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Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

by jonaskuehling, published

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears by jonaskuehling Mar 1, 2012

Description

This derivative of Greg's Wade Extruder collects all the best ideas and latest features and improvements:

* Greg's excellent "Guidler" for perfectly lined up filament feed AND easy access of the hobbed bolt
* Tiltable idler-screws for opening the idler without removing the screws entirely
* 4mm elevation of whole extruder body/bolt/motor mount to allow slightly bigger 9/47 herringbone gears
* 2mm extra bolt-motor-distance for the same reason
* M4 nuts and screws for idler, since M3 screws in more than 60mm length are sometimes hard to source (at least in the common hardware stores of northern germany..)
* Well, 9/47 herringbone gears!
* All nut-traps have been corrected for correct fit (all prusa parts seem to use slightly wrong sizes.. should be 5.5mm wrench size for M3 nuts, I changed all of them to the right ISO values with additional 0.2mm clearance. Fits great for a precisely calibrated prusa)
* Additional hotend-mount option "reprapfaborg" for Stoffel15's great hotends that use 10mm shaft diameter of 20mm length (shown on one of the pictures as a cut-view); you can get one via reprap-fab.org
* 8mm thickness of motor mount (instead of 10mm) in reference to wider herringbone gear

I made STL-exports for these three hotend-mounts:
* groovemount
* jhead mount
* reprap-fab.org

My configurations were made for 0.25mm layerheight (using 0.35mm nozzle), so if you're using larger values please change the parameter in the SCAD and export your own STL. Otherwise the support-layers of bearing-hole and idler mount may not be sliced correctly.

Enjoy!


UPDATE 2012-03-12:

As Zarquon requested via comments, I uploaded a SAE compatible version of the groovemount-extruder-body as well as the big gear. Actually I simply replaced the parameters for M3/M4/M8 nuts to the values Zarquon submitted. Please leave a comment if something still doesn't fit.

UPDATE 2012-03-16:

* Added gear-sided nut traps for GRRF hotend mount in the main wade SCAD file
* Uploaded additional small gear STL for 4.2mm center hole diameter as requested by pharaohabq in the comments

UPDATE 2012-03-26:

* Added new parameter "less_idler_bolt_dist" to adjust distance between idler and hobbed bolt, in case the idler isn't exactly vertical when tightened but slightly angled towards to hobbed bolt, which could cause the spring loaded screw to popp off the slots to the top of the idler. Default is "0", adjust for your own requirements if neccesary.

Recent Comments

view all

Can I change the slot of the idler for 1.75 filament?
I changed extruder itself into 1.75mm version, but the slot of the idler remains for 3mm.

Is there a source for all those variables? For example jhead_mount=256. What does this mean? Some reference would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

I like this extruder and have been trying to print various variants for about the last week. Hit the same issue as Thav described where it is not slicing properly in Slic3r.

So, anyway, Nettfab was able to fix it, but better than that it also shows where the issue is so the SCAD file can be fixed too. It appears that the problem is some intersecting corners inside the screw holes. At this bit of code:
-------------------------------
// screw holes 30°
for(tilt=[1:6]){
translate([0,0,(wade_block_width-idler_nut_trap_depth+idler_nut_thickness/2)])
rotate([tilt*5,0,0])
rotate([0,0,30])
translate([0,0,-28])
cylinder(r=idler_mounting_hole_diameter/2,h=wade_block_depth+10,$fn=6);
}
--------------------------------
Found that it could easily be fixed by replacing that section as follows:
---------------------------------
// screw holes 30°
union()
{
for(tilt=[1:6]){
translate([0,0,(wade_block_width-idler_nut_trap_depth+idler_nut_thickness/2)])
rotate([tilt*5,0,0])
rotate([0,0,30])
translate([0,0,-28])
cylinder(r=idler_mounting_hole_diameter/2,h=wade_block_depth+10,$fn=6);
}
translate([-2,0,(wade_block_width)])
rotate([115,0,0])
cube([4,6,4]);
}
---------------------------------

Instructions

For thicker layers than 0.25mm change parameter "layer_thickness" in the "jonaskuehling_gregs_wade_v3.scad" (line 177) and export your own STL.

