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Smartrap

by smartfriendz, published

Description

**infos**
main website : smartfriendz.com

video channel :
youtube.com/channel/UC4e-Ds78vj5vZtIupWAGX0A/feed
*note: I just did enable ads . Until it makes everybody really angry, that will help paying the development of the project ? We will see how it goes :) sorry in advance if it hurts anyone*

**last videos :**
Full assembly ( one hour !!! ) in english..ish ;-p

youtu.be/icR2AL6Cjkk and youtu.be/VgoweKWw5D8

---
- Update 03/12/2014 : all models. This is the synchro from the production model in github.
New: globally , the model didn't change so much, but every part is touched by a more solid or more easy to assemble update.
I can't detail all here, maybe github comits detail more what changes where made.
This is the corresponding parts for the actual picture and soon to come documention on smartfriendz.com. Also the model used in assembly videos.
- Update 02/13/2014 : BOM updated.
- Update 01/17/2014 : Production update: all models changed..a little everywhere for better integration, assembly, stability.
There's now an option for hot-end. end_x_jhead OR end_x_huxley for hot-end huxley type that will be used eventually in smartfriendz kits.

- Update 01/05/2014 : fishingline_holders where missing in this version . Now they are back. sorry for the mistake.
- Update 01/04/2014 : plate_base, plate_x, lm8holder_x : all about endstop switch attach. It was not very well working , not enough space. Now it's ok.
- Update 01/02/2014 : all ends X Y : rod holes where too big. Now back to 8mm.
- Update 12/29/2013 : jhead attach was missing. New plate_x : snap M5 with nuts was not right ( too big).
- Update 12/20/2013 : new version: all updated ! Note you can find old version in the reorganized github in old folder.
What's new : Structure now all printed. Auto leveling bed. new supports for easy to remove glass bed. new plate_x more stable. adjusted bearing holders.
New video showing auto leveling bed : youtube.com/watch?v=2k6T-Epg0EI
- update 12/12/2013 : new plate_base. there was a mesh problem for slicing. This version works well here with repetier host and slicr3

- update 12/10/2013: Appologies!! there was a bug with plate_base: the bearing for extruder was always too far ( was 23mm diameter in my blender:( . Sorry about that. it's repaired now.
Updated BOM also.

- update 12/09/2013: plate_base: changed extruder positioning. Was a little too far to press the filament right. I think on a more adjustable solution back. If something's wrong we need to re-print the all plate_base: not good.

- update 12/08/2013: new plate_x, thx to hwiguna feedback. was a bug on one of the bearing holders too tight and not aligned.

- update 12/04/2013 : new plate_x : there is now a new smapping system to insert the M5 bolt . Really more easy to setup.

- Update 11/30/2013 :** Version 0.4.5 : lot of changes again! what is new :
1- new linear bearing holders. old one was breaking. now it's separate holders and it's straight.
2- smaller base plate with reversed extruder.
3- fishing line tensioners. more easy to setup the line ( separate documentation to come soon to explain the process)
4- new x-end jhead: old mesh was a mess. now it's clean and with a new system to attach the fishing line
There is a zip file with old version 0.4. To have the all history, you can use the github.

- Update 11/26/2013 : add V0.5 preview in gallery: lot of changes are coming! thanks to YOUR feedbacks. Rack and pinion, snap Lm8uu, no more wood need, etc :)

- Update 11/25/2013 : New link to the official doc reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_Build_Manual
*(work in progress...)*

- Update 11/20/2013 : ALL FILES ! Moved rods on X and Y up. There where too near to the plates. A side effect was the lm8uu very tight to insert and broke some holders.
Also re-aligned the X axis to let more space between X rods and Z lm8uu holders. There was sometimes a friction between both axis X and Z.

- update: 11/18/2013 : replaced x_end_jhead. smooth rods boleans where missing,

- update 11/18/2013 : new changes in all three plates : lm8uu holders was too tight. now larger, so less risk of break.

- update 11/17/2013 : updated plate_X and plate_Y : there was some bugs in lm8 holder size and position + M5 holder was too low under the plate.

- update 11/15/2013: printing with customized v0.3. videos are right under here.
the shaft coupling 5mm is there : thingiverse.com/thing:107935
replaced plate_base ; the bearing of the extruder was too far (from my tests) . Now should be better. NOTE: it's a setup for a 1.75 mm filament. for a 3mm, the extruder part should be reworked.
IF all coming well, those files will become customisable with thingiverse api!

- update 11/14/2013 : upload version 0.4. put v0.3 in zip file archive.upload new blender renders. starting to print and assemble v0.4.

***

##The smartrap

This is a new design of a reprap 3d printer. It is in the spirit of the printrbot simple , designed by Brook Drumm , a very great designer in my opinion. He found lot of great ideas .
I tried to make it even simpler and this one is made with printed parts only so it's easy reproducible.
It's also full GPL , meaning open to any business.

The main features are :

- Easy to build AND unbuild : This is the main target focus of this project. The goal is to reach a point where the builder will feel like playing LEGO. This way , more people will come to grow the reprap community and make it living. Also, it is designed to be good for experimentation.

- Real Reprap : GPL licence, Structure is all printed , no special tool needed, no precision operations to do at home, reproducible at the most.

- Cheap : the target is home use and experimentations of 3d print. It should stay at the lowest price possible! ( it's nice challenge also).

Up to date Informations and pictures, videos and soon, docs!!! are on reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_mini.

Please consider to check also github.com/smartfriendz/smartrap to be sure stl files are up-to-date here ? Normally they are , but in github there's more infos about the debug and different versions. Thank you.

---


Recent Comments

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Hi thiago ,
would you do that ? that would be wonderful ! I'm so busy with the production that i didn't have time for now, but actually, there is nice wobble on the smartrap i would dream to get rid of !
If you have some little time.. i would be your first tester ! hehe.
thx !

Hello, I'm going to create one of this amazing printer. I can design a z-isolator for it. I'll keep you posted.

Does your start gcode in Slic3r or whatever you use look like this?
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0];set extruder temp and start heating
G28 X0 Y0 ;home X and Y
G29 ;probe bed
G90; set absolute coordinates
G92 E0; reset extruder distance
G1 X10 Y10 F3000 ; move to back right corner

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License

GNU - GPL
Smartrap by smartfriendz is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions


The official assembly documentation is on reprap.org/wiki/Smartrap_Build_Manual
(work in progress, updating quicky)

Thank you.

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Comments

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Guizmo12 on Apr 20, 2014 said:

Alright, now the servo works, but with I send G29, it doesn't save... It does the auto-leveling procedure but it does not change anything when printing. Any ideas ?

madmike8 on Apr 21, 2014 said:

Guizmo, are you using the firmware from the Smartrap Github?

Storhemulen on Apr 20, 2014 said:

No servo Z-offset.

I am trying to use the no servo z-probe, but I can not set a negative z-offset.
So when running G28 or G30 I end up with the nozzle on the glass and M114 reports z 2mm.
What to do?

smartfriendz on Apr 20, 2014 said:

Hi ,
Happy it wired eventually. But it's true with the classic marlin, you won't be able to edit negative values. That's why i made an update with a new marlin on github ( no servo version ). Offset passed to positive values ( usually between 1.5 --2mm) .
With this one you can edit offset values from an lcd .

ldanut on Apr 16, 2014 said:

There is a way to mount a fan that will blow over printed part for huxley hot end?

smartfriendz on Apr 20, 2014 said:

Hi idanut,
I didn't design such a thing, but i guess there is still place to do ? i think on the side.

R4C3R on Apr 16, 2014 said:

Warping issues

I have significant warping issues which can't seem to get rid off. I use blue painters tape on the glass bed for adhesion of the PLA, print my first layer at 200 degrees celcius and consecutive layers at 175 degrees celcius.

The PLA adheres very good to the blue painters tape, but when warping occurs it lifts the blue painters tape from the glass bed.

Any suggestions on how to get rid of the warping? Further lowering the print temperature?

@Serge, do you experience warping when printing on your smartrap? I assume the SK15 was printed on a standard smartrap, and those parts looked really nice. Any advice?

smartfriendz on Apr 16, 2014 said:

Hi R4C3R,
I print at 200 degrees all along , 175 seems a little low to me ?
The first 20 kits where printed on glass with uhu glue stick and it sticks very well. But, you need to manage the layer at each print as you have some glue going to the part.
For one week now, i switched to white wood glue mix ( 1/3 and 2/3 water). Paint on the glass. wait it's really dry . It makes a very solid layer.. and it's perfect ! ( for me at least ? ) . I printed 15 full kits last week like this and never touched the glass again. Parts sticks well and pop out quiet easy. I'm just happy with that now .. please try this once ?

ldanut on Apr 14, 2014 said:

I'm having issues with pushfit connectors and bowden tube. It seems they allow very small tolerance to PLA filament and i get tons of jams at the point where bowden cable threads into pushfit connector that goes into huxley hot end. Does anybody had same issue? Did anyone tried using these: http://openedge.eu/product/pne... ?

Guizmo12 on Apr 13, 2014 said:

Serge,
I've done a modification to have a 9gTowerpro servo. Because its different from your modification. What do I have to do to make it work ?

smartfriendz on Apr 14, 2014 said:

Hi,

Well, the 9g towerpr should work , no ? I think i have the same as you . Can i know what doesn't work ?

RepRapOsterlen on Apr 13, 2014 said:

Is it only me or is there an error on the stl file base plate with the Bowden holder?
One of the holes to attach the nema motor does either have a thin wall that slicer thinks should be open or I got a bad print right there?
Only wondering as I printed the parts to have something to compare with while doing my wooden smartrap.

smartfriendz on Apr 14, 2014 said:

Hi,

I didn't noticed that ? I print here 15 kits per week now with those files and haven't any problems ( well I have, but not this one :).
wooden smartrap ? ho hoo.. that's interesting ! pictures ? i'm curious now :)

mlapaglia on Apr 13, 2014 said:

What servo are you using in the holder? I have a micro servo but it doesn't fit in the holder!

madmike8 on Apr 13, 2014 said:

Serge uses the pololu micro servo which is a 3.7g servo. I use a Turnigy TGY-1370A 3.7g servo.

martynovks on Apr 11, 2014 said:

Hi Serge!
I almost done, but some very strange thing - when connect servo (SG-90) it turn in wrong direction when autoleveling. I have Ramps 1.4 and wire it in picture github, but reverse polarity to work it. May be somebody know the code to change direction? Thank you

madmike8 on Apr 12, 2014 said:

M280 P0 Sx (where x is the angle for the arm.) 88 was mine, so I edited this line in the Marlin Configuration.h file.

//smartrap : version pololu servo (dark blue)

#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 88,10) // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

Use M401 and M402 to test extending and retracting the servo arm.

jaeg on Apr 8, 2014 said:

Have you by chance done any more 'artistic' prints with the current generation of Smartraps? Like the zombie hunter head or the Owl?

madmike8 on Apr 12, 2014 said:

Under my Build thread on the reprap forums is a pic of my scaled down print of the Zombie Hunter

loskiorama on Apr 6, 2014 said:

hey guys,

I'm having a problem with the bowden bearing.
It seems that the mk7 gear is not close enough to the bearing so when the gear spins on it's axis the filament stays in the same place.

I believe this issue is related to the torque not being enough to push the filament trough the bowden tube as when I try without a bowden the gear makes the filament move (and there is bearing spinning as well)

I uploaded a video that shows what I'm trying to explain here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...
(Take into account that the quality is pretty poor (out of focus) as I used a really old camera)

smartfriendz on Apr 6, 2014 said:

Hi Ioskiorama,

I understand very well your problem there. I've noticed a little late that there's no real standard for MK7.. you can have from 10 to 11 mm diameter depending of the source.
I choose to make simple and a full integrated extruder.. but of course , when something's wrong, you need to reprint the all plate base :( which is very not nice.
There will be an update with a separated extruder, for all settings .. maybe two extruders because i see now we are speed limited with direct extruders . If we go too fast, we need more couple to pass through the nozzle.
There's a nice rework with a rock stock direct extruder.. maybe a good idea for waiting ?

R4C3R on Apr 6, 2014 said:

Serge,

I have a question: if I'm not mistaken, you use Slic3r in combination with Repetier. In Repertier, there is an option for the printer settings. If you go in these settings and click behaviour, you can set the "travel feed rate". What speed are you using?

