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The Twitch Block

by MatterHackers, published

The Twitch Block by MatterHackers Sep 29, 2016

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Thing Statistics

66704Views 7431Downloads Found in Mechanical Toys

Summary

We saw the Fidget Cube Kickstarter when it was first announced last week and instantly fell in love with it. Like every office, we have a couple “fidgeters” in the office. Most of us look for a small 3D print to discretely play with during meetings, so the Fidget Cube was an immediate solution. We’re a bit impatient though and couldn’t wait for the December delivery date, so we got a bit creative. With a multitude of 3D printers ready to get printing, it made perfect sense to design our own. Besides, what good is having 3D printers if you can’t make small, plastic toys on a whim?

Want to see a more in-depth look at The Twitch Block? Read our article on its features or watch our video:

If you have Matter Control, you can also find this in our Design Store

Print Settings

Rafts:

No

Resolution:

0.25mm

Infill:

20%


Notes:

Print and Assembly Instructions:

We recommend printing all the parts as they are oriented in the STL files. We used PLA for the hard components, and MatterHackers TPU filament for the soft buttons.

Print the Hard Buttons, Rings, and Cam plate first. We printed with 0.25mm layers, and 20% infill on all PLA parts.

In order to install the magnet rings in the Main Body, you will need to pause the print at the proper time.
This is easy to do in MatterControl. We printed the Main Body with 0.25mm layers. With 0.25mm layers, we need to pause the print at after layer 70 in order to place the magnet rings in the main body.

Additional Hardware

(6) M3 x 6mm Flathead Bolts
(6) M3 Threaded Inserts
(2) 6mm Diameter x 3mm Disk Magnets

Materials Used

MatterHackers PRO Series Blue PLA

MatterHackers PRO Series Black PLA

MatterHackers PRO Series Black TPU

GMASS Tungsten Metal ABS Filament

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I love that it is fully 3d printable so anybody with a 3d printer can make it!

It's so kool can I have one

How did they get the ring into the main body without destroying it?

With milk

You have to pause the print and insert the rings during the main body print.

Has anyone considered alternatives for the panels/components that use the TPU soft/flex material? I dont have any and was not planning on getting any.

Comments deleted.

Man, you have got to get this Rapid Prototyped into the highest qualitly and get it up on Kickstarter. I bet you could make a tidy bit of money if you avoided mistakes made by the Fidget Cube people and just outsourced production straight away down to China and get them banged out in Vinyl and ABS with metal parts (rather then dicking about like them trying to partner up with already busy production houses while 5 other companies reverse engineer and start producing their own!)
I know this will do well and there are 155,000 backers of the FC who would snap this up if you showed them a full and production grade prototype!
Look what has happened to them while dicking around, im sure you saw the vids I have posted on youtube so far and there are 3 more versions left to arrive and review this coming week, at least one (that I have seen photos and video of from the vendor) I know is of equal qualitly vinyl with metal and ABS features to the really nice unofficial cube that I reviewed first and likely the same qualitly of the official ones (once we even see some pre-production protos from the factory being used!), and that one comes in more colours than the original including some that have their buttons, dials etc.. in insanely nice bright UV reactive fluorescent colours with black or white bodies that I know from showing people photos that they will be big sellers!

They are charging $19-$25 + shipping for their little cubes, while unofficial ones are retailing domestically in the EU and US for around $10-$15 on average (after ignoring the obvious crappy ones shipping from china for $5 or $6 each)!

You could slap a price of $35-$45 for this and people will pay it!

Its only a matter of time before someone else in Asia sees this and rips it off from you! Get out ahead!

Great design and work, I love it!

Totally agreed and I couldn't have said it better!

What length is needed for the M3 Threaded Inserts? Looks like in Canada I can order 3mm, 5mm, or 6mm from a source I found.

The toggle buttons in the "hard buttons and magnet rings" and "hard buttons rings and cam plate" STLs are too big to fit through the holes in the plate. The ones in "toggle buttons" are the correct size (or, at least, closer), but you still have to print one of the incorrect files in order to get the button for the maze plate. Can you upload that piece individually?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1836463

Remix of the block which contains

1) A printable version that prints the main block in two parts allowing for easier placement of the magnet rings - top and bottom interlock for easy joining. This version contains 3mm holes for printing without using inserts

2) A version of the cube that has 4x2mm holes in both plates and block allowing for easy swapping of plates without screws

3) A joystick twitch that takes the place of the ball bearing.

Twitch Cube Joystick

Seriously, it's very tasteless how you post it here... do it the right way and post it as a Remix.. that way people can go see for themselves instead of you hijacking people like this...

