My Mendel Production files

by Spacexula, published

My Mendel Production files by Spacexula Feb 23, 2010


I have now printed 2 complete sets of Mendel. I switched to these files after the 1st print. This breaks a Mendel down into 24 prints, averaging 2-3 hours a print. It also uses the smaller RP parts to hold down the raft for the larger prints. It works pretty good (but not as good as a heated plate). The good thing is that this design works just as good with no raft on a hot plate.

To use just export each "plate" as a separate stl, skeinforge and print. I have them separated on my computer but that's a lot of files to upload.

Also I included the non joined plates, so if you can find a way to turn it into a 23 or 22 plate print please improve on my work.

This is the easiest way to print Mendel I have found, and the beautiful part is if you are using something with a larger build plate than a Makerbot, just join four of these and you can print Mendel in 6 prints!

Much Props to Ryan P, and Cyrozap for fixing my broken files. I don't know how those got messed up, but they fixed it, and dealt with my VERY slow responce.

Honestly I was print 1 of these and not noticing it was build in the air, the other I fixed in my person sel, and never uploaded the fix. Their fixes where better than mine.

So now ALL these should work 100%. If they don't email me the fix and flame me in the comments!

Have fun!

Recent Comments

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This is an old file set for the Older version of Mendel. The sheet you see at the bottom was how we used to combine parts before the newest version of blender.

I would print a Prusa mendel instead at this point.

These look like they already have rafts?? Should I skien it w/ or w/o rafts?

fixed it using mendel-ABS solid-z-tensioner.stl from makerbot's version

linked from:


still would like to know how to pug a hole


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My Mendel Production files by Spacexula is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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ccotter247 on Dec 25, 2010 said:

These look like they already have rafts?? Should I skien it w/ or w/o rafts?

Spacexula on Dec 25, 2010 said:

This is an old file set for the Older version of Mendel. The sheet you see at the bottom was how we used to combine parts before the newest version of blender.

I would print a Prusa mendel instead at this point.

gauss on Nov 20, 2010 said:

Thanks for the files man!! this my first printing experience, and i'm using a beta version industrial printer which needs to be calibrated to print a mendel!! (i really shouldn't be, so dont tell anyone) hows that for beating the system!!!

worked great up to step 10 then i get an open mesh which wont print.
since im quite a newbie i dont got a clue how to plug the hole
how do i plug it? any fixed file anywhere?
thanks again

gauss on Nov 20, 2010 said:

fixed it using mendel-ABS solid-z-tensioner.stl from makerbot's version

linked from:


still would like to know how to pug a hole


SuperInfraMan on Nov 13, 2010 said:

Thanks for these files; I'm been printing out the whole set between other (kids!) projects. Is there a breakdown somewhere of what parts are on each plate?

Sometimes I get one part that isn't quite up to snuff and I'd like to DL and reprint it without redoing the whole plate, and I'm not familiar enough with them yet to identify them by sight. Thanks again!


Anonymous on Nov 13, 2010 said:

If you are in the US, I REALLY sugjest you look at my Prusa Mendel Production file, it is quickly becoming the prefered Mendel in the community, costs 1/3 as much to put together, and is easier to assemble.

As far as which parts are which, go to the reprap wiki, it's all there!

Anonymous on Sep 21, 2010 said:

I cant get any luck with the z leadscrew base to not warp. I have tried it raftless and rafted, I even got my HBP up to 130. How are people getting that piece nice and flat?

Spacexula on Sep 21, 2010 said:

There are a few tricks you can try, if all else has failed.

Reduce the infill (more infill, more raft)
Edit the part and put a little block all the way around the part.
Print slower
Use a blow dryer to heat the part every few minutes (keep the top soft)

If these don't help PM me and I will walk you though the process.

JohnA on Jul 8, 2010 said:

This files are great - just finished our second Mendel with these. Plates 17 and 18 were tricky just because of the size, but they all worked on our heated build platform. Countersunk bolts are required!

Anonymous on Jul 1, 2010 said:

This is awesome, but I have a problem with plate 2: every time I've tried to print it, the bot's tried to start the raft somewhere off the side of the platform, and in the process it runs straight into the platform's bolts. Any idea what could be causing this? I've got nothing.

Spacexula on Jul 2, 2010 said:

The plates are huge. You will run into your bolts if you don't alter your bot. Some suggestions.

-Go get some countersink screws from the hardware store, drill out a small hole for the head to go into, bam, no raised nuts to hit.
-Get a heated build plate from Makerbot or Makergear, or bodge your own.
-Shrink the raft a little on the build.

autarkyboy on May 30, 2010 said:

This is a derivative or RepRap, I think that the license should be gpl, non cc-by-sa, even if the licenses have the same philosophy they are not the same.

Anonymous on May 30, 2010 said:

That was just what was automatically selected. I assert NO ownership over this. All I really did was move the parts around, and figure out a good pattern.

If Adrian has an issue with what I have done I will HAPPILY delete this file.

JeremyRuhland on May 19, 2010 said:

I was real excited at first, but my makerbot has a heated platform and the bolts holding it on reduce my print area to 10x8 in some places. Luckily I should be able to rotate most of these plates to fit.

Anonymous on May 30, 2010 said:

Replace your build platform screws with flush screws. Those bolts will KILL your printer.

Anonymous on May 4, 2010 said:

I tried no.12 (the quickest build, apparently) last night to see what it would do. The problem is that with the acrylic build surface (makerbot) attached with 3mm bolts, the tool head hits these bolts while making the raft. Do these files fit on an acrylic build surface or do you need something slightly bigger?

Anonymous on May 5, 2010 said:

nevermind, I adjusted my raft settings and now it seems to be ok. Thanks for the files, great work.

