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Twisted 6-sided Vase Basic

by MaakMijnIdee, published

Twisted 6-sided Vase Basic by MaakMijnIdee Mar 7, 2012

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159692Views 55317Downloads

Summary

This nice, easy to print vase will be a nice gift for friend or family to come along with some nice flowers!

Instructions

1) Download file
2) Generate gcode
The 3D STL is a closed file. I used Skeinforge to slice my prints (third one printing now). The 3D model is quiet tall @200mm and may not fit your 3D printer. Rescale or chop the top part to fit your printer.
Here's what I did generating gcode:

  • 3 bottom layers
  • No fill (obviously)
  • 1 extra shell (making 2 shells on wall)
  • Layer height 0,3 (to save print time)
  • Remove the top 3 layers by hand (after gcode was generated)
    3) Choose a color.
    I personally like the semi-transparent materials for these objects.
    4) Print the vase. It takes 2:30 up to 3:00 hours on my standard Ultimaker with SF settings as described above. The result is a pretty strong and good-looking vase!
    5) Enjoy!
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Aug 13, 2016 - Modified Aug 13, 2016

Model requires 0% Infill and make sure Top layers are set to 0....made this in 9 hours at 0.15 on the Taz 6 no issues printing.. Leaks like a sieve and won't hold water though due to the thin bottom layer. Why not just modify the design so it has thick enough bottom layers so it doesn't leak, and is hollowed out for printing? The design is nice, too bad only semi-functional, I printed it in a transparent PLA, only really decorative at this point.

Good Job! I can sell this desing?

If you're using Cura:
There is a checkbox in the expert settings under the section "Black Magic" called "Spiralize the outer contour", select that and you're good to go

I obviously didn't see the 0% infill... cause now I have a solid poly block

why i have the top of the box on both sizes?

Ive also got this issue too, both ends are sealed.

Thanks so much for this model. I made it on my 3D printer and it worked perfectly. Thanks so much!

Dec 4, 2015 - Modified Dec 4, 2015

Hello

I use cura with my wanaho i3 printer. The only concern is that the water is going out .
This is my settnings: What should I change?

  • Shell tickness 1,6
  • Layer height 0,2
  • Buttom / topp tickness = 2.0
    -Fill denisty = 0

My Filament diameter is 1,75 and I have 0,4 nozzle.

Please help me out:)

Did you ever figure this out?

how long does it take to print on an ultimaker?

Jul 22, 2015 - Modified Jul 22, 2015

If you want to use it to actually hold liquids, I would print it in PLA with a shell thickness of 3x the nozzle diameter (1.2mm for my .4mm nozzle). Along with that, obviously no infill and no top layer. I did it at 2mm layer height. I have done this and drink water out of it every day. No leaks, barely any precipitation outside. Tanks for the design!!

Note: I use Cura for slicing, so I don't know what this translates to in Slic3r. Sorry!

To help everyone that is asking, The model is solid to allow different nozzle sized printers to print this. If you are using Slic3r, simply slice it with your normal settings, but check the "spiral vase" option ( http://slic3r.org/blog/tip-printing-vases ). If you are using Cura, set it to 0% infill and save it as Gcode. I would recomend opening it in Notepad++ and doing "ctr+f" type in "layer" and select "find all in current document". Find which line the third to last time it says layer, and delete everything up until ";End GCode". That will remove the last three layers. As for the material, ABS and PLA will work. Just make sure that you have a proper cooling system. If printing it with the default settings does not work, increase fan speed and decrease print speed.

Good luck printing!

This is not hollow, how can I get a fixed model?

What slicer are you using? Slic3r has a "twisted vase" option, which prints solid objects with one layer wall thickness.

hello with simplify3d the interior is closed? how to set that inside the tank is empty?

yes! I noticed that too!

Jan 10, 2016 - Modified Jan 10, 2016
pinkiedestroyer - in reply to hapa10

they also have a vase mode in layer options
single outline corcskrew mode (vase mode)

Which material would be better for this? ABS or PLA? I figure ABS might be problematic due to the massive surface area causing the print to cool very fast making layer adhesion a problem, ABS likes it hot, while PLA likes it cool.

Can someone help me with setting the parameters in Replicatorg for a FF Creator Pro?

I am having trouble understanding exactly what changes to make and where to make them. I know hoe to set the "Object Infill" to 0%, and I assume that is where I would set the "Number of shells" to 2. (But not sure if this is setting the shells on the wall or not.)

So my questions are:

  • Where/how do I set the "bottom layers" to be 3?
  • Where/how do I set the Layer Height to be '0,3'? (My popup to generate g-code says the Layer Height defaults to .27 mm. Is the comma in the instructions a typo and it really means .3 mm?)
  • What exactly do I remove from the g-code to remove the top 3 layers?

