Tri Fidget Spinner Toy

by 2ROBOTGUY, published

Tri Fidget Spinner Toy by 2ROBOTGUY Oct 1, 2016

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2/17/17: Check out my Esty Store http://etsy.me/2lW9XyB
2/17/17: Finger Pad V2 Twisted Pins Added
2/16/17: Free contest to Win these Fidget Spinners https://youtu.be/kn49MOOfuHg

12/15/2016: By request 2D drawings have been added
11/112015 Version 2 released : Smoother edges
10/20/2016 Added a ready to print stl with all 3 parts.

Do you like this design and want more great projects? Donate a dollar or two to help order future supplies :-) http://bit.ly/2kbP40C

Want to mail me something? It may show up in a future unboxing video (include note)
Mark Fuller - PMB 163
463 Pooler Parkway
Pooler, Ga 31322

Video :https://youtu.be/NOGPQmb8KG8

All tolerances are exact and ball bearings need to be press fit in with a vise or equivalent device. If plastic cracks, increase stl model by 1-2 percent and print again. Standard 608ZZ Shielded 8x22x7 Miniature Ball Bearings used in this model. The center Bearing can be switched for a 608ZZ/C Ceramic Ball Bearing for increase spin time.

Spin on!

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Is all the equipment needed printed or do you need to buy some things seperatly ?

No, you will need to buy 4 bearings and press them in place. Try to find cheaper 608 bearings for the three outside ones and a premium center bearing. Ceramic bearings or bones red bearings are good center bearings. http://amzn.to/2lNWo7m

Do the cheaper 608ZZ bearings work well for the center? Can't find the 608ZZ/C bearings. Any advice? Thanks!

Yes the cheap 608zz bearing will work for the center but they are crunchy at times. I have played with the bones red bearing and like them as an alternative to ceramic. http://amzn.to/2lNWo7m

Comments deleted.

Why ban them though. If they are the same what's the difference?

Why would you post this here? This is the most popular Fidget Spinner model online.

Where is a cheap place to get bearings? They seem a little expensive for what they are.

Comments deleted.

Never had worse tolerances on a print before.

Are you having trouble printing this model? Somebody made a remix of my model at 103% if your machine is printing fat. My Prusa I3 MK2 prints this model perfectly.

Can I sell for a fundraiser?

Ya sure. Post some pictures of your products. And if you feel compelled, you can donate a couple of dollars to me for the model

Curious.....I've printed a few...tried different center bearings (Red's, the ceramic you recommended, couple of others) and I can't get it to spin for more than 15ish seconds on a flat surface. Would you have any insight on what adjustments might be needed?

Degrease and remove the center bearings shields. You should see your spin times at least tripple

I soaked my bearings in acetone for 24 hours first to remove the grease. I get about 35 seconds or more on a good spin on a flat surface. also press the bearings in place with a vise. beating the bearings into submission only dents the metal the bearings spins on.

Make sure your fidget spinners are balanced. If one bearing is slightly higher than the others it can throw the who spin out of balance. With stock red my spinners go for 30-45 seconds.

Do you remove lubricant also?

I degrease my center bearing but usually add sewing machine oil.

This is awesome, thanks so much!

What z-resolution should it be, and how long does it take to print at that resolution?

I have a Prusa i3 MK2, and am planning on making them party favors

The frame will take about an hour to print. I also print on a Prusa I3 MK2. 0.15mm layer, 8 shells 90-100% infill stock 40mm print speed. Use glue on the bed. The twisted caps print at the same setting, they take 20 min each to print

I printed the caps and frame in 10 minutes with .2mm and 20% infill and aquanet on a heated bed at 70c. also i printed with PLA at 200 degrees celcius and a flow rate of 90 so the smaller prints (the caps) don't get all melty and globby :)

Should I print the twisted caps, or normal caps?

The normal cap is easier to print, the twisted cap is alittle harder but will not fall out. Try them both

When I printed this, I could not get my bearings to fit inside. Any idea on a solution?
I printed at 100% scale with .15mm and 15% infill

Use a vise to slowly press the pieces together. use cloth on the vise so you don't scar the spinner and bearing.

