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Nuka Cola PC

by themitch22, published

Nuka Cola PC by themitch22 Aug 31, 2016

Contents

Design Tools

Tinkercad

License

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Thing Statistics

1765Views 273Downloads Found in Games

Summary

2nd place winner of the Quakecon 2016 Modders Inc. Bethesda/id category case mod competition.

More information here:
http://www.mitchcerroni.com/2016/08/04/nuka-cola-pc-case/

Build logs:
https://hackaday.io/project/13388-nuka-cola-pc
https://imgur.com/a/R0Ow5

PC Specs:
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/wwktpb

Big thanks to "Messy" for the original file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1140433

Also thanks to "baruthulous" for the Nuka Cola Quantum bottle files http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1163199

Print Settings

Printer:

PolyPrinter 508

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.25mm

Infill:

10%


Notes:

Used brims for all the parts, minimal warping. Used black Inland brand ABS.

The total case size is about 500x230x230mm so it depends on your printer. I used netfabb to slice my STL's into 9 printable parts.

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i'm printing on a I3 at 50mm/s @ .3mm hight, but only have a 200x200 build plate so had to cut the front into 10 sections..
Will post pics once glued together

The geometry might change slightly because of the gaps between prints, I had to adjust some of the screw holes in the acrylic laser cut SVG to fit and did a lot of sanding before gluing.

about 90 hours of printing done, just finished the front piece lol

Awesome! I printed my parts on a PolyPrinter 508, it was averaging 150mm/s so it didn't take that long, I'm sure your prints will look a lot cleaner though.

thanks, will give it a try

Just chopping this up in Netfabb now ready to start printing tomorrow

Awesome, I would like to see how it turns out. I didn't really go into detail about how the mini-ITX components are mounted. I basically printed 3 x motherboard stand offs, screwed standard standoffs to the printed holes, and also 1 x PCI-e standoff which has the dual slots for the graphics card. I basically CA glued the standoffs to the acrylic where it would clear the tabs and the 80mm fan holes. The mid-panel acrylic gets sandwiched between the front part and the main body, the holes should line up.

I would definitely recommend you print with like 5 perimeters and top/bottom layers so that the M3 threaded inserts have something to bite to.

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