Tom's guided Greg's accessible hinged Wade's geared extruder
Derived from
Description
My version has an additional guide in the filament path. I tried to block the hobbed bolt as little as possible, so i added a cutout on the opposite side of the filament so one can still get to the hobbing with a needle or tweezers.
Further improvements include:
- Ziptie-slot for hotend wires
- Small cutaway on the bottom for the hotend wires
- 16mm Groovemount with countersunk screws
- Drepression for the front 608zz bolt bearing, so it doesn't rub against the plastic when moving
It prints quite nicely and works like a charm!
This was done in Solidworks due to my lack of patience and openScad knowledge.
I'll add more hotend mounts upon request.
EDIT: I've uploaded the v2 - the original file was an older revision that constrained the filament too much.
EDIT: And the v3 is here. It contains a couple tweaks:
- slimmed down the support structure for the hinge
- added a bridge-based depression for the rear bearing
- tweaked the guide channel for better printability
- the groovemount screws now sink in deeper
- the cable cutaway is now more pronounced
Instructions
Paint filament guide with acetone or ABS glue for extra strength
Use existing Greg's gears and idler
In case the whole contraption is still too tight for your setup, you can heat up the guide, insert a small screwdriver and adjust the distance from the bolt.
Enjoy consistent extruding!
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Howcome the hole where the hobbed-bolt goes through is always closed in the prints I make?
I have printed one of these and it looks great, but what idler should i use that will work with it? Cant seem to find one that looks like it would fit this design..
Great idea. I do have trouble getting it to slice on slic3r. The guide doesn't come out, it skips layers. It seems to work on skeinforge through.
Just tried it, Slic3r seems to have a problem with the thin walls. They were created 0.6mm wide, so they should come out single-walled with any normal nozzle - Slic3r seems to always do double-walls. With a nozzle diameter of just .1mm ist slices fine, so i guess it's a bug in Slic3r.
Nice! Well thought out additions. I like the idea that prevents the inner of the bearing from rubbing. It would be nice to solve that problem on both sides. I have used a printed 22mm OD 16mm ID washer which is inserted before the bearing on the gear side to solve the problem in the past.
Rubbing has never been a major issue for me, so i concluded it would be impossible to solve for the rear/bottom bearing without running into huge overhang problems. A printed shim sounds like a good idea, though.
Another idea for the bearing just came to my mind, involving more bridges. I'll try that today and see how it goes!
Could you share the .sldprt file? Those of us fortunate to have Solidworks will appreciate it. Thanks! :-)
Oh, sorry for the double-post - after taking a look at the stl file, I noticed that it is oriented with the origin halfway in the center of the part. You can fix that in Solidworks by:
Insert -
&
gt;Reference Geometry-
&
gt;Coordinate System
click on the point you wish to be on the bottom of the part as printed (I would suggest one of the vertex on the base of the part)
under Z axis, select a line (it will be vertical during printing)
In "X axis", choose the line which will be coincident to the build surface
You may need to toggle the directions of X and Y to get the orientation correct upon export. This is tricky the first time, but thereafter it becomes easy for each part you work with.
Last, when you go to "save as" .stl, go into "options" and select the name of the coordinate system you inserted under "output coordinate system" (it's probably called "coordinatesystem1")
I hope that this is of use to someone; and my sincere apologies if you already knew this.
Excellent work on the part! I look forward to printing it :-D
Exactly what i needed ..i will try with Slic3r right away thank you. 8-)
nope did not print the guide slic3r 6.0 don't like thin walls for beans.
the walls need to be twice as thick at least..
i will try V-3 next
it did print with skeinforge
but the guide was not right yet .
Make sure you print the v2 - the original one was an older version that was way too tight.
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My hotend has a width of 15.5mm at the part where it goes up into the extruder. Could you be able to assist me to create an extruder that goes with it? I have tried modifying openSCAD files etc, but I am not getting *lucky* and already had about 5 misprints...
I am working on a Mac, so I cannot open the Solidworks files, it would be great if I could get a version that I can print with a 15.5mm opening for my hotend, BUT I think it needs a little extra because my printed prints it slightly smaller.