All hotend-mounts of Gregs latest "Guidler" version are still supported, have a look at the SCAD.

"jonaskuehling_default.scad" is my collection of useful modules like nuttrap(), polyhole(), roundcorner() etc., heavily based on prusa's, greg's and nophead's files, but modified to fit my own needs.

Some values for M3 and M4 nuts may be hard-coded due to the lack of time. Please contact me if you'd like to suggest any change.

File Name

Downloads

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Comments

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yoho on Feb 12, 2014 said:

Can I change the slot of the idler for 1.75 filament?
I changed extruder itself into 1.75mm version, but the slot of the idler remains for 3mm.

core_security on Feb 1, 2014 said:

Is there a source for all those variables? For example jhead_mount=256. What does this mean? Some reference would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

PlasmaBird on Jan 27, 2014 said:

When using a j-head hotend is there any advantage of using the jhead version over a groovemount?

philsson on Oct 6, 2013 said:

This extruder seems great!. I just printed one out, disassembled my printer and realized it does not fit on my prusa i3! =(.. I've searched the web for this reloaded one now for some time but can't find one. Anyone here that has done the mods for prusa i3? Would appreciate a lot. Thanx anyways for the design, just bad I could not use it.

Foxen on Jul 1, 2013 said:

I want to use a prusa Nozzle which stls should i take ?

* groovemount
* jhead mount
* reprap-fab.org

?

Thav on Jun 17, 2013 said:

Slic3r still appears to have trouble with the STLs output by this model. Non-manifold, holes near edges, etc. I suspect it has to do with the idler fulcrum, since it looks hollow if you look at it in OpenSCAD, but I have no experience to back that up.

WHITECOAT on Jan 29, 2014 said:

I like this extruder and have been trying to print various variants for about the last week. Hit the same issue as Thav described where it is not slicing properly in Slic3r.

So, anyway, Nettfab was able to fix it, but better than that it also shows where the issue is so the SCAD file can be fixed too. It appears that the problem is some intersecting corners inside the screw holes. At this bit of code:
-------------------------------
// screw holes 30°
for(tilt=[1:6]){
translate([0,0,(wade_block_width-idler_nut_trap_depth+idler_nut_thickness/2)])
rotate([tilt*5,0,0])
rotate([0,0,30])
translate([0,0,-28])
cylinder(r=idler_mounting_hole_diameter/2,h=wade_block_depth+10,$fn=6);
}
--------------------------------
Found that it could easily be fixed by replacing that section as follows:
---------------------------------
// screw holes 30°
union()
{
for(tilt=[1:6]){
translate([0,0,(wade_block_width-idler_nut_trap_depth+idler_nut_thickness/2)])
rotate([tilt*5,0,0])
rotate([0,0,30])
translate([0,0,-28])
cylinder(r=idler_mounting_hole_diameter/2,h=wade_block_depth+10,$fn=6);
}
translate([-2,0,(wade_block_width)])
rotate([115,0,0])
cube([4,6,4]);
}
---------------------------------

Ohmarinus on May 9, 2013 said:

Okay, I have designed this one in OpenSCAD to be compatible with the Budaschnozzle, very exciting how it prints! :)

All I did was remove the extruder hole, really curious if it works.

Oh, and ofcourse I set the layer print height to 0.325 (what I'm printing it with).

Just ran fresh out of my good filament, so now printing it with some mediocre filament I bought with the printer that the vendor ripped me off with... Wish me luck!

Tomorrow I'm receiving my Budaschnozzle, going to fit it on my Reprap Air, also reprinted the X-carriage, but I'm not sure if I'm using the best one for my printer.

Thanks for this nice Extruder!

Rovida on Apr 16, 2013 said:

Slic3r tell me that there is an hole and also that some face are overlapped.... any help?

a1cypher on Aug 25, 2013 said:

Ran it through netfabb and it cleaned it up for Slic3r. No problems slicing, although it did do something odd where it would cover some of the holes with a single layer infill around the middle. This was easy enough to cut out afterwards with a knife.

