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HyperCube 3D Printer

by Tech2C, published

HyperCube 3D Printer by Tech2C Sep 4, 2016

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Summary

Upgrade your 3D Printer to this frame! Re-use your motors, electronics, hotend, heatbed, etc...

Watch how the HyperCube came to be:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2jM6v3E7sU&list=PLIaArjwViQRVAERWRrYfe9rtiwvvRGCzw

I wanted to reduce the weight of the moving mass as much as possible. As the entire X-gantry is moving in the Y direction, the rails for the X axis should be light too. I chose to use 10mm anodised aluminium tubing, which is half the weight of 8mm steel rods.

Marlin 1.1-RC8 configuration.h file attached.

BOM

Frame:
T-Slot 2020 (Slot/Type 6) Aluminium Extrusion Profiles for X200 x Y200 x Z155 print bed area
(Note: If you intend to make a larger print area, then increase the length of the 2020 extrusions AND rods for each axis by the difference)

  • 4 x 340mm (X)
  • 4 x 303mm (Y)
  • 4 x 350mm (Z)
  • 2 x 285mm (Bed)
  • 1 x 135mm (Bed)

Fixings

CoreXY + Z + Bowden Drive System:

Fixings

Motors, Electronics and Accessories:

Print settings:

  • 3 Perimeters
  • 3 top/bottom layers
  • 0.25mm layer height (or better)
  • 50% infill

Print 1 of everything except below:

  • 2 x Z_Carriage
  • 4 x Z_Carriage_Clamp
  • 4 x Z_Shaft_Clamp_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Clamp_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Joiner_v1.1
  • 2 x XY_Idler
  • 3 x Y_Shaft_Clamp
  • 4 x Bed_Support_v1.1
  • 2 x Dual_Bushing_Holder

Some useful extras:
HyperCube 3D Printer Accessory Pack
Compact Bowden Extruder, 1.75mm Filament for MK7 Drive Gear
Various Z nut mounts for Integrated Leadscrew Motors

X-Axis 10mm Anodised Aluminium alternatives
If you can't find 10mm x 360mm anodised aluminium tubes for X axis, then here are 2 alternatives:
HyperCube XY_Joiner for 8mm rods on X-Gantry
X Carriage Mod for 3/8" Rod and Bearing for HyperCube 3D Printer

Notes:

  • Bed_Support_v1.1 for revised bed configuration See build log video 11
  • Z Endstop v1.1 for revised bed configuration.
  • Z_Motor v1.1 and Z_Shaft_Clamp v1.1 for bottom mounted motor
  • Fan_Duct v1.1 with extra clearance for E3D silicone socks
  • Fan_Duct v1.2 for easier bridge printing
  • X-Carriage v1.1 provides extra support to belt mount.
  • XY Joiner/Clamp v1.1 supports longer bearing LM8LUU and dual LM8UU bearings.
  • Configuration.h files updated to Marlin 1.1-RC8
  • Removed old file versions. Can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013921
  • E3D (Inductive) Sensor Mount v1.1 for improved sensor mount stability

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I'm having an interesting, and confusing issue, Y-Axis moves work fine, but X-Axis moves at 50% of commanded distance. Since both axis have identical settings, I'm not even sure how this is possible. With a standard gantry printer, I'd assume the micro-stepping was set differently on one motor, but that can't be the case here since moving either axis requires both motors and the Y-Axis is moving fine.

I decided to re-watch the videos from the build logs and took screenshots of some of the parts, how they go together, etc. Couple of things to note is that in the beginning of the build logs tech2c had parts fitted a certain way and decided to change them and explains those changes in later build logs. I strongly recommend first watching the entire build log series, and then referring back to the screenshots should you need them. Also, some of these photos may be blurry and not so high resolution because again, they're screenshots. If anybody else would like to tag along and post high res pictures of their build, it would be very welcomed and appreciated. Here's the link http://xomf.com/g/yxdff

Don't know what's wrong with the printer. Any ideas? Steps set to 80,80,400,139.5. Running .15 millimeters a second with stock settings otherwise.

https://plus.google.com/photos/photo/102676021478854155621/6403145053267401698?icm=false

Hi all, finished my 320x350 hypercube. Looks great but won't auto level correctly, it homes the first time then over shoots the second probe. Any ideas?

Can everything but the hot end brackets be printed in PLA?

everything can be pla, I use a 30% infill all is fine.

Trying to build a 400x400x400mm hypercube. Should I do anything different? I have a working hypercube and it works great! Where could I get a 400x400 bed?

400mm is a massive heatbed. Unless you have a dire need for that size I would caution against it. To achieve that size you'll probably need to change a lot of things to achieve the necessary rigidity and overcome the engineering issues. You'll need a custom cut aluminium bed and probably want to use mains voltage for the bed. For the heat pad I have nothing but praise for keenovo.com. I bought a custom silicone heat pad off them on aliexpress and it was perfect.

Wasn't actually planning on using a heated bed. Is there other structural issues I should look into?

A cold bed will solve a some of the issues (thermal expansion of a big hot bed!). But you'll still need to ensure that the motion system is rigid enough and that the bed doesn't bounce or deflect too much. You might also need to swap to a ball screw or use two acme screws, and maybe upsize the rods. Might take a bit of experimentation to get it right but I'm sure it's doable.

If anyone in Melbourne is looking for Anodised Aluminium - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322466516084

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago

Hey I was following your youtube channel and really like the prints your hypercube is doing vs what I see in smartcore machines (most likely because you use smaller/lighter bearings and lighter x-carriage with carbon rods in your latest version). Now I also want to build a corexy gantry machine but was wondering if you could make an alternative version for a regular mdf frame like the smartcore? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651117. The smartcore seems to be easier to spread as a reprap as it needs less vitamens (anyone can buy mdf plates everywhere, also it seems cheaper and with the right paint looks just as nice + you already have an enclosed case which is good for abs printing).

As I see it the alteration you only need to alter the 2 motormounts and the 2 idler parts on back to fit inside a box instead of around an aluminium extrusion. Anyways keep up the great work and also the youtube channel ;)

SmartrapCore

So what's the popular opinion voltage divider or reverse diode for those with the 12v sensor?

Reverse diode. It tolerates different voltages on either side of the diode so you don't have to fuss with the correct resistor divide ratio.
I posted a circuit in my Thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1258415

HicTop Prusa i3 Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Mount

Can this modify for dual head?

yes it can

HyperCube 3D Printer
by pivan

If you've seen the new video Tech2C made where he uses Carbon Fiber rods, he also uses IGUS bushings.
So what's the alternative to those Igus bushings?
Igus doesn't ship to were I am. And I couldn't find any distributers that did.

You could try a set of printed PLA or PETG bearings. I have a feeling it's either going to work great or the carbon fiber will wear them out very fast.

Thanks man, but Ebay won't ship here either. No US based company can unfortunately.

is there anyone in the netherlands willing to sell me the plastic parts??

Ik heb je een bericht gestuurd :)

I would be willing to, but just look at 3dhubs for a nearby hub that can help you out.

Is there a reason why the x/y-motors are in the front and not in the back?

I don't suppose there's anything to stop you putting the motors at the back,but it may get a bit crowded.The idler pulleys would need to go to the front then.Don't know if that would affect the belt directions.

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
cyberdyne - in reply to clogs

With the the motor and the rods for the buildplatform there is already unused space in the back so why not put the motors for the x/y movement back there as well. This way there should not be a problem with fans or level-sensors or other stuff near the extruder hitting the motors. Yes the idler pulleys need to be in the front but they are much smaller then the motors. For the new configuration you just have to switch x and y motor from left to right (or Switch the connections on the controller). I just wanted to ask if there is an obvious reason (that I just can't see) not to build it like this.

( Now I have one more question! What is the reason to use 2 belts instead of one in H-shape configuration. With both motors in the same hight and only one idler pully in the corners the configuration is much simpler and tentioning is so much easier. Which problem am I missing here? There must be a good reason to use the more compicated Setup, right? Is this setup better in keeping the right angle between x and y rods (if the tention of the two belts is the same). That would be a good reason! )

EDIT: Ahhh! It is called H-Bot! With this name it was quit easy to find more information. Now I know about the problems with the H-Bot design!

31 minutes ago - Modified 30 minutes ago
Nocturnal - in reply to cyberdyne

The obvious reason is that it reduces the printable area. You lose the width of the steppers from the build area, at the back and you don't get it back at the front because of the print head. Or to put it another way, the steppers at the front take up no print space because the print head already limits the motion in that direction, but if you put them at the back they are taking up usable print area. You could flip the print head, which would give you back some print area, but not all of it (since the print head cannot move past the Z rails).

H-bot configuration has skew/rotate issues (it tries to rotate the x-ax when moving). The whole reason corexy is invented is to mitigate this (it moves this rotate force onto the carriage alone instead of the whole ax). You can also have corexy that crosses belts in the back and then have it all in one plane, its actually what the alu version and the old smartcore and the original corexy that do this http://corexy.com/implementation.html. What you see is that the belts are crossed and thereby at an angle in the back. However the alternate corexy is using 2 planes like on hypercube and has advantage that all belts run straight + mitigates the h-bot issue http://reprap.org/wiki/CoreXY

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago

I have a few questions. Does this printer support direct drive? If it does, does it have the same mounting as a prusa i3 x carraige? Also, about how much does one of these printers cost? Lastly, what is the maximum print size? Thank you

Hi mikelee69

here an X-carriage with redesigned mounting holes so it can mount any i3 rework extruder (and a custom direct that I did, but it is far from being perfect)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157979

Hypercube X carriage with i3 rework compatible mount
by pivan

Yes someone did a direct drive implementation. check the remixes. I don't know if it uses the same mount as a Prusa i3 X carriage. Check the remix. Some people claim to build this printer for $280. I think $450 is a more realistic budget if you use quality parts. It will cost somewhere between those two numbers. The stock maximum print size is 200 x 200 x 155. Many people slightly enlarge the frame to print around 250 x 220 x 200. Mine is 250 x 200 x 180 and I used all stock parts except I used a solid 8 mm X bearing rod and 10 mm Z bearing rods.

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
henryarnold - in reply to henryarnold

Here are two direct drive HyperCube examples. There may be others.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842815

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2045673

HyperCube E3D Titan Mount with BLTouch and Radial Fan
Hypercube E3D Titan carriage

https://goo.gl/photos/QQ9UVBnVDVsUxVxJ9

this is the issue I am having now. Any ideas? I'm going to change one Ooze Control setting, run a test print, and so on and so on.

wow. can you tell me about your settings? If you posted them somewhere else I didn't see it.

https://goo.gl/photos/XgGhXZqNuAHjC1D57

my current settings in screenshots

Completed my build yesterday and after a few hiccups here and there it works pretty darn well! Still have some Z axis play on one side but aside from that the prints look awesome! Thanks for this design Tech2C, it's such a great base to work with and expand :)

Well-done!

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago

Love the design, excellent and fairly cheap upgrade path from prusa i3. Well constructed and charming video tutorial. Getting quality prints from the hypercube. TIP THIS DESIGNER so we can see more great things! thank you Tech2c!

Wow, thank you for your generous tip! Totally not required but thank you anyways :)

Tech2C, any chance to upload pictures from the final build from different angles. Would be beneficial to see how things come together.

kind regards
Gerhard

Mar 22, 2017 - Modified Mar 22, 2017
AnukWolf - in reply to Golkun

Agreed, I'm almost done building mine and I stumbled upon various little problems and things I didn't originally notice in the build log.
Tech2c also seems to have missed to mention some things he changed, for example, that he swapped out the 4 screws for the heat bed. I tried using the 4 screws that originally came with the springs but my hotend almost crashed into the front left one because the screw head is too large. Now I'm using no springs and 20mm M3 screws, as the 40mm ones he uses aren't mentioned anywhere.

So long story short, I love the concept but there's still some missing info and small adjustments to be made to make this truly "user-friendly" and easy to build.

@Tech2C that would be great!

I second this. Getting all the angles from the build log videos are pretty tricky.

It has been a pleasure to build the Hypercube. Made some final adjustments. I only have a noisy Y-axis and was wondering if anyone else has tried the Drylin bushings (Tech2C did it). Switching from "brass" to plastic has been a great improvement in both noise and smoothness.

Overall I am very happy with the printer. Some comments:

  • There is some play in the Z-carriage due to the nuts. I can tighten it, but not completely.
  • I am thinking of switching the carriage to the version made by Artur. Changing things is very labour intensive.

The print quality is impressive!

I'm using Drylin bushings and 10mm carbon fibre tubes. I also switched from LMUU8 bearings to Drylin in the 8mm rods. Silence really is golden.

If anyone, like me, had a lot of trouble finding the T-slot extruded aluminium in Europe (Denmark), I can really recommend www.motedis.com.
German company with all you will ever need regarding aluminium profiles and accessories.
I ordered a complete frame from the BOM with 1M extra for future upgrades for 23 Euro. Everything cut to length and perfect finish.

I can confirm, ordered mine also at Motedis. All cut in length, fits perfect.

Mar 22, 2017 - Modified Mar 22, 2017
EDH01 - in reply to LaDK

Everything cut to length? I see a minimum length of 50cm. How did you manage cut to <50?? Very nice site by the way, thanks.

You select your preferred slot (in my case 20x20 B-Type Slot 6). On the product page you can type your own custom length, from 50mm to 1980mm.

Anyone know if esteps can be changed DURING a print through gcode? I want to increase my extruder esteps a bit.

M221 S100 ; Set extrude factor override percentage

I belive that 10pcs F608ZZ Flange Bearing will not going to use in this build. I just realize that i have purchased a week ago and from the videos will not going to use them. Tech2c please remove the 10pcs F608ZZ Flange Bearing from the BOM.