I really appreciate it if someone could give me some explicit instructions on how to set these. Thanks!!

.3 layer height and 0% density

waterproof on davinci 1.0

I am learning how to configure my 3D printer settings by experimenting on your part, Thanks a lot! Great look and idea!

is it just me or is this print playing a melody for me as it lays down the plastic insane

Printrbot simple metal 2014. Yep. Clearly plays a melody.

same here

easy to make and look nice. Good start!

Hi, I am new to printing and tried to print this on my Makerbot 2 with Makerware but it came out like a solid lump of plastic (I had to cancel the job). How do I set wall thickness in Makeware as I can't seem to find the setting even in the advanced settings. I'd be grateful if soneone could let me know the correct settings for Makerware to print this object. Many thanks

dnouri - in reply to

the way to fix that is where it says density in settings put it to 0%

jpan - in reply to

in slic3er you set "infill", "solid infill every... layers" and "top solid infill" to 0. In Makerware you would probably want to do something similar.

bigcat - in reply to jpan

There doesn't seem to be settings for that in Makerware. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

Project Shapeshifter creates some very cool vase-thingies, check it out: http://www.123dapp.com/sandbox#section-shapeshifterhttp://www.123dapp.com/sandbox...

Hi, just made one on ultimaker2 with the settings of DscheyH posted earlier. I must admit it leaks water when filled. What would be best settings for watertightness? This one will be used with fake flowers, or as is, it is a beatiful design!

Use Joris but give yourself a thicker wall: 0.6mm or 0.8mm. Probably keep the layer height, maybe raise the temp 5-10°. Possibly lower the speed, not sure what you were at before.

It's so thin, even setting higher skins won't really help you. I'd recommend finishing it with a clear primer or coating the inside with plastidip.

I've got it shrunk to 50% and it looks like my slic3r default setting for small perimeters has kicked in and slowed my print speed to 30 mm/s. Has anyone printed this faster and how did it go? I know my printer could crank it out faster but I'm willing to slow it down to get a good result.

I also faced the same problem with Slic3r and I would've pulled my hair out (if I had any), but then I switched to Matterslice and it works perfectly. Give it a shot, or let me know if you figured out how to fix the Slic3r slow-ing down problem.

This is a good one. printed at 50% scale and it was my first time using spiral vase option on slic3r. Came out great!!

Print it on my Prusa Mendel with phizz's settings. Print perfectly in less than 1h1/2.
Next time I'll add a verticall shell more cause the vase is not completely waterproof.

Worked great for me in Slic3r with these settings:

0.3mm layers
2 vertical shells
0 top shells
3 bottom shells

0% fill density

Could I sell these vases if I gave credit to you?

Hi 508parkour,
my Thingiverse models are free to use as you like. If you feel you can make any profit from it, please feel free to give it a try!

Hey guy,I printed but not good enough.I dont know if its because the code.How to remove the top 3 layers by hand after the gcode is generated.?

Hi! Your instructions say to remove the top 3 layers by hand after the gcode is generated. How do you do it?

You can also just cancel the print as it gets to the top.

You could use the plugins tab in cura and select "pause at height".

The same requestion!

Sorry guys... Missed these comments tbh

It depends on your slicer. Some allow you to leave the top layers but you can also do it manually in a gcode editor. Simply save the generated gcode, open it in the editor (notepad will do) and delete the top layer in the code. These can be found on the bottom of the gcode and can be identified by the highest z-numbers', for example z190.6. Please leave the bottom lines in the code as they are, probably some 10-15 lines. None of these lines include a z command so that's not too difficult. You can delete more layers than necessasy to create a (slightly) lower vase if you like.

It helps if you understand a bit of the gcode but that's not everybody's cup of tea.

Hope this helps!

This is fantastic. I have printed it on my Ultimaker, sliced with Cura, Joris Setting i.e. continous printing in z-direction, 0.4mm thin wall, 0.3mm layer thickness, 225°C

I'm glad you like it! The Ultimaker rules for these sorts of objects because of the build volume and speed.

Those are some really excellent photos you took. I really like the effect of the light and shadows on the facets. The photo looking into the vase was a great idea!

Thank you for this compliment! I really pay attention to the photo's and detail.

My 8-month old son inspired me to make the picture into the vase. He was looking into the vase for some time so I wondered what was so special about it 8-)

I'd love to see your print and a creative point of view picture of it ;-)

Hello, Good job ! What software used you for drawing this object ? Thank you.

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