recommend to try printing the v5 first.

Version 6 (December 30, 2016)

Increased the radius of the front right corner (this really should reduce turbulence), and made other small airflow improvements. Redesigned the exhausts to be larger and better directed, and incorporated small baffles to ensure the air is aimed directly at the nozzles. Also incorporated small details that increase the chance of good bridging. Small bonus: it produces a slight jet engine sound.

Removed the v2 model: the v6 should be so easy to print and is so much better than the v2, that there is no point anymore in allowing people to print this old version. Dropped the plugs as well: they were way too finicky to install and remove, and they caused the fan to spin faster, which could cause it to wear out quickly.

Future plans

I plan on creating variations that have a single wider exhaust for either the left or right nozzle only. This would provide more airflow if you're printing with only one nozzle. I have thought about making the exhausts modular to avoid the need for printing an entire duct for each situation, but I cannot think of a system that will be both reliable and practical. The duct uses little material anyway, and swapping it entirely can be done in about 30 seconds with some practice, even without having to remove the hood from the printer.

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I need it to be a little bit lower.. Right now it blows more on the nozzle than the actual print.. There should be something to hold it down so it doesn't spring up.. And if I need it lower I could then add a spacing..

The whole reason why I designed it this way, is that it would cool the plastic as quickly as possible. The purpose of this duct is not to cool parts of the print that were printed a while ago, it is to cool the plastic immediately after it has been deposited, therefore it must blow a significant amount of air towards the nozzle itself. If you're going to print a steep overhang or short layers, the plastic needs to be cooled immediately, and that won't happen if all the air is aimed below the nozzle. A duct that blows air downwards may seem to work well during the first few layers because the air bounces back on the platform, but it will be useless for higher layers.

If you printed and mounted the duct correctly, the little tab should be resting on the carriage (or have less than a mm between). If it is not, try loosening the two screws of the fan and the screw of the duct, then tighten the screws again while pushing down the duct. If it still springs up after this, either it is warped or your carriage does not have the same shape as mine.

Apr 7, 2017 - Modified Apr 7, 2017

I see you warned against PETG, the PETG I have is a high temperature like ABS. what melting temperature was yours? what happened to yours? reason I wanted to use it was because it is clear.

It looks like this
It is PETG from rigid.ink, but I don't know the exact temperature properties. Typically, the glass transition temperature for PETG is around 75°C to 80°C, and so is its heat deflection temperature (see this table). I suspect that my ABS ducts also get soft when I print with the fan disabled or at a low setting, but they seem to be able to hold their shape, while PETG starts deforming very quickly when it goes above a certain temperature.

I have tried printing the v6 stl 4 times now and every time I run into many issues. Is there a way to increase the wall thickness of the print?

What exactly goes wrong? If you have problems printing this, then you will also have problems with other models…

I actually didnt know about this settings, but in Simplify3d if you go to Other in your process and change the Horizontal size compensation. That will increase or decrease the walls.

I will try that and I will let you know if I have any issues.

I thought of suggesting that, but it should not be necessary. You may also have difficulties installing the duct if you add too much thickness, and in more extreme cases, airflow may be reduced as well.
Try printing slower and hotter to get better layer adhesion. Ensure there is no draft in the enclosure (assuming you are printing this in ABS), and check that there are at least 2 perimeters all across the entire model. If that's not the case, reduce extrusion width. You can also try printing at a smaller layer height, which should improve layer adhesion as well.

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017
Juscallmesteve - in reply to DrLex

Here is how I am printing it

Filament : Hatchbox White ABS

Layer Height : 0.1mm

Temperature : 235C

Top Solid Layers : 3

Bottom Solid Layers : 3

Outline/Perimeter Shells : 3 --- I am not seeing 3 when it prints, only two at the most.

Nozzle Diameter : 0.4mm

Extrusion Multiplier : 1.00

Extrusion Width : 0.40mm

Speed : 2240 mm/min (37.33mm a sec) --- I slowed it down from 2800mm/min to see if that would fix the issue and it did not solve, but reduced it.

I am printing enclosed with a sponge to close off the hole for the front door and I think it is your design for the top part of the enclosure hole.

