Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears
Description
* Greg's excellent "Guidler" for perfectly lined up filament feed AND easy access of the hobbed bolt
* Tiltable idler-screws for opening the idler without removing the screws entirely
* 4mm elevation of whole extruder body/bolt/motor mount to allow slightly bigger 9/47 herringbone gears
* 2mm extra bolt-motor-distance for the same reason
* M4 nuts and screws for idler, since M3 screws in more than 60mm length are sometimes hard to source (at least in the common hardware stores of northern germany..)
* Well, 9/47 herringbone gears!
* All nut-traps have been corrected for correct fit (all prusa parts seem to use slightly wrong sizes.. should be 5.5mm wrench size for M3 nuts, I changed all of them to the right ISO values with additional 0.2mm clearance. Fits great for a precisely calibrated prusa)
* Additional hotend-mount option "reprapfaborg" for Stoffel15's great hotends that use 10mm shaft diameter of 20mm length (shown on one of the pictures as a cut-view); you can get one via reprap-fab.org
* 8mm thickness of motor mount (instead of 10mm) in reference to wider herringbone gear
I made STL-exports for these three hotend-mounts:
* groovemount
* jhead mount
* reprap-fab.org
My configurations were made for 0.25mm layerheight (using 0.35mm nozzle), so if you're using larger values please change the parameter in the SCAD and export your own STL. Otherwise the support-layers of bearing-hole and idler mount may not be sliced correctly.
Enjoy!
UPDATE 2012-03-12:
As Zarquon requested via comments, I uploaded a SAE compatible version of the groovemount-extruder-body as well as the big gear. Actually I simply replaced the parameters for M3/M4/M8 nuts to the values Zarquon submitted. Please leave a comment if something still doesn't fit.
UPDATE 2012-03-16:
* Added gear-sided nut traps for GRRF hotend mount in the main wade SCAD file
* Uploaded additional small gear STL for 4.2mm center hole diameter as requested by pharaohabq in the comments
UPDATE 2012-03-26:
* Added new parameter "less_idler_bolt_dist" to adjust distance between idler and hobbed bolt, in case the idler isn't exactly vertical when tightened but slightly angled towards to hobbed bolt, which could cause the spring loaded screw to popp off the slots to the top of the idler. Default is "0", adjust for your own requirements if neccesary.
Instructions
All hotend-mounts of Gregs latest "Guidler" version are still supported, have a look at the SCAD.
"jonaskuehling_default.scad" is my collection of useful modules like nuttrap(), polyhole(), roundcorner() etc., heavily based on prusa's, greg's and nophead's files, but modified to fit my own needs.
Some values for M3 and M4 nuts may be hard-coded due to the lack of time. Please contact me if you'd like to suggest any change.
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Slic3r tell me that there is an hole and also that some face are overlapped.... any help?
I place my J-head into the holder, but even though it is flush, the screw hole mounts are partially blocked (maybe 30%). Is this normal?
Anyone who can tell me where the printed ring has to go?
Currently printing the herringbone wheels, after I will start the body. I have bought a new hotend which has a less-wide piece of PTFE insulator so I guess I have to print the 'Groovemount' version instead of the one with the screws that go in from the side to lock the hotend.
The ring goes in the bottom (as printed) bearing pocket. I assume because this pocket is created with bridging and the bearing seat would need to be flat and smooth. That's how I installed mine anyway. Even so, I had to do a lot of hand trimming in the pocket to make the bearing seat flush and perpendicular to the filament path. YMMV...
Some of the stl files have holes (jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_groovemount, jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead, jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_reprapfaborg).
So, i tried to regenerate STL exports, opening scad file with Openscad 2013-01. Exported file contain holes and slincing with slic3r did not render proprely.
So i tried with openscad 2013-03, or an older 2011-12. Results were the same....
Any idea on what is the problem? What version of openscad did you use to render good files :
* jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead
* jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_jhead-BODY-ONLY
* jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3_SAE_groovemount
PS: Render have been done on mac...
Where are the SCAD files for the gears? I tried to compile the gregs-wadebits.scad with the needed inc/parametric_involute_gear_v5.0.scad and just got the standard gear.
Great derivative of the extruder. Nicely done.
Is there anyway of buying a full kit of this? plastics, screws, spring etc.
Thanks
Any way of getting a detailed BOM?
Can I get lengths, types of springs, etc
Anyway of getting a detailed BOM list? Rod length and what not. Thanks in advance.
Hi,
I noticed a few small things I wanted to add in. Does anyone have this in a solidworks file they could possibly send to me including the herringbone gears large and small. thab2knoe@yahoo.com. Thank you!
Hi! Thanks for the work on this extruder!
