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Guidler for a Gregs Wade.

by GregFrost, published

Guidler for a Gregs Wade. by GregFrost Feb 4, 2012

Description

Some minor changes to my filament pusher inspired by Tom's update (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16928).
I have incorporated a filament guide on the idler (and coined the term guidler).
I also took his modification so the front bearing doesnt rub and I have included a printed spacer so the bottom bearing doesnt rub either (just insert it before the bearing).
I also widened the opening a bit for better access to the hobbing (another of Tom's ideas).
I also included one of Triffid Hunter's suggestions to modify the hinge support piece slightly to make it easier to remove.

Thanks Tom and Triffid for the ideas.

Recent Comments

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Greg you should link flattr to your thingiverse account. Your extruder(s) are used on so many 3D printers, I'd like to show a little gratitude for your work - maybe others would too.

Is it just me or is the pulley and gear off scale? I have to grind off alot just to fit it.

I use PLA, but I also use an all metal extruder that requires a fan on the heatsink on the extruder barrel. This keeps everything nice and cool at the cold end of the hotend, so there is no problem with either a PLA x-carriage or extruder body.

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License

GNU - GPL
Guidler for a Gregs Wade. by GregFrost is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Comments

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DeuxVis on Jun 14, 2013 said:

Greg you should link flattr to your thingiverse account. Your extruder(s) are used on so many 3D printers, I'd like to show a little gratitude for your work - maybe others would too.

DanMoto on May 19, 2013 said:

Is it just me or is the pulley and gear off scale? I have to grind off alot just to fit it.

jjhcs1 on Nov 7, 2012 said:

which is better Wades geared or Wades swing arm extruder?

Tesadorn on Oct 28, 2012 said:

Greg, could you please make a version of the guidler that has the top filament guide 4 mil longer? My hobbed bolt does not have a deep v cut into it and my filament still slips to the side

4ndy on Sep 30, 2012 said:

Making *any* thermoplastic extruder body out of PLA is a bad idea, since its glass transition temperature and melting temperature are both far too low to deal with the heat generated in melting plastic below it. You might be able to get away with printing PLA with it if you have a powerful fan cooling the extruder, but otherwise it's a waste of time and PLA.

chrille on Jul 22, 2012 said:

Just curious to know if you've had any problems when making this in PLA. Becuse I printed your previous version in PLA, but when I used it, the heat from the hot-ens started to soften the PLA, and combined with the pressure it bent a bit, which resulted in poor prints. Currently getting my old Makerbot up and running with ABS again to see if that helps.

GregFrost on Nov 11, 2012 said:

I use PLA, but I also use an all metal extruder that requires a fan on the heatsink on the extruder barrel. This keeps everything nice and cool at the cold end of the hotend, so there is no problem with either a PLA x-carriage or extruder body.

Pawl on Mar 31, 2012 said:

The nut traps for M3 nuts seem a bit small in your stl's. I measured 5.28, shouldn't it be more like 5.5 + some extra?

Your measurements for the nut on the large wades gear are perfect though.

Pawl on Mar 31, 2012 said:

I found a corrected version in the prusa github's restructure branch

fest on Feb 23, 2012 said:

Slic3r is ignoring the membranes of motor mount holes for me- be careful to check the resulting gcode if the membranes are in place, otherwise the motor mount holes will not print correctly.

jamesmoe on Apr 5, 2012 said:

I am having this problem as well. I generated the stl from the scad in Greg's github .. membranes are there. Sliced with slic3r and no membranes. I didn't check the gcode and printed. Beautiful print except for the membranes. Anyone come up with a solution to this?

wildseyed on Feb 12, 2012 said:

Hi Greg. I've been trying to catch you on IRC for a few days to ask where I can find the parameter that controls how far apart the extruder mounting holes are. Maybe the naming is throwing me off, but I cannot find it in the scad file.

Best,

-Wildseyed-

triffid_hunter on Mar 2, 2012 said:

about halfway down,

// Mounting holes on the base.
translate(legacy_mount?[-3.4,0,-1]:[0,0,0])
for (mount=[0:1])
{
translate([-filament_feed_hole_offset+25*((mount
&
lt;1)?1:-1),

^^^ the 25*((mount
&
lt;1)?1:-1) there. hole spacing is 2*25 = 50mm.

Lenbok on Feb 9, 2012 said:

Greg, can I suggest that you have a small tab connecting the "island" of the break-away support to the main part of the extruder body -- when printing in ABS on a heated platform, it is quite easy for that small island to lift off in those first few layers before it gets to the point of connecting to the main body.

Lenbok on Feb 12, 2012 said:

I notice that the previous version of your extruder had this island start off as a full rectangle, which increases the contact area and removes the actute angle corners of the island. Around line 275 there is a -layer_thickness which when changed to +layer_thickness, will reinstate the rectangular contact patch. It prints with no problems now.

on Feb 9, 2012 said:

That sounds like you are having general adhesion problems - the support piece has never been a problem for me.

You might want to check your bed temperature (i use ~115
°C with PET tape) with an infrared thermometer and wipe off your bed with acetone every now and then. When using Kapton, i can barely get my prints off the bed, even when cooled down.

jonaskuehling on Feb 8, 2012 said:

Awesome. This is the most elegant and useful/usable extruder design so far, I think!

What I really like are these "tiltable idler screws" in combination with slotted (open to the top) idler screw holes, so that there's no need to entirely remove the screws to open the idler as seen here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Is there a chance for this feature to be added? ;-) I w
ould heavily appreciate that!

Oh, and two questions left - does you SCAD file contain an option for the reprap-fab.org Hotend? It uses 10mm PEEK thermal insulation.. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
At last my 9/47 gears (by Stoffel15) need about 4mm additional space on the bottom, could yo
u add a option for that, too?

Let me know if you need help/time, just thought it should be a lot easier for you instead of me struggling through the whole code to finde the right lines!

Thanks, anyway 8-)

jonaskuehling on Mar 1, 2012 said:

Finally I found some time to work on this for myself - have a look at http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... for all details!

on Feb 5, 2012 said:

Wow, that's actually the most elegant solution i've seen!

Could you post some STLs for those of us who don't use OpenScad?

GregFrost on Feb 5, 2012 said:

What do you want specifically? The scad produces a plate that includes the body, idler and bearing spacer ring, but you have to choose which hotend mount you want. I have added a plate with the Jhead mount and the groovemount.

Techgen on Feb 5, 2012 said:

Are those silicone rings instead of springs? If so how well do they work, and where did you get them?

GregFrost on Feb 5, 2012 said:

Yes they are. They work brilliantly. They can give a very firm hold whilst still having a small amount of give. I sliced them off of a silicone heat mat. see this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

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