Another question: what speed do you use in Slic3er for the infill?

thx for letting me know.

regards,

smartfriendz on Apr 6, 2014 said:

Hi R4C3r,

In repetier, i let all the values by default.
For slic3r, i've put the init with all values on our github. infill is set actually at : 45mm/s

LucasGelf on Apr 6, 2014 said:

Does the BOM include everything needed to start printing, or just some of it? Also, could any of the wooden planks be switched out for a printed part? My new 3d printer (on the way probably) prints 10" x 10" x 10". Could I sub any parts?

smartfriendz on Apr 6, 2014 said:

Hi lucas,
The bon needs ( always) to be checked, but normally, it should include everything to have a full printer.

The wood plank where retired form the design some time ago. you will see 3 base_plate replacing it.

On the last version, i will give 2 options because we at smartfriendz , need t add a plank to ship the glass ( 50% of shipping glass where broken). So, as we ship it, let's use it ?

Karabas on Apr 4, 2014 said:

I am highly recommending to use "Z-isolator" . It improves Z quality a lot. Such as http://www.thingiverse.com/thi.... it's simple and very efficient at least at my M90.

smartfriendz on Apr 4, 2014 said:

Hi karabas,
Very interesting indeed. I load the model and try to adapt to the smartrap.
z wobble is real problem , and it's even exaggerated on the smartrap design with the porte a faux.. so any good solution is to be very much appreciated.
this one looks good. thank you .

gab0natchi on Apr 2, 2014 said:

Hi Serge! I'm one of those who's having trouble installing servo. I found a video of auto bed leveling without servo. Does it mean it's ok not to use the servo? Is there extra steps to do it?

smartfriendz on Apr 2, 2014 said:

Hi gabonatchi,

Well, this new system is just setup from yesterday but im' very happy with it . I will update here soon now ( it's in dev in github, but a little messy ).

It's quiet simple to update : you need to take from github/stl/dev/0.4.6

end_x_huxley
huxley_attach
endx_support_endstopZ

then the assembly should be quiet easy ( help from the video ? ) .

after that, there is a marlin in github too. BUT.. it's still messy in a way that the servo lib is still there and i only commented two methods. Rest is setup only.
you need also to reload the slicer init geode. we add a z move up after probe to get out the head from the plate. Or you will scrape the head on the plate.. not nice :)

I will update with a more clean version soon.. i'm working on it . BUT..it works really well and it's more secure ( cannot miss the head ) .

LudDog71 on Apr 1, 2014 said:

Hi,

A friend have print all parts from "Thing Files". But it seems that bottom_z_extruder.stl is not the same than the one you use in the video "Smartrap : from box to print - part 1/2".
Do you have a new stl file I can download ? I have clone GitHub sources but I didn't find the good one.

Thanks.
Ludo

smartfriendz on Apr 1, 2014 said:

Hi Ludo,
From the video, it was a very large bottom taking all both motors, but unfortunately, it didn't help much more than the small actual one. It was just there in case the plate would be "not so plate" .
I think we can find it in the history in github . It's not used anymore.

R4C3R on Mar 30, 2014 said:

Hi,

My SK15 got supplied with 0.9deg stepper motors. In the configuration.h I recognized that there might be different motors.

// motors definitions - ! AT LEAST ONE SHOULD BE ON / UNCOMMENTED

#define motors09 // version 0.9 degres motors. change steps

// #define motors1848 // version motors 1.8 degres, 48mm long

// #define motors1840 // version motors 1.8 degres, 40mm long . this one has a shaft adaptor and changes steps

However I'm not sure the settings for the 0.9 degree motors are correct.

// default settings - smartrap: uses define on top for different motors config

#ifdef motors09

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {394,394,7400,170} // smartrap : version 0.9 deg. 1/16 {382,382,7400,170}

#endif

#ifdef motors1848

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {194,194,4000,85} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85}

#endif

#ifdef motors1840

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {99,99,4000,80} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85} robotdigg.shaft adaptor,fishline big

#endif

For the 0.9 degree stepper motors I would expect the following settings:

X-axis: 400*16/(3,14159265*5) = 407
Y-axis: 400*16/(3,14159265*5) = 407
Z-axis 400*16/(0,8) = 8000
Extruder MK7: 400*16/(10,56*3,14159265) = 192

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {407,407,8000,192}

Any thoughts on this?

Regards,

smartfriendz on Mar 30, 2014 said:

Hi,
You're perfectly right in your calculations, and i had the same values when i calculated for 0.9 degrees motors.
Unfortunately, when i measured resulting printed parts... it was wrong :(
I dont really know why, but eventually, i've found that those actual values gave me the right mesure on real parts.
I suspect the ticknesss of the fishing line playing ? ( when i use thicker line, i need to update the values).
the most strange happen with Z .. I suspect autolevelling ( always Z moving ) with nut backslash playing here ?
I will be super happy if you try on your side and tell me your results ?

R4C3R on Mar 30, 2014 said:

Hi,

Got another question: how do I calibrate the off-set for the auto bed levelling (distance between z-endstop and extruder)?

Regards,
R4C3R

smartfriendz on Mar 30, 2014 said:

That i MUST document. I will do a short video about that , but mostly :
You make a home X, home Y ..then advance X for 20 , then you can home Z. It will probe Z.
At this point, you can go down manually and count until the head is near the plate ( paper sheet). That's your offset value.
With the smartfriendz firmware, i've add a command M555 which setup the offset. so you can type : M555 Z(your value) , then M500 to memorize it in eeprom.
If you get a lcd, it's in control -> motion -> z offset.

Then you can try a print.

maxoutny on Mar 30, 2014 said:

Go to YouTube and search for AoutoBed leveling....

R4C3R on Mar 30, 2014 said:

Hi,

I just got my Smartrap all wired up, including lcd smart panel.

When I use "auto home" from the menu, the servo with the Z-endstop doesn't turn all the way to the bed.

How can I increase the angle of the rotation so that the endstop points all the way to the bed.

Regards,
R4C3R

R4C3R on Mar 30, 2014 said:

Hi,

I've just figured it out and made the following change to configuration.h

ORIGINAL

//smartrap : version pololu servo (dark blue)

#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 35,100} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

CHANGED TO

//smartrap : version pololu servo (dark blue)

#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 10,100} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

now the Z-probe points all the way down to the bed.

loskiorama on Mar 27, 2014 said:

Hey,

I'm having some problems rolling the fisihng line around the y motor shaft
What happens is that the shaft seems to be too short so I can turn more than twice around the motor without having the fishing line coming out from the top

This image shows what I mean http://www.thingiverse.com/mak...

i'm wondering if the y motor should be touching the ground or it should be "floating" pressed by the plate base and electronics plate as I find hard to believe that my stepper motor shaft is to short given that the shaft length is pretty standard

Any help appreciated :)
Love this project

smartfriendz on Mar 28, 2014 said:

hi ioskiorama,

Unfortunately, shaft length are not standard :( you can find motors with shaft length from 18mm to 25mm.
The only way ( apart from trying the belts setup seen in makes) is to print a shaft adaptor.
I made one but it's not for round shafts, so i need to make another one .
it works well, you need also to adapt the step motors settings in firmware as the diameter changes.
Thank you

aleadom on Mar 22, 2014 said:

Hello, I´m using this for printing on your smartrap and my prusa i2 http://www.ebay.es/itm/PHENOLI...
You can print here without 3m, directly on the sheet. Think better, and more ecologic than 3m.

I´m not seller or similar if you can boy phenolic sheet otherway and cheaper, please post.

smartfriendz on Mar 22, 2014 said:

Hi aleadom,

Thank you for the link. I will buy some immediately. Any solution to print directly PLA on a bed without heating is higly appreciated.
I will tell you if i have the same results ?
thx

dzdn on Mar 21, 2014 said:

Hello! I am going to try to build a Smartrap! I have some meter long smooth rods to cut down. How much bigger do you think this can reasonably scale up?
Thanks!

smartfriendz on Mar 22, 2014 said:

Hi dzdn,
Thx for your interest in this project :) it's always nice to see new builders :)
Let's try 1 meter all axis ? ok..i'm kidding.
I'm doing some tests actually with 300mm Y (the base one ) . It gives around 200 mm printable.
for Z , you can extend to 400mm i think ?
for X , it can be more complicated actually because i'm still not 100% happy with the porte a faux system. you can try 300mm too and try to re-inforce the plat_x . On a old version i had a plate under the motor x with bearings on Z. I think i will come back to this solution as it's more stable.
That's all i can say for now :)

madmike8 on Mar 21, 2014 said:

I'm wiring up my smartrap now but I have a question on the servo wiring. Using the photo from the github documentation.
Where it saying to plug in the servo is S,-,+ like an airtronics servo, but the normal JR/Futaba servos are S,+,- is what I have.
i assume i need to swap the servo wiring to match the ramps board? Is this correct?

smartfriendz on Mar 21, 2014 said:

hi madmike8,

It's exactly that. All servos are S,+,- but the connection i've choosed ( it can be other way of course) on the ramps was to use a Z+ port , and it's S,-,+ there.
After that it should work . Don't forget to tell the right pin to the firmware.

camcknight14 on Mar 19, 2014 said:

Hi Serge,

Could you please tell me of a reliable place to get a new j-head hot end. The current one that I have doesn't have any info on it, and I don't know what thermistor value to put into Marlin. I believe it is reading the wrong temp because Repetier says 200, but I grabbed a thermocouple from work, and it says 100 on the outside of the heater block.

smartfriendz on Mar 19, 2014 said:

Hi camcknight,

Unfortunately, a part the original j-head website ( where i find too expensive), the all market seem to be spoiled by low quality j-heads. I've bought 5 in the beginning of smartrap production and i never could make them work more than 5 minutes. It went all blocked :(
That's why i switched to huxley type with a very good maker in uk. After 50 head , i'm still happy. no one problem !

gab0natchi on Mar 18, 2014 said:

I apologize if I mess up the discussion. This is my first build of 3d printer. It turns out I bought a different mechanical endstop, it doesn't fit on the slots. What type of endstop exactly should I get for this?

sandberg on Mar 19, 2014 said:
gab0natchi on Mar 19, 2014 said:

Anyone?

glennswest on Mar 17, 2014 said:

Can we get the proper bom in thingverse and git. I'm trying to build, and finding a consistent bom is not easy.

madmike8 on Mar 17, 2014 said:

It would be nice, but for now I just watched the assembly videos and wrote down what he used. From what I remember of things not on the BOM was m3x20 screws, m3 nuts, and a 3.7g servo.

pcchameleon on Mar 14, 2014 said:

All,

I modded the jhead attach part to include a 40mm fan mount on it. I have printed it out but not tested it yet. If you use it, let me know how it works.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Thanks,

PCChameleon

smartfriendz on Mar 14, 2014 said:

Thank you. It looks very simple and efficient. Next time i mount a j0head i will try this one .

Guizmo12 on Mar 12, 2014 said:

Bonjour Serge, Je me demande comment l'imprimante réagit quand le pièce et plus haute. Puisqu'il n'y a pas de support sur les guides, les vibrations et le mouvement de la tête doit tout de même altérer l'impression. Pour me convaincre de faire cette imprimante j'aimerais voir une haute pièce imprimer et même montrer qu'il n'y a pas de jeu quand la tête est haute.

Autre question, avec le hardware que tu propose en version Raw sur ton site, quel est le printable space ?

Merci d'avance !

smartfriendz on Mar 12, 2014 said:

Bonjour,
Bonne question, je dois poster une video avec un objet plus haut. D'apres mes tests, ca ne bouge pas a 100mm, mais j'avoue ne pas avoir testé a 150mm .. a faire d'urgence.
Le kit, comme le kit hardware donne une zone d'impression de 150x150x150 max.

quick61 on Mar 12, 2014 said:

I'm on my way to building one of these and at this point, I am about clueless as to which extruder gear I will be needing. I'm having the parts printed for me as this is going to be my first printer and the print is from yesterdays files on github. Your docs say to use a maritime models unit but sense you failed to mention which size, it left me guessing and now I fear I ordered the wrong one. No real big deal until I take into account the cost tripling with shipping! So, maybe someone can tell me EXACTLY which extruder gear I need before I go pi$$ing away any more of my money trying to figure this out. Thanks.