Scale up the model to 103% and print again

Good idea on the new caps, but you can't put 2 of them together. They are too long.

They work perfectly on my Prusa I3 MK2.what machine are you printing on and at what z resolution?

Flashforge creator pro. .20mm

what size ball barring do i need

608zz skateboard ball bearings. 22mm diameter x 7mm tall

how many finger caps do you need to buy to have it on both sides??

Two finger pads to have them on both sides

6 days ago - Modified 6 days ago
Robbie_flash - in reply to 2ROBOTGUY

thanks :)
for replying
ow and one more thing what version should i buy of the spinner
and what are those pins on v2 of the spinner for

How do i make the wholes bigger for my bearings i tired hot water it won't work. Instead it made it smaller what should i do.

When will the new center piece be updated like the one you showed in the new video? Thanks

When do you expect to post the new models? Im very excited but I'd like to know an estimate. Hours, days, weeks? I thank you and the community thanks you.

New finger pad design has been added

Any update on the caps fitting better? I just printed this and the caps are very loose in the bearing hole. They just fall out. They do not press fit to the center of the bearing at all.

I just added a new finger cap design.

I'm going to post new models soon. Have you tried scaling the model up some to make them fit better?

I will give scaling it up a try. Guess start at 1% increase and see how that does.
Awesome design by the way.

How tall is the frame? Thanks!

what resolution do you recommend? Does it matter?

Do I have to print the finger pad separate or does ot automatcally print on the spinner

You must print all 3 parts (Frame and 2 finger pads), install bearings, and the the finger pads

How big are the bearing inserts?

Do I have to print the finger pads separate or do they print onto the fidget

i use print studio to convert my files for my idea maker 3d40 and it always distorts the size, so help pls

How do?

what are the thing in the 3 outside holes that act like wights

Nickels also fit well.

608 standard skateboard ball bearing

How do these work?

It's a tool to fidget with. Similar to clicking a pen when you are bored. Check out this video https://youtu.be/NOGPQmb8KG8

Feb 13, 2017 - Modified Feb 13, 2017

How much filament does it need to print? In feet or in grams without the bearings and counterweights

The frame weights 7 grams of PLA filament @ 100% infill.

Ok thanks man! Would you mind if I sold some of these to some of my friends?

No go head and sell them to your friends. Take some pictures and post them here. If you do make some money and want to donate a couple of bucks for future projects, my PayPal donation link is http://bit.ly/2kbP40C

How much does it weigh in ounces

52g or 1.83oz

Can anyone remix this to use something like a 1/2" nut instead of the 3 outside bearings?

Send me the specs on the 1/2 nut and I'll work on it this weekend.

Feb 11, 2017 - Modified Feb 11, 2017
kferg55 - in reply to 2ROBOTGUY

I was thinking just a simple 1/2" one like this

and i did find this one, but i saw one before with a larger hex nut and i think it would work better


M12 Hexnut Fidget Spinner
by RoPa

the cap for the bearing does not work, it presses down on the bearing slowing it down, I love everything else though, please fix the cap

Try taking the seals/shields off

What fill would you recommend?

I always print mine at 100% infill. To make the part really strong set the shells to 20 for a conical infill.

ummm i need some help printing these can u send my the speeds and stuff/infill/everthing ???

Do I have to separately print the caps for the center bearing? If so, what are the dimensions and how many do I need?

The center bearing is a purchase item, can't print them yet

Love it! Any tips for degreasing the bearings?

Orange degreaser and then clean with 70+ rubbing alcohol. I would suggest to add some sewing machine oil into the bearing after cleaning. Rust = bad

How do you apply the degreaser to the bearing races? How do you remove the seals?

What size did you make it in? Would the bearing fit without resizing?

how to u make the bearing hole bigger i am using tinker card

what program did u use to create this???

Hi which printer do you use to print this, and PLA gives best results?

Hey just wondering what PLA you use to make these

Standard run of the mill PLA. Try to find a reputable brand with tight filament diameter tolerance of +/-0.05mm or better. Good Plastic in = Good product out

Question about the bearings - for the 608ZZ counterweight bearings - Does it matter what ABEC number those are if the middle one is ceramic? I'm trying to save on cost and maximize on spin time here. Thanks!