Jasper1984 on May 7, 2013 said:

I get that all the time, I just make it a habit to looking at the gcode in pronterface to check that it is already.(It usually is)

Gigahurtz on Apr 15, 2013 said:

I place my J-head into the holder, but even though it is flush, the screw hole mounts are partially blocked (maybe 30%). Is this normal?

Ohmarinus on Apr 12, 2013 said:

Anyone who can tell me where the printed ring has to go?

Currently printing the herringbone wheels, after I will start the body. I have bought a new hotend which has a less-wide piece of PTFE insulator so I guess I have to print the 'Groovemount' version instead of the one with the screws that go in from the side to lock the hotend.

Knimrod on Apr 12, 2013 said:

The ring goes in the bottom (as printed) bearing pocket. I assume because this pocket is created with bridging and the bearing seat would need to be flat and smooth. That's how I installed mine anyway. Even so, I had to do a lot of hand trimming in the pocket to make the bearing seat flush and perpendicular to the filament path. YMMV...

labsud on Apr 6, 2013 said:

Some of the stl files have holes (jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_groovemount, jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead, jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_reprapfaborg).

So, i tried to regenerate STL exports, opening scad file with Openscad 2013-01. Exported file contain holes and slincing with slic3r did not render proprely.

So i tried with openscad 2013-03, or an older 2011-12. Results were the same....

Any idea on what is the problem? What version of openscad did you use to render good files :

* jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead
* jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead-BODY-ONLY
* jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_SAE_groovemount

PS: Render have been done on mac...

jamesmoe on Mar 22, 2013 said:

Where are the SCAD files for the gears? I tried to compile the gregs-wadebits.scad with the needed inc/parametric_involute_gear_v5.0.scad and just got the standard gear.
Great derivative of the extruder. Nicely done.

Thav on Jun 11, 2013 said:

Yeah, looking for these now. The Wade Goes Fishing thing this is marked as derived from may be it, but it's missing some includes.

mattwj2005 on Mar 8, 2013 said:

Is there anyway of buying a full kit of this? plastics, screws, spring etc.

Thanks

mattwj2005 on Feb 15, 2013 said:

Any way of getting a detailed BOM?

Can I get lengths, types of springs, etc

danfinlay on Jun 23, 2013 said:

Answered elsewhere:
3 x 608zz bearings
1 x Hobbed Bolt
2 x Springs
2 x M4 rods
1 x M8 (small) smooth rod
2 x M8 Blocking Nuts

mattwj2005 on Feb 15, 2013 said:

Anyway of getting a detailed BOM list? Rod length and what not. Thanks in advance.

thab2knoe on Jan 15, 2013 said:

Hi,

I noticed a few small things I wanted to add in. Does anyone have this in a solidworks file they could possibly send to me including the herringbone gears large and small. [email protected] Thank you!

diegudio on Jan 6, 2013 said:

Hi! Thanks for the work on this extruder!
I was wondering if you can upload a fully-assembled extruder (all the components here presented) as .stl because in the software I'm using I'm not able to align the independent components and I don't want to shift to scad. Thanks!

ekaggrat on Dec 28, 2012 said:

where can i find the scad file to generate the herringbone gears for this exturder?

Timelord83 on Dec 13, 2012 said:

I am having issues every time i print the small gear mod hole dia 4 2 stl the end with the teeth are open. you can look down in to the gear asee that they are not connected but at the bottom. the hole that runs through is all the way up everything seems nice and straight and free of error. but i dont' think the end is supposed to be open.. any help?

moos79 on Oct 28, 2012 said:

Hi,
anyone who has the specs of the bearings that have to be used?
Looking for some kind of BoM of this nice extruder!

avalero on Oct 30, 2012 said:

3 x 608zz bearings
1 x Hobbed Bolt
2 x Springs
2 x M4 rods
1 x M8 (small) smooth rod
2 x M8 Blocking Nuts

MattK on Oct 24, 2012 said:

Hi, I'm working on my first Prusa and I'd like to use this extruder in my build.  I have purchased a 1.75mm 0.35mm nozzle MakerGear hotend kit.  To make that work with this extruder all I have to do is set the hotend mount to be groovemount, set the filament feed hole to around 2.25, set filament diameter to 1.75, and I should be good to go correct?