Aside from this little bit of frustration, I am really looking forward to getting this little guy together. I'v been wanting to get into 3D printing for a while now and this looks like a good first step.

smartfriendz on Mar 12, 2014 said:

Hi quick61,
First, sorry for the mistake in doc. I tried to update, but there's always a new thing coming, as we where finishing to adjust a model for our production kits.
Now it's more stable, so I can at last make this all models and doc all together.
We use now mk7 gear models as it is more wildly available and more standard than maritime models.
The last models are made for this gear, but i want to put also a compatible model for the maritime.
usually, maritime are 7mm diameter , mk7 around 10mm, and mk8 also 7mm.

sandberg on Mar 12, 2014 said:

MK7 works fine for me: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271379...

MegaAdonis on Mar 11, 2014 said:

Can we get the new updated parts posted to match the picture please?

botbuilder1 on Mar 11, 2014 said:

Serge,

I'm a first time builder and wanted to let you know that I am having great success with your design.

It went together easily and it printed very well within the first couple tries.

I am still trying to dial it in through printing calibration objects. Have found that slic3r and cura produce different results for the same stl file. I'm sure its just a difference in settings, but there is not a lot of commonality between the two and I am a newbie.

What slicer are you using? Can you share you settings?

Thanks,
Roy

smartfriendz on Mar 11, 2014 said:

hi botbuilder,
Thx for sharing your experience. It is the real meaning of this project to make it the most possible easy , cheap, and good quality reprap , i would say .. real , printed , reprap :)
I'm using slic3r and i share the settings on github at the root of smartrap folder.

camcknight14 on Mar 9, 2014 said:

Hi Serge!

smartfriendz on Mar 9, 2014 said:

Hi camcknight,
ok. it's my fault ( bad doc), but tis coming.. see the doc folder on github.. it's still not complete but will be very soon now ( i need it done this week).
Basicaly, i don't plug the servo on servo ports because all is made in software. So i used Z_Max port ( there's a signal,- and + aligned there. So my firmware wait for the servo at this pin. Just take care because ramps - and + are inverted from the servo connector.
I just updated marlin to have the last version. There is now a M555 Zxx command where xx is the Z offset from extruder value. It is useful because this value change very often, at each assembly ( it's the difference between z-enstop and the head).

raptor on Mar 9, 2014 said:

Had the same issue. Think it's a firmware bug. Servo 0 doesn't respond, but if I plug the servo into the next slot and say there are 2 servos and use servo 1 instead it works.

martynovks on Mar 9, 2014 said:

Hello. Great work! I'll make it. You say it is cap print only PLA. Why not ABS? The only difference is temperature and heating bed. May be it work if add heating bed under glass as i3 have? Is it work? Thank you

smartfriendz on Mar 9, 2014 said:

Hi martynovks,
Thank you :)
Yes, it will work with ABS of course. Last version has the place to fit a mk2 heater on Y. It's just that the kits i'm selling are not , for now, with heated bed. It will come , i'm sure :)

raptor on Mar 9, 2014 said:

I'm having problems with the Bowden extruder. I bought the Maritime gear for the extruder and thus have to modify the base plate so that the filament is close enough to the motor to get it to extrude. I have modified the bearing to be close and the filament gets pushed through the Bowden tube to the hotend, but it then seems to get stuck and won't push anymore when it reaches the hotend. The motor will turn, but the bearing doesn't and I think it just wears out at that same spot on the filmanet. Pushing sometimes helps sometimes it doesn't.
Do you have a version of the base plate meant for the maritime gear? Has anyone else had issues with the extruder when using the MK7 gear? I might order an MK7 if this can resolve my problem. I am threading the Bowden tube using nuts to hold the ends in place.

smartfriendz on Mar 9, 2014 said:

Hi raptor,

My fault. I'm about to add a plate base with m4 nut for the bowden and 7mm ( maritime and mk8) gear. So we will have 2 versions.

SkyRider on Mar 9, 2014 said:

If any of you haven't tried it, consider using thermoplastic inserts in the 'receiving' holes of your plastic parts. This makes sure that you don't rely on having to tap a plastic part, eliminates the need for some nuts and you can also assemble and disassemble without worry about wearing out the holes. I finished re-assembling my SmartRap today (that's 3 of them made so far) and used those when I incorporated new end-stops. I can tighten things down now really tight without worrying about stripping the plastic.

camcknight14 on Mar 6, 2014 said:

Hey Serge,

Do you have your endstops wire as NO or NC?

smartfriendz on Mar 6, 2014 said:

i think i'm NO ? ( not sure).

In marlin, i have :

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false;

Miranda04 on Mar 4, 2014 said:

Hi Serge!

Quick question, when I flash the marlin software onto the arduino board, do I only upload the configuration.h file? Or do all of the files have to be uploaded?

smartfriendz on Mar 4, 2014 said:

Hi Miranda04,

It's better to take all the folder. If there's differencies between two versions, it can be very hard to debug.

I still need to document the changes i've made from the main marlin.. There's not much, but a part config.h there's also pin.h and a hack , due to the Smartrap's design for probing, in marlinmain.cpp ( Z_PROBE_DETA_X).

loskiorama on Mar 4, 2014 said:

hey guys!
did anyone find where to source the bowden cable + pneu fittings in the US?
It shouldn't be so hard but i'm still struggling!

SkyRider on Mar 5, 2014 said:

I went to McMaster Carr for my tubing. You should be able to find the fitting there too.

Berour on Mar 2, 2014 said:

are you going to updated all files soon ?

smartfriendz on Mar 3, 2014 said:

Hi Berour,
There will be an update yes. I don't know exactly when because i need to update ( or re-integrate ) the j-head endX. For the rest, it needs an update from the production version from github.

R4C3R on Mar 1, 2014 said:

It looks like the servo is missing on the updated BOM

smartfriendz on Mar 1, 2014 said:

Thx R4C3R,

I will add it .

bluecamel on Feb 28, 2014 said:

Wow, this is really great! Thanks for sharing.

Brook is a great designer, but I've had terrible experiences with his company. I'd much rather support you and I'll be ordering a kit soon!

smartfriendz on Mar 1, 2014 said:

thank you bluecamel :)

I'm sorry for the experience with the company. I know it's hard to run such a company where you want to build for all the world :) That's why i choose to really share (GPL). We have already a builder/seller in taiwan, one to come in USA, will be cool.

tomhowbridge on Feb 26, 2014 said:

Has the dimensions for the base plate disappeared from the BOM or does it not have one in this production model?

smartfriendz on Mar 1, 2014 said:

Do you mean the wood plate ?
We don't use it anymore . The base is printed now

qtrain23 on Feb 25, 2014 said:

so how exactly do you go about flashing and setting up the software? got a tutorial anywhere?

smartfriendz on Feb 25, 2014 said:

Hi qtrain,
We will publish some more infos on smartfriendz.com, but you can easy find a lot of information about flashing firmware with the ramps and/or arduino. On reprap.org. look for ramps, for example ?
The smartrap firmware ( marlin with our setup) is published on our github.

amramsey on Feb 25, 2014 said:

Anyone looking to build one of these and is located in Canada or the US should check out the current deal that Mitsumi is running... $150 discount on your first order. A Mitsumi Smartrap BOM and more details from this thread at Reddit : http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprin...

gregpxc on Mar 4, 2014 said:

Hey! I saw that you linked my post lol here's a newer post I made that gets updated more frequently. It includes the production BOM.

http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprin...

tomhowbridge on Feb 25, 2014 said:

Hello,
My ramps board will not seat properly on the arduino

pcchameleon on Feb 25, 2014 said:

I had to sand down (and cut back) one of the solder points on the bottom of the RAMPS board. It was smashing into the DC power on the Arduino...

sascham on Feb 24, 2014 said:

Hi,

What is the hotend you use in your latest version ?

smartfriendz on Feb 24, 2014 said:

Hi sascham,
In the last version we use a huxley hotend ( reprappro) . You can find our provider in emakershop.com.
The j-head version is still working but need an update . Will be soon done now.

Laur on Feb 20, 2014 said:

Hello Serge
Sorry to come back on this. I've set my Minitronics on X and Y. On Z I can not calibrate it. Even after I'm setting a home position, when I start printing it goes under the bad level quite a lot.
I've taken out any G28 from the g-code, but still the same.
I've connected the servo on AUX 1 pins as you suggested, but still no action. Am I missing something in the configuration file?

smartfriendz on Feb 20, 2014 said:

Hi Laur,
By reading your report, i'm not sure you did all necessary steps to have a nice autolevel system working.
Is the servo working ? ( plug the usb and it should go to the retract position angle from last line in configuration.h )
did you adjust angles ?
Did you follow all the steps in marlin firmware readme file ( at the end). He explains all better than me. You should adjust different things to have some offsets from the zstop and the nozzle.
I was just talking about the servo plug for minitronics, but there's some more steps to have the all system working.

Unhacker on Feb 20, 2014 said:

Hey are these the parts referenced by the current docs at http://reprap.org/wiki/Smartra... ? Thanks!

smartfriendz on Feb 20, 2014 said:

Hi unhacker,

Unfortunately not. I was so busy adjusting the model to have our production verison that i just come to documentation back now .
Expect a nice update next week .

Laur on Feb 19, 2014 said:

Thank you Serge!
Good tip!

Laur on Feb 19, 2014 said:

Hi everybody!
Is someone using minitronics for the smartrap? Any tricks for programming and setting it? How about the autoleveling?

smartfriendz on Feb 19, 2014 said:

Hi Laur,
It works with the minitronics. I've used extension pins . With the minitronics doc + pin.h in smartfriendz github marlin, you should find at which pin i've plugged it ( i don't remember now ). Basically, i've found 3 pins not so far with a +5, ground and a signal. After that it works wonderfully.

BradStaff on Feb 19, 2014 said:

What is the official print area? It's different everywhere!

smartfriendz on Feb 19, 2014 said:

Hi BradStaff,
It's 150x150x150 with the rod's lengths in the BOM.
But you can adjust of course.

maxoutny on Feb 17, 2014 said:

Would you please let me know what servo (model and sources where I can get it) do you use for auto leveling?
Best regards and thank you for sharing your great work.

smartfriendz on Feb 17, 2014 said:

Hi maxoutny,

I use the basic model from pololu : http://www.pololu.com/product/...

Works perfectly. The servo holder is designed for it , so you're sure it works well.

SkyRider on Feb 16, 2014 said:

Serge,

I went to GitHub to grab the latest and greatest and all the files downloaded fine. However, when I tried to import the files into TinkerCAD (to clean them up for Repetier and Slic3r) or even to load them as-is into Repetier, I get an error that the file type could not be determined. Do you, or anyone else, know why?

Samer

smartfriendz on Feb 16, 2014 said:

Hi SkyRider,
Well, I don't understand why ? I use them myself all day because it's my main folder to print. Under windows, repetier, i load thoss stl files to print the production and i didn't have any problem with files so far.
Are you using the stl/release folder files ?

SkyRider on Feb 16, 2014 said:

You guys are making me want to rebuild my SmartRap all over again just so I have have the latest and greatest!!!!

raptor on Feb 16, 2014 said:

I've got my smartrap mostly done, but when I rotate the motors to test moving the axis, the fishing line does tighten, but nothing moves and it just seems to stretch the fishing line. I am using printed bushings so there is more resistance to movement, but the main concern is the fishing line is too stretchy.
Is there a recommended type of fishing line that I should be using?

raptor on Feb 16, 2014 said:

Actually don't worry. I changed the bushings to metal LM3UU bushings and the resistance to movement problem went away and the fishing line seems to work fine moving the axis now. It also might be because I overtightened a screw which caused the axis to be a bit too tight. I might try the old bushings later to see if it improves.

jellyb on Feb 15, 2014 said:

Hi Serge,
I've planned to build a smartrap, which is my first reprap and 3d printer. I'm really excited!
I'm collecting the materials now, but I was confused by the BOM, since there are many version of it.
Can you tell me what version is it in the assemble video (on youtube, with grey printed parts)? Is it the latest version(0.5?)?
I'm afraid that I would bought the materials (and printed parts) with different version of it.
If I bought 250mm,250mm,300mm for the smooth rods x,y,z respectively,
which length of threaded rod should I bought? and which size of glass is proper? ( Is it 3mm thick? )
How to connect the electronics board to the power supply?
Sorry for asking the simple questions.Thanks a lot!

smartfriendz on Feb 15, 2014 said:

Hi jellyb,
It's great if you want build a smartrap, i can be only happy about that .
The version you see in the video is the one from github actually. It is sitll not updated here because i want before to work on back compatibility with j-head and bowden cable with M4 nuts. The new version on github works with a full huxley hot-end which uses two brass inserts, not really easy to source.
It is of course simple to get the github files and work with it ( that's what i do ).
rods are : 240mm for X and Y axes and 300mm for Z
glass is : 220x180mm 3mm thick.
electronics board to power is very simple , you ned to read the ramps 1.4 documentation on reprap.org it's better explained there than i would do.
I hope all will be ok :)

raptor on Feb 15, 2014 said:

Where do you mount the endstop for the axis with the hotend on it?

smartfriendz on Feb 15, 2014 said:

It's behind now, there's a special part that takes the switch and mount on the servo. It's on the right, behind the head.

raptor on Feb 14, 2014 said:

When assembling the smartrap, for some reason, the axis which holds the j-head hotend seems to be rotated a little bit clockwise instead of it being exactly perpendicular. I've tried reprinting out the base which the z rods go into but it doesn't seem to resolve the issue. Do you know what could be wrong with my assembly? http://www.flickr.com/photos/t...

smartfriendz on Feb 14, 2014 said:

Hi raptor,
First, it looks good :) congrats !
I'm not sure but from my builds, this axis can easy be rotated by hand ( i do that always). When all is in place , i mean, when the fishing line is straight on, you can always turn the head , but it's a little hard and it should stays in place. So when it happend, i just turn it straight back.
It's not very important if the head is rotated ( but it looks odd i agree :) . What is important is that it stays in place ( same height ) all the print long.