I was wondering if you can upload a fully-assembled extruder (all the components here presented) as .stl because in the software I'm using I'm not able to align the independent components and I don't want to shift to scad. Thanks!
where can i find the scad file to generate the herringbone gears for this exturder?
I am having issues every time i print the small gear mod hole dia 4 2 stl the end with the teeth are open. you can look down in to the gear asee that they are not connected but at the bottom. the hole that runs through is all the way up everything seems nice and straight and free of error. but i dont' think the end is supposed to be open.. any help?
Hi,
anyone who has the specs of the bearings that have to be used?
Looking for some kind of BoM of this nice extruder!
Hi, I'm working on my first Prusa and I'd like to use this extruder in my build. I have purchased a 1.75mm 0.35mm nozzle MakerGear hotend kit. To make that work with this extruder all I have to do is set the hotend mount to be groovemount, set the filament feed hole to around 2.25, set filament diameter to 1.75, and I should be good to go correct?
I've put some assembly instructions with phots up on this page:
http://reprapkit.com/wiki/inde...
It's a wiki, so feel free to edit.
Hi. I got my extruder parts today, and they include two gears, two main parts, and a plastic washer (approx 22mm x 15.5mm x 1mm). Where should it go? I guess it's for one bearing or the other, but not sure. Also, there seems to be some space behind the semi-open bearing holder. Kinda looks like it's for a metal washer. Is it? I know it's simple, but some instructions would be good. Couldn't find them anywhere! :(
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for an awesome design but I think I'm doing something wrong. I have a J-head MK-IVB with an acrylic groovemount piece. My old original greg's (i think) had a much shallower hole at the bottom and fit perfectly but with the deeper hole in this design my j-head moves every time it extrudes.
What am I doing wrong?
Is there anyway that I could get the parts in Solidworks format or step file format or iges file format? Or just get the dimensions so I can draw it up myself? I would like to model the whole thing up in Solidworks assembly before I try to build it. Thanks.
Hi,
unfortunately this model is just coded directly in OpenSCAD and therefor only available in .scad format or exported as STL.
You cand find alle dimensions in the OpenSCAD code of course. Or maybe you could use some tool like netfabb basic (www.netfabb.com) - which is free for personal use - to meas
ure all necessary dimensions directly on the STL to recreate the model in SolidWorks.
But if it's just to test the assembly i am quite sure you can import an STL into SolidWorks as well!
I would suggest the following 3 changes to the design .. if you would like me to make some changes to the SCAD i can try and send them to you. Please advise :
1. The suport of the idler Hinge has a small base that just goes up and connects fully to the hinge -- I had great trouble printing that in ABS -- there is no need to make it that small .. it should have a wider base at go up conically to attach to the hinge.
2. The top of the main extruder ha
s nearly ZERO thickness for the screw holes the top is almost one layer at the apex of the hole -- top could be made another 1mm taller at that point so that screw/bolt doesn't fly out the hole ..
3. The idler holder has "rounded" top-sides - that seems cosmetic only but it's making the top thi
n/weak .. one could just make a clean square part.
Hi,
thanks a lot for your feedback. Currently we're working hard on a new RepRap prototype as well as more projects, so spare time is rather limited.. If you got the skill, please feel free to publish a derivative of this extruder containing your mentioned modifications as I see only little chance to
have a take on your request soon.
Thanks in advance,
Jonas
Awesome mods! One quick question:
Has anyone had any luck printing a 1.75mm version? When I change filament_feed_hole_d and filament_diameter, it seems to mess up the idler (or at least move it off z=0).
Thanks!
Hi! This looks quite awesome! But I just have a few questions:
How much Z-axis space would I lose if I go with the groove mount or the J-head mount? I'm using a J-Head MK-IV B and I'm barely at the 100mm Z-height and I'd like to keep that (actually, it'd be really cool to improve that, but I think I'd need to redesign a few things :) )
The other question is
this: what infill % would you recommend and material? I read that for the heringbones it's best to use about 80-90% infill and PLA due to the hardness. What do you think?
Thank you and thank you very much for the design and files :)
As to z-axis space the prusa design is quite limited. Using a reprap-fab.org-hotend* along with this extruder will lead to 80-90mm possible print height, depending on the design of your printbed.
*) which is of a comparable length as a J-Head I think, about 65-70mm.
Let me quickly fill in for jonas since he is quite busy an the moment - at least for the infill and material-questions.
We usually print our extruders at 25% rectilinear infill, 3 solid layers and 3 perimeters with slic3r - which gives a nice sturdy part. Our standard layer height is 0.25mm with a 0.35mm nozzle.