Ok I've removed them from the BOM. There's been quite a few queries regarding those bearings, so they've been chopped...!
As others and myself have mentioned they can be used for spool holders, and also the Z_Leadscrew_Support (although not mandatory).

Mar 21, 2017 - Modified Mar 21, 2017
Nelujones - in reply to Tech2C

Yes I understand that perfectly and you all have right but you have mencioned like the spool holder an optional accesories. Mine I will use them in another projects. I belive that the best will be to point that like ( use for spool holder ). By the way Tech2c I am designer like you and many others and there are a lot of variation of core/xy printer but this is the only printer that have a real community and a good video build guide. SO... FROM A DESIGNER TO ANOTHER I REALY COULD NOT MODIFIE ANYTHING BEACOUSE ITS THE BEST AND SIMPLE DESIGND THAT COULD SEE ON THE RED. GREATINGS FOR THAT.

Thank you for your kind words, I'm just glad to share and help everyone with projects like this ;)

You could use them on my Spool Holder, like I did ^^
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070272

Universal Filament Spool Holder
by butchja

if anyone needs to make longer ribbon cables for the RepRapSmart Controller LCD display I have the parts to make them any length you need. I ordered 300 feet of the cable and 50 or so of the connectors. If yo need them let me know.

What will it cost and where do you live (for the shipping)? I might be interested

shipping out of Towson, MD 21286. $10 plus shipping

Hi, This is nice project. I have one printer a prusa version, but i want to build one but i want to encloser it, i saw this one and it seems to be easy to enclosure but how it is possible to cover the upper side. Any ideias ? Anyone did that ? Thanks

Tunnelplan 3D printer

Where do you actually want to add the nyloc nuts? I assembled most things with the usual nuts by now, so I'd like to change it on the necessary things before doing assembling any further.

You don't even need them, honestly. They're more trouble than they're worth. Normal ones work fine.

i used them everywhere except for the captured nuts

Put them on every place where something could get loose because of movemen e.g. screws for XY idler and xy joiner pulleys.

30x20 or 30x30 print area Hello friends, I think. the original piece, according to how many measurements are supposed to be.

4 x 340mm (X)
4 x 303mm (Y)
4 x 350mm (Z)
2 x 285mm (Bed)
1 x 135mm (Bed)

How do you connect the inductive sensor to the extruder mount

There's a small bracket you'll need to print and attach.

Would it be ok to print all the parts out of PLA just to get me up and running and then reprint them with the Hypercube out of PETG? I can get the parts printed locally out of PLA a lot cheaper then I can out of PETG.

Mine is made of PLA, its working 100% well. PLA is a lot stronger than you think

Ya that would be fine PLA isn't as weak and people say so I wouldn't even rush out reprint the parts until you have the machine really well dialed in.

How many microns would you have them printed in? 200 or 300?

I print most stuff at 250. 300 the layers are to visible and 200 just takes to long. The infill is more important.

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017
EDH01 - in reply to 556duckvader

That's no problem. My hypercube also consists only of PLA. I think PET-G is actually a bit too soft and eventually go for LW-ABS.

I am in the process of building one. The problem I am running into now is with the bed. I have 2 smooth rods and the single z t8 lead screw. If I push on either side up or down, the bed tilts, about 2mm. This seems to be due to the slop in the T8 and the nut. How have others dealt with this issue?

Thanks

You can try making a brace to hold the bed up. Or you can modify it and put a third rod on one of the sides, although I dont think bed sag is that big of a deal.

how much would everything cost in the us?

About $300-$350 for me.

Approximately $250-$300, depending on if you order from USA or import from china.

search price in these comments, I have a comment where I expand on the total cost by including tools and additional items that help or are required.

Where do I attach the fans for the extruded?

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to xd00z1

D9 http://i.imgur.com/KOjq6ri.jpg

you don't have to solder headers where it says for the extruder fan. I just put it directly into the 12v input on the ramps. Only because I forgot before I connected it to the arduino.

Which fan is which?

the cooling fan is the radial fan that sits on top of the e3d mount, the extruder fan is the other one, the one blowing over the heatsink on the e3d.

Sorry to bother you again, but how do you attach the proximity sensor to the e3d mount?

the cooling fan goes in the e3d mount at the top. https://i.ytimg.com/vi/BtmDortWBnY/maxresdefault.jpg

Where on the ramps board

I have printed all the parts for the X Carriage, and I am having a problem with my bearings binding when they approach the XY Joiner. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I am wondering if the parts I am printing are too far out of spec.

Do you mean bushings? Or are you using linear bearings?

If linear bearings and you are getting binding - somethings has to be really wrong. The LM8UU's are pretty tolerant of misalignment, within reason of course.

I'm going to assume bushings.

Do any of the bushings bind by themselves on the aluminum?

Have you measured the diameter of your rod? And the internal diameter of the bushing? My first aluminum rod was squished so it wasn't circle it was oval. Make sure you check multiple dimensions and places in your linear rails. The second one I got was bent and would bind at the joiners - i really couldn't tell by rolling it though. I'm assuming that is what it was, because I got my third and it came in a sturdy box. Measured well, and are on the printer, which is currently printing.

Measure between the center of your bushings in the xy carriage and then the center points for the rails in the xy joiner. you might not be able to see a small difference, but something larger might be apparent.

Have you tightened down your the rods in your joiners?

How far from the joiner is it binding? Try spinning the rails, one at a time, 90 degrees and see if that changes anything. A change here would signal a bent linear rod, I would think.

I realized I was having a two-fold problem. First, my supports had minor warping that was causing the rods to not be straight. Second, I realized I bought the wrong bearings and they weren't self lubricating.

Rails are smooth as butter now!

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017

Hello All,

Thank you Tech2C for sharing your design and thank you all for your contributions!

I am going to start building my printer and after I did cut the TSlot 2020 with the dimensions listed in the BOM I was watching the log videos noticing that the dimensions are different as mentioned in early videos. Are the dimensions listed in the BOM the right ones?

Thank you in advance for your reply.

The Dimensions in the BOM are right

Hello,

where are F608ZZ bearings installed?

You need one for the lead screw support (which in turn you only need when using a spring coupler for the lead screw) and the others are for the optional spool holder.

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017
godz320 - in reply to AnukWolf

thank you!

then why did I buy more than one ?!:) ok I'll use them in other places or projects :)

Can anyone send me the files for this? I know Tech2C doesnt release them, but I know a few people out there have to have modeled everything up on onshape or something and I can't get the openscad to work.

Thanks!

Also looking for the Cad files (preferably Solidworks). I'd like to modify the hypercube frame for a pick and place setup. Figured I would ask before remodeling everything.

I have everything in cad (solidworks) but I have redesigned a lot of parts and it isn't completely tested at this point. Also mine is made for a 300X300X500 build volume.

Are you open to sharing your solidworks files?

Once they are tested and approved ;) you can find my make already, just didn't add any files yet :)

I have my 500mm cubed frame already to go but trying to buy a straight 5mm smooth rod met in complete failure so I want to go to this but using V-Slot wheels. Any solidworks files would be fine if 2014, or before when solidworks was really good, or in a solid format that 2014 can work with *I despised 2015 and 2016/17 was just junky imo so I went back to 2014".

I would advise against 5mm rods for a printer that size. Mine already uses 8mm - 10mm for that axis and that's a 300 X 300 X 500 build volume, files will be up later today if I don't forget it :P

This was just to get the right side to move the left side (motor was on the right side) so was fine for that but no rod can I get straight. 8mm rod I probably could have (600mm long) from Mitsumi but at 22+shipping and there are no 16t 8mm gt2 gears I can't get the design to work. I can't simply use a motor on one side because the wheels deflect and one side will always lag. Think of the 5mm as that which is used in a Flashforge for Y so each side of Y is driven by a single motor.

what problem are you having with the openscad version? I have it and it works just fine for me. I may fail is you select draw total assembly and it will take a good amount of time to render the entire printer. Render each part and then export it to an .stl file.

does anyone have a link to the pillowblock holding the bearing for the 8mm leadscrew of z axis please?

Thanks

I am trying to decide whether or not to twist the belts. I have been running an I3 for 3 years and the belts are not twisted and the teeth on the belt look like brand new. My thought is it is not necessary to twist the belts. I am now doing a survey to see what percentage of people have twisted belts. Please answer my 1 question survey, it is anonymous. Thanks

Survey https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/DGRF6BK

Thanks!!!!

Mar 13, 2017 - Modified Mar 13, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to n9jcv

I did not twist my belts and after 3 months I have had no wear or problems .

Today I thought that the fact that not twisting the belt and running the teeth over the 6203 bearings caused the vibrations, I twisted the belts so the back of the belt is going over the bearing ... sadly no change :( :(

i twisted mine. I am not seeing anything wrong with doing it. There is plenty of clearance so I figured I'd try it. I think it works equally well either way for what I personally expect the life of the belt to be.

My belts are not twisted, and i don't see any wear on them after almost 3 months of printing, only wear is on the top edge because my pulleys are too low so it pulls the belt up but that's adjustable im just lazy

how did you do the programing?

what programming?

Tech2C, you may want top put the forum link in the Thing Details so this comment section will not explode :-)

http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-3d-printer

Search for hypercube fan duct on thingiverse. There are longer versions available

I dont know who were talking to but I just came here to ask if anyone had made a longer fan duct.. ill check it out, thanks

Hi Everyone
I have started building this fine looking printer and i have purchased a v6 clone extruder but it would appear that the clone extruders are in fact 70mm top to bottom and the genuine e3d is 63 mm this means that the parts cooling fan duct falls short of the hotend and actually blows on the side of the heater block has anyone else had this problem or knows of a solution other than buying a genuine e3d v6

I just remixed the fan duct, I have a clone too, check it out, it's working great for my clone

i also have a clone and don't have a problem. I think there is a long and short version.

I bought a clone from here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCZU8OY

I did not have a problem with the height in relation to the fan duct. This clone is a good bargain because it works well and it includes a bunch of spare parts. I know there are cheaper extruders but they could be the ones that people report clogs with.

thank you for your designs. I recently completed a Clone of the FT-5, but I used lead screws and several of your prints. Thank you. If interested https://www.facebook.com/groups/Folgertech3dPrinters/

look for Phatom-5.

how much this build cost?
total? and how many hours of printing the printed parts.. thanks im just curious.. cos i might print this instead of prusa i style..

this has been answered in this comments section.

Hi
i think there's some terminology and language problem before.
i'm using z axis end switch, not using proximity sensor.
when i use the switch, switch placed on z axis shaft and adjustable bolt placed on the bed.
i think bolt place on the z shaft and switch place on the bed would be easier for adjustment for the first layer.
isn't it?

The switch is usually on the axis, to avoid another unnecessary cable routing and movement.
However I agree with you that this way to regulate the screw isn't so comfortable. A prusa-like remix would be better.

An alternative: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1998569

HyperCube Z Axis Limit Switch - 8 & 10 mm Mount

I've seen several people ask about where to buy extrusion so I thought I would post a link to where I got mine. I found extrusions in lengths close to what I needed, and then requested that they cut them to final length. They did the cutting for free, and all of the pieces arrived accurately cut to length. They advertise the slot width at 6.2mm, and that appears to be about right. M5 screws and t-nuts fit with no problem. Just do a search within the store for 2020, and then find the lengths closes to what you need. They also sell corner brackets, t-nuts, linear rod, and bearings so I got almost everything in one place which helped with shipping cost.

http://linkcncchina.aliexpress.com/store/834897

Well, looks like China has jumped on the Hypercube bandwagon! This should make it a bit easier for folks whom can't find the extrusions. The price isn't as cheap as DIY but isn't too bad.

Congratulations to Tech2C for having a supplier voluntarily offer extrusions kits.This is awesome. It means that suppliers are recognizing that the HyperCube is a great design.

There is also Misumi which has offices around the globe. Here are the extrusions that I ordered and they worked great! They cut to order so this was for 2020 that was 600mm in length

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302683830/?HissuCode=HFS5-2020-%5B50-4000%2F0.5%5D&SeriesSpec=D001%3A%3A600&PNSearch=HFS5-2020-600

If I wish to, Can I use 80-20

I believe you can, 80-20 has 20mm extrusions with either a 5mm slot width. They do have 25mm with a 6.5mm slot width

Also, can someone tell me how much the printer costs in total if you make it the standard size? Im having trouble adding all the parts up...
Thanks in advance!!

Go down through the comments, someone published a spreasheet to do the calculation and organize parts.

Hey, are these the right Aluminum Profiles? they are 2020 but they dont say t5 or t6 however one of the pictures shows that the gap is 6.2 would this work? https://www.amazon.com/T-slot-frame-PDTech-aluminum-extrusion/dp/B06VYBQ3F6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489084074&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=2020+aluminum+profile+t6

It says:
"Made from 6061-T6 Aluminum and easy to cut"
T6. So yeah, it'll do.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017

Just what to confirm the sizing. If the current project makes a cube that is X200 x Y200 x Z155 for the bed using: 4 x 340mm (X)
4 x 303mm (Y) 4 x 350mm (Z) and I want the dimensions to be X300 x Y300 X Z300 then all I need to do is get extrusions this size: 4 x 440mm (X) 4 x 403mm (Y) 4 x 495mm (Z) and everything will work, and of course a bigger bed? I believe in the videos the dimensions are actually different but I'll use this for now.

right, in the videos he adjusts the dimensions recommendations as the build continues.

Yes, those numbers seem right to me. Do remember that you need longer steel rods, a longer lead screw, longer aluminum rods.

You will also need to adjust the dimensions of the bed.