JimYu on Feb 14, 2014 said:

Hi Serge,
I've been testing the latest version in Github recently. I really like the new endstop slot design which is much more convenient to use. As for the plate_base, It has become trickier to install the PTFE tube with the M4 nut. What's the advantage of the new holder for the tube?
Thanks again for the improvements!

My classmates and I have assembled around 10 Smartraps in Taiwan since January (each person got one). We have a lot of fun and really appreciate the effort you made on this project. Recently, more and more people asking us if they could get a Smartrap of their own. Would you mind us source and sell kits in Taiwan? How can we make some feedback to you? Sorry if I have some improper questions.

smartfriendz on Feb 14, 2014 said:

Hi JimYu,

Thank you for the comment and hey, it's so great you built so much Smartraps there !! This is all about this project. I'm very happy about that .
You can of course source yourself , make , and sell Smartraps there, I made this project GPL and that is for a reason : Sharing!!
I don't want to be the next makerbot or even printrbot. I do believe in this new business model where the global model can be better from anyone work, and if there's success, it's shared between all makers. everyone wins..even if it's a little less. That's good.
I'm also selling here in europa ( even USA and middle east) with smartfriendz.com and it goes well enough :) so everyone's happy.

Thank you for asking , it's nice from you.

The thing I find great to do is to write somewhere and tell everyone that Smartrap comes from here ( or smartfriendz.com , or reprap.org and is GPL !

About the model,
I'm sorry about the changes with the base plate, on github is our production version ( that's why it's still not updated here ). It is actually changed for a huxley hot-end which uses brass inserts at both sides of the bowden cable . You can see how it look on reprappro website, in documentation , on the hot-end part. It's using a little piece called the tongue to keep the tube in place.

For here, there will be those parts of course, but i want to integrate the changes in the j-head + m4 nut version, as it's more easy to source ( I think? ) .

Later, we will also make a version for pressfit 5/8, 5mm , etc..

And we still have lot of work.. 3mm filament, heated bed, led light, different drive systems ( rack&pinion), double head ? whatever ..

bringho on Feb 12, 2014 said:

I've started sourcing parts to build a SmartRap,
The BOM downloaded from Github (last updated 2 months ago) states that the needed 8mm rods are:

Smooth rod 8mm 2 x 240mm X axis for 150mm printable
Smooth rod 8mm 2 x 220mm Y axis for 150mm printable
Smooth rod 8mm 2 x 250mm Z axis for 100mm printable

Are these figures still valid?

smartfriendz on Feb 13, 2014 said:

Hi bringho,
I've just updated the BOM. it was indeed very old. sorry for that.

botbuilder1 on Feb 13, 2014 said:

There is a note about this on the smartrap wiki (http://reprap.org/wiki/Smartra....
Add approximately 90mm to the desired print area for x and y. I am planning on eventually using a heated bed, so I will cut mine to 290 and 270.

amramsey on Feb 13, 2014 said:

The rod lengths are completely up to you. Nothing in the printer is relying on a particular rod length. Cut them all at 250mm to make it easier.

gregpxc on Feb 13, 2014 said:

I would also like to know this. After watching the videos it looks like the board isn't necessary anymore either. Have the screws that are required changed either?

Laur on Feb 11, 2014 said:

Hi Serge, Great Project! Congrats.
Where is the latest update on parts here or on Github? They look quite different.
Can you post some pics with ver 05? Regards

smartfriendz on Feb 12, 2014 said:

Hi Laur,
Thank you .
Github has now the last production models. I will update here as it's stable enough. There will be updates, but now very little things.
I was waiting a little to update here because i want the videos ( in english) online and the documentation too, or it will be maybe too complicated to build like that ( even we have now around 15 successful builds from silly guys without doc ;-)

nepaholic on Feb 10, 2014 said:

Serge, can i still use the maritim filament skrews with the actual version? I printed them now and want to assemble

smartfriendz on Feb 11, 2014 said:

Hi nepaholic,

I think the maritim screw will be too far. The MK7 is 10mm diameter ( on the filament ) and maritime 7mm . I iwll make a version of base+plate for that. Thanks to remind me.

beavertank on Feb 10, 2014 said:

I was hoping to be able to modify "plate_x" to accept a slightly more robust leadscrew that I happen to have on hand, but the openscad file from github doesn't seem to produce the entire plate_x, only the base with LM8UU spaces. Is there somewhere I could find the editable file for that piece?

smartfriendz on Feb 10, 2014 said:

Hi beavertank,

Sorry for the openscad file. It's just a start and it's far from usuable.
All up to date files in github are in blender ! The all model is there in release.

It's updating everyday and soon here again for the last production model.

There's no real doc for the blender file, but basically, all printed parts are in layer one ( in green) and all booleans objects are in layer 16 ( wireframe).

Thank you

JimYu on Feb 7, 2014 said:

Hi Serge,
May I ask how the new servo holder works?
I have no idea how it should be mounted on the servo.
Thank you!

smartfriendz on Feb 7, 2014 said:

Hi JimYu,

Normally with a servo , you get 3 little white plastic holders. We use the simple straight one. With the new holder, you just insert this holder in the long part with a hole. It should just clip around. You can add a liiittle of glue there to be stronger.
The endstop should also clip in the other side . You will see there is a longer part than the other , so the switch come in place and can click . there's no screws anymore.

I will add a video this week end for this part ( still didn't do , sorry ).

JimYu on Feb 5, 2014 said:

Where can we get the new lm8 holders of plate_X in your youtube video?
They look pretty good!

smartfriendz on Feb 5, 2014 said:

Hi JimYu,

Well, since the video, i changed again and found a simplier solution with the actual lm8holder_X. The plate_x will be changed ( soon big update with the version you see in last video).
The problem with those holders. as with the Y axis is that they all share the same screw with the motor assembly... and that's bad ! because for the motor, you need to screw tight and for the lm8 you need to screw less tight, or it will block the axis ( constraint from printed parts where the pastic is not as rigid as metal). So i try to re-separate all without complicating too much the assembly.
So, the lm8holder_x as it is, is in fact better because you separate the motor screws from the lm8_holder and can have separate froces applied.

With last version , the X_holder is blocked by the plate_X, so with one screw it's really tight . ( update tonight or tomorrow).

Thank you,

Serge

gab0natchi on Feb 5, 2014 said:

Hi! Can I use this controller on smartrap? http://goo.gl/SS6fdZ Sorry for the newbie question.

JimYu on Feb 5, 2014 said:

YES, this is the most popular one.

Anonymous on Feb 2, 2014 said:

In this video, you screw the motors into the base: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...

You don't have the size of those screws in your BOM and I don't speak French. I'm guessing that they're M3 x 60. Is that true?

smartfriendz on Feb 2, 2014 said:

Hi Al,
I'm sorry for the French, i'm working on captions in english ( I will later redo the assembly in english, but maybe captions are ok for now ).
It's M4 x 60 .
I really need to work on this BOM too !
Thank you

qtrain23 on Feb 1, 2014 said:

what servo are you using?

smartfriendz on Feb 1, 2014 said:

Hi qtrain.
I use very basic , if not the most basic servos 3.9g . for example the basic blue from pololu .

qtrain23 on Feb 1, 2014 said:

and do you have a better listing of the hardware?

LenR on Feb 1, 2014 said:

I ordered a set of parts that will be made after the update to the glass holder. There are three printers that I am liking, for different reasons, the Smartrap, the Mini Kossel and the Tantillus. All three can be driven with the fishing line which seems like a good solution. Unfortunately my steppers all have a flat on one side of the drive shaft so it will need a little drum to even it out, I'll look around Thingiverse and see what is available.

SkyRider on Feb 1, 2014 said:

There are several. Here is one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

JimYu on Feb 1, 2014 said:

I'm so satisfied with the compact and low-cost design of Smartrap. It's working really well after a month of tuning.
I have a question about the endstop mounted on the plate_base. It has been designed to be on the left side, but this would made the printing mirrored (either the x or y axis is in the wrong direction).
My correction is connecting the endstop as the MAX endstop and inverting the homing direction. Is there any misunderstanding about the designed?

smartfriendz on Feb 1, 2014 said:

Hi JimYu,
Thank you, you did a wonderful work.
About the endstop Y, it is normally a min Y ? so i don't know where the problem comes from ?

jpan on Jan 31, 2014 said:

I really don't want to use fishing line...... Actually I hate it.... I'm sorry... I really like your design and want to make one.

smartfriendz on Jan 31, 2014 said:

Hi jpan,

Ho, that's indeed a problem :( . Can i know why you hate it ? ( i didn't use before this project , but i use it now for one month and printed 3 kg pla and it didn't make any problem ! ) . It's interesting to know the bad side.
I have in plans to be able to use also gt2 belts and printed rack&pinion, but it's not ready.
About the belts, I need a little redesign to be able to put one..or two bearings around the motor shaft, to tighten the belt. Then it would be really usable . I really would like to have all options .
rack and pinion are more close , i redesigned the existing one and it's allmost integrated ( with the same parts for all solutions).

Thank you for the compliment :)

qtfp on Jan 31, 2014 said:

Hello,
When I actually did buy a 170x150x4mm glass, I found I can't put it on the y holder. I measured the holder high for the glass, it was 3mm. So you actually modified to 3mm, right?
Thanks!

smartfriendz on Jan 31, 2014 said:

Hi qtfp,
I checked and yes , i see this version is 3mm high. But it is a bug. I will update for 4mm.
Note that it will be updated soon ( maybe today ?) with a new version where we have shorter end_y. We will need larger bed, It is for a more compatible system where we can easy add a heated bed like an mk2 board.
All actual files will be available in github under 0,4,6 version anyway.
Also, there will be some screws to press the plate , it is actually a little too much free and the glass can move too easy when we print small parts with lot of movements.

sascham on Jan 28, 2014 said:

Hi
Was planning to try your printer but saw you plan a "v2" to release any day.
Any ETA ? So i not need to print twice :)

Thanks

smartfriendz on Jan 31, 2014 said:

Hi sasham,
We won't update to a V2 right now , as a new design need lot of time to be really usable ( lot of little details to adjust). But we are going to update this version for production again. Every part have changed again , for a better experience and stability.
You're right to take care of your prints. I feel guilty each time i update those models .. sorry to all for the plastic loss !

amramsey on Jan 27, 2014 said:

What startup gcode are you using for the auto-calibrate on z-axis? Just a 'G29' to do the probe, or is there something more that needs to be done?

smartfriendz on Jan 27, 2014 said:

Hi amramsey,

I'm using a config i'm happy with now .. here it is :

---
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0];set extruder temp and start heating

G28 X0 Y0 ;home X and Y

G29 ;probe bed

G90; set absolute coordinates

G92 E0; reset extruder distance

G1 X10 Y10 F3000 ; move to back right corner

---

It's also in slic3r setting on github.

pinoseko on Jan 26, 2014 said:

Other cuestion. Wich programs do we need for the printer? only slic3r and pronterface, or anything else?

