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Zero Offset E3D holder for Maker Select Mini

by 1bigpig, published

Zero Offset E3D holder for Maker Select Mini by 1bigpig Oct 18, 2016
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Summary

This is a zero offset E3D holder/mount for a Maker Select Mini (Maylan M200) printer. This part was teased on the Maker Select Mini Facebook page and Hackaday over a month ago, but the STL file was never made available. Instead of waiting any longer, I went ahead and modeled it in 123d Design. I am including the 123d Design file so that you can make changes to customize the mount for your E3D--mine is a clone and maybe different that the original or other clones.

The clamp part is reversible, so use it in whatever orientation works best for your wiring arrangement. Also, there is no fan mount on this holder. I currently use a fan/cooler holder like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:839620

I am including a reference to the Hackaday article for background information.
https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/46025-zero-offset-e3dv6-clone-hot-end-mount

Required hardware:
4 x M3 nuts
2 x M3 x 20mm screws.

You can use the existing cap screws on the X carriage, but you will only get about 2 or 3 threads of engagement. This was an area of the design that I struggled with: make it too thin and the nuts can pull through; too thick and the exiting screws will not engage the nuts. With the design file, you can change it to suit your needs if you are not happy with my choice.

About the pictures:
The green part was rapidly printed in PLA to test fit and clearance. That is why the printing surface is of such poor quality. The 5 test models took about an hour each to print. The white mount is in PETG. This is the finished, working part and at 100% infill, took about 2 hours to print.

Print Settings

Printer:

Wanhao/Monoprice Maker Select

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

.2

Infill:

100%


Notes:

I printed mine in PETG. I recommend PETG or ABS only for this project.

I also recommend supports. The two blind holes are a very close fit. Any sagging filament or loose strands will prevent the mount from firmly seating to the X carriage.

How I Designed This

123D Design

Change it to your hearts content. If you remix it, please reference it. I would love to see what changes other people make.

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This is the best adapter I've printed yet. All the others I've had to adjust or had some other minor issue with. Thank you very much.

Thanks! I hope it works out really well for you! Mine is still going strong!

Hackaday released the .stl back in october http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402

Monoprice Select Mini E3Dv6 Zero Offset Mount
Feb 3, 2017 - Modified Feb 3, 2017
1bigpig - in reply to brianbochichio

Yea, I saw the article but never the STL file. So I created this one and released it mid October. Plus this one has the 123D Design file.

Wish I saw this before I mounted my V6, as the model I used offset the nozzle upwards and had to raise the bed more than I was comfortable with. Ah well.

You can always reprint a this new mount and give it a go. I have had very good luck with it--perfect fit and all--but I am using an E3D clone from Amazon. It is a quick print so you have nothing to loose but a few pennies worth of plastic. Note, use ABS or PETG. I would not trust PLA to hold this in place long term.

Jan 25, 2017 - Modified Jan 25, 2017
rich1051414 - in reply to 1bigpig

Mine is a clone as well, which is why it was too high. I just don't feel like screwing with the belt tensioner to get the nuts off, too lazy for that, but I will definitely try to remember to print this off before the next time I have it broke down. It's not a problem anymore, as I just picked up a borosilicate plate which made up the difference.

The problem with PLA is it is difficult to get it to clamp hard enough without breaking while still preventing the heatsink from spinning, but otherwise, PLA holds up as long as its quality.

Comments deleted.

Yes, the channel and the grooves are necessary because this is a zero offset mount. If you follow the link to the Hackaday article, in the second photo you will see why the mount is shaped the way it is. There are many other mounts on Thingiverse for the Mini and E3D, but they all push the extruder about 10mm towards the edge of the build table.

If you are worried about airflow, the 123d Design file is included, are you free to make changes. With that said, I have already printed quite a few things with my mount and have had ZERO problems with the heat break getting hot (or even warm).

I hope this helps.

Oct 22, 2016 - Modified Oct 22, 2016

Hi,

I haven't disassembled my hot end yet, and the e3d v6 clone is on its way. What I am curious about is why did you put a groove on the back side of your design? Is it necessary? I didn't see it on others designs and now I am not sure about its purpose?
Also is the cavity (? not sure if this is the right word) at the bottom necessary?
I have a few ideas about a channel for the air flow from the fan, and right now as it looks the groove is cutting my idea in half :(

coz this one goes inside whole way and top space is for upper wall of the black mount (on rails) and the space on back is for where belt clip on black mount

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