Do you enable the fan? Do not enable it all the time, unless you have a way to reduce the speed (which would only be the case if you added an external PWM controller or installed custom firmware). It is OK to enable it for bridges and overhangs.
Try printing even slower, I usually print this duct at 24mm/s, but that's at 0.2mm layers. At 0.1mm this speed may be annoyingly slow.

You may need to bump your extrusion multiplier a bit. Even if you accurately measured the diameter of your filament and configured that in your slicer, the extruder may still under-extrude slightly due to the sprocket of the extruder biting into the filament. Deliberately over-extruding may also help to get better layer adhesion, after all this is not a part that requires micrometer precision.

To save time and filament, cut up the model into the part that seems the most problematic, and only print that until you get it right.

Awesome and great suggestions. Thank you very much

Apr 1, 2017 - Modified Apr 1, 2017
Juscallmesteve - in reply to DrLex

When removing from print bed the layers separate in many areas, as well as I had an issue where on the curved area above the v6(if you are looking at the print once installed) I have an issue where a specific layer is placed incorrectly causes a small hole there. The hole is not because of the model, because the model is amazing. It has to either be something with Simplify3D or something with my printer.

dude, your a GOD! thank you so much, all the things you made are issues i was having with my dreamer. do you happen to have a mod for the top where the filament goes? mine is getting literally worn thru with all the grinding friction from the material passing over it. i had to mad the cover and make a custom feed to have it receive the filament from the front but when i did that sometimes the filament gets too hot and actually falls out of the top lol. please help

Mar 18, 2017 - Modified Mar 18, 2017
DrLex - in reply to homeboyholmes

I don't have a Dreamer, the Creator Pro has quite a different carriage design so I'm afraid I cannot help you with that.
If you search a bit though, you'll find some designs that intend to avoid the wear problem, like this one.

Porta filamento per Flashforge Dreamer

I fixed it with TPFE Tubes 4 x 2mm diameters http://imgur.com/a/NRtpA

I recently printed this out and installed it, I was told it would stop the problem I had with warping PLA that would lift off then stick to the extruder and lift off the whole first layer with it. Well my problem stopped for a few prints, then persisted. I'm in the process of trying to get a glass bed, but so far putting painter's tape on the bed has helped, but the problem is: I have to remove it for ABS, It's not consistent in its help, and sometimes it will peel off, making the whole print horrible. You can obviously print pretty good, can you share some of your expertise on what to do?

Adding more cooling will not help with bed adhesion, in general it will make it worse. You should definitely disable the fan during printing of the first two or three layers.
You should check out [the list of hints|https://www.dr-lex.be/info-stuff/print3d-ffcp.html#hints] on my site, especially the part about adhesion. Since I follow that workflow, I have no more problems with detaching first layers. Only too aggressive cooling can still cause parts to warp, but even then they don't detach and take a ride on the nozzle.

totally agree. no fan on my first 2 layers, and the bed set to 55*C. LEVEL LEVEL LEVEL, like i was told when i first got into this "when you think its level check again". Make sure there isn't a little blob on the end of the extruder. i use a brass brush lightly when preheated to clean the tip before i level (took a while to get that one right, but had to get steel hot end), made a world of difference.

So at what heights would the nozzles need to be at to be in an optimal location for this duct. I'm going to assume in the stock location? I.E being leveled with a tool like this? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1582720 Otherwise if yours are lower or higher, I feel the air would hit the nozzle or too low correct?

MK10 Hotend Leveler

Yes, I aligned my nozzles with that leveler, therefore they need to be roughly at that height for optimal performance. A millimeter up or down won't make a big difference, but more will be problematic.

I actually leveled my hotend with this leveler, but the air blows on the heaterblock, and not on the nozzle. D:

Comments deleted.
Feb 19, 2017 - Modified Feb 19, 2017

Thanks for this, I am printing it now, but I have heard great things about it. But I would like to see the print process once this is installed. I doubt it, but would it be possible to just print a second duct for the right side? Again I doubt it because it would probably interfere with how far right you can go, but please tell me if you know.

Do you mean attaching a second blower fan to the right and making another duct for it? There is no room and no provision to attach anything to the right side, unless you would be prepared to drill extra holes. The X homing coordinate would shift to the left by the thickness of whatever you add, and there is a risk the fan would just be shoved into the carriage and be damaged. And of course, you would be adding quite a bit of extra weight, and would need to somehow provide power to that second fan as well.
I find the reduction in visibility of what is being printed no big deal. The biggest problem is that the light from the LED strip is blocked, but that can be fixed by installing some extra lighting like this.