SkyRider on Jan 27, 2014 said:

Pr0nterface and Slic3r, or Repetier and Slic3r. Check with Serge what he is specifically using.

pinoseko on Jan 26, 2014 said:

Thanks for the answer , i have already bought the 42BYGHW811 model because is not expensive.

pinoseko on Jan 24, 2014 said:

hi again, i have a doubt with the nema 17 motor, i hAVE FOUND DIFERENTS MODELS of nema 17, is it any correct for this proyect or only the 42BYGHW811?

SkyRider on Jan 24, 2014 said:

Find the sort that are 4 wire, with the highest holding torque. Why the highest? Because as you upgrade and use different length rods, you want to maximize the torque so that you only spend time replacing plastic parts, not electronic ones.
Samer

BradStaff on Jan 23, 2014 said:

I have yet to find a list of the parts that you actually need for this. I plan to self source it myself. Any help? The more thorough the better.

krummrey on Jan 23, 2014 said:

I made a google spreadsheet with a BOM
https://docs.google.com/spread...

raptor on Jan 23, 2014 said:

There is a list in the Things Files downloads.

pinoseko on Jan 22, 2014 said:

Hi, i have a doubt, wich controller do you recommend?
and wich hot and J-head?

smartfriendz on Jan 22, 2014 said:

Hi pinoseko,

Well, we are now using ramps 1.4 as it's the most standard in reprap community, but any controler would work.
ramps, megatronics,minitronics are working for sure as we ahve seen ourselve working ( especially with the auto-levelling).

qtfp on Jan 22, 2014 said:

Hello,
I like your design, but I have a question. What's the dimension of the glass of your default design? The X rod is 240, Y rod is 220. What's the thickness?
Is that 170*150*4?
Thanks!

smartfriendz on Jan 22, 2014 said:

Hi qtfp,
Thank you :)
Yes , the actual models are made for exactly this size.
There will be a parametric model at a time, so we can change the thickness of the glass easy. For now, you need to change it in blender and export if necessary.

Serge

qtrain23 on Jan 21, 2014 said:

Thanks for the help so far guys. Another question, are you using just microswitches or are you using endstops like these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/300949...

SkyRider on Jan 22, 2014 said:

IMHO those should do just fine. All you really need is a set of tap switches, which you can get at RadioShack or similar at any time.

SkyRider on Jan 21, 2014 said:

Some of you may have issues getting the LM8UU bearings to sit tight and unmoving on Plate X with the LM8U Holder X. This is because some warping is inevitable depending on what material was used to print (PLA or ABS) and much flexure you get on the holder/restraint. In the past, to get rid of this slop, I refactored Plate X, which reduced the part count, but also gave me some bearing options (my first version is using pillow blocks with embedded LM8UU bearings). That being said, not all of you will have these options and might not care for the additional weight. To get around this problem, I found that the blue tape you buy at the hardware store is a sufficient remedy. Wrap a strip around the *entire* bearing and trim it. In my case, 3 wraps did the job on each of the 4 bearings. That 'fattened' the bearing the necessary amount to get clamped down tight by the Holder. Make sure you screw the holder down so that its surfaces are in contact with Plate X where the screws are. That exerts the necessary pressure to keep the bearings immobilized. In the future, the Holder should be modified to match the contours of the bearing, including the location of the slot rings so that C-clips can be inserted to clamp it down firmly. The reason we want to do this is wear and tear. Over time, I think that the Holder will be subject to sufficient cycles to eventually put the slop back into the bearings. Something more form fitting would eliminate that. However, that is a long way off and realistically, I could always print standby Holders for later (and I have).

Samer

smartfriendz on Jan 21, 2014 said:

Thank you Samer. This plate_x needs definitely a redesign! Too much plastic to have enventually bearings not tight is the proof of a design problem.
I'm on it . But it's the third version and still not good! damned. The constraints for me are :
- simple to assemble
- tight
- minimum plastic
- no screw ( if possible)
- easy printable on all printers , so no need for ultra precision.

Maybe that's why it's hard to find a good one ?

Actually, with the last version, there's way too much screws, but it's tight with me .

tomhowbridge on Jan 21, 2014 said:

Thanks SkyRider your contributions have realy helped me so ,so how much should the printed parts cost ether from a repraper (eBay) or from a 3d print service . I was looking for a quote and from one site it was a 2.99 gbp

tomhowbridge on Jan 21, 2014 said:

But to get a realistic qote it needs all the parts to be one .stl

SkyRider on Jan 20, 2014 said:

At least one person has asked me to post my print of the current version when I was done this weekend. I had thought that I would end up with me original (modified) SmartRap, the stock SmartRap (for comparison, I bought a set of parts from crunch), and this version. I was wrong. I will post in my 'I made it' set shortly, but here are the things to consider:

1) Some parts do not slice right in Slic3r depending on what printer you have and how your software is set up. In my case, I found that I needed to put Plate X and Plate Base through TinkerCAD for Repetier/Slic3r to recognize the part right. I need not have bothered. I compared the parts from crunch against mine and the those parts are unchanged. Ok, there is one change, but it's not significant enough to warrant a reprint. Plate X has changed where the M5 rod goes. You can accommodate the effects by widening the gap at the base of that tab and securing your nut in the slot in that tab rather than reprint the whole thing. In any case, I had no trouble putting my threaded rod and solidly securing (just with friction) a suitable nut. I am using a piece of 3/16" threaded rod and nut from Home Depot.
2) The parts in grey parts are the original parts. I compared those in terms of dimensions, hole sizes and positions and overall shape. The white parts are the parts that have changed, most notably the parts that hold the bed. Those have the 'arms' offset and are very different from the original.

Some of you with 'D' shaped shafts on your servos should print and use the filament spool instead of winding the fishing line on the shaft. This part ensures no errors in linear motion due to the flat part of the stepper motor shaft.

I will assemble the unit tonight or tomorrow and post a photo as well.

Samer

qtrain23 on Jan 20, 2014 said:

What is the recommended drive gear for the extruder? the one in the BOM doesn't match the one pic above.

SkyRider on Jan 20, 2014 said:

I totally agree with Serge. If you are in the US and impatient, you are more likely to find a Mk7 Gear than a Mk8. Keep in mind that with the bearing the the gear AND the bearing will be very tight together and you would be well served to mount the bearing FIRST (so that you do not overstress the shaft it is on) and then mount the gear to the motor and THEN attach the motor. If, in use, you break the shaft on which the bearing is installed, drill out the remainder of the shaft and install a suitable bolt letting it tap the hole. Put in some epoxy to keep the bolt from moving because you cannot put a nut there as no matter what you do, you do not want anything sticking out from under the base plate.

Samer

smartfriendz on Jan 20, 2014 said:

Ho yes. my bad, the last version where updated to an more standard mk7 gear. It's more easy to source than maritine brass insert.

SkyRider on Jan 20, 2014 said:

Serge,

Can I get you to put out a generic Z coupler to handle standard 5mm stepper shafts and make the threaded rod hole small that can be widened with a drill? 2 grub screw holes and slots for nuts (say m2.5) would work.

Samer

smartfriendz on Jan 20, 2014 said:

Hi Samer,
Funny you talk about that :) i was just thinking about to make one. smaller and without FOUR screws and nuts :) maybe a very simple one ?
I'll try .

tomhowbridge on Jan 19, 2014 said:

What are the specs of the motors so I don't over spend

SkyRider on Jan 20, 2014 said:

I am using NEMA 17 motors. I like to go all out with all my motors, just in case. Keep in mind you are pulling filament through a tube, so that motor need not be the weakest. Generally speaking, the cost differential in these motors makes it possible to upgrade and reconfigure the printer without replacing the electronics. Be sure to get the 4 wire motors. You can use the 6 or 8 wire, but you will be leaving wires unused, and that just makes it a pain. Generally, you get get motors from Inventables or anywhere on eBay or SparkFun or any dead laser printer you can get your hands on. Remember you need the 1.8 degree step motors.

Samer

qtrain23 on Jan 18, 2014 said:

Exactly what board do I need for this? Can someone link me?

smartfriendz on Jan 18, 2014 said:

i qtrain,
Any board known to work with the marlin firmware will work.
We choose the classical ramps 1.4 actually, because it's arduino, because it's the most known ans community supported right now .
Thank you

SkyRider on Jan 18, 2014 said:

I am using a RAMPS 1.4 which you can get just about anywhere. You can get them on eBay or at Inventables.com or just about anywhere else. Basically, it's an Arduino with a motor controller and GRBL loaded.

pcchameleon on Jan 18, 2014 said:

Hello,

I'm currently building this reprap but it is hard to source 4mm plate glass in the USA. I wanting to use 2.4mm Lexan as the printing surface. I'm trying to modify the y front and back parts using the scad file on github but OpenSCAD will not render the file correctly. What program are you using for the scad file?

Thanks,

Pcchameleon

SkyRider on Jan 18, 2014 said:

Actually you can order borosilicate that works fine. I'm also using ordinary lexan sheet from Home Depot. I cut it on my mini table saw. If you double up a strip at the mounts it sits nicely. I also modified the parts on TinkerCAD with ease and in fact corrected some things by importing as is and exporting as is.

SkyRider on Jan 17, 2014 said:

Serge! It's getting harder and harder to keep up with you ;-)

smartfriendz on Jan 17, 2014 said:

Hi SkyRider,
oops, you mean it's updating too often ?

The bad news is : i have under here a biiig update with new design. Should i start another smartrap v2 thing maybe ?
It's a result of our tests with the current model and production printing . It's still too hard to build and too dificult to print in my opinion.
The changes would be big: new integrated , printed pla bushing ( with external bushing in option later), new disposition ( all motors in a row with z axis in front ) , printed racks and pinion ( with fishing line still ready on the same model) ... well, an all new model in fact.
The benefit is : more stable, more LEGO like ( it's our main design idea), more easy to build, better flow to print , ready to expand size ( especially Y axis), and more organic.
Now i'm scared to put those changes here .. people will get crazy i'm afraid.
If interested persons can tell me what they feel ? update here? or new smartrap2 thing ?
Sorry for those changes .. it's just because we are working on the production model and all changes come from problems we had while building or using the printer.

evamvid on Jan 14, 2014 said:

How can I adapt this to fit a wooden bed (which will have a heatbed attached)?

smartfriendz on Jan 14, 2014 said:

Hi evamvid,

The servo you gave in link is a standard servo and normally it iwll be too big. I use the micro servo. you will find it on the same website. The one at $5.5 looks perfect.

sdfenimore on Jan 13, 2014 said:

Can i ask what the dimensions of the glass build plate?

smartfriendz on Jan 13, 2014 said:

Hi sdfenimore,
The constraint for the glass plate size is the relation between Y and X rods and the Y and X size .
For 220mm rods X and Y we have a 150x150mm glass plate.
The actual model wait for a 4mm thick glass ( Y_ends).
Thank you

evamvid on Jan 12, 2014 said:

When will we see 3mm support? I'm delaying purchasing extruder parts?

KrisMessyhair on Jan 12, 2014 said:

Hi Evamvid, I am currently experimenting with a 3mm J Head. I will let you know when I am done with my refinements to see if they suit your build.

JimYu on Jan 11, 2014 said:

I've almost done with my smartrap. I got the latest marlin and set the configurations, everything seems fine but the bed leveling function. It will only do the probing on the X0 Y0 instead of three points as it should. Anyone know how to solve this problem? Thanks in advance!

JimYu on Jan 11, 2014 said:

Sorry, I found out G29 is what I need.
My Smartrap is running! COOL!

GabrielHunag on Jan 10, 2014 said:

Just curious how does D shape motor shaft cross section gets compensated? Do I need to intentionally choice motor shaft which is round cross section?

smartfriendz on Jan 10, 2014 said:

Hi Gabriel,
I didn't think about D shaped motors :( I've never had, maybe that's why ?
So yes, it is thought with round cross section.
I'm sure there is a way to adapt to a D shaped, but it needs some kind of adaptor, not slipping..
thank you.

nepaholic on Jan 10, 2014 said:

hi serge
printed all the parts for me and a friend and we want to start building next week. How long have to be the rods to get a 20x20cm printer?
cheers
jens

smartfriendz on Jan 10, 2014 said:

Hi jens,

Well, that would be 270mm for Y axis and around 300mm for X axis.