You will need a second leadscrew - I built a 200x200x200 and the bed is sagging pretty good. I saw it getting pushed down when doing a test print (before my ramps started smoking). I'm going to experiment with adding some additional z guide rails to deal with the movement while printing. If you are going bigger, you will definitely want additional bed support.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017
thehands1 - in reply to webguy024

Thanks for the reply. I already have everything to build an outside frame X640 x Y640 x Z560 but have suggestions from folks that I should start a bit smaller thus changing it to just a tidy bit smaller. The heat bed etc. I planned on still being the 300mm square size. What I might do is put a cube in a cube to make the sizes smaller but the actual frame still be the size it is so I only have to cut a few things.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017

There are almost no supplier that has the extrusions with the 6mm slot on them... can you post the names? or links? thanks
Also the name for the supplier with the anodized Aluminum tubing?

Also for the anodized if you are in the states - good luck. I called everywhere I could, even tried foreign suppliers. They would not ship to the US... something.. something.. thanks Trump.

I ended up going with 3/8" anodized and it is working really well. It is a little smaller than 10mm.

10mm solid bearing steel works just the same, i print at 120mm/s the weight is not a problem

can you tell me what specs you are using? Filament type, nozzle temp, acceleration? I'm printing petg at 235 with 3000 acceleration at 120mm/s the infill is not getting laid enough. i've since tweaked it so the infill is a bit slower and the perimeters print at 150mm/s. I think I've reached the threshold for extruding the filament though.

I think you can get them precut to size here. https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302285350/?Inch=0

this is where I ordered from, before i found this link. The black extrusions look nice imho.

Mar 9, 2017 - Modified Mar 9, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to STIG_

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-20mm-Aluminum-Framing-Extrusion-400mm-600mm-800mm-1000mm-1200mm-Lengths-/182004100372
I ordered 7 800mm pieces and only had a small amount left over.

I bought these nuts from the same vendor. They are great nuts for the corners but not for adding accessories:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182103923716?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Corner Braces from the same vendor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182316095050?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And the hammer nuts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262535070366?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I didn't use the anodized aluminum tubing.

Would a 0.9 degree nema 17 stepper motor work fine?

Yeah, it'll do fine.

yep. you would just have to tweak the firmware settings i believe

My ramps started smoking during a test print last night. Bed was heated to 55 and it had been printing for about 10 minutes when I noticed the smoke coming from between the ramps and the arduino. I killed the power and saw that the 11A side of the power input was melted. Disassembled, ordered a replacement from amazon - next day air, and 2 more from china.

I have a mosfet module, so I decided to try it. The heat bed pin was toast for high loads, I know because I tried it :D. I tried the normal mosfet route but it just made the bed heat up constantly. moved the pin to an unused aux pin, but the voltage was only 5v and not enough to switch the mosfet. I should have known this but I didn't do my homework. So I almost gave up, then I switched the bed/fan pins. Now the fan was runing on the damaged pin. It actually worked. I don't trust it enough to print when I'm not looking, but it was a nice learning experience.

So in the end, when the new ramps arrives tomorrow, I'll be hooking up the mosfet immediately.

was that a "RED" RAMPS,,,,:P I got a running humour there CURSED just, bloody cursed and and unforgiving if left alone!.

didn't know there was a different ramps than the red one. I did order one of the mks-base controller boards. just to try it out. got my new ramps yesterday, works great with the mosfet module. Printer just needs calibration now. Lines are way underextruded even though I calculated my z-steps. Looks like today is a day of research :|

Hi guys, I've been inspired to build my own hypercube. I do not own a 3d printer so my question is how do I get the parts that were printed buy the builder? Also I've been looking at the 20 20 extrusion rail and I'm not sure what slot sizes I need. I know the nuts are m5 so I'm guessing I may need profile 6 slot? I will be doing a log on my build as it progresses. I'm currently doing a parts list for the frame so hopefully someone can help, thanks guys...

A few followers have bought their printed parts from Tech2C. Try him first. You definitely want the 2020 with 6mm slots. You will be using 5mm screws to assemble the frame and to attach parts to the 2020 extrusion.

Hey, this printer is awesome, i made one (my first) and I'm really happy, however I noticed that the inductive sensor moves like 0.1mm from print to print or maybe because of the printer speed as far as it has only one screw to fix to e3d mount , and mess my zoffset. Is there any remix or something that has at least 2 screws so that the sensor won't move again?

I tighted my sensor down a little tighter and don't have a problem with it moving now.

I noticed something similar, but I think it was my bed that moved. I'm seeing a lot of sagging in the bed, from back to front. I think you could easily drill a hole in the side without the screw and add another screw there. I might do that soon.

What kind of extrusion does this use? 80-20?

20x20

Can I make this without having the Prusa i3?

yes, you can make from scratch only buying the listed itens

Alright the HyperCube Group is gaining traction.

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-3d-printer

Again, if you could, please join the HyperCube group, and add your remixes and things for the HyperCube there. This way we can correctly keep track of this great project!

Cool!
Mine is on its way to be in the first 100.. if motedis is quick enough in shipping the extrusions :-)

Mar 7, 2017 - Modified Mar 7, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to quickbike

We should throw an online party when the 100th "Make" is logged. Tech2C has 76 HyperCubes so far.

Hahahha! That would definitely be a BYOB event!

I'm building mine now, so I'll probably have it finished before the centennial build.

i'm going to hold off reporting mine until I'm #100. lol.

Taking all the glory, I see!

There needs to be a 'HyperCube v100' that incorporates the best of the remixes. Then Tech2C needs to package it up, and sell it as an intermediate DIY Kit. I'll manage the marketing, you guys handle the money and beer.

Mar 7, 2017 - Modified Mar 8, 2017

Hello all, I'm in the building process and it is mostly going well. although the Ramps board I have is defective, (burned diode) I am able to do tests (waiting for replacement). My question is; how much tension do you put on the belts? I am afraid to put too much and wear the bearings/belts too fast. Perhaps some of you have a trick to know if they are good? I have looked a little thought the comments, there are a lots, hehe. Thanks to all who contribute, lots of great ideas and tips in here.

Reg

I put as much tension as I really could without damaging something. I just pull it tight, and screw it down. I don't know if you could make it too tight.

My ramps almost caught on fire last night.

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. I did just that and we'll see how it goes. :-)

What happened to your ramps?

I think the bed was just drawing to much power. I've read about this issue and people have upgraded their Anet's to protect against it. I had a mosfet module ready, but haven't felt like I needed it. I keep my bed 60 or below. After it started smoking, I switched it to use the mosfet (after ordering a replacement). I'm sticking with the mosfet. Need to design a holder for it.

Just a little update on my HyperCube16.....I changed a few settings (esteps for extruder) that were recommended to me , and BOOM...it started printing really nice. Then I changed the nozzle from 0.4mm to 0.25mm and oh so beautiful prints.....I am one happy camper now !!

that is great. My first test cube was better than any other test cube I have printed with my other printer. Happy with it so far, don't know if it will ever be 'done' though.

Mar 6, 2017 - Modified Mar 6, 2017

Falled in love with this project! here my very small contribution to it, an X carriage with 3x i3-rework compatible holes

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2157979

Hope it helps i3 rework owners to easily migrate all of their extruders and hotend mounts to hypercube :)

Hypercube X carriage with i3 rework compatible mount
by pivan

I tried to move x and y today, but instead of movement I get a slight vibration/beep, the belts are tight enough and the motor is trying but not moving. I have already set corexy. Thanks

Have you placed the jumpers on your ramps board? You need to place these to tell the steppers to turn (simply put).
http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/0/06/RAMPS_dossier.pdf
Page 4

Yes, I put them the way tech2c did

Hi all,

The HyperCube has obviously taken off in popularity, and so has this comments section.

There have been 2 Thingiverse groups started, one currently with four members, the other with one. I suggest we move further comments to the group with 4 members, so we can begin to group topics and what not.

I've linked the group below.

http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/hypercube-3d-printer

Thanks all!

Nice idea!

So after building a way too big frame 600mm x 600mm x 600mm. It looks like I need more support on the Y-Axis. Has anyone may 2 rod Y-axis mod for this with the X-Y joiner to work with it. The other choice would be a bigger Y-Rod and mods for it. Any suggestions?

I have a 500x500x500 and changed to a single 10mm solid steel Y-axis and to solid 10mm aluminium rods for X. I have no problems with Y-axis, as the corexy does not reall put any force on the y-axis I am working on a redesign of the xy-joiners with longer clamps for the X-axis, as the x-axis rods tend to bend in the clamp. But I did not have the time to finish it yet, as I am currently working on a 1450mm Z Axis :-)

Holly cow! 1450mm that is crazy talk...I wish you the best of luck the key will be support and a big motor. I should change the Y-axis to 10 mm solid steel but I don't have the skill to create the necessary mods to the files. I would need a 10mm Y-axis to a 3/8" X-axis Joiner and the endstop for the Y-axis and the XY Clamps for 10mm. The Y Shaft clamp right and the Y Shaft clamp left that is a lot of changes for just the Y rod change.

Mar 7, 2017 - Modified Mar 7, 2017
mbruehl - in reply to thehands1
Xy-joiner for 10mm Y-Axis (19mm bushings) Hypercube 3D Printer
by mbruehl

Class. I want to do. The question arose. And has anyone here tried to install "the diamond extruder"?

Would it be possible to do this build in IDEX (independent dual extruders)?
I'm asking because we have a bcn3d sigma at work and the build looks very similar to this (apart from the cosmetic differences that is) and I like how the bcn3d works with support material etc.

As the Hypercube is a corexy printer, both belts are responsible for the movement of both x and y axis. Because of that, it is not possible to move a second printhead by just adding one stepper/belt to the setup. http://corexy.com/theory.html

Comments deleted.
Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 5, 2017

Has anyone tried building this on stilts? I don't have a table for my printer so I'm planning to use 1m lengths for the z bars to give it 'legs'. Has anyone tried this?

If it isn't stable I'll just cut them off, if it is I might build some storage underneath.

this guy : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTaajtmhpBQ is planning on building it with 1m z-length but he's building a double hypercube in the same frame with one for printing and the other for laserengraving/cnc with a removable x-carriage.

Not sure if that is what you're looking for, but maybe you can check it out?

Cheers! I also had the idea to build a cnc under it eventually :)

US builder. Ask in the past and got good advise on other parts. I'm looking for closer suppliers of fastener parts for the hypercube build. Nuts bolts etc. The eBay link only had 300 qty for a lot of the sizes in the BOM.

bolt depot isn't that bad, got all my fasteners and some extras (metric for sake of simplicity for the build) for around $44 bucks shipped, arrived in less than a week.

I ordered from https://www.accu.co.uk/en/ . Not in the US, but shipping was pretty good to florida - 1 week. Glad I did though. they are much nicer quality and I got torx heads so they would be less likely to get stripped.

You might want to try McMaster-Carr at https://www.mcmaster.com/ they have most sizes of the necessary hardware, prices are ok. I have been buying from them for many years, service is good and shipping is prompt.

Hello, anybody knows how to get rid of nasty vibrations ?
The carriage has a very nasty vibration at only 30 mm/s, seems to be caused by the left stepper motor, but how to fix it ?
I tightened everything securely, reassembled the carriage but still same vibration .
Did anybody had this kind of vibration and was able to fix it ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vuDQUlsD3M

i had that problem just a couple days ago. It was because one of the wires in the dupont connector that actually plugs into the ramps board was not seated in the housing well. I redid all the connections and put on a new connector and fixed the problem. Just a suggestion.

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to bbogdanmircea

The vibration you describe is not normal. Try exercising each motor separately. If it is the Y motor. Try using the X driver to run the Y motor to narrow down if it is the driver or the motor. Have you checked your driver currents. Sorry if that was already suggested. The other suggestion about checking jumpers is a good idea. You may just have bad motor or driver.

You can use G codes to move an axis individually.

  1. Make sure the jumpers on your board are connected correctly. Seems like you are not microstepping.
  2. Unplug and plug your motors back in. Might be a bad connection.
  3. Try switching the motor drivers to find out if one is faulty

good luck:)

I have a Printrboard board from my former One Up printer, this one doesn't have jumpers, and I don't know about the microstepping if it can be done in the firmware or it is hardwired to same value . But the One Up was very very quiet with the same board and motors, so this is really strange . All the current pots are as originally and never touched them, steppers are not heating up.
What I can see and sense is that the carriage is vibrating when it is moved by the left motor, the one that is driving the belt on the top and which has the toothed pulley set up further away from the motor . It is like there is some resonance that is transmitter from the belt of the left motor to the carriage which the vibrates and makes this noise . Of course the noise grows as the speed grows ... I am just looking for idea how to diagnose this kind of vibrations, I ran a print with just the right motor connected to the board and of course no vibration . If you have any ideas about finding the cause of the vibration, you are welcome to put them here .

I am coming from a Two-up and my board worked after the build without issues. I am fairly sure the issue doesn't lie in the belt but the board or motor. Try what Webguy said to narrow down where the problem lies. The Printrboard doesn't have drivers though so just switch the x and y motor connectors to see if that changes anything.

based on your description, my guess would be that one of the steppers is not turning with the same ratio as the other. Both turn by themselves without issue, but together they cause a vibration. You could test this by hooking one motor up and sending it +100mm and see if it actually did that distance, then check the other motor moves the same distance. This is just a helpful guess.

Actually it's the other way around, in a corexy when only one stepper is turning, the carriage will move at 45 degree angle on both axis .
I have my infill set up to a 45 degree, and it is alternating after each layer, so each layer one stepper is continuously moving back and forth and the other is just incrementing one step .
When the left one is doing the infill, the vibrations appear .
When the right one is doing the infill, no vibrations just normal running noise .