No it does not matter. Buy the lowest cost bearings for the counter weights. Buy a decent middle bearing. Happy spinning

Can you get these bearings from skateboards?

Yes, 608 bearing are the standard bearing used in skateboards.

Do you mind if i start selling these at a local skate shop and maybe later on at a learning express? I love the desin, and it's simple so there isn't much that could change, and a local skate shop owner wants to partner with me and sell them!

Feb 5, 2017 - Modified Feb 5, 2017
2ROBOTGUY - in reply to renefloresvlogs

No go head and sell them locally. Take some pictures once you have them displayed in the shop. If you do make some money and feel compelled, my PayPal donation link is http://bit.ly/2kbP40C

THANKS!!! sounds good. They would be up in a few weeks. And yeah once i make some bucks i'll donate :)

A little bit confused about one part of the drawing - What is the dimension of the cap with the pin? How high above the surface of the cage does it go on both sides? Does the cap go inside each hole where the bearing is? Thanks - sorry for the newbie question - just trying to 3d print it.

The pins on the finger pads "caps" go in the center ball bearing. They have a slight taper and should fit snuggle in the bearings. Once the finger pads are pressed in there should be a 0.25mm gap on both sides of the bearing. I'm working on a new finger pad design right now that should be released this week.

Thanks 2RobotGuy! A few follow up questions to your response:

  • The 0.25mm gap on both sides of the bearing - I'm trying to figure out where the gap is that your referring to - is this between the finger pad that is put one side and the other?
  • Do you have dimensions of the finger pad like the cage? I'm trying to calculate the mm for the pin and the cap so that it fits snugly into the bearing.
Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017
2ROBOTGUY - in reply to Mykeyz

Q :The 0.25mm gap on both sides of the bearing - I'm trying to figure out where the gap is that your referring to - is this between the finger pad that is put one side and the other?
A : The pins were designed longer than the bearing to add a natural 0.25mm gap between the finger pad and the out side of the bearing.

Q : Do you have dimensions of the finger pad like the cage? I'm trying to calculate the mm for the pin and the cap so that it fits snugly into the bearing.
A: No I do not have a drawing of the finger pad at this time. Here are the dimentions. The pin is 8mm dia at the base with a 1 degree taper and 3.55 mm long. The finger pad are 19 dia and 1.5mm thick

Thanks 2RobotGuy - that's very helpful!

  1. My fingerpad keeps going above the surface of the cage - the height and diameter seems to be my problem but I'm not sure what the dimensions are

  2. Also - I saw a video where you light the bearings - is this necessary? What is the effect this has?

Q: My fingerpad keeps going above the surface of the cage - the height and diameter seems to be my problem but I'm not sure what the dimensions are
A: See above

Q: I saw a video where you light the bearings - is this necessary? What is the effect this has?
A: I would suggest not the heat up your bearing. It is not necessary if you have a good print / 3d printer. Some people heat parts up to make it easier to press them into place. Good printer = Good parts = happy user = less frustration = better results

Are the middle-bearing-covers supposed to just slide off? I tried hot-gluing them, but the hot glue wears off kind of quickly. Anyone try bumping up the resolution on the covers to make it a snap-fit?

Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017
2ROBOTGUY - in reply to NarWhat

No they should be a snug fit. I have been working on an optimized bearing covers I will post soon.

Hm, interesting. I did the all-in-one print with both covers and the skeleton, and they slipped right off. Gonna try reprinting with slightly higher res tonight and see how it goes.

hey if i want to make my own what size are the holes foe the bearings

608zz bearings are 22mm OD, 8mm ID, and 7mm tall

Is there anything else I can use to replace those outer bearings

Check out my penny Tri spinner. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2067044


I'm sorry I'm new to 3D printing how do I actually print it ? Also what is put in the middle like the plastic this is it just another bearings?

Do you own a 3D printer? Yes a bearing goes in the center of the spinner also.

It looks like the "ready to print" model is tilted ever so slightly off flat (<1degree). Take a look at a sliced model without raft, you'll see what I mean. If you use a program with a "lay flat" option, use it before slicing.

I printed the spinner and ordered the specific bearings. But I noticed that the center hole is a bit smaller than the others. Is that normal? I can't increase size of stl file

All holes are 22mm diameter. It might be something with your printer?