DerekD on Aug 1, 2012 said:

I've put some assembly instructions with phots up on this page:

http://reprapkit.com/wiki/inde...

It's a wiki, so feel free to edit.

nothinman on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Hi. I got my extruder parts today, and they include two gears, two main parts, and a plastic washer (approx 22mm x 15.5mm x 1mm). Where should it go? I guess it's for one bearing or the other, but not sure. Also, there seems to be some space behind the semi-open bearing holder. Kinda looks like it's for a metal washer. Is it? I know it's simple, but some instructions would be good. Couldn't find them anywhere! :(

Thanks in advance.

RegionX on Jul 25, 2012 said:

Hi, the printed washer goes on the gear side behind the bearing it performs the same job as the gap you mentioned on the other side, stops the inner part of the bearing from rubbing as the hobbed bolt rotates. No need for a metal washer there.

RegionX on Jul 22, 2012 said:

Thanks for an awesome design but I think I'm doing something wrong. I have a J-head MK-IVB with an acrylic groovemount piece. My old original greg's (i think) had a much shallower hole at the bottom and fit perfectly but with the deeper hole in this design my j-head moves every time it extrudes.

What am I doing wrong?

RegionX on Jul 24, 2012 said:

Seriously struggling....

Millertymer47 on Jun 14, 2012 said:

Is there anyway that I could get the parts in Solidworks format or step file format or iges file format? Or just get the dimensions so I can draw it up myself? I would like to model the whole thing up in Solidworks assembly before I try to build it. Thanks.

simonkuehling on Jul 16, 2012 said:

Hi,

unfortunately this model is just coded directly in OpenSCAD and therefor only available in .scad format or exported as STL.
You cand find alle dimensions in the OpenSCAD code of course. Or maybe you could use some tool like netfabb basic (www.netfabb.com) - which is free for personal use - to meas
ure all necessary dimensions directly on the STL to recreate the model in SolidWorks.

But if it's just to test the assembly i am quite sure you can import an STL into SolidWorks as well!

Jtisdo on Jun 5, 2012 said:

I would suggest the following 3 changes to the design .. if you would like me to make some changes to the SCAD i can try and send them to you. Please advise :


1. The suport of the idler Hinge has a small base that just goes up and connects fully to the hinge -- I had great trouble printing that in ABS -- there is no need to make it that small .. it should have a wider base at go up conically to attach to the hinge.

2. The top of the main extruder ha
s nearly ZERO thickness for the screw holes the top is almost one layer at the apex of the hole -- top could be made another 1mm taller at that point so that screw/bolt doesn't fly out the hole ..

3. The idler holder has "rounded" top-sides - that seems cosmetic only but it's making the top thi
n/weak .. one could just make a clean square part.

jonaskuehling on Jun 5, 2012 said:

Hi,

thanks a lot for your feedback. Currently we're working hard on a new RepRap prototype as well as more projects, so spare time is rather limited.. If you got the skill, please feel free to publish a derivative of this extruder containing your mentioned modifications as I see only little chance to
have a take on your request soon.

Thanks in advance,
Jonas

gtg252b on May 23, 2012 said:

Awesome mods! One quick question:

Has anyone had any luck printing a 1.75mm version? When I change filament_feed_hole_d and filament_diameter, it seems to mess up the idler (or at least move it off z=0).

Thanks!

misan on Jun 5, 2012 said:

I was about to post the same problem, that it is common with Greg's too. I guess we'll have to find out our way :-)

kurt_ek on May 10, 2012 said:

Hi! This looks quite awesome! But I just have a few questions:

How much Z-axis space would I lose if I go with the groove mount or the J-head mount? I'm using a J-Head MK-IV B and I'm barely at the 100mm Z-height and I'd like to keep that (actually, it'd be really cool to improve that, but I think I'd need to redesign a few things :) )

The other question is
this: what infill % would you recommend and material? I read that for the heringbones it's best to use about 80-90% infill and PLA due to the hardness. What do you think?

Thank you and thank you very much for the design and files :)

jonaskuehling on Jun 5, 2012 said:

As to z-axis space the prusa design is quite limited. Using a reprap-fab.org-hotend* along with this extruder will lead to 80-90mm possible print height, depending on the design of your printbed.