I will exchange the motors between them to see if the vibration is moving with the motor or with the driver .
My guess it is related more to the carriage, somehow the upper belt is causing some torque effect on the carriage and that vibration, but maybe I am wrong .
I will switch motors between them, I will try with 8 mm bars for the carriage and linear ball bearings . I will exchange the XY parts between them to see if anything changes . Then if nothing works I will rebuild everything .
Also another question, my axes are inverted, if I command Y the carriage is moving on what should be X normally . I cant rotate the connectors for the steppers as they are one way . If I switch X and Y I will get just inverting of movement, but still flipped axis . I suppose I need to do something in firmware, reverse the direction of the motors ?

Mar 6, 2017 - Modified Mar 6, 2017
mbruehl - in reply to bbogdanmircea

Wouldn't it be easier to exchange the stepper drivers? Also if there is any friction in the system, you should be able to feel that when turning the single steppers by hand.

Already done that, replaced left stepper with Z stepper, same problem remains.

Latest update, I have exchange the steppers between them, and now the vibration is caused by the right stepper (before it was caused by the left stepper), so the vibration seems to be connected to the same driver, but the pots for current are same for all the drivers, what can I do ?
I will try to set up the carriage with 8 mm and ball bearings, maybe it will move easier and the load on the drivers will not be so much ?
Is this a good idea or what should I do ?
My board is the black Printrboard from the One Up, so I can't exchange drivers as they are soldered.
Also how easy should the carriage slide on the aluminium rods, my carriage is sliding very difficult with the brass bushings, more easy with IGUS plastic ones, and very very easy with ball bearings . Can this affect vibrations ?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding but if the vibration followed the stepper motor as you moved it from the left to the right mounting locations, wouldn't that indicate a bad stepper not a bad driver? If you had bad driver, the left location would have continued to vibrate as you put a different stepper there.

So I just switched the connectors on the board, I didn't move the steppers on the printer. So before the left stepper was connected to the driver for X axis and was doing the vibrations, not the right stepper is connected to the same driver and is doing the vibrations .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jl6VUvJ8CtE

In that case, I agree that you have a bad driver or it is setup wrong. You said there are no jumpers so the only thing you can check is the current setting.

Anybody knows what is the right VREF that needs to be set on the Printrboard ? somewhere I found 1.45 V, somewhere I found 0.5 V, my potentiometers were all at 12 o-clock and approximately 1.0 V, the steppers are all running very cold so I thought to up the current maybe I get rid of vibrations ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnZDZlAbdlU&t=3s

Ok did a test print with 1.45 V Vref, definitely vibrations are better with this higher current setting, I could go to 175 feed rate at 25 mm/s infill in the video, but the PROBLEM is that the steppers after 15 min were at 30-40 deg C and the drivers were hot to the touch !!!! So I stopped and will turn down the VREF .
I'm guessing I have increased friction on the carriage axis, but why it is sliding so difficult ? I will rebuild the carriage with 8 lm ball bearings to decrease friction maybe I get rid of the vibrations .

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017

Hi there folks,
I have a prusa i3 mk2, prints nicely but I don't like the frame so I want to build this awesome design with the prusa parts.

Now, the heatbed on this baby is roughly 250x220 and it uses a rambo mini, small steppermotors with integrated leadscrews for z-axis and it's own powersupply.

Is it possible to adjust the rambo fw to work with the hypercube and keep the prusa extra's like live z-adjust etc?
Has anyone done this before who maybe wants to share some wisdom with me?

I am willing to sacrifice the electronics if there are better options out there. I kinda like the touchscreen option I've seen around on a few builds, but have no clue what electronics to use there, so if you have an idea as to what would be the best electronics for this printer, I'm all ears :D

Oh, and i'm not going for the cheapest build here, just the best possible build with these components and, if necessary, some extra components.

Thanks in advance (off to print the 42 parts to get going) :D

the touchscreen is usually a smoothie board from what I have seen. I once read someone say that marlin has better thermal protections. I haven't verified that yet, but it is something I care about so I stuck with ramps for the first build. I intend to go with something more sophistacted for my second build, and smoothie is at the top of that list right now.

Smoothie board. Ok thanks, I've added it to my "things to research" list!

arpione, i believe there is a build in the build section that uses a RAMBo, look around there. It should not be a problem, other than having to find mounts that fit the extrusions. Probably remixed on here somewhere.

Thanks, I'll do a search and check it out :)

Hi TECH2C,
I'm interested in getting the latest Hypercube 3d printed parts. Please let me know cost + post to Qld?
Great video series!
Thanks

Is there an estimated final cost for this? I'd like to know a ballpark figure without having to source all the parts so I know what I'm getting myself into before I start.

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to lanesmyname

It depends on what you have already. Not just including parts, tools as well. I'd say $500 if you have none of those things. Add $200 if you also need a 3d printer to make the parts. I had a drill, screw drivers, soldering tools and a hacksaw. Here are some of the things I purchased to complete this build. Not all are required, but they improved my experience. I ended up purchasing enough parts for 2 hypercubes, so I'll be making a second one after this.

Anet A6:

to print parts (got the a6 because it was available in the US and arrived fast). It has worked well for me. I made almost no upgrades, printed all my parts in PETG @ 0.1mm - 60mm/s. 55 on the heatbed, 220 on the nozzle with a 8mm brim produced completely flat parts that come off the painters tape super easy. I used all types of other methods and this has been the best by far.

Miter Box:

to cut the extrusions. I actually have a chop saw, bought a metal cutting blade and a face mask. Cut one piece and noped right out of it. Surely it was my cheap saw, but that was extremely dangerous. Cutting them by hand was not that big of a deal. I was worried that my angles were a little off, because of the gap in the miterbox, but it made no difference because it is all squared up by the corner brackets. once everything was tightened down it was all 90 degrees.

Saw blades:

You will need extras if using a hacksaw. I went through 4 blades cutting the extrusions, steel and aluminum rods.

2.54mm Dupont connectors and crimper:

for connections to the ramps board.

Heat shrink tubing:

for covering wire connections

Resistor Pack:

thought I would need it to make a voltage divider for the inductive sensor. Turns out the inductive sensor outputs 4.2v - no divider needed. Still maybe useful in the future for lighting or something.

Kapton Tape:

to hold the wires to the headbed and wrap the wires near the heater block.

More Wire:

I ordered a set of 26awg silicon stranded wire and it is awesome. Super flexible, and the silicon sheathing does not melt when soldering or shrinking the heat tube. It also is grabbed well by the dupont connectors.

9mm Bearings:

for the bowden extruder (included in its build list but basically a requirement for the hypercube)

Hex Screws:

I reordered all the screws to accept a hex screwdriver, because I had two strip out in the frame from repeatedly loosening and tightening them. Removing those stripped screws from the frame in tight spaces was not awesome. I used a backout bit, and then just drilled the head off. I have no issues with hex screws.

In between screw sizes:

Not needed but makes things nicer. some places work with longer screws but look and function better with smaller screws. Having in between sizes like M3x12 and M3x25 and M5x6 help clean things up.

Drill Bits:

you will need to widen some holes, and perhaps make new ones. I lose drill bits often, having extras keeps me from going insane.

File set:

you might forget to turn off supports like I did. if so you will be thankful you have a good file set.

Filament:

One roll is sufficient but if you are like me and have to print other things also, you will need atleast 2. Go straight to PETG, I don't know why people use PLA anymore honestly. Nor I have answered the question of why people print ABS. PETG has been rock solid for me. Also I printed many extra parts so I could experiment with different designs and find what worked best.

Extra Parts:

Hotend parts, thermisters, belts, etc. I knew I might mess up something and I didn't want to be delayed a week because of it. Order multiple parts, split them between different vendors. I purchased one on amazon to get it quick and several on aliexpress to have backups on the way. Everything has arrived now and I've used many of the extra parts to find the right setup. I stopped ordering from banggood, aliexpress shipping was faster on average.

Pipe Cleaners:

they are useful for cleaning long parts that you don't want to scratch. thermal heatbreaks, bushings, etc.

Springs:

I purchased a set of different springs. they are useful for the bed supports and the bowden extruder.

Tweezers:

When dealing with small things it is very, very helpful to have a way to reach in small spaces. I purchased a set with different profiles, so I could grab screws easily. Those sharp tip ones are useless for that. Before those arrived I a pair with flat ends and I bent them to fit the screwhead and that worked so well, that I use that exclusively now.

Calipers:

Because we are working with small differences in sizes. Having these helps diagnose issues.

Socket Set:

The nuts are in tight spaces, you need a socket to reach them. Extensions are probably required as well.

Protractor:

You will want to verify your angles. My eyes play tricks on me. Either it looks correct, but is completely wrong. Or it looks wrong and absolutely correct. The protractor answers that for me.

Tap and Die Set:

Absolutely not necessary, but it helps when you want to make adjustments. You can cut screws to length and repair the threads for a more custom fit.

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to lanesmyname

I built a working HyperCube for $450. There are people who have built the HyperCube for $280. Buying the cheapest power supply, the cheapest extruder, and other parts may give you an unreliable printer. As an example there are E3D extruder clones for $14 but they probably don't work very well. I used quality components and hardware and did not use any parts from my Prusa i3 which I used to print the HyperCube parts. Below are most of my costs for building my HyperCube.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:272257

MeanWell 360W power supply $40
MKS Gen 1.4 controller plus stepper motor drivers $50.
Black aluminum extrusions $70 (save by using silver)
3 stepper motors $40.
Integrated lead screw and stepper $25
E3D clone extruder with spares $35
Heated Bed $25
Display $15
Filament feeder $25 (or print HyperCube design to save)
Lead screws, bearing rods, bearings ~$30
Misc hardware, wire, power cord, brackets, rubber feet, fan, filament, etc.. ~$50

HyperCube 3D Printer

henryarnold for some reason I haven't seen your build before. It is extremely well done, congrats. I also went with the black extrusions, but grey printed parts. I like those corner brackets, the look cleaner than the cast ones. The extruder is the E3D clone, i like it - looks good with the gold on the black. Also that display housing is awesome. I can't mount it low like that though, my kids would mess with it. Oh wow, the last pictures are of the mounting plate at the bottom - I'm sorry but that idea is too awesome. I'm totally using that in my next build :D

Thanks. Although the mounting plate on the bottom has it's advantages, I sometimes think I should have mounted the electronics on the back possibly in a box. I added a Plexiglas shield to keep bits of plastic from falling into the electronics (not shown in photos). The bottom plate has the advantage of compactness and proximity of display, electronics and motors for wiring but the disadvantage of being open to stuff falling into the electronics. Mounting on the rear has the advantage of better protection and possibly a cleaner look but the disadvantage of more wiring up high on the printer. Overall I do like having my printer closed from the bottom by the plate and after adding a plastic cover it looks neat. Either way could be made functional and good looking.

You are correct, I get so much small pieces of plastic on the bottom of my current print surface. I think I am going to make a mounting plate for the back of my current printer to house the electronics. Maybe put a mirror finish on the inside so I can see the back of the print easier.

For those of you, who have 20x20 Extrusions with 5mm Slots: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2150202

nut5 use flat M5 nuts with this in 5mm 20x20 extrusions T-Slots
by mbruehl
Mar 3, 2017 - Modified Mar 3, 2017

Has anyone built one with a 300x300 build platform or bigger? Wondering what length extrusions you used. And did you add a 2nd z motor for the weight of the platform?

I just started mine yes I am planning on two if not three z-axis motors. My cube externally is 600mm x 600mm x 600mm and I am trying to squeeze every mm out of it currently my build plate is only 300mm x 300mm. Might go to multiple smaller build plates not sure. I' knew to this building a 3d printer so do get carried away though :)

i have a 367 x 377 build plate, yes I added a second z axis motor and guide rails. Extrusions are 20" in length each

Mar 19, 2017 - Modified Mar 19, 2017
robb_nl - in reply to mlbuxbaum

Could you be so nice to post details? What did you adjust? Do you use 2 Z stepper motors or use a belt to drive them simultaneously? Any problems with the bed getting some skew?
I am asking since I also want to have a bigger bed than 200x200 (more towards 300x300) And I will add hight so I get a print hight of 500-550mm

I am using dual z axis steppers motors, not belt driven. They seem to stay in sync with each other nicely. I am using a 5mm aluminum build plate. I used that thickness to try and avoid sagging in the center of the build plate, but I still get a slight sag. Just from the sheer size of the plate and the weight of the silicone pad heater attached to the underside of it. I compensated for that little bit of sag by attching a centered cross brace to the build platform frame with a centered machine screw that can be used to slightly push up the center of the build platform. This can be seen here: https://goo.gl/photos/hUWFLAxtRMtutyuRA

My bed is about 280x280. It's a 400mm cube, with 550mm extrusions in height.
And yes, I'm using a 2nd Z motor. However my build isn't finished yet. Doing the wiring and stuff right now and I need to buy an aluminum plate. I measured my bed area by testing how far the hotend nozzle could go in X and Y.

Nice, I'm still trying to decide how big I want to go. Also trying to locate a cheap place to get aluminum extrusions from.

i don't use autoleveling for z axis and it is really hard to control.
if want to change the setting, i need to rotate or move the endstop switch and rotate the bolt with screw driver than put the endstop switch back. while i'm doing that, endstop switch can be movable.

how about place the endstop on the bed frame and place the adjustable bolt on the z axis steel rod?
can anyone make that?

by autoleveling - do you mean "homing"? Because autoleveling is for inductive sensors, and homing is for endstop switches. Autoleveling is where the sensor reads positions on the bed and the software accounts for the bed not being completely perpendicular to the gantry. Homing is when the bed moves itself up to the endstop switch.

I don't use the endstop swtich, but it seems like you are saying that you have to adjust it by moving the swtich to access the screw because the gantry is in the way? Maybe lower the bed first instead?