Thank you

zpj on Jan 7, 2014 said:

Wow

crunchtime2k on Jan 5, 2014 said:

Hi , sorry about the delay , i have put a printed parts kit for this on ebay for cheap, i am us based. If it sells i will make more. Just doing this to help out the people that dont have a printer

SkyRider on Jan 7, 2014 said:

Hi Crunchtime2K,

I just bought a set to compare to mine. My LM8UU clamps never seem to be able to hold down the bearings without moving. I will use yours to build a 'control' machine to compare against my remix. Thanks for putting it out there. The pricing is very reasonable.

Samer

smartfriendz on Jan 5, 2014 said:

Hi crunchtime,
Looks good, thank you. It's great !

evamvid on Jan 5, 2014 said:

What version are we at? I'm a little confused...

:)

Also, is the z-probe functional? Are we close to R+P Drives?

smartfriendz on Jan 5, 2014 said:

Hi evamvid,
I started to remove "versioning" like we are used to see in standard products. Internally, i'm at 0.4.6 , but now , we enter in the living mode , which means we will constantly updating, but with compatible new versions. We can print this actual version, and update with new designs at any time , when you feel it's worth it. On our side, we do all we can to make the new parts working with the actual "base".
The z-probe is totally functional . You can see it working in video links . we just implemented the marlin version "as is" and it works very well. The good part to do that is that we will benefit from marlin updates without doing extra work on our side.

Rack and pinion are still in the list, but we are now busy with debugging and adjusting this version to be sure we have a really good quality base people can load and build . Also , we are starting to source and assemble the few kits from indiegogo campaign to deliver in time.
I believe we will finalise R+P version in february only . It should be an option with fishing line , so people can choose what to use .

Thank you

nic0laz on Jan 4, 2014 said:

HI!, is there a template for drilling the board?.

Also, i dont get how the spectra lines get tensioned.

Great work, as soon as i finish another project i will build one and contribute back!

JimYu on Jan 4, 2014 said:

I found the fishing line video on Vimeo. Pretty easy, just check it out!!

evamvid on Jan 4, 2014 said:

Should the M4 bolts mentioned on the BOM for securing the bowden tube also be nuts?

And is the product at http://seemecnc.com/collection... and http://seemecnc.com/collection... compatible? (obviously only the smaller one for now because only 1.75mm filament)

This seems like it would be a relatively inexpensive way to make it easier to remove the bowden tube for mantainence...

smartfriendz on Jan 4, 2014 said:

Hi evamvid,
Yes, it hsould be nuts. will update. Thank you for correcting me.
Those pressfits will be integrated . I just ordered some, but i made a mistake and took the one with imperial screw around 8mm :(
base plate and endx_jhead will be opdated to take those, it's more easy to setup than threading the bowden cable.

nepaholic on Jan 3, 2014 said:

how about cooling the j-head clone? read a lot that they have to be cooled when printing PLA

sdfenimore on Jan 3, 2014 said:

Ok, this is going to sound like a stupid question, but if i do not ask, i will sit here scratching my head for days.. The X and Y axis.. the fishing line is just wrapped around the post on the motor? nothing needed?

smartfriendz on Jan 3, 2014 said:

Hi sdfenimore,
Well, yes. i just wrap the line around the motor's axis, but 7 or 8 times ! under it could slip. With 8 turns and the tensioners, it really doesn't move . Maybe take care to sand a little the axis ? I didn't try but i thought about that this morning :)

crunchtime2k on Jan 1, 2014 said:

i will be making a kit for you guys and throwing it on ebay later tonight for a low price.

smartfriendz on Jan 1, 2014 said:

Hi crunch,
Sounds good, i will buy you 10 . I need some :)

evamvid on Jan 1, 2014 said:

For bigger build volumes (i.e 200x200x200 and up), would it make more sense to move to M12 Rods and bearings to prevent the printhead from sagging?

smartfriendz on Jan 1, 2014 said:

I think the problem with bigger size will be om x_axis ( as anyone can imagine easy ). I would better go to aluminium rods and make it as light as i can than going to heavy 12mm.
The last design of plate_x makes it definitely more stable, i will test but i think it goes easy to 200mm.

evamvid on Jan 1, 2014 said:

Has anyone thought about integrating printed bushings? I think Serge said somewhere that printed bushings weren't working so well for him. Serge, which thing did you use?

Can I reccomend http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... Jspark included a video which shows them working pretty well.

smartfriendz on Jan 1, 2014 said:

Hi evamvid,
In fact, i eventually had good result ( with a litle oil) and for now i'm happy with printed bushing.. BUT, i'm not sure about how long it keeps going well . Need more time and more test. I'm curious what happend when it becomes old, and if it can block the all axis. So for now, i keep using standard lm8uu , for safety reasons :)

JimYu on Dec 31, 2013 said:

Happy New Year, Serge! Thanks for making this great machine. Is it OK if I build the print size as 250mm x 200mm x 150mm?

Will a 5mm glass bed weight too much for the fishing line on this size?

JimYu on Jan 1, 2014 said:

Another question, I can't find the other end_x part on this page. Is it OK to use the "x_end.stl" in the "old" folder from github?

marcething on Dec 30, 2013 said:

maybe I missed it, but what electronic board is used?

Did you make a special firmware for the Smartrap or how do you include the Auto levelling bed ?

Marc

smartfriendz on Dec 30, 2013 said:

Hi Marc,

The board you see on videos is a megatronics V2, but on our kits, it will be more a ramps1.4 .
I didn't do any special firmware , I just used the last marlin which integrate this auto levelling bed system.
In all case, there will be soon on github the all config for marlin and slic3r ( i use it with repetier host, but i guess it's the same in all hosts).

JimYu on Dec 30, 2013 said:

Do you recommend using aluminum rods for the x-axis?

SkyRider on Dec 30, 2013 said:

Practically speaking, IMO, it depends on the alloy the rods are made of and whether you use bearings or bushings. If you are using plastic or metal smooth bushings and the rods are solid, or close to it that they will resist bending forces, then yes. If you choose to use linear bearings like the LM8UU bearings, then no. They ball bearings will easily wear grooves in the rod and eventually introduce slop in your travel. Serge might have other thoughts, but that's my experience with these things. I generally use hardened steep rods. If you are able, gather up all the dead inkjet and laser printers you can get your hands on and tear them apart collecting all those beautiful rods. Generally speaking each printer and/or scanner will have 1 to 4 useful rods (don't bother with ones that holes or ridges in the middle). Match the rods to the bearings or bushings to determine what you use on which axis. So long as they fit, you'll be fine.

evamvid on Dec 29, 2013 said:

What is the length for the M5 Bolt that goes in the side of plate_x?

SkyRider on Dec 29, 2013 said:

I think my response vanished, so I will try again. It's not an M5 bolt, it's an M5 *nut*. It goes into the little slot on the side of the X-Plate and the threaded rod goes through it. You can use 3/8 or 1/4" threaded rod and a low profile nut to make this work. Those are close enough to M5 rods if you can't find metric components or don't want to wait on them from Amazon.

Samer

SkyRider on Dec 29, 2013 said:

It's not really a bolt as much as it is threaded rod. I am using ordinary Home Depot threaded rod (3/8 or smaller will work fine). You will need to insert the nut in the x-plate, so you will need a low profile nut or a square nut.

SkyRider on Dec 29, 2013 said:

Serge,

A question: the file bottom_z_extruder goes where? Is there a a part that is supposed to hold the hot end to the xJHead?

Samer

SkyRider on Dec 27, 2013 said:

Serge,

Have a look at the V4 of my X-Plate remix and tell me what you think. I must have printed 5 or 6 versions of this thing so far in various shapes and forms and this one seems to be the best. I did my best to preserve your existing geometry.

smartfriendz on Dec 27, 2013 said:

Hi Samen,
Wow, they look very strong now. I will try a version here too. I'm not sure i will integrate them in the main design because it seems ...a little too strong to me ? I know it's crazy as it's cannot be "too" strong :)
You just make me try my holders largers and biggers, You point out that this part needs more work anyway, and you're totaly right !
Thank you for your work.. i see you spent lot of time on it.
Your version is already a good option anyway, it's great to have choice !

nepaholic on Dec 26, 2013 said:

Serge, since the smartrap is for 1.75 filament I need to source some parts. What filament skrew will work? Mk8?

smartfriendz on Dec 26, 2013 said:

Hi nepaholic,

Mk8 will do as the design works with a 7mm diameter screw,
I've just sourced some mk7 as it seems to be a standard. Problem is 10mm working diameter, so we can't go further with the bearing on the actual design. There's not enough space.
This will lead us to a new plate_base version i think, with reversed extruder part again ( the other side of the motor). That will let us enough space to have all options ( mk7 mk8 1,75mm 3mm filament). I will just separate the bearing holder , assembled with a M3 passing through the plate. There will be a large hole with some grip system to adjust to all options.
thank you

Le-Seaw on Dec 26, 2013 said:

Hi Serge,
where have you buy your Servo?

smartfriendz on Dec 26, 2013 said:

Hi Le-Seaw,

The one you see on videos was in home for a long time, but it's a standard micro servo used for modelism.

I intend to use the pololu classic one : http://www.pololu.com/product/... . It's cheap and it really don't need any strength ( only the switch to move .

SkyRider on Dec 23, 2013 said:

I'm having a LOT of trouble printing the plate_base STL file. I get the basic piece, but the filament passageways and the extruder 'head' (basically anything that rises above the surface of the plate) will not print properly. Does anyone have a Solidoodle compatible GCode file I can try? I even uploaded the file to Shapeways to see if that would work out, but Shapeways complains of walls that are too thin (in the same areas). Ponoko complains that there are non manifold mesh errors and won't accept it. Can someone suggest a solution? Perhaps an older version of this file would work out better?

smartfriendz on Dec 23, 2013 said:

Hi Samen,
We have had some troubles with this plate_base. But with the last version, the model passed the usual tests with netfabb.
I will test further . Sorry for the trouble.

OCybress on Dec 22, 2013 said:

A friend Is shipping me a new hotend, so I will be able to print the newest revision. How stable is this current version wobbles? Shakes etc.

I backed a kickstarter project a while back called microduino, really small arduino board. When fall term starts I thnk I will be ordering the stepper drivers that they make as well. Might even design a shield for this core to fit this printer i will let you know if i go any further on this project (the shield that is, ramps mini maybe ? )

smartfriendz on Dec 22, 2013 said:

Hi OCybress,
This last version is very stable with the updated parts , especially on the X axis. The Y axis where always very stable though.
We decided to use ramps 1.4 eventually. It's really the most open and standard .
Thank you

OCybress on Dec 22, 2013 said:

Oh and what is the thickness of the glass bed?

SkyRider on Dec 21, 2013 said:

One thing I am noticing as missing are the couplers for the motors and the pulleys to enable movement. These parts are the frame, but the moving (i.e. turning) parts are not here. The design does lend itself to use linear rails like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
There's also a Printable XY Linear Rail I downloaded some time ago that would work. The toothed rail would mount to the table and the motor (being in the middle between the 8mm rods) would move it back and forth.

And if using belts and pulleys, parts like this:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Nonetheless, some view of the STLs for the parts for the actual motion (pulleys, wheels, etc.) would be very helpful!

Thanks,

Samer

smartfriendz on Dec 22, 2013 said:

Hi samen,
It's my fault to don't explain it right for now. We miss good documentation because we where more focused on finishing the design. There is actually everything to make the printer work : we use fishing line for X and Y axis and we use a comon coupler (5mm to 5mm) for X axis.
About the printed rail, it's planned for a very next version. It seems to work very well :)
Thank you

krummrey on Dec 21, 2013 said:

WOW, Lot's of improvements in v0.5. Great to see the project developing.

While I like the idea of the automated bed leveling, it contradicts the "make the most simple 3d-printer" theme. Having screws, springs and bolts to level the bed isn't really simpler, but having a servo seems a little overrated to me. Couldn't you just flip the end-stop down by hand for calibration and then flipp it back up before the print starts? Or take the last calibration settings? It's not completely automatic, but I wouldn't expect that from a "simple" printer.

It makes a great add-on though! :D

smartfriendz on Dec 22, 2013 said:

Hi krummrey.
You're right, I asked also myself if a servo would not make the thing too complicated too. But now i've seen it working, I think we eventually win globally because i could make the all bed part more simple ( just place to put the glass on ). This version of the servo is just a copy of other's design. I'm going to integrate it better and more simple to install ( just one screw ). For the price, it's good too, as those servos cost around $5.
Thank you

OCybress on Dec 17, 2013 said:

I am so close to building this thing, my main printer just started throwing fits.. and I am tired of having to pull the entire extruder body off the x axis to fix it. I need a MK8 or equivalent drive gear located in the US, and cant seem to find any on ebay. Have any suggestions? Are the holes from the extruder big enough to allow 3mm filament as that's all I have at the moment, and If i butcher my current 3d printer for the steppers and the hot end I can have this thing built in no time.