You really want to print the extruder body in ABS due to the thermal load that conducts through the ins
ulator and the thermal radiation from a heated bed.
You MAY have luck with a PLA extruder if you only print PLA without a heated bed - depending on the hot end and insulator-ventilation of course.
The Herringbones do also fine with the slicing settings mentioned above - PLA is in fact really hard a
nd well-suited for the gears, but ABS works great as well if you add some silicone-lubrication-spray every now and then. My oldest ABS wade gear did more than 1000 hours of printing to date without noticeable wear.
Hey, could you upload the gregs-wadebits.scad for the modified gears? I want to make sure amount of teeth are correct, so my calibration will be correct... :)
I'm using this one as it was the one Iliked the most of all other Wade ones...
Hi, actually I only modified the STLs from Stoffel15's Extruder which I linked this to be a derivative of. There's a thing here in the thingiverse, called something like "parametric herringbone gears" or similar what I suppose to be the initial source for Stoffel15's gears.
Looks like this one may have been the one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
This extruder looks great.
Am using openscad+slic3r 0.7.1.
I'd love to print it but slic3r is filling in the bottom half of the hot end mount hole. It also omits the bottom hole for the long tilt screws.
Not sure why the problems as I have the layer height set correctly and have tried different slic3r perimeters, fill an
gles etc. but still can't seem to slice it correctly. Can you share your slic3r config?
I cant align those herringbone. can you help with some assembly instruction.
I want to use this with parcans mk2 hotend, which has a groovemount fitting. However, the groovemount stl does not appear to have anything to hold the groove :s am I missing something?
Groovemount usually uses additional wooden or metallic mount sheets that are fastened together with the extruder body when mounted onto the x-carriage like the parts you see at the attached photo from the Makergear website. The top of the insulator is pushed into the extruder body while the groove stays right beneath the body so that some kind of mount piece can slide into the groove to hold the insulator in place.
If you prefer to fix the insulator directly inside the extruder body you should try a hotend mount option like "jhead". Can't promise that it will fit your insulator dimensions, you should check that before.
Hey, I guess you commented out the translate() call (around line 460 if I get it right) where the legacy_mount option applies. I guess that you probably want to make the legacy_mount option default to "false" for wade() and reenable this line. It lets us Mendel users print great your great coldend :)
Would it be possible to get an stl of the jhead without the idler on there? Just the body with the J head mount? I'm printing it on a modified Huxley and I'm not able to fit the entire stl on my build plate. Thanks!
I've tried using Slic3r 0.7.1 with stls (both 'fixed' by netfabb and direct from openscad) of 0.25, 0.3 and 0.4mm layer height, (for an Arcol - which shouldn't be a factor) and in all instances, the bridging from 'island' to support the lower face of the hinge is non-existent (as shown in the screen capture of the 0.25mm layer ht gcode). FYI, I also measured the height from build base to bottom of bridge (in the 0.4mm layer height model): 7.75 mm / 0.4 mm layer ht = 19.375. Is this fraction of a missing layer (19.375 vs 19 or 20) causing slic3r omit the bridge? As you can see, all other bridging appears to be OK. I did try printing - it failed . :'(
I love this version expecially for those that like to change the filament alot. However I think there is a small design flaw with the idler for this fitting? With the angle that the idler sits at when it is tight enough to hold the filament in place, the top is closer in than the bottom, so this 'encorages' the tiltable screws to want to shift up as you tighten and I fear they may pop off the idler. If the back of the idler got thicker towads the top, then this could encorage the spung tilable screws to move down when tightened and lock into place rather than up. I hope I explained that clearly. :-E
OK well I printed mine with a modified Idler and for me with spring loaded tiltable screws it hangs on much better now without the screws wanting ti slide off the top. I change the angle of the back of the ider by 10 degres so it was thicker at the top. That wa th bacl does not slopw in such a way they the springs want to pop off. Another solution is to pack the holes inside the idler where the bearing is held to bring it forward a bit. then the idler does not lean forward so far.
Is this compatible with a makergear hotend? Im not sure how hotend is supposed to mount. Making my first reprap right now. Im making a sae reprap but i wanna just make the extruder metric. Are metric parts easy to source in Hawaii? Any suggestions as to what to choose.
There's a chance this could get merged into the main Prusa repository. However, Joaz has some good points about the licensing and the fishbone gears: https://github.com/prusajr/Pru...
Is there source for big gear? I need to move hobbed bolt 2mm deeper...
Awesome, I've printed it already.
It would be nice to have nut-traps for the bolts in the GRRF hotend version to get more clearance for the gear.