I don't understand your problem. Are you saying you can't reach the screw with screw driver or something? If so then just adjust it by hand.

Hello everyone, a few people have been asking where to get the anodized aluminium tubing from including myself. So if you live in Australia, the Sydney supplier is Direct Aluminium Pty Ltd. The tubing comes in 3m lengths as shown in Tech2C videos and they will cut to length at $1 per cut or you can save some cash and cut it yourself. My order just arrived and I can vouch that its nice and light, good quality tubing. Hope that helps. >.<

Mar 3, 2017 - Modified Mar 3, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to Sniperdog

Sniperdog, dude! Thanks for this info. [Edit: just called they only ship inside australia]. I have mine working well with 3/8" anodized, but I might order some just to try. I'm using 3/8" anodized and got it to work really well with both bushing and printed bushings. The printed had some play until I printed them oversized. I redesigned the x-carriage so it printed complete with the bushings and it worked really well. Could have shaved some mm's off it too, but that would mean redesigning the xy-joiners as well, and I didn't sign up for that :D

Hello everyone, i need a Quick Tip. My x and y motor makes a loud noise, but dont move in any direction. I have tested the Motors on the Z - Axis Port on the ramps board and it worked. The Current adjustment on the a4988 is Good. I tested with an other Arduino and New a4988 with the Same Results.

Is somthing wrong in the marlin firmware, or is my ramps board demaged?

Sorry for my english...

Thanks for your help.
Best regards

check the jumpers on the ramps under the motor driver.
that was my problem...

Thank you so much. I look on google about jumper setting...1/16 Microstepping== all jumpers must be attached. In my case no jumpers was attached. After attatching the jumpers, the motors does her work.

I had the same problem but for me it was that the voltage was set to 2v

I think its better for you to label the files insted of listing them in the BOM. Im building the d-bot corxy along with this printer. One of my friends says this is a mini dbot. But its easyer when the files have labels

yes, they are labeled. Now I wish he would label his build log videos :D I had to keep jumping around through them to find where he mentioned some obscure thing. But I guess it helps with the ad revenue, hah.

I dont get what you getting at here the files are labelled

I'm confused with the supplied configuration_with_sensor.h - under the auto bed leveling section, all three of the leveling options are commented out like this:
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
Does Tech2C use auto bed leveling or just use his probe for a z end stop?!

Tech2C doesn't use auto bed levelling as of yet. Take a look at the reprap forums for help with anything non-hypercube specific.

Okay, thanks for the reply. Is there any reason in particular that you don't use it?

I'll have a tinker with it once I've got the probe installed.

The aluminum bed I own is fairly flat. I find once I've levelled the bed using the knobs it stays level. The major benefit of auto leveling would be for non-flat beds that can take advantage of the new mesh bed levelling feature.

Ah right I see. Thanks for your help and your awesome design!

hey. guys!
now i'm using carbon fiber tubing for x axis with igus bushing.
it's now lighter than aluminum tube and looks better for high speed printing.

i want to recommend using carbon fiber tube if you cannot get aluminum tube.
but, don't use copper bushing with carbon fiber tube.

and one more thing about igus bushing...
i tried to buy from ebay and aliexpress, but they were too expensive.
so i ordered from igus website and that costs less than $10 including shipping for 8 igus bushings.

You have any link to suppliers of carbon fiber tubes? (preferably in the Netherlands, Belgium or EU)

I purchased 2 lengths of carbon tubing from ebay last week. When it gets here I'll test it out too.
I went with matte, as I have other tubes of gloss and matte here, which I find the matte to have lower friction when sliding fingers across the surface.

It should be a drop in replacement for me as I'm already using igus bushings :P

Mar 3, 2017 - Modified Mar 3, 2017
fruityoat - in reply to Tech2C

Would love to hear your feedback. I'm tossing up between Al and CF, as I can get them for around the same price. My concern with the matte rods was that they are usually pultruded, meaning all the fibers are longitudinal, making me doubtful of the rigidity.

I might try 2x 3K-8mm-x-10mm-x-500mm-Roll-Wrapped-Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Boom-for-Multicopter from bangood.

there's already one who is using carbon tubing in latest on made section.

one more thing...
if you buy carbon fiber tubing, consistency of out diameter will not guaranteed.
one of mine was little thicker so bushing was not moving freely.
so i filed with sand paper.

did you buy gloss or matte? I like the gloss, but I'm thinking the matte will be more consistent since it's filed down.

i think matte looks better.
i just buy the cheapest one, so i didn't care about that

Mar 2, 2017 - Modified Mar 2, 2017
bakmibaso - in reply to quickbike

i bought gloss but it became matte after i filed it.
so, one tube is gloss and the other tube is matted now.
well, it works anyway.
i think i should see what will happened after long term use.

Thanks, dude, I'm going to go with matte and let you know how it turns out.

Also, which bushings did you purchase? Are you using 10mm carbon tubes?

Thanks, again!

There is an igus test report on carbon fibre tube showing that the J260 has the least wear with 0.53 µm/km.

http://www.igus.dk/wpck/10568/carbonfibertest?C=DK&L=da

igus bushing: jsm-1012-20
carbon tubing: 10mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter

you rock dude, thanks

Did you have to modify the bracket to hold the IGUS bushings? If so, do you have a file to share?

Thanks, I was looking into this!

i bought jsm-1012-20 which size is same as copper bushing i used, so i am using same brackets.

Comments deleted.

I am gathering the parts to build one of the Hypercube 3D printers. I'm using a Prusa i3 style printer and PLA for the plastic. I only have a few months experience printing parts. I'm only to the good / consistent stage ... wish the finish looked better.
I'm trying to print the 'XY_Clamp_v1.1.stl' I have tried two orientations but the overhangs look more like bird nests. Should I be using supports?
One direction under the arch flip it over and I have issues at the screw holes.

Mar 1, 2017 - Modified Mar 1, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to alan2smith

Yes, use supports for overhangs and if you print with PLA, you should turn on the filament cooling fan if you have one.

Check your local scrap yards. Got 3 3/8" 3ft linear rods for 5 dollars!!!

My stepper motors cannot plug into the ramps board, the connections are just wires. What should I do

https://goo.gl/photos/ZDHj7brZsDB3rogA6

I am still having issues with this build.1) I cannot get my retraction settings dialed in and thus I get weird prints. 2)The infill doesn't print properly( see photo) and 3) The print quality is just terrible. I need to get this printer dialed in. My boss is getting pissed. I spent quite a bit of money on this build and have only printed a few things that were acceptable. If someone has a firmware configuration that works great, I would greatly appreciate some help. I calibrated my extrusion this morning but it still seems to be under extruding. I'm so frustrated......I can share all my settings with you if need be. I use S3D.

Print a 3DBenchy and share some picture of it.
List up all your stuff/parts/gear and the Marlin settings.

changed my setting to what tomalvarez suggested below and WOW. I am printing a 3DBenchy now at 200% scale with no supports and it is looking great !!! I do have some minor stringing issues and top layer quality is not perfect but I am amazed.

https://goo.gl/photos/hUWFLAxtRMtutyuRA

I struggled for a while with this for the last few days - it's been printing since Saturday. I use Cura, but I had to monkey with retraction and extrusion settings. Here's what I've got:

In Marlin, I changed the Extrusion to 138.

From this:

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 100 }

To

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 138 }

Then, in Cura, my slicer, I changed the retraction distance to 2mm from the default 6.7mm. I also lowered my retraction speed to 25mm. I experienced a lot of skipping with the extruder motor, which was effecting extrusion. I had prints that would start well, then choke hard. I got the extruder steps ballpark number from Tech2c, as in one of the videos he enters 135 for the extruder. I calibrated my extruder, but the under-extrusion remained.

The only thing after getting the extrusion down is the print distance from the bed. I got that mostly dialed in. Start with half-turns working your way down to 1/8 turn or less to get it solid. Once it's tight, you shouldn't have much issue.

I hope this helps!

Mar 1, 2017 - Modified Mar 1, 2017
mlbuxbaum - in reply to AllCity-Maker

i changed the steps and it started printing MUCH better. Was still having some issues with infill and supports on the benchy model. Changed retraction settings lower and wow, much better !! Infill is still spotty or stringy......I'll add the pictures to the shared album listed above (last photo)

Yeah, I printed a lot of test cubes, working my way up in steps: 100, 115, 125, 135, settling at 138. My infill was also terrible, initially. I've discovered some issues with supports, but I'll deal with that later.

Good luck!

i changed that setting and will now print a benchy to see what happens.......fingers and toes crossed

I am also using S3D. I have posted my settings here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2033892

I am using a E3D V6 Clone. Everything else is stock. Is it possible that your extruder feed is not working smoothly? I've noticed that with my printer running correctly, I can put my fingers on the filament going into the feeder and feel it moving in and out consistently. It moves in as it is feeding filament and the out is the retraction. When my nozzle was clogged, I could feel it failing to feed properly. Also with the feed disengaged you should be able to hand feed the filament and feel and see it smoothly come out of the nozzle.

Simplify 3D Configuration Files for HyperCube/CoreXY

for everyone interested, banggood has the angle corners on sale (last day today).
around 2 $ for 10 !!! http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-20x20mm-Aluminium-Corner-Joint-Right-Angle-Bracket-Furniture-Fittings-p-1056722.html?rmmds=search
i have ordered 4 packs.

Feb 28, 2017 - Modified Feb 28, 2017
WhiteRenard - in reply to brooti1988

They've been on sale for the past 2-3 months. It's a marketing trick. You'll be thinking "Oh it's on sale and only 1 day left, I gotta buy them quickly!".
Then the sale is renewed the next day. lol

Feb 28, 2017 - Modified Feb 28, 2017

Hi,

Has anyone made a part fan that is long enough to work with a volcano hot end?

Thank you

[ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.
Connecting...
[ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.
Connecting...
[ERROR] Could not connect to COM4 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM4: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.

any tips
?

You likely have to set the baudrate to 250000

in marlin the baudrate default #define BAUDRATE 250000 match that

drivers they installed? type of controller you using is it RAMPS? cloned arduino? then look here http://www.microcontrols.org/arduino-uno-clone-ch340-ch341-chipset-usb-drivers/

How do I download pronterface. I have it downloaded but how do I get the actual program

you have to decompress the rar, but I used repetier because it is what I use for my other printer.

I have downloaded all files but after closing it and try to open it it says loadlibrary(pythonIII) failed

How do you add configuration h to Arduino? thanks

that is in one of the build logs. use the arduino software.

Hello is it possible for the Hypercube to be built with 2 z-axis motors. If so what extra parts do I need to print and what extra parts do I need to order. Thanks, I am trying to build by hypercube with 2 extruders (check remixes for the files) and 2 z-axis motors.

There are makes of this printer where people have already done it with 2 z-axis motors. Just look over there

Does anyone know how to reverse X and Y axis from the configuration file ?
When I move the Y axis from repetier, the carriage is moving along the 10 mm rods .
When I move the X axis from repetier, the carriage is moving along the 8 mm (from the back of the printer to the front where the steppers are).
Also can anybody tell, for an 45 deg infill set up, so only 1 stepper is used for infill, when the left stepper is used, the carriage is vibrating, when the right stepper is used, the carriage is not vibrating . The belt on the left seems to be tighter than the one on the right, is this a possible cause ?
Other causes ?

I warn everyone attempting to dismantle its prusa i3 printer to build this one, that the X carriage has mounting holes for the hotend that are not those that can be found on prusa i3 rework. It's not a design issue, just be warned to print every piece

Do you think it is enough to support a 300x200 heatbed on the long side (with 10mm rods) or would it be better to support it on both short sides?

There's a remix with 300x200 bed... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2075651

HyperCube 3D printer (2525 Aluminum)

Yeah, I've saw this remix already.
I asked because I don't really like the look of this remix because the Y-axis is rotated by 90° and your front is actually the side. Also you need more extrusion, two more linear shafts and one more stepper too.

Where is the 2020 aluminum from? The stuff I got has an opening of 5.25mm and the hammer nuts need 6mm.

Yeah I think there needs to be an asterisk on the extrusion. I also ordered the wrong one from 80/20. I reordered from misumi. The link that kingkull posted is really helpful. https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302285350/?Inch=0

order it precut. I would have done this had I know about it before hand. I got the black, btw. It is super nice. Looks more professional to me.

There are 2020 Slot 5 and 2020 Slot 6, you need Slot 6 for this kind of hammer nuts.

Tech2C should update the BOM.

Updated.

I agree. It would be helpful if Tech2C would add a note to the BOM to make sure to order the slot 6 type 2020 extrusion. It has been mentioned multiple times in these comments but people don't look through all the comments.

Feb 26, 2017 - Modified Feb 27, 2017

Please could someone help me how to invert only X axis? I have tried all plugging combinations but nothing worked.

Feb 26, 2017 - Modified Feb 26, 2017
FunkyDiver - in reply to s3rkan

Changing the plug wiring won't do anything with a Core XY printer... you need to do it in the Marlin config

Feb 27, 2017 - Modified Feb 27, 2017
s3rkan - in reply to FunkyDiver

I exactly need that config. This is the way I did last night:

I moved the X Endstop to the other side. Removed the XMIN endstop plug and plugged it to the XMAX endstop pins. From the marlin, I changed these codes:

define USE_XMIN_PLUG --> Comment this

//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG --> Uncomment this

define X_HOME_DIR -1 --> Change -1 to 1

Now my X axis is as it should be. But I wonder if any other easier way exists.

define X_HOME_DIR -1 --> Change -1 to 1

That's the line that changed the direction for you :)

Feb 26, 2017 - Modified Feb 26, 2017

Hi. Where we are using the F608ZZ bearing ? and How many we need it ?