JohnA on Apr 28, 2010 said:

Would anyone be open to discussing their skeinforge settings for printing these pieces? I've been trying to print a single one of the 4 pieces in #9 for days without success.

JohnWasser on Apr 14, 2010 said:

Having run all 24 files through skeinforge and ReplicatorG I've generated some statistics that someone might find useful. (My skeinforge settings are MakerBot defaults except layer height is 0.3125mm [1/4 turn of the screws] and my width to height ratio is 1.95)

Estimated build times:
Total: 53 hours 10 minutes.
Average per file: 2 hours 12 minutes
Slowest file: #17 (3 hours 22 minutes)
Fastest file: #12 (26 minutes)

Dimensions (including raft):
Greatest widths (X): #17
amp; #19, 96mm

Greatest depths (Y): #17
amp; #18 (105mm), #20 (103mm)

(All others are 93mm or smaller in depth)

Extruded volume:
Total: 739cc
Most per file: #17 (46cc)
Least per file: #12 (7cc)

Total file size of .s3g output files (to go on SD card):
104.16 MB

MarcusWolschon on Apr 28, 2010 said:

How many mm/s head-movement did you calculate with?

Spacexula on Apr 8, 2010 said:

Yes, I am using an alternate set right now, but I have not uploade them till I print all of them. I hate all the issues the last set had.

Lenbok on Apr 14, 2010 said:

Rough ETA?

Lenbok on Apr 8, 2010 said:

Any plans to make alternative plates that use the pulleys with built-in rims (thing 1936), nophead's mendel pulleys (thing 2079), and possibly some of Viks simplifications such as the XZ interface bracket (thing 1825)?

bowdidge on Mar 24, 2010 said:

Also: #17's holes seem to have too many segments. On my machine (with pretty standard skeinforge settings) too much plastic gets blobbed down and the print head eventually catches. That's the only one in the 1-18 set with the problem.

Thanks again for sharing these; it's been great fun to see parts being produced so quickly!

bowdidge on Mar 23, 2010 said:

Another hiccup: #17 and raft, when run through Skeinforge, is 105 mm wide. My Makerbot's forward/backward clearance was only 100 mm, so the printer was running out of space on both ends when printing the raft. I've got more clearance in the side-to-side axis (and a 110 mm square 1/2" plexiglas build surface), so swapping the X and Y stepper motors allowed me to get the raft to be laid down appropriately.

Spacexula on Mar 23, 2010 said:

Ok, updated the description to show that this is also cyrozap and Ryans P's work also. They fixed the files and I have swaped them out with theirs.

I did't even realize I ad 1 part printing into the air... it fixed itself over time.. Good catch!

bowdidge on Mar 20, 2010 said:

Apart from the hiccup in #3, they're printing fine. I'm up to plate #10. Printing these has been really satisfying because I end up with a box of interesting parts really quickly - it shows the promise of Makerbot for small-scale manufacturing.

cyrozap on Mar 18, 2010 said:

FYI, same cyrozap, different Avatar (it's my Gravatar).

I found another file problem! In step 6, The triangular part (can't remember what it's called) is slightly above the base, so it starts printing 1 layer higher than it should. I don't know how to fix it (easily), so could you please fix it for the rest of us?

And I just downloaded and looked at the step 3 from here; you still haven't replaced it with my fixed version...

cyrozap on Mar 5, 2010 said:

Hi! I found a mesh error (3, actually) in step 3. I fixed it in Meshlab and don't want to have to make a whole derivative just to post it. Is there any way I could email you the file? Or would you rather I publicly share the Dropbox folder it's in? The latter would take some figuring out, btw.

Spacexula on Mar 5, 2010 said:

Go ahead and send them to me at [email protected] Thanks for sharing!

Anonymous on Feb 25, 2010 said:

Benbo here, crowning the new KING OF THE MOMENT! mah hero!

Bophoto on Feb 24, 2010 said:

Something very lovely about a CupCake prnting two bigger printers.! Great set of files.

Spacexula on Feb 24, 2010 said:

255 for your extruder speed.
Print the calibration box. Raise the carve untill you no longer have stong walls, then drop it a little.
Adjust your 3 ratios untill the inner and outer wall stick well together.


MakerBlock on Mar 2, 2010 said:

Which calibration box are you referring to?

Zomboe on Feb 24, 2010 said:

Thanks for posting this! I am really looking forward to printing a set of Mendel parts.

One question, what settings do you recommend, especially layer thickness and fill ratio?

Spacexula on Feb 24, 2010 said:

Uploaded all Steps, Thanks Marcus, that's 40 minutes I could have used differently ;)

Spacexula on Feb 23, 2010 said:

Within the blender file, directions are in the description.

Anonymous on Feb 23, 2010 said:

I'd love to see images of your prints. Any on flickr?

You might be interested in my perl script that doubles parts from the .gcode (wouldn't work for your bed of parts, but the outcome is almost the same) I've had no problem printing over 100mm towers of a certain part in ABS. You need to have comments on skeinforge, but it's pretty simple other th
an that.

Anonymous on Feb 23, 2010 said:

why not just use the multiply-tab in Skeinforge like everybody else?

MarcusWolschon on Feb 23, 2010 said:

where are the other 23 stl-files?

MakerBlock on Feb 23, 2010 said:

Freaking sweet.

Spacexula on Feb 23, 2010 said:

Just realized there is 1 error in this version of the file set. In the top right corder there is an overlap.

On that one I just printed the parts seperate on my second print, will upload a new version when I wake up. HAVE FUN!

Anonymous on Jul 24, 2010 said:

I think there are z-axis-opto-spring_1off x 4 on plate 6. I think they are supposed to be bed-spring_4off.stl instead.