*) which is of a comparable length as a J-Head I think, about 65-70mm.

simonkuehling on May 17, 2012 said:

Let me quickly fill in for jonas since he is quite busy an the moment - at least for the infill and material-questions.

We usually print our extruders at 25% rectilinear infill, 3 solid layers and 3 perimeters with slic3r - which gives a nice sturdy part. Our standard layer height is 0.25mm with a 0.35mm nozzle.

You really want to print the extruder body in ABS due to the thermal load that conducts through the ins
ulator and the thermal radiation from a heated bed.
You MAY have luck with a PLA extruder if you only print PLA without a heated bed - depending on the hot end and insulator-ventilation of course.

The Herringbones do also fine with the slicing settings mentioned above - PLA is in fact really hard a
nd well-suited for the gears, but ABS works great as well if you add some silicone-lubrication-spray every now and then. My oldest ABS wade gear did more than 1000 hours of printing to date without noticeable wear.

Chillance on Apr 22, 2012 said:

Hey, could you upload the gregs-wadebits.scad for the modified gears? I want to make sure amount of teeth are correct, so my calibration will be correct... :)

I'm using this one as it was the one Iliked the most of all other Wade ones...

jonaskuehling on Jun 5, 2012 said:

Hi, actually I only modified the STLs from Stoffel15's Extruder which I linked this to be a derivative of. There's a thing here in the thingiverse, called something like "parametric herringbone gears" or similar what I suppose to be the initial source for Stoffel15's gears.

Looks like this one may have been the one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

AnotherReprapper on Apr 9, 2012 said:

This extruder looks great.

Am using openscad+slic3r 0.7.1.

I'd love to print it but slic3r is filling in the bottom half of the hot end mount hole. It also omits the bottom hole for the long tilt screws.

Not sure why the problems as I have the layer height set correctly and have tried different slic3r perimeters, fill an
gles etc. but still can't seem to slice it correctly. Can you share your slic3r config?

jonaskuehling on Apr 9, 2012 said:

Did you try fixing the generated STL via http://cloud.netfabb.com before slicing?

karandex on Apr 6, 2012 said:

I cant align those herringbone. can you help with some assembly instruction.

jonaskuehling on Apr 9, 2012 said:

I will upload a photo of the assembled extruder this week.

jamesglanville on Apr 3, 2012 said:

I want to use this with parcans mk2 hotend, which has a groovemount fitting. However, the groovemount stl does not appear to have anything to hold the groove :s am I missing something?

jonaskuehling on Apr 3, 2012 said:

Groovemount usually uses additional wooden or metallic mount sheets that are fastened together with the extruder body when mounted onto the x-carriage like the parts you see at the attached photo from the Makergear website. The top of the insulator is pushed into the extruder body while the groove stays right beneath the body so that some kind of mount piece can slide into the groove to hold the insulator in place.

If you prefer to fix the insulator directly inside the extruder body you should try a hotend mount option like "jhead". Can't promise that it will fit your insulator dimensions, you should check that before.

Hackens on Apr 2, 2012 said:

Hey, I guess you commented out the translate() call (around line 460 if I get it right) where the legacy_mount option applies. I guess that you probably want to make the legacy_mount option default to "false" for wade() and reenable this line. It lets us Mendel users print great your great coldend :)

jonaskuehling on Apr 3, 2012 said:

Good point, done :-)

gcolbourn on Mar 30, 2012 said:

Please could you upload a 0.35mm layer height version?

jonaskuehling on Apr 3, 2012 said:

Sure, which hotend-mount do you need?

Entropy85 on Mar 26, 2012 said:

Would it be possible to get an stl of the jhead without the idler on there? Just the body with the J head mount? I'm printing it on a modified Huxley and I'm not able to fit the entire stl on my build plate. Thanks!

jonaskuehling on Mar 26, 2012 said:

Sure - can't promise to upload it this evening, but as soon as I get back to my desk I will.

Which layer height do you prefer?