I just uploaded a new version of the main SCAD file containing the modifications you requested. There are nut-traps in the GRRF hotend mount at the gear-side now. Please note that there's a support layer that needs to be drilled between nut-traps and screw holes for printability. My default layer-height is set to 0.25mm, so you might want to adjust the "layer_thickness" parameter in code for your own needs.
Could you Make a .STL of the Small Fish gear with certer bore of 4.2mm? I have tried, but the code keeps crashing on me.
Thanks a Bunch!
Great job! 8-)
This is 3mm filament version, isn't it? Is code configurable to make 1.75mm version?
Thanks
This is configured to be a 3mm version, right. But sure it's configurable since the whole extruder is totally based on Greg's code.
You might be interested in lines 178/179:
filament_feed_hole_d=3.5;
filament_diameter=3;
So changing these values to 2.25 and 1.75 should work, I think.
I think you may have forgot to upload the following inc/parametric_involute_gear_v5.0.scad ;)
The gears are derived vom Stoffel15's "Wade goes Fishing" http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
I modified the STLs via STL-import with OpenSCAD for better fit of the nut slot etc.. Didn't notice how the gears were made or where they were derived from. So thanks for the hint anyway :-)
I'm getting too much shrinkage in the area of the idler screw slots, and would like to print the idler by itself. How big a chore is it to separate the idler from the body? I guess it just needs to be removed from the .scad file. Which file has the jhead body in it? Great job! You cleaned up a bunch of irritating issues.
The main file containing both, the wade body and the idler, is the first you find in the list on the left, it's called "jonaskuehling_gregs-wade-v3.scad". Somewhere in the first quarter of the code you find a few lines that call the different modules like "wadeidler()" and "bearing_washer()" and arrange them horizontally for printing. the wade body is called somewhat earlier, I marked the lines with "/////// RENDER EXTRUDER ///////" so I'm sure you can't miss them :-) Just uncomment the "wade(hotend_mount=XXX);" line of your choice for your favored hotend mount like jhead for example.
I you only need the idler, uncomment all "wade(..);"-lines within "///RENDER...///" as well as the mentioned "bearing_washer();" few lines beneath and you will have the pure idler.
Otherwise you could also just wait a few more minutes until i've uploaded a seperate STL for the idler 8-)
Note: The layer_thickness (not layer_height) parameter is on line 177. (OpenScad has no search feature.)
The hot end from reprap-fab.org sounds interesting. Unfortunately, my German is very poor (nonexistant). Is there any English language info available on it?
I have bought two of them. They work well.
I cannot read German, but I use google-chrome that translates the content on the fly for me.
Sadly I don't know of english information about the hotend. But I would recommend contacting Wolfgang a.k.a. Stoffel15 (the guy behind reprap-fab.org) via email, I'm sure he will help you with any question. Made all good experiences with him.
Otherwise don't hesitate to contact me, I will try to help as good as possible.
My scad knowledge isn
ât good enough to see how parametric this really is. If I switch the m8 and m4 sizes in the metric.scad to be 5/16in and #6 screws would that effectively cobble together a SAE version? What size did you hard code in for the m4 nut (SAE#6 screws would need ~8mm)? My SAE prusa still uses m3 inste
ad of SAE#4 so Iâm not concerned about those.
Well, I wasn't sure if I changed every value for screws and nuts in the entire code, so i uploaded the metric.scad in case any dependencies were left..
If you tell me your needed screw/nut sizes in detail, i will make modified version for you, just let me know. Like idler-screws, idler-screw-nuts, base mount nut traps (for mount on x carriage), idler-hinge, nema17 mount holes, hobbed bolt, hotend mount...
Nice job! :-D
I too was looking all over for the different mods, just to have this exact one
Thank you
Mark
Great timing. I was just pulling down the other files to print one of these, nice to have all these improvements in one place.
Also those are great photo's. They look like product placement photos for a magazine. How do you take those shots?
Thanks - actually I forgot to upload the extruder STLs, fixed that a second ago!
For good photos it's all about light - it can hardly be too dark for a nice shot :-) I use about 50W full spectrum daylight neon tube on top in combination with several 3W cold white LED spots..
License
More from jonaskuehling
Okay, I have designed this one in OpenSCAD to be compatible with the Budaschnozzle, very exciting how it prints! :)
All I did was remove the extruder hole, really curious if it works.
Oh, and ofcourse I set the layer print height to 0.325 (what I'm printing it with).
Just ran fresh out of my good filament, so now printing it with some mediocre filament I bought with the printer that the vendor ripped me off with... Wish me luck!
Tomorrow I'm receiving my Budaschnozzle, going to fit it on my Reprap Air, also reprinted the X-carriage, but I'm not sure if I'm using the best one for my printer.
Thanks for this nice Extruder!