Open Top ToM
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Description
I assume someone must have done this before, but I can't see one in Thingiverse.
There is a plan... ... (hushed tones) I'm going to make the X Carriage run to its full potential
i.e. the belt length between the pulleys - approx. 160mm. and the Y carriage run to the front of the machine approx. 130mm.
This should give me a build platform of 150 X, 120 Y and 120 Z without much trouble.
I'll need to print using PLA so that I don't need all that space heated, but I don't think that will be a problem.
I'm afraid all the people who use this in public will need to put HOT warnings on the exposed parts, but it's not as if they were behind glass before.
For those of you who don't wish to chop the top off your ToM, you can still use this carriage mod to give you 150 x 80 x 120 prints.
Instructions
Grab your handy Jigsaw and hack off the top (of the ToM).
don't cut through your LED strip stuck round the inside top (like I did, duh!) and make sure any cables are clear of the saw blade.
Move your trusty spool holder to the back of the machine.
I was amazed that I didn't even need to adjust my Z zero position, its just as rigid as before. Although I'll keep an eye on it and reinforce the back corners with aluminium (aluminum) angle if necessary.
If you want to follow along here, you'll need to have the Y carriage thingiverse.com/thing:11601.
Update:
o I've redesigned the pulley block, moving the limit switch to the front allowing the table to run to the end of the x travel.
o I've updated the X carriage to trigger the endstop
o I've now got 150mm travel on the X Axis, I need to add a wider hot plate
- added new aluminium plate for HBP 165x140
- printed item 155 * 80 * 60 (x,y,z)
- printed item 186 * 30 x 40 (x,y,z) placed diagonally
Can't really get the Y any larger without moving the head centre (as the rear columns of the case interfere with the bed)
But overall, I'm very happy with my new extended ToM. :)
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I did the same thing. I also got tired of that acrylic electronics window being a resonator, so I pulled that too. I added proper intermediary connectors to all the wires and placed the electronics aside as a separate unit. The printer is now tiny and is nearly silent.. except for the stupid mk7 fan and it's broken blades.
Now I am completely replacing the frame with t-slot extrusions and possibly panels. it's probably mostly frivolous.
Sort of on the train of my thoughts :)
Except, I have been considering replacing all the plywood on my TOM with metal scaffolding since my TOM rattles and shakes so much. I can run 3 prusas and still watch TV but cannot turn the sound high enough to cover the vibration of the plywood in on TOM.
I'm curious if this will change the accuracy with the cantilever of the Z stage effectively making it lean more "forward" towards the top. That being said it's nothing a couple pieces of angle aluminum wouldn't fix.
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I was thinking about doing this exact mod the other night but thought I better check and see if anyone else has already done it. Congrats your mod looks great!
Thanks, I was surprised to be the first, I assume others have done similar mods, but have not published them. The main benefit is the larger bed which works out well. I do have to consider cool drafts with ABS which cause de-lamination of the prints, but apart from that, I've seen no issues and PLA likes the extra cooling.
It is nice to be able to access you prints without the restrictions of the front two columns and the top of the box.