Oh and ware do you get your bowden parts, I have never messed with bowden and don't know ware to or what to get for the top of the hot end and for the other end.

Thanks.

smartfriendz on Dec 17, 2013 said:

Hi OCybress,

Thank you for your interest in this project.
It is true i've seen the maritime brass insert only in europa. Strangely.
It's only the beginning of this model, so we miss options for different sources around the world. That will come i'm sure.
MK8 should work direct, as it's 7mm diameter, like the brass insert i've used. MK7 not, because it's 10mm.
I didn't test with 3mm for now (even i have some) , i believe it's possible of course. It needs some bigger holes and another bowden tube. I will test soon now ( was busy with the next update).
About the two ends of the bowden tube, i just thread them (easy to do) and put a M4 bolt. The support is made for this option.
Very soon will be pneumatic support (with 5 or 8mm threaded holes).
Thank you

OCybress on Dec 17, 2013 said:

and at what speed does this printer print stable? I would assume with a bowden it can get going pretty fast. I have a PMI2 and its quality is getting a bit off.

evamvid on Dec 17, 2013 said:

How far are we from 0.5? I'm excited for an R&P system!

smartfriendz on Dec 17, 2013 said:

Hi evamvid,
Well, i would love to see it already too, but i thought the auto leveling bed system was more important for this design (simplicity) than the rack and pinion. Fishing line works well and with those tensioners, it is made really more easy.
But it will come, no doubt !
You have seen there wasn't update for a week now, I was also testing and consolidating the model a little everywhere. That takes always lot of time ( design-print-assemble-test-disasemble loop ). All will be updated before end of this week.
Thank you

ChristianSi on Dec 15, 2013 said:

Very nice, but I'm an easily confused guy and have a few questions:

1. Which STLs should I print, those from here or those from Github? Github stl dir contains several subdirs, latest would be V0.5 but that seems to be work in progress (very few files).
2. Do I need just one of each STL or are there some to print multiple times?
3. What's the recommended thickness for the wooden base plate and the bed plate?
4. An "all printed structure" is announced somewhere, that means without wooden base, I suppose? Any plans on when that'll be ready?

Thanks and keep up the great work!

smartfriendz on Dec 15, 2013 said:

Hi ChristianSi,

I understand you're confused, it's true the github is messy right now. The best is to take the files here. They are the release version.

1- I'm working on github to make more standard folders _> release, development, old (there will be some versions).
2- You're right, I should put the num in the file name like other do, we need 2 of the fishline_holder , all the rest is printed once.
3- I use 8mm polywood, it's very enough. I think 6mm would do it too
4- This version is in test here ( with a very nice surprise about auto-levelling bed too). But now there is more people following the project and printing ( thanks to all by the way), i prefer to update or change files only when it's good tested here, so there's less bugs and less lost PLA for everyone. ( i hate loosing PLA from someone else because i did a bug or bad tested a version). So , it should come this week. It is indeed very much like the 0.4.6 pictures you see. No more wood or aluminium, but still rods, motors , hotend and electronics :)

Thank you for the compliment .

Serge

ltNitro on Dec 15, 2013 said:

Is there a better BOM coming?

smartfriendz on Dec 15, 2013 said:

Hi ItNItro,
Yes. i'm working on a more detailled bom. In table form so you can check what is missing. Sorry for the delay, i was working on a nice update.

OCybress on Dec 12, 2013 said:

Plate_base.stl for v4.5 is broken on github. Wont load into slicer.

smartfriendz on Dec 12, 2013 said:

Oops. sorry about that. i'm checking right now. Netfabb says it's not closed. I will certainly update in a few moment.

flow on Dec 12, 2013 said:

Repair it via netfabb and you're good to go.

OCybress on Dec 12, 2013 said:

I have a few questions, Can you make a template for the wooden base (for drill holes?), Exactly what extruder gear are you using? and what fittings are you using for your bowden setup?

Thanks.
Great project btw, just need steppers and I will have one up and running.

smartfriendz on Dec 12, 2013 said:

Hi OCybress,
Thank you for your comment.
It's a good idea to make a template for the wood. I didn't do because the size of this plate is open to adapt any electronic controller you may have at home. The only thing to do is to drill those two holes for the Z-axis rods and the best way to do is to use the plate_base as a template , so you're certain the holes are in the right position.
I'm just updating this part to add two small holders fixed on the plank. That would let us to adjust the z-rods to be perfectly adjusted. Actually, if there's a mistake while drilling, it will be wrong and we will need to start a new plank! not good.
Update coming today or tomorrow.

The extruder gear is a brass insert with 7mm diameter active. So an mk8 will do too or any gear at 7mm diameter.
I'm working on a 10mm diameter, for MK7.

evamvid on Dec 11, 2013 said:

How much is lost on the z-rods? How long would they need to be for a 200mm height?

smartfriendz on Dec 12, 2013 said:

Hi evamvid,

The z axis is where we loose the most length. The bed is at 95mm from the ground. so for 200mm high printing, we need around 300mm z rods.

thank you.

hwiguna on Dec 9, 2013 said:

Hi Serge,
I do not see Z threaded rod on the BOM pdf that is in thingiverse. That's still needed, right? A little shorter than the Z smooth rod?

smartfriendz on Dec 9, 2013 said:

Hi hwiguna,
Thank you. I will update the BOM . For 250mm z we need a M5 of 170mm ( and a bolt to insert in plate_X).

flow on Dec 9, 2013 said:

Your lm8 base holders don`t fit with latest base x and base y.

smartfriendz on Dec 9, 2013 said:

Ho maybe you talk about the github version ? I will check .
There is a ongoing 0.4.6 version with lot of changes. One of them is a changing position of the Y motor, to let more space for the screw on the lm8 holders ( they are too tight in this 0.4.5 version).
For the files here, you made me check all and i realised i did a mistake : there was 2 plate_base and no more plate_X. Sorry for that. Now it's repaired (and all checked back ).
Thank you

smarcks on Dec 9, 2013 said:

nice design! is it possible you could lay some of the pieces down flat for easier printing?

smartfriendz on Dec 9, 2013 said:

Thank you smarcks,

Yes, it's not nice to don't prepare the stl files better (ready to print). I'm working on that, but from blender it's a little complicated without script.
As i'm working on a parametric model, it will be more easy to export all well oriented..as well as plates.
Coming soon :)

nepaholic on Dec 9, 2013 said:

you have to rotate them in a program like netfab. works good

nepaholic on Dec 8, 2013 said:

Serge, i have trouble with the x plate. the holder for the z axis bearings are to big for me. the bearings are very loose inside. maybe 1mm... have you the same problem? i use the new updated part from today...

hwiguna on Dec 8, 2013 said:

Z bearings are loose for me also. According to my caliper the inside diameter is 15.4mm. The actual bearing diameter is 15mm. Serge probably meant to subtract instead of add 04.mm from the bearing diameter. :-)

smartfriendz on Dec 8, 2013 said:

Ho, damed. I just checked and see i let some tests in the today version :( . Sorry about that. I was testing for the parametric model i started to how much we can go before being loose. So those holes are at 15.8mm. way too large.
I will update with a 15mm version in the next minutes.
While i was testing, i used some blue tape around the bearings to make them tight ( maybe it can help for this print ? )
Thank you for the feedback

hwiguna on Dec 8, 2013 said:

Serge,
Just want to report a minor issue I discovered...
I've just printed plate_x.stl and one of the LM8UU groove is a bit too short. The other three even have some "tolerance" but one of them is shorter than the other three grooves. You can see it in this screenshot.
http://imgur.com/U93PdV2

I like the the clamp design!
=Hari=

smartfriendz on Dec 8, 2013 said:

I've updated the new plate_x . It was indeed a bug. I have all LM8 groove at 25mm length, but this one .
thank you for the feedback :)

krummrey on Dec 6, 2013 said:

Hi Serge,
I don't get where the extruder fits in? Is it part of the base plate?
I'd love to see you showing how that works in a video.

smartfriendz on Dec 6, 2013 said:

Hi krummrey,

In this video (its long but we see all ) , at start, you can see a close up of the extruder working :

https://vimeo.com/79484258

I know there is only one option actually : It's 1.75mm, brass insert. I'm working to make more options about that . Even a separate extruder to plug-in in place . This one is integrated for the simplicity, it's base on the rockstock extruder.

Thank you

flow on Dec 5, 2013 said:

Hi Serge,

please clean the mesh on the base plate again.

smartfriendz on Dec 5, 2013 said:

Hi flow,

Are you sure you get the right version ? i check here and don't see anymore those "flying faces " . The extruder part base is not beautiful but it prints good here, no problems.
Maybe i miss something ?

EDB1984 on Dec 3, 2013 said:

Love the simple design!
Do you think that this could be used as a printer AND a Laser engraver/cutter (thin material obviously) by replacing the print head with an interchangeable laser and setting up software accordingly?

smartfriendz on Dec 3, 2013 said:

Hi EDB,
I hope yes! My dream would be that the smartrap become a base to all kind of different settings. That's why i wanted to try the most simple reprap to assemble AND disassemble :)
I was thinking laser head ( but i never did a home laser cut before.. anyone ? ) , pastry extruder, double head..etc.
Thank you

jaeg on Dec 2, 2013 said:

I'm hoping to build this printer soon. I'm still sourcing the parts. My biggest challenge is finding the rods.

smartfriendz on Dec 2, 2013 said:

Hi jaeg.

Thank you. I hope you find the rods. I use simple ones, Now i'm testing with aluminium tubes 8mm for X axis (lighter) and printed bushing. It seems to work quiet well .

jhd on Dec 1, 2013 said:

bon j ai lancé les impressions de la v4.5

pourrais tu me donner un lien pour acheter la même hotend que la tienne ?

flow on Nov 30, 2013 said:

The Base Plate is messed up near the filament out

smartfriendz on Nov 30, 2013 said:

Hi flow,
You're right. I just checked. I will repair.
It did print well here anyhow . Didn't see that one, thank you.

hwiguna on Nov 30, 2013 said:

Serge,
I like the new way you clamp the bearings. Easier to print and improving strength! I also like that you keep the fishing line over the rack and pinion. Less printed parts and avoids gear backlash. The tensioner piece will account for the stretchiness of the fishing line. Excellent work!

smartfriendz on Nov 30, 2013 said:

Thank you hwiguna,
I really prefer this version too. It feels better after some feedbacks. I'm assembling it and will post new pictures and videos soon.
One showing some assembling is on vimeo now. Not complete, but it's a start :)
Serge

mikefiatx19 on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Why Indiegogo? The peachy printer made half a million on kickstarter but only seventy thousand on indiegogo.

smartfriendz on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Hi mikefiatx19,

Yeah, i know ( wonderful project by the way :) . It's just that i'm french and kickstarter is not possible from here.
It is true it starts very slooooowly. But i know why, the Smartrap doesn't look like a product for now, it's real dev. Maybe too early .
That doesn't change anything here anyway :) It's very cool to share a project like this with people like we find here ! that's the real value.

Thank you

nepaholic on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Wow great work. Always when I want to start printing again there are new updates. Guess it is better to wait a month or 2 until start printing?

smartfriendz on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Hi nepaholic,
Well, yes i was updating a little too fast. I think i will first debug and make the actual version (0.4) very secure, then we will see for the 0.5 . Changes are too much and it will bring an all new list of debugs.
So , not waiting months but maybe wait one more day to print this V.04 ? I'm about to update . We will have better snap lm8, a smaller plate_X, i hope a new system to tighten the fishing line , and some little mesh not well aligned debug.
More info tomorow or next day :)
Thank you

arcandor on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Keep up the great work! I will definitely be following this project's progress.

smartfriendz on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Thank you arcandor :)

Now it started, we won't stop until we have the most funny and easy to assemble reprap .

flow on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Please add the print bed dimensions to your BOM.

smartfriendz on Nov 27, 2013 said:

sorry,
done.
Serge

evamvid on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Wow! Development is happening so fast on this printer!

smartfriendz on Nov 27, 2013 said:

Thank you :)
I'm working on a solution more simple to build. rack and pinion is great for that.
also coming cable chain, electronic box. We are very near the result i was thinking about now.

flow on Nov 25, 2013 said:

Hi,

when will the 3mm filament version come out?