You need only one for the extruder cold end ... optionally another one for the top of the Z screw, and optionally for the spool support I think 4 are needed .

I suppose you have to go through the whole series of YouTube video, to understand such detail. About the quantity it is specified in the BOM, under Things Details.

Yes, that is a good idea. The video series also includes changes Tech2c made during the build process and explains why he made the changes. The video series will give you a good understanding of how to assemble it and why he made some of the changes during his original build process. It is because of the video series that I decided to build the HyperCube over the others I looked at.

one for lead screw support and 4 for (optional) spool holder

also the lead screw support is only if you are using the spring coupler. it is not needed if using an integrated leadscrew. I bought a bunch of those bearings.. haven't used any yet.

Hi guys, cant seem to get my z probe to work, any ideas? i am on mac and are using arduino 1.8.0 and i think i am using marlin mc8.
thanks

Which type of probe did you get? You might need to do some additional investigation/alteration to make sure your setup is supplying it enough power.

i am using a NPN probe with the resistors, and it is running straight off 12v supply and a single signal wire. the current software has very different bed leveling and probe settings to that tech2c used. and lastly i am using a robo 3d board which only varies a little bit to a standard ramps board. to note the sensor does triggers and reads correctly.

Feb 25, 2017 - Modified Feb 25, 2017

I am printing this project with printed extrusions for the frame Printing in 200mm segments and 5mm threaded rod to join the pieces together to get the different lengths So far it feels strong enough to work I print it sitting stright up with 10mm brim, prints very well

i am also printing out 20/20 series extrusions just couldn't find that file but there are a lot of extrusion files just have to look

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1195045

15 Series T-Slot Aluminum Extrusion Model

I demand updates on this. :D I also have reservations about the strength, specifically when trying to tighten things down to the walls of the slots. I've cracked many plastic pieces trying to tighten them down to much.

You could increase the rigidity by threading a rod down the center tube.

Wow! That's ambitious. I'm sure I'm not alone in having reservations as to it's strength.
But, I sincerely hope you prove me wrong.
I wish you all the best with your endeavour.

Anyone had any luck sourcing these in the US: 2 x 10mmx360mm Anodised Aluminium Rod/Tube for X axis?

Would stell/stainless steel be a suitable alternative? Looking into misumi atm.

Thanks in advance

Look at CJ01's mod (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1949670) for using 3/8" anodized tube or solid rod. He even includes links for sources @ McMaster-Carr and Lowe's. I just ordered anodized tubing and bronze bushings from MCM yesterday. Should be here in a few days.

X Carriage Mod for 3/8" Rod and Bearing for HyperCube 3D Printer
by CJ01

i went down that route and already got my parts from mcmaster :) thanks!

Nice, good news. If I hadn't found that mod, I'm not sure I would have wanted to build this. Now I'm ordering parts right and left :) Good luck with your build!

I am using steel rod for x axis..and it works but too heavy for high speed printing.
I am working on using 10mm carbon fiber tube with igus bushing.
Or you can use 8mm steel rod to reduce weight with remixed xy joiner and inner 8mm, outer 12mm bronze bushings.

Wouldn't delamination be a concern when using CF?

well, i think that wouldn't be problem because i'm using igus bushing.

Not that I know of, there is a remix of the XY joiners and X carriage that will allow using 3/8"inch aluminum tubing for the X axis. Anodized 3/8" aluminum tube is available from McMaster-Carr, https://www.mcmaster.com/#4568T12 for $10.56 for a 6 foot length. I am going with this tube and the remix by CJ01 shown here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1949670 .

X Carriage Mod for 3/8" Rod and Bearing for HyperCube 3D Printer
by CJ01

How is your build coming along PapaJohn88? I'm (hopefully) finishing mine tomorrow. Got some friends coming by to lend a hand. Printing out the modded x carriage now. I got different bearings and i have been having trouble getting them to not bind when I fit them in the sleeve. Because they don't perfectly align inside when I press them in. trying different things to see what will work. Also reached out to a bearing manufacturer to get their opinion and order a bunch of different bushings/bearings to try out. Waiting on the quote, but the guy didn't seem to happy with quoting out 20 different items..haha.

webguy204 my build is still in the planning stages, I hope to begin ordering material sometime in March. I need to finish some upgrades to my Anet A8 so I can start printing the parts and perhaps make some money through 3D hubs.

ahh.. I thought you and I were building at the same time. I didn't do any upgrades to my A6 - it is basically stock - added a belt tensioner. It has done really well. Oh I had to fix the connectors on the heated bed, they almost let the magic smoke out.

That's pretty solid advice. Thank you linking me to the remix, I appreciate it.

FYI: Misumi carries stainless steel rods but they're 30+$ per each 360mm, in case anyone was wondering.

my printer will do some really weird stuff when trying to print from SD card. It will go to spots and print a line where nothing is supposed to be printed and other weird things? Any suggestions as to a possible cause or solution?

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 24, 2017
jinx - in reply to mlbuxbaum

you using slicer? have you checked the gcode file for corruption. you seeing stuff like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofvfxJFt4fA
is it the same model or all ?

I use Simplify3D

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 24, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to mlbuxbaum

I also use Simplify3D. I haven't seen problems like you describe but I don't print from the SD card. Try printing the same object from your computer.
SPI_SPEED

that's what I did, and the print was perfect. I'm baffled

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 26, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to mlbuxbaum

You may be getting a corruption during the reads of the SD card. There are Marlin options to slow down the SPI transfer rate. You might try one of the slower speeds.
SPI_SPEED

Friends, ever thought about the possibility of using carbon tube? It have enough strength, you only need to know if he does not wear as friction bushings. Please share your opinion. Thank you.

You would need to find a suitable material to use as bushes. The bronze ones will scrape the outer coating off, then dig into the fibre itself. You'd be looking at having to make some PTFE bearings at best.

Because I had trouble with my bearings on the anodized aluminum, I printed out some igus type bushings and they worked really well. I printed them a little longer to reduce slop and I was surprised at how well they performed. Seems like it could be a possibility to print your own bushings for the cf tubes. I'm willing to try it, I've printed 3 full xy gantrys with different rods/bushings so I can try them out. I can do one more :D

I'm right in the middle of upgrading my MendelMax 2.5 to a Hypercube and I found a missing detail in the BOM, that can cause quite some frustration for other folks:

I assumed that the Aluminium extrusion for the Frame is a 2020 type 5 (like for the MendelMax) - but you need a type 6 for the hammer nuts in the BOM! The difference is the width of the groove.

Yes, I could have seen the technical drawing for the Hammer nuts, my fault. Just add the groove with to the BOM and noone else might make the same mistake ;) M5 slide-in-nuts for Type 5 /are/ a available btw, but you can't buy them on banggood :/

yes, I had the same issue, I ordered the wrong extrusion from 80/20. had to reorder misumi. You didn't find any drop-in nuts for the type-5 did you? I couldn't find any. Thought I might build a second printer with the type-5 and m4 screws - if I could find dropins that would work. Or something. Otherwise I might use it with slide-in nuts, but that will be a pita - if not impossible.

Does somebody know the wiring for the ramps board. What wires and where? Thanks

Search engines are your friend ;)

great answer, I second you. One should not start such a project without ever knowing a bit of printers basics..

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 24, 2017

Hi all! I'm really worried about overbuying. Is the following true? For a X320 x Y300 bed and Z300mm I would increase the X by 120, Y by 100, and, the Z by 145? In reference to the rods and extrusions only? Is it this obvious?

you seen Funkydaves calc yet? http://funkydiver.com/hypercube-materials

That's a really nice idea, makes it much easier to find out how much 2020 you need.

Funky Diver ;)

lol i just clicked it Diver and not "dave" sorry bud

No worries mate :D It's Rich btw ;) :D

That's a nice price of work, thanks.

You're welcome, I hope it helped out

what screw do you use to connect the xy motor mount to the motor?

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 24, 2017
clogs - in reply to xd00z1

M3x10 should be ok,if screws bottoms out,you need shorter ones.

Why are the bowden stuff in the "useful extras" section? Aren't they necessary for the printer to actually function? It makes no sense to me or am I missing something here?

Feb 23, 2017 - Modified Feb 23, 2017
FunkyDiver - in reply to Fubar_1

Probably because you may not necessarily need to print the Bowden stuff if you already have that setup on your existing printer. Saves getting confusing for folks just doing an upgrade :)

Yet most of the bowden parts are on the BOM....I can't understand why the plastic parts are not included as well so you'd have everything you need for a working printer.

If you need the Bowden parts, then buy them. If not, then don't. The guide kinda assumes you alreay have a printer as it's an Upgrade route (as given by the first line in the description), if you're struggling to decide what you need it might be more prudent to ask. If you know which parts you do and don't need... what's the issue?

Anyone able to adjust this fan duct to fit the Hypercube V6 mount.
Cheers

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2106004

Wanhao i3 E3D v6 Bowden Duct & Cooler

Other sources of stepper motors? I see some other Chinese stepper motors on Ebay that seem to have the same specs for a couple of dollars cheaper. Normally $2-$3 wouldn't make a difference to me but if there are other sources and the same quality.... it doesn't hurt to check around.

Do the screws have to be button head? The Ebay seller is out of the 60ct listed in the BOM. I can get a 100 pack from Amazon for almost the same price as a 40 and 25 pack from Ebay but they are Head Cap screws not button head.

For the M5x6? Those should be ok, but could be a nuisance because the area in the corner brackets is not that spacious. Doing one screw at a time should be fine, but you may find them bumping up against each other on occasion. I used head cap screws for M3x10's and they worked out well there.

I ended up needing more screws because I stripped some, so I ordered from a bulk manufacturer and it didn't cost much more and they showed up in 5 days. This time I choose to get all torx screws, to make stripping them a little harder to do. Though I'll still try.

the button head look better and sleek but you get away with just about any type

If anyone finds it useful, I've created a materials calculator for custom sized Hypercube builds using the details supplied by Tech2C. You can find it here - http://funkydiver.com/links/hypercube-materials

It should be straight forward enough to figure out, but any issues give me a shout :)

excellent, thx! I'll build a Mini HyperCube with 120x120 bed which I already have.
Much easier to calculate the 2020 size.

Wow! That's awesome. It will be very handy when I finally get time to start my HyperCube.
Just a couple of small suggestions/questions; How much room will your calculator allow under the base rails, ie to situate the PSU and electronics under the printer?
Would it be possible to include a graphic representation of the frame with the entered dimension?

Added the option to include space underneath ;)

Wow! That was fast. Thats fantastic, thank you.
Love the new background colour too.

We aim to please lol.

I'm working on a few more iterations of it too to account for build platform size (2 lead screws needed?) and height stability.

Thats awesome. I plan to build mine with a bigger bed, and dual Z lead screws so that will help me for sure. And a lot of others too.
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
It might be a good idea to create a remix of the HyperCube for your calculator. I'm thinking that it might help to get it viewed by those that need it.
Just realised you're in the UK too.
Keep up the great work

Comments deleted.

Do I have to use bronze bushings for the x carriage or can I use regular lm10uu bearings? Thanks

lm10uu bearings r too big to use.
i'm using with bronze bearing.
i think you can use igus bearing instead

you can use bearings with steel rods, but not with aluminum. they will run grooves into the shaft pretty quick.

I'm running into an issue where a pronterface command to move the X carriage left or right yields some forward or backward motion in the Y axis. This doesn't always happen, but often enough. Any ideas what might cause that? I've tried Google and haven't come up with much, perhaps I don't know the right terms with which to search. Thanks in advance!

CoreXY system require each motor to hold its position and not have one win. If both motor current is not set the same one motor could cause movement in the other thus resulting in undesired movement in the actual carriage.

I'll check my stepper drivers! Thanks!

Can anyone remix the fan duct to reach about 10mm lower? Right now it's blowing directly on my heater block..

It's fixed now Ralph. Hope it helps.

Here you go mate, hope it helps. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2125316
Let me know how it goes.

HyperCube Fan Duct - Extended
by SpikeUK

if anyone wants to the buy the full frame precut minus the lead screws and rods i found this site where you can have it configured to the exact size https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302285350/?Inch=0

There's a similar company in Germany that also ships Europe wide and to UK. Make sure and choose B type slot 6 http://www.motedis.co.uk/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-B-Type-slot-6/Profile-20x20-B-type-slot-6::999991.html

I should mention, it's also a lot cheaper than 3D printer shops specialising in the material.

Feb 22, 2017 - Modified Feb 22, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to kingkuul

thats a great link, thanks! my aching arms do not want to cut aluminum with a hacksaw again :D

youre welcome i figured to share it because i thought other people maybe not want to cut it themselves i know i dont .. nor do i have the space to it in

Can I use 2525 t-slot instead?

You'd have to modify the files. There might be remix for 2525 already, check it out.

There is a 2525 remix here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2075651 it appears to contain only the parts that need to change when using 2525 extrusions. It has some other changes too.

HyperCube 3D printer (2525 Aluminum)

where did you get the rods for the x carriage ?

Feb 22, 2017 - Modified Feb 23, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to kingkuul

[EDIT] +3 days since last post. Contacted supplier, sent a picture and they sent out a replacement the same day. Service is good, I'll give them that. Javier if you are reading this, thanks. But seriously, just accidentally run that 10mm anodized profile so you have some stock we can purchase. :)

[EDIT] I am going to leave the link, but update this post. the rod I got was way off. The diameter was .12-.15mm too small. I do not recommend this place for anodized aluminum rods. I'm going to try to make them usable with the offset trick tech2c did. But .2-.3mm is a bit much.

if you are in the states as I am, you may be unable to find 10mm. I went with 3/8" anodized, which is 9.525mm. I haven't received it yet arrives tomorrow, so I don't know the quality/tolerance, but I ordered it from http://www.orangealuminum.com/bar-stock/round-tubes.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiA2uDEBRDxurOO77Cp-7kBEiQAOUgKV6aOofdA6mZ1BN5-ndxRnZeicSm8lHZ86sPY4rmaRU4aAk528P8HAQ. Also ordered some brass buntings for 3/8" from amazon.

if you cant find anodized aluminum, solid bearing steel works just as well

"just as well" isn't accurate right? The steel rods will be heavier and will reduce the accuracy of the printer at higher speeds.

