Mendel90 is acrylic with 8mm rods, so pretty much equivalent to a Mendel. The sturdy version uses 12mm MDF and 10mm rods and has a slightly bigger build area.

Think3dPrint3d sell Sanguinololus: http://www.emakershop.com/brow...

but it will work with any reprap electronics.

I tried, but I failed :-[

Here's my attempt https://lh3.googleusercontent....

(the side of fan duct closer to carriage is actually vertical, picture is shot from weird angle).

The problem with this design is that airflow is too low/exit is too far from nozzle. I get better results with 120mm fan blowing across the whole heated bed. Attached to carriage is 60mm fan.

Odd the tensioner split, I have no problems with 3 I printed in ABS and PLA should be harder if anything. Did it de-laminate? If so perhaps the hole was a bit tight. It could also be printed lying down which would make it stronger.

I started with just a nyloc but the belt stopped it turning so the screw went through it and cut into the belt.

Yes I can see duel shaft could be a problem. Maybe the gantry should move back a bit.

Those are the purple strips that you can see in the model. They are mentioned here: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co... under the Cables heading.

They have a support layer because they have a smaller hole on top of bigger one. That would mean printing the smaller one in mid air.

They are one layer thick and easily removed with a drill or a penknife.

Sorry, none of the printed parts are compatible with the Prusa. I swapped the smooth rods and lead screws at the X-ends, the spacing is different and so is the x-bar spacing.

I will put the instructions on reprap.org. Whether it appears on the front page is up to Dr Bowyer.

It is easy to combine parts onto build plates with openscad. The problem is Skienforge only has one infill direction per layer, so bridging does not work properly. When one parts needs a bridge lay
er they all get it. If two parts need a bridge in opposite directions on the same layer one is not right.

I also print some pulleys at a different layer height and some parts with 100% infill.

I will do the documentation as fast as I can but it takes time and I have other things to do. Some of these questions are answered on my blog.

The two 8mm holes are in case the motor has two shafts.

The templates will work for MDF but I use 12mm so the gantry would end up 6mm further back. I also use No6 wood screws which have smaller pilot holes . Best to wait for me to publish the source as that can generate any permutation.

The ext
ruder uses 3 608 bearings, one 624 on the X idler and 2 on the Y. The BOM is generated automatically from the ball bearing dimensions. I will have to add another field to get the type in there.

Yes the microswitches are the endstops. You only need one on Z. I use the top and everybody else uses the
bottom. I am going to redesign the bottom limit to be simpler and will probably change that to a full size microswitch because lower force ones are available. A high force one may lift the x end.

The screws have to be the right length in most cases. For example they can stick through the base and
would look ugly sticking through the frame. There is one that is far too long on the y-idler to avoid yet another type.

I don't know anything about SAE screws and find them impossible to Google, unlike metric where I can just do "M4 nut size".

With the source files you could put in the size of SAE
you want to use and everything would change, the plastic parts and the sheet pilot holes, etc.

I don't think Greg's idler bracket is strong enough when printed with ABS, Greg only uses PLA.

I don't need to raise the motor because the bolts have captive heads, so I have no need to get under it, and I prefer to keep the centre of gravity low.

I have no reason to open the idler and prefer to keep it in place once the spring tension has been set. It doesn't close fully like the original
Wade's so it is easy to load filament, just push it in and turn the wheel.

If I need to clean the hobbed bolt I take the nut off with my fingers and remove the bolt and big gear.

The mounting holes are still on 50mm centres, so you should be able to fit Greg's if you want.

More details here: htt
p://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2...

The cost depends a lot on where and how you buy the parts but is should be about the same as an LM8UU Prusa. Same motors, electronics, and bearings. The rods and belts are slightly shorter in total I think. The frame is cheap if you use MDF and probably similar to the Prusa studding. The fasteners are more numerous but smaller ones, and don't cost much anyway.

No the sizes are as stated in vitamins.txt. I have just loaded the base into Rhino and that is correct at 468 wide It looks like whatever you are viewing it with is taking the units as inches instead of mm. Are DXFs dimensionless like STLs? I have never used them before.

Check again. I measure it at much closer to 450mm... using Qcad to measure.

The scad files will be up when I have finished the build scripts and sussed out git. Hopefully this weekend, but I have to make two new hot ends first.

1) Yes they are M4 tapped for acrylic and No6 wood screws in a pilot hole for MDF. You can also tap MDF M4 and it works very well.

2) If you look at the bar-clamps.stl you will see the screw holes in the base are actually slots with 2mm of movement side to side.

More or less. The hole sizes might be slightly different as the screws go from M4 to No 6 wood screws. However you can actually tap MDF M4. The sheet drawings will change as the sheets are thicker, which moves the gantry back a few mm, and the pilot holes get smaller. Also the BOM changes of course.

Note that the MDF version shown on my blog is slightly bigger and uses 10mm rods and bearings.

If you wait a couple of days I will publish the source with scripts to make all the STL and DXF files and the BOM. You specify the build volume, sheet materials, motors and rods, etc, and it makes custo
mised versions of all the parts.

Where can you get NEMA14's cheaper than NEMA17, I have always found them more expensive?

With the source files you can chose any combination you want but all the sheets and plastic parts will change. As one of the predefined configurations I have a Huxley sized machine with M6 rods and NEMA14. It needs a small extruder designing as it looks a bit silly with a full sized Wade's and the
re is no justification for using the smaller motor on X unless the extruder is lighter.

I am currently working on scripts to build all the files automatically as it takes a long time to export everything by hand.

I will add the files for the acrylic M8 version to this thing.

As stated I will publish them soon. Probably as a link to github.

The other difference with Printrbot is the vertical carriage / x-axis. That gives smaller printed parts but I prefer to have the carriage horizontal with a low centre of gravity.

The unique thing about a Printrbot is that it is a Mendel style machine with no frame and the Z and Y axes are unsupported.

If you add a frame you would end up with a machine like this. You don't need the chunky Z motor brackets and the studding connecting them. You wouldn't use the Y-axis where the rods move and the bearings are stationary because that makes the Y carriage (and hence the depth of the machine) bigger a
nd heavier.

I did a quick search using the tag system and of the 63 things that were tagged "3d printer" the following printers have been previously featured. the maker bot cupcake, the makerbot thing-o-matic, the ultimaker, and the CUBE(printable). did some more poking beyond that and found the reprap wallace(printable), the prusa air2, and the 3D printed full size makerbot(printable).

there is probably more but the prusa and reprap tags are used so liberally(basically any thing that can be printed with a prusa seems to have a prusa or reprap tag) that wading through and finding the original upload is beyond my attention span.

p.s. have you considered making a version of the me
ndel90 that bolts a mendel90 frame to a wallace or printrbot?