5 mm LED mount clip for 8 mm X axis
by DrLex

plus the extra mass would effect travel speeds

Great design!

Is there any chance that you could modify this so that the air blows from behind the extruders, rather than from in front of the extruders?

That would provide visibility of the print process, and permit easier cleaning of the extruders.

That would require a complete redesign for what I consider only a small gain. I would rather redesign it such that air is being blown at each nozzle from two directions, to get rid of the ‘shadow’ effect where parts at the other side of the exhaust get the least cooling.

OK, thanks. I understand.

You seem to be lacking the adapter part that is screwed onto the left of the heatsink bar in the 2016 model, onto which the duct should be mounted. Can you take a photo of the left side of your carriage without the duct?

Hi DrLex, thanks for such a swift reply :-)

Here is the photo you requested from my FF Creator Pro 2014/15
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5485939/FlashFORGE/duct/2017-02-05%2011.16.22.jpg

Well, you were just lucky that I checked my dashboard at that time :)
You are indeed missing that part, but the carriage looks the same otherwise, so it will fit. The adapter is just a flat thing made out of basically a rectangle and circular shape, so it is easy to model. You will need this part anyway if you want to mount the blower fan. I'll release it as a new Thing within a few hours, but now it's lunch time first…

Many thanks :-)

Here you go: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2086927
I haven't printed this, so let me know if something is wrong about the model.

FlashForge Creator Pro side blower fan bracket mount
by DrLex

SuperSTAR !
Thank you for all that work.
I will have a go mid-week.

BOOM! :-)
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5485939/FlashFORGE/2017-02-08%2014.54.34.jpg

My last question is ... when the FF Pro goes to start a print, it parks itself front left corner ... which causes the fan and duct assembly to crash into the left side rail gantry ... I expect this is a GCODE issue that can overcome that?

It depends on what software you're using, but you should be able to edit the start G-code and modify the coordinates of that parking move so it doesn't move too far to the left. If you're not entirely happy with your current start G-code as a whole, you could take a look at the code I provide on my website. It's meant for Slic3r, but should work with other slicers as well.

SORTED :-) √√
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5485939/FlashFORGE/ANSWER%20Screenshot%202017-02-09%2012.19.27.png
I am using FF Pro Creator 0214/2015 with Simplify3D v3.1 on OSX 10.12.x

Dec 17, 2016 - Modified Dec 17, 2016

Nice idea. Unfortunately I had to return to the original duct after the first tries. It seems that the fan has not enough power to generate a sufficient air flow for two outlets.
With the new duct the quality of overhangs decreased dramatically. The left bullet in the third picture here ( http://www.thingiverse.com/make:276554 ) was printed with the original duct, the right bullet with the new duct and identical printer settings. I think for the second nozzle there would be a second fan necessary.

FlashForge Creator Pro front dual fan duct

Curious, because I noticed a marked improvement over the stock nozzle. The two outlets taken together aren't larger than the single outlet of the stock duct, therefore airflow should be similar (albeit more directed). Are you sure you printed the duct without supports? If you don't plan to use it anyway, you could do an ‘autopsy’ on it.

It is plausible that the stock duct performs better for prints with overhangs near the build platform, because it aims the air downwards. The air bouncing back could provide better cooling in a wide area. However, I have found the stock duct mostly useless for any overhangs higher up in the print, because most of the air goes to layers that have already cooled…

Dec 17, 2016 - Modified Dec 17, 2016
FlashErase - in reply to DrLex

Yes, I printed the duct complete without supports and using the stock duct. The only critical layer was the bridging layer closing the upper side of the horicontal tube: http://www2.pic-upload.de/img/32311090/fanduct.jpg
But I watched this layer during the print process and the bridging areas were flat and not sagging. So there is no autopsy necessary. Blowing with the mouth into the inlet of the duct there is no appreciable flow resistance to feel.
OK, I've two additional fans on the side panels blowing mainly into the nozzle cooling fan and the extruder cooling fans but I can't believe that this should be the reason for the so different behaviour comparing to your printer.