I haven't measured it but the outer holes look larger.

I forgot to mention, will these caps work on any fidget and do they fit into each other or snap on?

Also, do you have to put a cap over the middle bearing or no?

Hey 2RobotGuy, what program did you use for this fidget. Also, is there a way to make my teacher not know this is a file? Please message me back here or at [email protected]

Jan 24, 2017 - Modified Jan 24, 2017

Really good toy!!!

what size of bearing do you need

22mm OD, 8mm ID, 7mm tall. Standard skate bearings (608zz)

Jan 23, 2017 - Modified Jan 23, 2017

Where do you get the bearings and what type do you need for this print?

Search for 608zz bearing online. There are alot of vendors. For the outside bearing weights I use 608zz from vxb.com. For the center bearing I use a ceramic bearing from eBay. They spin longer and smoother. Check out thid video for more information. https://youtu.be/vLL-T4Z_TNo

Can I get these bearings in stores rather than online?

Yes, skate or sporting store should have them. 608ZZ bearings are the most standard bearing used in inline skates and skateboard.

So If my barrings aren't going in with a lot of force I need to increase the size?

Yes, increase the size of the STL to increase the hole size. Your flow rate is set too high causing excess filament to be deposited on your part. I call this printing fat or rich.

And the only problem was the middle bc after it snapped i tried doing one of the ends and it went in fine with the help of a vise

Hmm that is wierd, all of the holes were modeled at 22mm dia . If one hole is too small they all should be. Make sure you are pressing the bearings in from the top of the print. Sometimes bottom layers are more compressed causing smaller holes.

Yeah after it snapped I just saw if it would work and it dissolved I'm not too sure. So do you just recommend increasing 1-2%?

Increase the model by 2% and see how the bearings fit. 2% would increase the bearing holes by 0.44mm

Comments deleted.
Jan 13, 2017 - Modified Jan 13, 2017

I tried to print it with 20% infill with the honeycomb and it seemed unbalanced, tried agin with 100% infill and it was perfect, bearings fit perfect aswell

I would suggest to print 3+ shells and 75% infill. I have experienced unbalanced issue due to the outside bearing weight not being one a level plane causing a moment force on the main bearing. Worth a look.

100% worked perfect for me! thanks anyways i appreciate it!

Does it print the buttons too Or do I have to print them separate?

Yes you can print the finger pads (buttons) with or without the Cage. There is a model called ready to print with all 3 parts or you are able to download them individually..

What are is the size of your bearing in CM?

Cm = computer model? The bearings are standard skateboard 608zz. 22mm in diameter and 7mm tall.

ah. Thanks :)

ah. Thanks :)

Where do you buy the bearings? I bought some bearings online, and no matter what I do, I can't get enough of the grease out so that they spin freely.


Dec 4, 2016 - Modified Dec 4, 2016
danoliver - in reply to rickseiden

I think you were probably using steel bearings. If you buy ceramic, a little more expensive, you'll see a huge improvement in spin time. Oh, and you can get them on Amazon. Search for 'ceramic bearings' (you can use the steel bearings you have—ABEC-1, probably—to add weight to the arms, so you haven't wasted any money).

Do the Ceramic bearings come greased? I know that cuts down on spin time. And it was a pain to try and decrease the steel bearings I had.

Before I found this model, I've been using a 608zz bearing as my fidget toy by itself, and now it spins very freely :-) Keeps you busy while the printer runs too!

No. I think a small amount of oil is added, but these things have so little friction that they go, and go, and go, and go, and go ... well, you get the idea.

Really like the rounded edges on this one. Gonna get plenty of miles out of it, thank you!

Glad your enjoying it

Nice little print. Took 30 minutes. Had to increase the scale 1 percent so the bearings would fit but it is manifold and does print well.

Comments deleted.

Worked great; printed straight from file with no alterations and worked perfectly with standard 22mm skateboard bearings. Had to use vice to press bearings into print but once in they were stuck firm with no glue needed, and plastic didn't crack or bend anywhere. Would recommend using 100% fill for extra strength. Total print time was around 1hr30mins on ultimaker 2.