"just as well" means exactly the same. Ive been printing with them for a month, it works perfectly at 180mm/s I do the majority of my printing at. Please dont assume things when you have tried it.

Appreciate the reply, not sure the tone was needed though. I am going on my experience with my current printer, and what tech2c said in a couple of the build logs, and other have reiterated in this comment section. I tried to emphasis that I was asking a question and not accusing you of lying, but I guess that was lost in translation. If you are indeed getting 180mm/s with the steel rods that is awesome and something i might explore because the anodized frustrations are real.

never mind i think i figured it out heres a link to the rods i dont think they are Anodized though but maybe if you contact them through email to have it maybe [ i just like this everything comes precut ;) ] https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302674550/?

Webguy thank you for link i will look into as well let me know how they work also my link up above has hollow tubes at 10m diameter although i think its steel i cant find where it says the material is

I just received my anodized aluminum rod. the tolerance is terrible. it is about .2mm off, but if I measure it from the other side it is .15mm to large. So it is, in fact, an oval. arghhh.. So the bushings will not fit, unless I make them into an oval also..lol. Also the fedex bent the rod about 20 degrees in the middle. I guess so it would fit in the truck better.

Ah,finally get to see your finished product.Hypercube looks sturdy,clean and portable. AWESOME :)
Glad you went back to white printed parts, sleek!

Is it true that the MK3 300x200mm heatbeds do not get warm enough to print in ABS? I have a cruel doubt. I increased the printing area and also wanted to increase the table to 300x200mm. Actually, I'm merging two printers: HyperCube and D-BOT. I have all the components of D-BOT, like: relay, source. Could you help me with a decision? I am very interested in having a more spacious table and being able to print in ABS without major problems. Thank you very much. (Google Translator)

I doubt it could reach ABS temperatures. With 12v it hardly reaches 45.

I have a mk3 working with 24v and I cannot reach more than 75 degrees... works for pla and petg, didn't try with abs yet...

Feb 18, 2017 - Modified Feb 18, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to lhsistemas

I have a 275 mm x 220 mm heated bed which I use at 85-90C I haven't tried 100C but I think it could make it. My power supply is 12V 360W. You might consider 24V which makes it easier to reach higher temperatures.

the 12v 200x200 PCB bonded to aluminium from my wanhao gets to 100 on 12v , its takes an age to get there however.

WIll be upgrading to a 240v silicone heater and a super thick alu bed at some point

Feb 23, 2017 - Modified Feb 23, 2017
FunkyDiver - in reply to henryarnold

Or indeed go down the Solid State Relay route and hit the bed with 110 / 230 volts, depending of course on the power in your Country. More info here https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_a_bed_heater

This may have already been asked or covered somewhere else. What software do you use to design your parts? I have done lots of 2D CAD designs over the last 40 years but never got into 3D until now. I have been playing with several different 3D design programs and am looking for advice on which one to use. I need to settle on one and then spend a few weeks learning the basics so I can design my own parts.

fusion360 is the one I picked up for 3d printing because I mostly do measured parts, its sketch mode is great. I don't know how it compares to the other programs but it is pretty straight forward to me.

Blender awesome program advanced as hell with a steep learning curve, but well worth learning in the 3DP world, sketchup make has a softer curve easily imports/exports stl formats...
https://i.materialise.com/blog/top-25-most-popular-3d-modeling-design-software-for-3d-printing/

is anyone selling the required printed parts in PETG or has anyone used shapeways to print them who wouldn't mind sharing an estimate of the cost?

thanks in advance :)

I'll be purchasing the printed parts directly from Tech2C himself! Thank you all

i could do parts in PLA for about £40 "fila and postage

Would you suggest PLA instead of PETG / ABS even for motor mounts and XY idlers?
Do you have an experience in owning an hypercube with parts in PLA?

No criticisms here, just wondering if it is worth the effort to became crazy and print parts in PETG or I can go with PLA! :-)))

PLA is super rigid, works real well for the motor mounts

PLA works just fine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lzlf4Vsns2c PETG or ABS do just as well thou PET expensive and ABS a touchy Bitch to use without a heat chamber.

Feb 18, 2017 - Modified Feb 18, 2017
pivan - in reply to antpgomes

Hi, the full job is about 26h of print on an average prusa i3 printer, so do not expect anything really cheap.

26h is a rough estimate if everything is fine... I'm trying with PETG (not going to sell parts, at least not soon :-) ) and I'm experiencing issues with the very firs piece, the XY idler.. with fan it is fragile, without it is a mess... all day printing and got nothing useful so far :)

Try with a local makerspace, a fablab..

Technically no one should be selling these parts since Tech2C put a non-commercial license on it. If Tech2C approves for me to sell you a set, I'd be willing to print these for you in PETG :D

Fair point, didn't even occured to me to look at the license before asking the community

I just sent him a message asking if he's selling the printed kits directly. I'll wait to hear back. Thanks :)

SPAMSPAMSPAMSPAMSPAM

As soon as I start tightening the XY Clamp on any side, X axis gets skewed. Everything moves very smoothly on both axis even when skewed.
If I loosen the XY Clamp I can fix the X axis again.
I also loosened the Y shaft clamps with the printer inverted, so the can sit naturally and the X axis still gets skewed as soon as I start tightening the XY Clamp.

Feb 17, 2017 - Modified Feb 17, 2017
henryarnold - in reply to WhiteRenard

My friend and I installed our belts on both of our HyperCube printers by one of us holding the X carriage against the rear of the printer while the other tightened the belts. We both were able to get our carriages square and the belts tight. I suppose you could clamp the carriage in place and then install the belts.

I haven't installed belts yet. Was your X axis skewed before installing belts?

once the belts installed push on each of them you see the yx joiner move slightly, now if one was inclined they could make a widget which could tweak those position, but really after 20 min of adjust those belts it be fine.

My x carriage was 3mm off before tensioning my belts. I found that sliding the carriage all the way to the back(butted up against the end with the z rods and leadscrew) and tensioning then sliding it back and forth a few times and then checking to make sure the x/y joiners both contact the edges at the same time was the best method. It took a few tries before I had it perfect. Good luck.

Yeah, I played around with it a little bit and got the gap to 2-3 mm then made it even with the belts.

Awesome! I'm cleaning up my wiring tonight then installing my e3d and heatbed. Hopefully printing before tuesday. Glad you got your skew sorted.

Nice, looking forward to your make :D
I'm cutting extrusions for my bed next.

No, it was square. Installing the belts tends to pull on the carriage if the tension is not even. I misunderstood what your problem was. You axis should be square before and after installing the belts.

hi guys.
i have a question.
my hypercube works fine, but there's some vibration of bed while i print.
i think it's because i use 10mm smooth steel rod instead of alu tube.

i think if i add additional steel rods for z axis will reduce the vibration of the bed.
how about that?

I dont think its because of solid rods instead of alu tube. I use solid bearing steel and it works fine. How is it making your bed vibrate? They arent connected. The vibration youre seeing in your prints is from too high accelleration on X/Y

I gave up trying to find anodized/anodised aluminum with a 10mm outside diameter so I've decided to try the existing bearings with regular 10mm aluminum, if I can find that. I also ordered bunting bearings for a 3/8" tube and some 3/8 clear anodized aluminum tube. Probably end up going with that, otherwise all the hassle was for nothing. Unless there is someone outside of north america willing to stock up and supply us metrically deficient americans.

Also being in North America, may I ask where you found the 3/8" clear anodized tube? Also what wall thickness does it have? I have found 6061 T6 10mm OD 5.2mm ID on ebay however it is not anodized.

http://www.orangealuminum.com/bar-stock/round-tubes.html

purchased it here. got the 3/8" x 9/64" with a wall thickness of 3/32" - which equals 2.38mm.

Thank you webguy024, I checked them out and will be ordering some 3/8" x 9/64" tubing from them. Has anyone redone the xy joiners and the x carriage for the 3/8" tubing and the appropriate bearings? My 3D cad skills are seriously lacking right now, I am trying to learn it. What bearings are you planning on using with the 3/8" tubing?

Feb 22, 2017 - Modified Feb 22, 2017
webguy024 - in reply to PapaJohn88

I jumped the gun on this post. I think one of the ends got crushed or something during shipping. One end is smashed to that shitty tolerance, but the other end is not as bad. .12-.15mm smaller than it should be. But if fits in the bushing and slides nice. Definitely to much play though. so while it will work it is not optimal. Going to attempt to score something with a better tolerance probably from some helpful person in these comments :D

There is already remix for 3/8 just check the remix section .

Thanks, I found it in the remix section. I will be building mine with build plate if 220 x 270 and a build height of 230. I am going to use as much as I can from my Anet A8. I will be building with X=270, Y=220 and Z=230.

I am not planing to stock up, but if it helps i can order, repackage and forward it to you from germany.
But accumulated costs would be about 20-25$ for tube (1m) or 30-35$ for precision rods (2x36cm) + some chocolate for my time :)

Hi Antibyte. Still interested in that chocolate?

Thanks antibyte. Surprised you want chocolate from Florida.. maybe you just want to try bad chocolate? lol. I'm going to try what I have ordered, I think the 3/8 is going to work out ok it is a little smaller than the 10mm. I paid around the same amount as your offer, because shipping was 2x the price of the item from california. I saw a remix for 3/8" rod and I can remix it if I need to.

Also if you still want chocolate, I'd be happy to send you some :)

Feb 15, 2017 - Modified Feb 15, 2017
hypercube: mgn12 Z axis
by jinx

Who can help me have problems with my corexy replica with the steper are y on the ramps is a twisted but when I select the center from the x steller to the right edge homing x and y are correct only change endstop ymax is like left rear Xmin is also in the back left to help me no more.

My 90 degree brackets for the 2020 aluminum extrusions does not yield a 90 degree angle when screwed in place. Has any one ran across this problem and figured out a solution?

Don,t tighten the nuts completely until you have a square frame.Then tighten opposite corners,and it should straighten out.

Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 13, 2017

Hi there guys.! My printer is finished and ready to print, but I'm facing with an issue that I didn't predicted. When the carriage is moving, there's a tiny play on the X carriage that makes the nozzle to get lifted or lowered depending on where it is. I mean, when it's moving, there are the cables and tube for the filament hanging there and that little amount of drag is sufficient to make it unstable. I think I overestimated the aluminium tube because it may not have the ridgidiness to handle the forces involved. I might have to change the rods and bearings to 8mm. Have any of you faced with this? Any suggestions?

you got a vid of it in motion , are the bearing sleeves a snug fit on the tube?. and maybe add more length to the cabling so it aint forcing the hotend mount up! hard to say without seeing , thou this was a problem early on with tech2c, but it also happens if folks are passing the cabling where the print fan should go. if this is just a cabling issue and bowden cube hanging switching to 8 mm bar may not solve it either there can be play in those lmu88 bearing.

have anyone tried carbon pipe for the x axis instead of alu pipe?
i'm using 10mm steel smooth rod for x axis because i cannot find the perfectly straight alu pipe.
the problem is it's too heavy for the high speed printing.

what do you guys think about using carbon pipe which outer diameter is 10mm and inner diameter is 8mm?

I had the same thought as I just received some 10mm carbon tube for a 3D printed RC airplane I'm building. The carbon is much stiffer than aluminum while also being lighter. It turns out Igus sells carbon fiber shafts and has done testing of their bearings with carbon. See the link for more info.

I should receive all of my aluminum extrusion to build a Hypercube in a few weeks, and I plan to try carbon tubes for the X axis. My initial plan is to print Igus style bushings out of PETG, but I may need to experiment.

http://www.igus.eu/wpck/10568/carbonfibertest?C=DE&L=en

i just bought igus bushing (jsm 1012) and 10mm carbon pipe.
there's a problem that.... carbon pipe is not to be made for the moving part like steel rod...
so the thickness is not exactly same in whole length.

It probably depends on where you buy the tube, and what type of tube you buy. I measured the pultrusion tube I received, and while it is undersized (0.369"), it does appear to be very consistent. Every place I measured was within .001". That should be sufficiently accurate for the plastic bushings I plan to use.

i bought it from aliexpress.....one of th cheapest seller..
i'm modifying with sand paper carefully, and it's getting better.

Hi. I have been experimenting with printed bushing. Most materials have a strong stick-slip effect and therefore less useable for bushings. But for obvious reasons carbon filled PLA works very well. My current Prusa is successfully running on carbon filled PLA bushings.
You might also consider to get the Iglidur filament from igus, specially developed for bearings, to print your bushings.
Success

Thanks for the info. Are you using Proto-Pasta, or a different brand of carbon PLA? The Igus material is a little too expensive for me so I probably won't go down that path unless absolutely necessary.

I am using a local Dutch brand. I had the same feeling about the Igus stuff. Although lately I saw it on a German Web shop for about half the price I pay over here.
https://www.3dmensionals.de/filamente/igus

Thanks for the reply.
I tried to find igus style bushing which size is 12mm outer, 10mm inner diameter.
I think its too thin to build.
I think someone should make the 'one pieced x axis bushing guide'.

Good luck to your work.

I'm going to use 3/8" carbon pultrusion tube and the bushings linked below. If the carbon doesn't work for any reason, I'll just buy some anodized 3/8" aluminum from my local hardware store and swap it in.