Oct 30, 2016 - Modified Oct 30, 2016
Framingr - in reply to dintid

Dude chill the hell out. Instead of wasting time telling me how wrong I am for posting content to help out, Maybe you could do something worthwhile and come up with an addition to the block...I linked it as a remix... Happy now?Seriously people have way too Much time on their damn hands if they spend all there time trolling for minor damn issues, especially when I never claimed it was original content other than the joystick

Where do you get the magnets from? Having issues.
I also can't seem to print the ball evenly without supports, it keeps warping. Did you use different settings for it?

Magnets were purchased from Amazon. 6mm x 3mm disc magnets - https://www.amazon.com/Small-Multi-Use-Craft-Refrigerator-Magnets/dp/B01LR0XAQC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475773426&sr=8-1&keywords=6mm+disc+magnet

The ball was printed with supports, and we printed 2 at a time to help with heat buildup.

Support settings in MatterControl were:

Lines
2 mm spacing
50% support
4 interface layers
1mm X/Y distance
.3mm air gap
Create Perimeter enabled

We used the Tungsten ABS from GMASS, which is very easy to sand/clean up after printing.
The support should peel right off.

I have a modded end cap that allows use of a standard size ball bearing if wanted

Does the standard endcap not work with a 1/2" ball bearing?

Yep - though the ones I use are about 12.65mm

Could you upload your modded endcap? I have a pack of 1/2" ball bearings I'd like to use for this.

Done - in with the files of the joystick

Thanks. I modded their endcap last night and it worked fine, but I prefer the thickness of yours.

Could you please provide some more detailed directions on how to assemble this? There are a lot of pieces and it's not entirely obvious. Thanks.

Which part are you unsure about?

The M3 heat inserts are very easy to install, you just need a soldering iron. It's even easier if you purchase the tip made for soldering irons and these inserts.

Here's an article on how to use/install those - http://www.matterhackers.com/articles/fasteners-for-3d-printing

Once all the inserts are installed, it's just a matter of using the screws to attach the panels, and using a bit of super glue on the 2 small top/bottom panels.

I was sort of hoping for help on how the various pieces fit together. Maybe it's obvious once I print everything. I notice that some of the parts are in combo and individual STL files, so one doesn't need to print all the STLs. Had to order the screws, inserts and magnets. Got the first two already.

It's pretty tough to screw up. Once the inserts are in place, the panels can only fit on in one orientation.

The panel with the 2 toggle buttons and 3 soft buttons goes on the side of the main body that has the slot cut into it. The cam presses into that slot.

Let us know if you get stuck somewhere and we can help you out

Thanks. On the magnet discs, do you want the magnets to attract or repel?

There's no right or wrong way. We've tried both and they provide different effects. Personally, I like them to repel.

Ok so looking at the original model files the screw holes are M5. I have since modified a version to have M3 holes and have adjusted two of the plates to also have M3 rather than M5 holes.

Ill post them up shortly.

Still working on the magnetic attachment and the joystick panel

What size screws and magnets are needed for this?

I found that the little chubby countersunk screws that you get with PC fans fitted perfectly!

Best I can tell M5's but that seems ridiculously large. I just tried some M4's and they were small. I would love the base model of this thing to make changes to. I already designed my own ball bearing cover to handle a steel ball rather than the awful printed one. Seems to me that there needs to be the ability to hack both new plates and the main body to handle them. I have in mind a joystick but it would need the base plate to be able to be modified.

Sep 29, 2016 - Modified Sep 29, 2016
MatterHackers - in reply to Framingr

The descriptions should be updated with hardware now, they're M3 6mm flathead bolts, M3 threaded inserts, and 6mm x 3mm magnets. And the original model file is uploaded now. It's a Solidworks file, so hopefully that's helpful. We would love to see any design you can come up with for this!

Will that's awesome. Thanks. Not sure how I got the holes so large. It was printed in petg which has Very low shrink rate so perhaps that is the issue. Ideally I want to get rid of the screws all together and switch to using magnets to hold on the plates. It might result in slightly thicker plates but much easier customizing.

The holes are large because they are designed to take the M3 heat-set inserts.

Ahh ok yeah I dont do the whole inserts thing - that's why I print in PETG - strong enough to take screws, With that being said I have variation of the block with M3 sized holes if anyone wants it.

I can't help but notice how similar this is to the Fidget cube that's currently on Kickstarter. Did you pull inspiration from them?

Ya they did. They said it in the description.

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