Guidler for a Gregs Wade.
Description
I have incorporated a filament guide on the idler (and coined the term guidler).
I also took his modification so the front bearing doesnt rub and I have included a printed spacer so the bottom bearing doesnt rub either (just insert it before the bearing).
I also widened the opening a bit for better access to the hobbing (another of Tom's ideas).
I also included one of Triffid Hunter's suggestions to modify the hinge support piece slightly to make it easier to remove.
Thanks Tom and Triffid for the ideas.
Instructions
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Greg, could you please make a version of the guidler that has the top filament guide 4 mil longer? My hobbed bolt does not have a deep v cut into it and my filament still slips to the side
Making *any* thermoplastic extruder body out of PLA is a bad idea, since its glass transition temperature and melting temperature are both far too low to deal with the heat generated in melting plastic below it. You might be able to get away with printing PLA with it if you have a powerful fan cooling the extruder, but otherwise it's a waste of time and PLA.
Just curious to know if you've had any problems when making this in PLA. Becuse I printed your previous version in PLA, but when I used it, the heat from the hot-ens started to soften the PLA, and combined with the pressure it bent a bit, which resulted in poor prints. Currently getting my old Makerbot up and running with ABS again to see if that helps.
The nut traps for M3 nuts seem a bit small in your stl's. I measured 5.28, shouldn't it be more like 5.5 + some extra?
Your measurements for the nut on the large wades gear are perfect though.
Slic3r is ignoring the membranes of motor mount holes for me- be careful to check the resulting gcode if the membranes are in place, otherwise the motor mount holes will not print correctly.
Hi Greg. I've been trying to catch you on IRC for a few days to ask where I can find the parameter that controls how far apart the extruder mounting holes are. Maybe the naming is throwing me off, but I cannot find it in the scad file.
Best,
-Wildseyed-
Greg, can I suggest that you have a small tab connecting the "island" of the break-away support to the main part of the extruder body -- when printing in ABS on a heated platform, it is quite easy for that small island to lift off in those first few layers before it gets to the point of connecting to the main body.
I notice that the previous version of your extruder had this island start off as a full rectangle, which increases the contact area and removes the actute angle corners of the island. Around line 275 there is a -layer_thickness which when changed to +layer_thickness, will reinstate the rectangular contact patch. It prints with no problems now.
That sounds like you are having general adhesion problems - the support piece has never been a problem for me.
You might want to check your bed temperature (i use ~115
°C with PET tape) with an infrared thermometer and wipe off your bed with acetone every now and then. When using Kapton, i can barely get my prints off the bed, even when cooled down.
Awesome. This is the most elegant and useful/usable extruder design so far, I think!
What I really like are these "tiltable idler screws" in combination with slotted (open to the top) idler screw holes, so that there's no need to entirely remove the screws to open the idler as seen here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Is there a chance for this feature to be added? ;-) I w
ould heavily appreciate that!
Oh, and two questions left - does you SCAD file contain an option for the reprap-fab.org Hotend? It uses 10mm PEEK thermal insulation.. (http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
At last my 9/47 gears (by Stoffel15) need about 4mm additional space on the bottom, could yo
u add a option for that, too?
Let me know if you need help/time, just thought it should be a lot easier for you instead of me struggling through the whole code to finde the right lines!
Thanks, anyway 8-)
Wow, that's actually the most elegant solution i've seen!
Could you post some STLs for those of us who don't use OpenScad?
Are those silicone rings instead of springs? If so how well do they work, and where did you get them?
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Is it just me or is the pulley and gear off scale? I have to grind off alot just to fit it.