3/8" Igus style bushing for Hypercube : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1953947
3/8" carbon pultrusion tube : http://www.cstsales.com/Carbon_Fiber_Tubes-ss2.html

3/8" Hypercube Parts

please keep us updated on how this works out. Sounds like an interesting upgrade.

The carbon arrived today, and it looks really nice. It has a very smooth glossy finish. It is a little undersized at .369", but I can reduce the bushing slightly to make it fit properly. I've ordered some carbon filled PLA so I can experiment with the bushings while I wait for everything else.

All of the aluminum and mechanical parts just left China, and I already have the electronics so I should have the printer built in a few weeks.

I have thought about that too. As the outside of a carbon pipe will be a thin layer of resin, you should use something "softer" as bushings, like the IGUS bushings. I guess the "original" bushings from Tech2C would wear on the carbon.

I don,t think carbon tube will stand up to the sliding mechanism.But if you want to try it,give it a go.
I would be interested in the results.

Hello,

Can I connect my two Z stepper motors in the two Z connecters from the Ramps 1.4 or do I have to change something in configuration_h ?

Thank you,
Harry

Yes you can connect them, you do not need to do anything in configuration files.

Thanks, Harry

Unfortunately there are no editable files, just stl. Can you make a Z carriage + clamp for a LM8LUU (long bearing) instead of two short ones?

Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 12, 2017
bakmibaso - in reply to realadry

i think you can find that at remixes

Found it, thank you.

Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 12, 2017

Is there anywhere online to buy screws that is not based in US?
Believe it or not I can't for the life of me find M5 8mm screws! I have literally everything needed for this build, BUT these screws! So annoying!

I ordered my screws from all over, ebay, banggood, amazon. I needed more, so I decided to just stock up. Found this site and should have just ordered from them in the first place. https://www.accu.co.uk/en/

I had a couple screws strip in the frame and were a pita to deal with. Decided to go all torx screws so I won't have to deal with that as much. The prices were reasonable and they should be here within 5 days (haven't gotten them yet, ordered last night).

Either from china (ebay, aliexpress) or based in germany: online-schrauben.de

Is it available in English too? Couldn't find a language settings on online-schrauben.de.

Thank you, but I can't buy from ebay. They don't ship to my country. It's gotta be something that's not based in US.

+1 that link of techgirl, great source for us brits Kays offers a fast service, you could spend hours searching elsewhere and only save pennies.

@jinx They are my go-to company for just about everything nut and bolt related. I very rarely have to use any other supplier.

Comments deleted.

Has anyone made a carriage for Igus 10 mm plastic bushings ?
I put the 10 mm brass ones, but they are binding a lot, I don't know if this will not force my steppers too much ...
But I have 3 Igus bushings for 10 mm which are sliding very nice !
The outer dimensions are 19 x 29 mm .

I want just to mention that this was done and it is in the remixes section ! Works very nice with either Igus or Metal 10 mm bearings !

could I use a 10mm hardened smooth rod for the x axis instead of anodized aluminum??

No problem with that, only it will be a little heavier .

Hi i want the wiring and the circuit connections for the stepper motor and the extruder please mention the wiring clearly and the program for the arduino and show me how to give print outs throug memory card please

Feb 10, 2017 - Modified Feb 11, 2017

Hi,
how much free and usable space is there on the X axis when using a 20x20 bed?
has anyone tried to build it with a 300x200 heat bed ?
If I'm not wrong, this means X rods = 460mm ... is it correct?
In that case I'll put the "300" side of the bed on X to limit cantilever effect.. any suggestion is welcome, perhaps larger rods on Z?

My HyperCube was built with a 270 mm x 220 mm bed. I put the 220 mm in the Y direction and used 10 mm bearings and rods for the Z axis. It is rock solid.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:272257

All material dimensions are posted in the above link. I used solid 8 mm rods for the X axis.

HyperCube 3D Printer

Hi I want the schematic assembly of the 3d printed parts and their list please

I don't know of any schematic or assembly diagrams. You need to watch the videos which show the assembly process. Also be aware that earlier videos show the assembly of older version parts and locations. It seems confusing at first but if you watch all the videos, you'll know how to assemble the HyperCube.

thank you!!

Just wanted to say you thanks for your awesome 3D printer. I really like it.

Feb 9, 2017 - Modified Feb 9, 2017

After mounting everything together I noticed that the Z_leadscrew_support_v1.1 and the Z_motor_v1.1 can't be used together.
The leadscrew support sticks out much more then the z motor mount. Had to remove the leadscrew support to make it work.

Feb 10, 2017 - Modified Feb 10, 2017
RalphVigg - in reply to frabraha

I just looked at the old and new leadscrew supports, the new one is DEFINITELY further away. If you dont have an integrated z-screw, use the NEWer version.

The leadscrew support goes to the frame with the same distance as the stepper motor, while the nut mount goes to the moving bed? How can they not fit?

Sorry, I meant the Z motor mount, not the z nut mount.

Probably because Tech2C uses the stepper with integrated leadcrew, and does not use the leadcrew support anymore. Maybe it fits to the old z-motor mount here? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013921/#files Thanks for this anyway, as I will need the leadscrew support this weekend, my 1450mm extrusions, rods and leadscrews for the new Z axis came today, and integrated leadscrews will not be stable without support on that distance.

Hypercube retired file versions
by Tech2C
Feb 10, 2017 - Modified Feb 10, 2017
RalphVigg - in reply to mbruehl

I just looked at the old and new leadscrew supports, the new one is DEFINITELY further away. If you dont have an integrated z-screw, use the NEWer one

I was thinking the same thing.

Let us know how the old z-motor mount fits. Might need to have the leadscrew support after all.

Im having the same issue! Its actually bending my threaded rods, I just bent my second one.

My project for the weekend just got canceled :-( They send me 10x2 leadscrews instead of 8x1.5

Ugh, that's the worst. If I were you, I'd make them pay for return shipping and shipping the correct screws.

At least you know, now. It's really important that the leadscrew is straight. I've bent 2 leadscrews because of the incorrect guide bearing at the top. And im using somewhat short leadscrews. Your (very) long leadscrews would get bent within an hour if you dont get yours perfectly aligned. Make sure you post a make, I really want to see your 1.5 meter tall printer (?)

They will send the right ones and as shipping for 2m long objects is expensive, i can keep the wrong ones. Material for the next bigger printer :-) I have no guide on my 350mm leadscrew and it is working perfect.

Thats good. And yeah, I ended up aking off my guide, but I hate it. It just skeeves me out to have it swinging back and forth, but it actually got rid of the slight z banding that was beignning to develop. really strange, but I guess quality > asthetics. Maybe Ill leave the guide on, but keep the screws loose so it's free to slide back and forth. That way in my mind it's secure haha

I am going to build this printer. What a great design and very easy to understand tutorials! Thank you very very much!
How difficult would it be to change mechanical endstop switches to optical? Here is the one as an example:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-Optical-Endstop-Light-Control-Limit-Optical-Switch-for-3D-Printers-RAMPS-1-4-Free/1717833014.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.281.rZsSUR

Thanks for your comment.

Why would you want to go for the optical end stops?
The position of the endstops is not critical, they are only sampled once during homing and neither is the durability.
Although electrically it will not be a problem to use the optical endstops , mechanically it is much more difficult than a switch. If you want to use optical sensors you might consider to go for a reflection sensor for example TCRT5000.

Success!

Thanks a lot for your wisdom. I agree with you now that you brought up these very good points. I am going mechanical!

Feb 9, 2017 - Modified Feb 9, 2017

Hi, I am kinda newish to the 3D printing and after reviewing a lots of stuff I decided that I'd like to make this build.
What I want to know is

Did anyone calculate the full price for all the stuff needed to get it made ?
Where to look if I want those part printed in rather high quality, or if too expensive, then ANY quality (since I do not own a 3D printer yet)

I watched like bazillion reviews and whatnots, and I figured out that I can build it better than the cheap china printers they are selling on gearbest, ofc I have some previous experience in building things myself...

I also recently started this build. I priced out the parts to get printed, laughed at the numbers then purchased an Anet A6 because it was available quickly. Set it up, tuned it. Printed all the parts and put them in a pile. Now I am waiting on the rest of the parts to arrive (bearings, stepper with integrated lead screw and replacement t-slots. Make sure yours have a 6mm t-slot. 0.o). That made more "cents" than having someone print them and find when I go to put everything together that something is wrong. I'd rather be able to make the adjustment and print it myself and be back on track in an hour.

Oh yeah, I have double checked with my local alu - warehouse for the correct T slot profiles... I saw at least 2 failed attempts on YT with the wrong ones :)

I have a question. I used the lengths specified in the description, but I have nowhere near the 200x200x155 build volume. I suspect my frame is oriented incorrectly. My build is completely finished, by the way. So this kind of sucks.

Im getting the full 200mm bed in the X axis, but only about 150 in the Y, and 110 in the Z. Im sure my extrusions are correct. I think I oriented the frame incorrectly when I put in all the parts.

clogs - in reply to

I think it depends to some extent on which extruder,motors etc. you're using.But 110 Z does seem a bit low.

I bought everything according to Tech2C's BOM, so thats not the issue. I think my frame is "rotated" 90 degrees in Y and 90 in Z. Once another part breaks and I wont be printing for a while, I'll move all the parts and see what that does.

Feb 9, 2017 - Modified Feb 9, 2017
w4rr3n - in reply to

Even if rotated it should be X that has lesser area. Are you getting the full Y range moving extruder with motors off? If you are you can edit the firmware a little to fix it at Y_min(Where extruder will hit when Y endstop activated, should be out of build area therefore negative the amount out of bed) Y_max(typically 200). Z axis when used with a coupler I'm getting about 115mm.

Just measure the X and Y extrusions, they're about 37mm different. (X being longer)

Actually no. The frame is not rotate. I even removed the metal feet, so if anything, I should have extra volume in Z.

All the extrusion lengths are correct. Im in the middle of a long print right now, but when im done, ill tell you what hits and prevents the Y from reaching the back of the bed.

i Don't want to build a heated bed, what do I not need to buy?

A heated bed

xd00z1 - in reply to

No extra wires?

Youre going to need wires to extend the existing components like the heater and thermistor, they're almost always too short anyway. I would just buy the heated bed, its not expensive, just dont wire it. Thats what I did. But now I have the option.

xd00z1 - in reply to

well, I met as well do the heated bed. Where could I get one 12x8

12x8 what? Inches? Centimeters?

xd00z1 - in reply to

I found one

where can I get a 12" print bed for x axis, and regular y size

I need a 12x8

should i just get glass? I don't want a heated bed

If you don't want a heated bed, that's fine. You will still need a platform of some type to print on. Since the magnetic sensor will not work with just glass, you will need to manually setup the print head distance from the glass for printing.

I use an IR sensor with glass, and PEI surface for printing. https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/mini-differential-ir-height-sensor

Installation of the IR sensor is a little different than normal so read thru this information:
https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/

For the anodised aluminium rods. I have bought non anodised rods. They were a little bit to big for the bearings. so i have used a scotch brite pad to make the aluminium rods the correct diameter. And after that i have polished the rods to reduse a little bit friction. I have printed many parts now and i have no problem with it.

where did you get them?

Feb 13, 2017 - Modified Feb 13, 2017
Yesco - in reply to xd00z1

I did get them at: aluminiumopmaat.nl
The aluminium tubes are 3 euro's. If you ask they do also anodise them. Then the tubes are 23 euro's.

Hi. Thanks for work. I have 4040 aluminium extrusion tslot. Exists a version for that type of extrusion? Can i remix parts to fit hole for 4040 or i must chance the disposition of motors and so on? Regards.

I believe you can remix them, it was already done for 3030 extrusions.

What infill should i print the brackets with? I'm using PETG

use a minimum 35% with a .4 nozzle, be solid enough

I had that idea too.

I plan ( once i learn cad) to replace the anodised aluminium on the XY carriage with a 2020 t slot with a MGN rail on it , not only will this improve accuracy but it will give me some more Z height.

other parts of the core XY should not be too hard to change ether but i have no plans for this. Z will require a bit of a re think on the bed but should be doable if you replace the 2 steel rods with 2020 with an MGM on them and move the bed backwards.

i will use 12mm rods on z-axis, they works amazing on my ultimaker, so i think, mgn's isnt required there.

Hi. What a nice peace of work. Any chance of getting step files of some of the parts. I will build one with 10mm cr rods for the Y and z-ax.
So I will need to adapt all the carriages , clamps , XY joiner and Dual bushing holder. I will print the bushings myself. I will use carbon filled PLA. I have been experimenting on my old Prusa with it, with very satisfactory results. Especially for the X carriage this seems to be a good idea.These aluminium rods have quiet a tolerance.(0.5mm the once I saw) The home made bearings can be adjusted on the axle diameter. By making the bearing and e.g. the double pushing as one part you will not have any problem with lining up the 2 separate bearings or even better print the upper and lower bearing as one part. I did that for my prusa. Anyway publishing the step files would save me a lot of time as I can not added , convert or even measure the STL files soI would have to start from scrap.

I want to go 10mm too. I've printed bushings, as well. Please contact me when you mod the parts...

Is the link to the self-lubricating bushes really correct? They look really small on the ebay-pic.
Was thinking of order a bunch of them but this got me wonder.

They are correct, and they are tiny. You need four in total for the X axis, the rest uses LM8UU. You put two of the small self lubricating bearings into a printed sleeve, which then attatches to the printer. It works well.

yeah they are correct. You can also order some from igus if you want to

seems nice, any suggestion on wich one? They have like a hundred different :)

Feb 5, 2017 - Modified Feb 5, 2017