GeorgeH on Mar 26, 2012 said:

Nice photos - what kind of camera/lens do you use?

jonaskuehling on Mar 26, 2012 said:

Thanks, it's a Canon PowerShot G10 as well as iPhone 4.

hairykiwi on Mar 26, 2012 said:

I've tried using Slic3r 0.7.1 with stls (both 'fixed' by netfabb and direct from openscad) of 0.25, 0.3 and 0.4mm layer height, (for an Arcol - which shouldn't be a factor) and in all instances, the bridging from 'island' to support the lower face of the hinge is non-existent (as shown in the screen capture of the 0.25mm layer ht gcode). FYI, I also measured the height from build base to bottom of bridge (in the 0.4mm layer height model): 7.75 mm / 0.4 mm layer ht = 19.375. Is this fraction of a missing layer (19.375 vs 19 or 20) causing slic3r omit the bridge? As you can see, all other bridging appears to be OK. I did try printing - it failed . :'(

hairykiwi on Mar 26, 2012 said:

Is it possible you could share a slic3r config file that worked with this part please?

TechnoBill on Mar 25, 2012 said:

I love this version expecially for those that like to change the filament alot. However I think there is a small design flaw with the idler for this fitting? With the angle that the idler sits at when it is tight enough to hold the filament in place, the top is closer in than the bottom, so this 'encorages' the tiltable screws to want to shift up as you tighten and I fear they may pop off the idler. If the back of the idler got thicker towads the top, then this could encorage the spung tilable screws to move down when tightened and lock into place rather than up. I hope I explained that clearly. :-E

TechnoBill on Mar 25, 2012 said:

OK well I printed mine with a modified Idler and for me with spring loaded tiltable screws it hangs on much better now without the screws wanting ti slide off the top. I change the angle of the back of the ider by 10 degres so it was thicker at the top. That wa th bacl does not slopw in such a way they the springs want to pop off. Another solution is to pack the holes inside the idler where the bearing is held to bring it forward a bit. then the idler does not lean forward so far.

rnakata808 on Mar 24, 2012 said:

Is this compatible with a makergear hotend? Im not sure how hotend is supposed to mount. Making my first reprap right now. Im making a sae reprap but i wanna just make the extruder metric. Are metric parts easy to source in Hawaii? Any suggestions as to what to choose.

jonaskuehling on Mar 24, 2012 said:

The Makergear hotend makes use of the groovemount option, so yes, it should be compatible with the groovemount version of this wade extruder.

rnakata808 on Mar 24, 2012 said:

Also any suggestions on the hobbled bolt?

Pawl on Mar 24, 2012 said:

There's a chance this could get merged into the main Prusa repository. However, Joaz has some good points about the licensing and the fishbone gears: https://github.com/prusajr/Pru...

jonaskuehling on Mar 24, 2012 said:

Hi Pawl, please contact me via email if I can help somehow:

[email protected]

rglory on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Is there source for big gear? I need to move hobbed bolt 2mm deeper...

jonaskuehling on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Not a real source file as you would expect, I just hacked Stoffel15's STL files via import(); in OpenSCAD. If you conatct me via email I will send you a modified version.

[email protected]

scm77 on Mar 15, 2012 said:

Awesome, I've printed it already.

It would be nice to have nut-traps for the bolts in the GRRF hotend version to get more clearance for the gear.

jonaskuehling on Mar 16, 2012 said:

I just uploaded a new version of the main SCAD file containing the modifications you requested. There are nut-traps in the GRRF hotend mount at the gear-side now. Please note that there's a support layer that needs to be drilled between nut-traps and screw holes for printability. My default layer-height is set to 0.25mm, so you might want to adjust the "layer_thickness" parameter in code for your own needs.

PharaohABQ on Mar 15, 2012 said:

Could you Make a .STL of the Small Fish gear with certer bore of 4.2mm? I have tried, but the code keeps crashing on me.

Thanks a Bunch!

jonaskuehling on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Done 8-)

small-gear-mod_holedia-4-2.stl

rglory on Mar 11, 2012 said:

Great job! 8-)

This is 3mm filament version, isn't it? Is code configurable to make 1.75mm version?

Thanks

jonaskuehling on Mar 11, 2012 said:

This is configured to be a 3mm version, right. But sure it's configurable since the whole extruder is totally based on Greg's code.