I have done some more tests and it seems indeed that my previous assumption that this duct offers better airflow even for single-extrusion prints, was based on an experiment where I changed more than one parameter at a time… bad science! I modified the description accordingly.
However, I cannot manage to get worse results with my duct than with the stock duct. Both ducts have the predictable weakness that parts in the ‘shadow’ of the nozzle get the least cooling, but aside from that, quality looks the same. I have re-verified that the stock duct has less airflow at the nozzle, therefore I believe it will perform worse with prints where the air cannot bounce around enough to reach the freshly printed material.

Nevertheless, I am always willing to improve upon my designs, therefore I have done some modifications that should offer more airflow by widening the largest choke point in the design. It is hard to quantify the improvement, but blowing air through the v5 requires a little less effort and is less noisy than the v4. More importantly, I have also provided little plugs that can be used to block one of the exhausts to get maximum cooling on single extrusions.

Dec 20, 2016 - Modified Dec 20, 2016
FlashErase - in reply to DrLex

Thank you for your engagement to perfect your duct. I tried your V5 today. It brings better results than the V4 but unfortunately it still doesn't reach the efficiency of the stock duct. http://www.thingiverse.com/make:278324
Independent from that I'd recommend to make a small outer chamfer on the edges of the ducts inlet to make the insertion into the fan easier.

The deviations increase with increasing distance to the ducts outlet and are worst on the opposite site of the outlet. It seems that the flow shadow of the printed part prevents a sufficient cooling of the overhang because of the more concentrated outlet of this duct.

FlashForge Creator Pro front dual fan duct

Here's a late Christmas present: the v6. I did extensive tests and iterations on this one, and it visibly outperforms the stock duct on a particular test model. Actually the v5 already beats the stock duct on this model, but the v6 is even better.

In the meantime I have learnt though that the optimal duct shape differs depending on what goal is to be achieved: either improving overhangs, or cooling down short layers that would otherwise melt into each other. These two articles show some interesting results: 1, 2.
The test model I used is a compromise between both goals, because I don't want the duct to be specialised for only one application. Therefore it is still possible that for your particular model, the stock duct will perform better. But in general the v6 duct should outperform the stock duct.

Mini Mushroom Overhang & Short Layer Torture Test
by DrLex

Thanks for the improvement and the interesting links.
I printed and mounted V6 meanwhile but didn't make tests yet. I will update my experiences after I printed my next PLA-parts with overhangs.
Happy new year!

Comments deleted.

Thanks for trying the new design and doing some more tests. I assume the new test was done with the other exhaust plugged. I didn't expect the v5 to match the stock duct, but it is nice to see that things have improved. I expect to get even more improvement by modifying the shape of the exhausts, after all I never tweaked them beyond the point where they were aimed in the right direction and seemed to work well enough. I am not an expert in aerodynamics or fluid dynamics unfortunately, so this will be a matter of trial & error mostly.

It is a good idea to chamfer the edges, I updated the model (no new version because it is a minor change).

I made the last try with the second outlet unplugged to stay comparable to the test with the V4.
I tried to plug the second outlet for another test but even with the tool I had no chance to get the plug into the outlet. I tested the insertion successfull before the mount of the duct but mounted there is not enough space between the duct and the nozzle-block to insert the plug. Because of the small distance of the heatblock and the outlet I'm afraid too that the thermal radiation of the heater will harm the plug or the outlet because there would be no more cooling airflow if plugged.

Printed this for the set of Powerspec Ultras I run, and it's perfect. Exactly what I was looking for, and a great design made printing a breeze.

With my brand-new FFCP 2016 printer I successfully printed this in ABS (my first ABS print) but inadvertently left 'generate supports' turned on in Simplify3D. After fixing that I tried to print a new copy, but now I cannot get the ABS to adhere at all to the build plate. I still have the stock 'blue' surface that came with the printer installed on the plate. It almost looks like the ABS isn't even reaching the build plate -- it just sort of curls up around the extruder head. I carefully re-leveled the build plate (it seemed like it was pretty good already, but I tweaked it very slightly), but got the same results. I am brand-new to 3D printing and really don't have a clue what I'm doing yet, so I'm sure this is my fault -- I just don't know what to do to fix it.