Maybe a version working with the mini hyena (compatible mk7 replicator)?

http://shop.arcol.hu/item/mini...

smartfriendz on Nov 25, 2013 said:

Hi flow,
I don't when for now, but it's definitely an option I will certainly do. the change would involve plate_base ( integrated extruder), and X_end_jhead. The mini hyena and other mk7 will be worked too as option, so anyone can choose his prefered solution.
I think we go fast to a openscad-smartrarp :)

evamvid on Nov 24, 2013 said:

Just saw http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Al...

Your printer has a wonderfully small parts count

Keep up the g?o?o?d? awesome work!

smartfriendz on Nov 24, 2013 said:

Hey,
Thank you very much !
Let's do the "15 minutes assembly ( and unassembly) printer" :) that's the goal

evamvid on Nov 23, 2013 said:

Have you considered using Rack and Pinion Drive for the XY axes?

your system lends itself to that...

And, it would help increase the printed/non-printed ratio...

smartfriendz on Nov 24, 2013 said:

Hi eveamvid,
You're sooo right :)
It is definitely very high in the design list !! for simplicity and printed parts ratio, this solution, as Komb for the wallace (thing:173516) looked imediately perfect for this printer!

soon coming here, right after the first debugs i'm working on now.
Thank you

evamvid on Nov 23, 2013 said:

And for version 0.4, do you have a time estimate and BOM?

evamvid on Nov 23, 2013 said:

Is there a comprehensive BOM somewhere?

smartfriendz on Nov 23, 2013 said:

Hi evamvid,
This will come this week-end i think. Until now , I focused on the design and files to have something working correctly. There's always cases with different printers when it goes online :)
Thanks

Mateusz on Nov 22, 2013 said:

I tired to put LM8UU into snap socket and it broke the socket. Maybe in 0.5v you can add option to have it screw mounted or zip tie.
Most of my printed snap sockets were breaking off, and replacing them with zip ties or screws brackets.

smartfriendz on Nov 22, 2013 said:

Ho , that's bad :( I had other feedback with this problem.

Just for infos, did you print the very last version i updated on 11/20 ? I just printed and it was very much more easy to fit in. The update was partly about that, and putting up the rods on X and Y , they where too low.

In all case, you're right, we should be able to choose how we want it attached. I will work on that for sure.

loskiorama on Nov 22, 2013 said:

hey!

I'm in love with this printer. I find your work truly inspiring that's why I'm really proud to have been the first contributor to your indiegogo campaign :)

I'm starting to build my smartrap in south america but I'll need to know the smooth rod specs.
How long the 8mm smooth rods are? Is there anywhere where this kind of specs are listed

Keep it up!

smartfriendz on Nov 22, 2013 said:

Thank you so much :)
It really helps and gives lot of positive energy to continue this design.
Let's have the best finished and supported reprap ever :)

jhd on Nov 21, 2013 said:

tu penses qu'on peux lancer les prods ou vaut mieux attendre encore un peu ?

smartfriendz on Nov 21, 2013 said:

Salut :)
Je pense qu'on peut imprimer celle la, oui. Ca tourne chez moi ( bientot les nouvelles images!) , mais je viens encore de debuguer et élargir des tailles. Les différences entre les imprimantes sont plus grandes que je pensais.
Je bosse déjà sur une version openscad avec objet test et parametrage pour chaque imprimante !
Merci

Mateusz on Nov 21, 2013 said:

Nice and simple to give a try.
What length of smooth rods are best? I got set of 450mm and seems too long (and heavy).

smartfriendz on Nov 21, 2013 said:

Hi Mateusz,
Thank you :)
We have for now 90mm lost on X axis and 70mm lost on Y axis. It's too much , but i'm working on it for version 0.5. So if you want 200x200 you need 290mm rods on X axis and 270mm rods on Y axis.

sicknick5 on Nov 21, 2013 said:

i see a few problems that i think you could address, 1. the bed leveling design looks to be hard to get precise adjustments, 2 personally i think it would be ideal to mount your extruder/motor assembly as close as possible to your hot end in order to help with ooze, as well as mount it high, possibly on your z axis rods? what is the print volume on this printer? overall printer looks good, good luck

smartfriendz on Nov 21, 2013 said:

Hi sicknick5,

On the photo you see, bed leveling doesn't have springs , but normally it does, so the adjustment is , for now, "standard" :) you have 4 screws to adjust the bed, simply. It's true it's not ideal, but the experience was somewhat like other printers actually .

About the extruder, it's true it need good adjustment in the slicing software, but it's realy a design desicion : I wanted to use 3 nema17 as the basis of the structure to make it stable , without much other parts. I'm happy about that , we have a solid base with only 2 plates.

For now, i could have a good result , not much ooze with slic3r and a well adjusted extruder speed.

Thank you .

nepaholic on Nov 20, 2013 said:

Hi again. x_end_jhead.stl is still missing the holes for the rods :(

smartfriendz on Nov 20, 2013 said:

Hi nepaholic,

I don't understand, i verified here and downloaded the file, but i get the holes for the rods ? Or am i missing something ?

nepaholic on Nov 18, 2013 said:

hi. the x end for j-head file is missing the holes for the rods...

smartfriendz on Nov 18, 2013 said:

Hi nepaholic,
Soory for that. One boolean operation missed in that file. It's repaired now.

joe9099 on Nov 17, 2013 said:

Now that looks impressive, what the electronics board controlling it? looking forward to following the progress, once instructions published, ill build one !

smartfriendz on Nov 17, 2013 said:

I had two megatronics at home, so this is one. Normally, i designed it to be with a small board like sanguinolulu or more modern teensylu. I'm actually designing a printed box to go with and adapt some connectors to make it more simple to plug ( for people a little afraid with those tiny connections we have now ).
Of course, it works with any controller board. we need only adapt the size of the wood plank.

Thank you . I'm already started on the documentation side. That will be the most work i think :)

nepaholic on Nov 17, 2013 said:

I printed the base today and can't get the lm8uu inside the holders without cracking them :(

smartfriendz on Nov 17, 2013 said:

ouch ! i'm so sorry nepaholic :(
I had hard time myself to put them in . I will update larger maybe . I guess i had luck to have a pla more elastic than yours ?
It's one problem with printing, we should have always customisable models with some way to adjust holes size.
I'm really working on that hard. Eventually we will have this entire reprap customisable to adapt to each printer.

Magnilucent on Nov 17, 2013 said:

This is really exciting. The complicated build of the Printrbot Simple, made harder by sub-par instructions, is still fresh in my mind. I didn't really understand what I was building until it came together.

I can almost see how this thing works from just the pictures.

Karabas on Nov 15, 2013 said:

I think Y carriage cannot use all the length - jhead holder strikes with Z bearing holder insteed of Y-bearing holder. So about 20mm non used space of Y rods.

smartfriendz on Nov 15, 2013 said:

Hi Karabas,
Thank you for your feedback. It is so true. We loose space for nothing there.
I was already working on the next version and tried to reduce the lost space, so the X and Y axis would need only 60mm extra space ( the distance between guides holders).
Maybe it will be an in between solution : more space between holders for better stability and no lost space :)
stability looks great with 60mm though.

wersy on Nov 15, 2013 said:

Congratulations!

Now even more simple - and it works! I can't see any wobbling.

Fantastic, I'm thrilled.

smartfriendz on Nov 15, 2013 said:

Thank you :)
and It's only a start ! The big idea for this printer is to become the swiss knife of repraps? , the one you can disassemble and re-assemble in the same hour with different configurations , or upgrades.
I have a big list of modifs and upgrades to make it more and more simple ( and fun) , but still very well working ( even if not the most top notch printer).

nepaholic on Nov 15, 2013 said:

What is that for a filament skrew/Hobbed bolt for the direct drive? Where can I buy it?

smartfriendz on Nov 15, 2013 said:

I have it for a long time from mendel-parts. I think it's a maritime-models brass insert . there's some infos on reprap.org there : http://reprap.org/wiki/Drive-g....

jhd on Nov 15, 2013 said:

salut es tu francais ? j aurai voulu savoir si je peux commencer a printer ou si le diz va encore changer ?
Aurais tu des videos de la printeuse ?

smartfriendz on Nov 15, 2013 said:

Salut jhd,
Oui je suis français. C'est vrai que j'ai plutôt mis les infos a jour en anglais pour l'instant :) Mais il y aura au moins la page reprap.org en français a jour (et correct j'espere).
Avec cette dernière version. on peut imprimer. Maintenant , les corrections seront plus petites ( pas de plateau en moins d'un coup! ).
Les vidéos arrivent aujourd'hui. C'est avec une version 0.3 modifiée (un seul plateau X).
Merci de l'intérêt en tout cas.

wersy on Nov 13, 2013 said:

Is it possible to stretch the jhead of the x_end_jheadto to inside direction to be aligned with the outside of the x-end?
This would make it much more easier to print this part without need of support.
You then can turn the part 90° and print the rod holes vertical.

smartfriendz on Nov 13, 2013 said:

Very good idea ! i will align, i didn't noticed that one. I try usually to desgign with "how does it print" in mind.
You make me think also i didn't turn the different stl files to be ready to print. they are bruto out of blender.

nepaholic on Nov 13, 2013 said:

Wow this thing is amazing. I will build one of these soon. Do you have pics about the printing quality?

smartfriendz on Nov 13, 2013 said:

Thank you :)
Just wait one or two days before printing ? It's really heavy update right now . lot of adjustments where found and i'm updating soon now .
You can see print quality of the very first version on the photos ( orange stuff) . I would call it "fair low". I think i will be far better with the following versions.
I also remind as much as i can this printer won't be the top notch quality you're ever seen :) it's not it's purpose. I try more to make the most easy to build, hack and unbuild .
I just removed the x_plate_bottom. Now we get like 8 printed parts . i'm happy .

wersy on Nov 13, 2013 said:

I thougt the original Printrbot is the simplest printer but your design is by far the funniest and boldest I saw by now ;-) I love it.

I am currently printing it and I noticed that the smooth z-rods are only guided by the holes of the base plate. How you can assure that the rods don't wobble and stay perpendicular to the base?
Or did I miss something?
Maybe one can add a plate at the bottom with holes which clasp arround the stepper motor and the z-rods.

smartfriendz on Nov 13, 2013 said:

Thank you for the nice compliment :)
You're perfectly right about the zrods ! I use for now a simple wood plate ( could be anything straight). The thing is to use the base plate as a guide and drill 2 x 8mm holes on it . Then , i use a M6x60 to fix the all thing to the wood plate.
This is temporarly and a design with all plastic parts is coming soon. It is exactly like you imagine : there is a plate at the bottom , fixed between the motors.
Also, there will be very soon a 0.4 version with :
- Removing of the x-bottom plate : it's not necessary and if we have longer lm8uu holders on the x-top plate, it is straight enough and don't move !
- better lm8uu holders anywhere! in this version, I find the holders too thin and it is not straight enough !

I'm sorry for the changes for people who already started printing. I try to mark this project as "WIP" but it unchecks each time i update !!

New files , marked as 0.4 are coming today.

Thank you

homern on Nov 11, 2013 said:

maybe you should edit the y plat, when the stepper is getting hot the plate will bend because its only hold with the 2x m3 screws, maybe you should make it a little bit thicker and attach it to the base plate and add some kind of support structure to keep it from bending

smartfriendz on Nov 11, 2013 said:

You're right. I had a precedent version with an extra support coming along the motor. I removed it to make it more simple to print , and I have printed 30 hours without noticing this problem, but i admit i was printing in a cold room and the stepper stayed cold.
It's two separate plate to reduce the size of the printed plates,
Certainly something to rethink here , thank you.

homern on Nov 11, 2013 said:

i think you should redesign the y plate, when the stepper is getting hot or warm the piece will bend because its only hold with the 2xm3 screws, maybe you should make it thicker and attach it to the other plate

nic0laz on Nov 11, 2013 said:

niiice!!!, on the wiki you mention a 0.3 version. Is this the one?.

i might build one!!!

smartfriendz on Nov 11, 2013 said:

Thank you :)
It's the first "publishable" version for me. On reprap.org , we can see some photos of precedent working versions, but this one is more simple in my opinion.
Please note it's a very much beginning and files will update regularly . If you build one , you will maybe miss some documentation (i'm writing right now ) and still could have some mistakes while building it.

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