You might be interested in lines 178/179:

filament_feed_hole_d=3.5;
filament_diameter=3;

So changing these values to 2.25 and 1.75 should work, I think.

indieflow on Mar 10, 2012 said:

I think you may have forgot to upload the following inc/parametric_involute_gear_v5.0.scad ;)

jonaskuehling on Mar 11, 2012 said:

The gears are derived vom Stoffel15's "Wade goes Fishing" http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

I modified the STLs via STL-import with OpenSCAD for better fit of the nut slot etc.. Didn't notice how the gears were made or where they were derived from. So thanks for the hint anyway :-)

librav on Mar 6, 2012 said:

I'm getting too much shrinkage in the area of the idler screw slots, and would like to print the idler by itself. How big a chore is it to separate the idler from the body? I guess it just needs to be removed from the .scad file. Which file has the jhead body in it? Great job! You cleaned up a bunch of irritating issues.

jonaskuehling on Mar 6, 2012 said:

The main file containing both, the wade body and the idler, is the first you find in the list on the left, it's called "jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3.scad". Somewhere in the first quarter of the code you find a few lines that call the different modules like "wadeidler()" and "bearing_washer()" and arrange them horizontally for printing. the wade body is called somewhat earlier, I marked the lines with "/////// RENDER EXTRUDER ///////" so I'm sure you can't miss them :-) Just uncomment the "wade(hotend_mount=XXX);" line of your choice for your favored hotend mount like jhead for example.

I you only need the idler, uncomment all "wade(..);"-lines within "///RENDER...///" as well as the mentioned "bearing_washer();" few lines beneath and you will have the pure idler.

Otherwise you could also just wait a few more minutes until i've uploaded a seperate STL for the idler 8-)

phord on Mar 3, 2012 said:

Note: The layer_thickness (not layer_height) parameter is on line 177. (OpenScad has no search feature.)

jonaskuehling on Mar 3, 2012 said:

Thanks for the hint, modified the instructions!

doctek on Mar 2, 2012 said:

The hot end from reprap-fab.org sounds interesting. Unfortunately, my German is very poor (nonexistant). Is there any English language info available on it?

misan on Mar 3, 2012 said:

I have bought two of them. They work well.

I cannot read German, but I use google-chrome that translates the content on the fly for me.

jonaskuehling on Mar 2, 2012 said:

Sadly I don't know of english information about the hotend. But I would recommend contacting Wolfgang a.k.a. Stoffel15 (the guy behind reprap-fab.org) via email, I'm sure he will help you with any question. Made all good experiences with him.

Otherwise don't hesitate to contact me, I will try to help as good as possible.

Zarquon on Mar 1, 2012 said:

My scad knowledge isn
’t good enough to see how parametric this really is. If I switch the m8 and m4 sizes in the metric.scad to be 5/16in and #6 screws would that effectively cobble together a SAE version? What size did you hard code in for the m4 nut (SAE#6 screws would need ~8mm)? My SAE prusa still uses m3 inste
ad of SAE#4 so I’m not concerned about those.

jonaskuehling on Mar 1, 2012 said:

Well, I wasn't sure if I changed every value for screws and nuts in the entire code, so i uploaded the metric.scad in case any dependencies were left..

If you tell me your needed screw/nut sizes in detail, i will make modified version for you, just let me know. Like idler-screws, idler-screw-nuts, base mount nut traps (for mount on x carriage), idler-hinge, nema17 mount holes, hobbed bolt, hotend mount...

OpenBuilds on Mar 1, 2012 said:

Nice job! :-D

I too was looking all over for the different mods, just to have this exact one

Thank you

Mark

DigitalBytes on Mar 1, 2012 said:

Great timing. I was just pulling down the other files to print one of these, nice to have all these improvements in one place.

Also those are great photo's. They look like product placement photos for a magazine. How do you take those shots?

jonaskuehling on Mar 1, 2012 said:

Thanks - actually I forgot to upload the extruder STLs, fixed that a second ago!

For good photos it's all about light - it can hardly be too dark for a nice shot :-) I use about 50W full spectrum daylight neon tube on top in combination with several 3W cold white LED spots..

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