Try following the recommendations from the article I wrote.
I also have had such occasions where the surface suddenly wouldn't stick to anything, the acetone wipe trick always helped in that case, but it should only be a last resort. Try using the custom levelling files and a regular cleaning agent first.

Nov 28, 2016 - Modified Nov 28, 2016
MarkHargrove - in reply to DrLex

I'm sure it will be obvious in hindsight, but how do I use the custom leveling files? If I simply load one of the x3g files into Simplify3D and "play" it, I can see the tool head moving to various locations, but I don't see how that helps me level since it doesn't pause at each test point (or at least, it doesn't in the Simplify3D simulation).

Sorry for the really basic questions!

The article you linked is awesome -- thanks!

You need to play the files from the SD card or send them to the printer via the serial connection. The printer will pause at the required moments and you then need to press the OK button to move to the next step.

As I suspected: obvious in hindsight! :-)

The leveling and bed probe files are very, very nice! I've got the build plate level now and cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol. I'll try a new print later tonight.

Is there any reason I couldn't print the fan duct and the filament feeder guides in the same job?

The build went perfectly this time (and I answered my own question: yes, I can build both parts at once :-)

Thanks very much for your help.

Just Printed this out for my Creator Pro 2016 and it fitted really well. Looking forward to trying it out. Cheers

Thank you so much, as well as making dual PLA printing much better it also solves the issue I was having of my stock nozzle hitting the clips I use to hold my glass bed in place. Top notch design.

Just want to say thank you for this amazing design, I havent tested yet to see if the flow is actually better for ABS or not but so far it looking great ! just one thing though, do you think this part will melt because it's so close to the nozzle?

Update: the PETG printed duct did start to melt after a while, so ABS or another heat-resistant filament is definitely required to print this duct.

Just FYI, I was doing some sequential printing and didn't arrange my models correctly and the duct ran into one of the models and broke completely off near the top flush with the carriage. That was a v2 duct printed in some cheap ABS that came with my printer. I printed v3 in Alloy 910 (Nylon) and have probably 15-20 hours of 255 C nylon printing on it and it is holding up fine. Nylon might be overkill but just figured I would add that. Its scary light also. I didn't think to weight it however.

I also had the v2 duct breaking when it crashed into a partially detached print. I repaired it with tape (not duct tape for a change) and it worked fine like that. I'm not sure if I would want the duct to be indestructible, maybe it is better if it gives way when things crash badly. After all, if it is broken, just print a new one…
Since I had to print a new one anyway (this time in transparent ABS), I made some tweaks which I'm about to release as ‘v4’. It has the exhausts just one mm further away from the heaters, this slightly improves the direction of the airflow and it should also reduce the risk of melting. I also did some further weight trimming. This print weighs almost exactly the same as the stock duct.

Good point. I mainly used it as a test print for the nylon as I was still working on the settings for nylon. But I might print v4 in something else soon. Thanks for a good design. I prefer this duct to all the others on here. The others might have air coming from more than one direction or other odds and ends but they are just so big. I have been using your design for probably over 600 hours and its does great.

Oct 4, 2016 - Modified Oct 4, 2016
DrLex - in reply to aurora_cypher

I have used some of the previous iterations for over a month, and never noticed any distortion when replacing the older models. Of course, while the fan is blowing, the duct will be cooling itself. Even when it is inactive, the heat radiating from the nozzles should not be sufficient to reach the glass temperature if the duct is printed in ABS or PETG (PLA could be problematic).

My impression is actually that the flow with this duct is so strong that it is problematic in some cases. ABS with thick layers will be weak when the fan is always on. Even PLA can cool too much if the object is large enough for layers to cool down by themselves. I really wish the FFCP had variable fan speed, then I could rely on Slic3r's advanced cooling, but now it's all or nothing.

Do you have the 2016 version of the Creator Pro? I have the later 2015 model and it has the side turbine duct.

Hello guys confirmed it fits perfectly on my Creator Pro 2016 ! I will add picture

I have the 2016 version as well, im pretty sure this will work, because the mounting part is exactly the same as the stock flow.

Well, I'm not familiar with all the variations on this model, I bought mine about a month and a half ago, it's the one with the door that opens sideways (hinge on the left). If the later 2015 model already has the turbofan and this duct fits, then all the better!

Can confirm it fits well on 2015 model (lift up door). Great job!

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