PL2Q Hugin

by swepet, published

PL2Q Hugin by swepet Mar 15, 2012

Featured Thing!


This is the next version of the 3D printable quadcopter.


The PL1Q Vampire was the first. Now continuing on the mythological creatures naming-scheme here is the PL2Q Hugin. I have put a lot of thought in to this one, but i fear it will fly away one day..

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hey guys - do I print this with support or not? when I turn support on for the body part on my robo3d, it fills the arm ends up as well. What has everyone else done about support?

thanks for uploading your arm. i'm sure others are having this issue too. :)

you not have to use a gopro but that mount would it one very well. also it depends on the bord but if you use a kk2.0 then it is pretty much plug in and go but you need to edit pi settings :)

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Print build fly !

If you already have printed a PL1Q Vampire most parts should be backwards compatible at least with some modifications..

Watch my video first, i show the quadcopter:


I print everything 100% filled and i use PLA, 0,3mm layer height
and i use SF35.

You need some soldering skills to use the new motor mounts. You solder the ESCs in to them..

The body should now bridge more correct, one direction is now 0,3mm over the other so it bridges one first and then on the next layer the other bridge (at least if you print using 0,3mm layer height in SF35).

If you intend to fly with a gopro camera, then choose the gopro legs, they are a bit taller and also have the battery further back to compensate for the weight of the gopro.

On the gopro mount you might need to grind the servo hole a bit to make the servo fit. Also the screw holes in the gopro mount need to be drilled a bit to make the screws fit.

Here is a list of the things i have in my PL2Q Hugin.
Most parts are Gaui 330x-s parts (my first quad)..

Main parts are
Esc's: GE-010 10A BRUSHLESS ESC x4
Props: GAUI 330X 8 inch Props (8A & 8B)
Board: MWC MultiWii SE Standard Edition (Crius MultiWii SE)
Camservo: HXT900

I also have

Battery, Rhino 3s 25c 2250mAh lipo
Imax B6 charger for the lipo (and a power supply to the charger)

Servo extension cables a bunch of them.

Linkage (music wire) between the servo and camera mount (0.8mm diameter).

2x Screw M3x25x0.5mm, and 2x M3 locking nuts for camera mount.

Black and Red silicone wire for power. I use 20AWG in arms and 16AWG to battery.

XT60 connector for battery.

JST connectors if you want to be able to remove arms.

Shrink-wrap !

Zip-ties !

Small screws for the motors.. (usually included when buying motors).

CA glue (superglue).

Lipo alarm, that warns when battery is getting low.
(completely depleting a lipo will damage it)

RC equipment i use
Radio: Turnigy 9x with FrSky module (er9x firmware with telemetry)

Receiver: FrSky D8R-II (firmware with ppmsum out)

Using other parts then the ones listed
If you think the parts listed are to cheap/expensive/etc then
of course you can use other parts. I would recommend that you look
at forums like rcgroups.com, multiwii.com and that you ask google.
Before ordering parts you should know what you wan't and if they will
work well together, getting it wrong can release the magic blue smoke,
and with that gone, the things will not work... Also if you do not have it already get an RC watt meter, every electrical flyer should have one !
Learn watts, amps, kV, etc.. The more you know, the more you will be able to do !

I find podcast to be a great source of information..because you can
learn a lot of stuff while doing other things, commuting, working,
walking etc..

My 3 favorite RC podcasts are:


I listen to many more, but these three are my favorites that i follow every episode of.. great way to learn about RC stuff..


I have a Ultimaker 3D printer so that is the build size i have in mind when designing, but now i think the canopy should fit smaller printers like the TOM. I will try slicing down the other parts when i get time, but if some sketchup skilled person would like to make a sliced up derivative of the parts that would be awesome !


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voyager1 on Apr 14, 2014 said:

hey guys - do I print this with support or not? when I turn support on for the body part on my robo3d, it fills the arm ends up as well. What has everyone else done about support?

soupaboy on Apr 6, 2014 said:

well here is an intresting issue, when i exent the esc power wires for this, my motors stop working and the pulses are at the wrong time. any fixes? the motors dont work becuase the pulses are not properly timed anymore :(

soupaboy on Apr 5, 2014 said:

i cant get the quadcopter to work, does anyone have skype where i can work through the quadcopter with them? this is my first quadcopter

Naia101 on Apr 5, 2014 said:

Just wondering what the dimensions from motor to motor is?

voyager1 on Apr 4, 2014 said:

Is this ok to fly without a GoPro? Or do I need to counterbalance it? Thinking I might fly it without the camera for some flights (while I learn how to fly it!) and then add the camera down the track. Any thoughts or advice on that?

soupaboy on Apr 6, 2014 said:

that would be fine. it would acctualy be out of balance with the gopro so you need to set that in your trim settings. e.g it it leans forward you must use the backward trim to make it lean back more. thus equal. :) happy flying

Layke on Feb 14, 2014 said:

Do any motors that are cheaper work with this. If you could find the cheapest ones that still work i would be thankful!!! PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!

soupaboy on Apr 6, 2014 said:

some great cheap ones with amazing lift are these: D2830-11. i was also on a budget :)

AlirezaSaberi on Jan 10, 2014 said:

Please dont put the project 1 stl files. I made me very confused.
Plus : Oh man it's a very expensive project. This print was the cheapest part of it

Shantmeg on Sep 6, 2013 said:

Hi, I noticed that your gopro used is an older one. Is there any way I can mount a newer hero3? Or if you have the cad files, I could try to modify one on solidworks.

deepthought on Aug 25, 2013 said:

Hi, thanks for this work, I'm actually printing it.

I just wanted to report an issue with the "request_PL2Q_Hugin_arm_no_base_raft.stl" file, there's no support at all at the bottom of that part (it is empty), it probably happened when you deleted the raft support.

Thanks again

sjpiper145 on Aug 17, 2013 said:

My printer will not print the full length of the arm standing upright so I edited the file so it would print properly on it's side here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... The bottom half of the tube is a bit thinner, but it is still quite strong. Thanks swepet for a great design.

soupaboy on Apr 6, 2014 said:

thanks for uploading your arm. i'm sure others are having this issue too. :)

97bradley on Aug 10, 2013 said:

is there any coding that has to be done to the boards or is it plug in and go. also what about wiring.

soupaboy on Apr 6, 2014 said:

you not have to use a gopro but that mount would it one very well. also it depends on the bord but if you use a kk2.0 then it is pretty much plug in and go but you need to edit pi settings :)

Anilkumar on Aug 6, 2013 said:

hey wat is the fly time/?

oski on Jul 22, 2013 said:

Anyone have success printing the body with ABS on a makerbot replicator? I'm having a lot of warpage printing with these settings:

- 110 deg print bed
- 0.2mm layer thickness
- 100% infill
- 1 shell layer

oli4r on May 3, 2013 said:

I just got all my quadcopter parts today ^^
But my carbon fiber rods have a diameter of 12 mm. Could you make the connections with the arms a bit smaller?

And if possible fill up the connection? (i don't need to put cables true it.)

I tried doing it myself, but i'm not that good in sketchup....

Chuckdou9 on Apr 12, 2013 said:

Thanks for sharing your build with us - just one question ..

If you could upgrade any of the components today, what would you add or replace ?

Best Regards

swepet on Apr 13, 2013 said:

I do not fly 3D printed quads as much nowadays as the price for off the shelf quadframes have dropped a lot. But if i would change something it would be the gopro mount, i would change it to my new type i use in my "gopro mount and legs for dji f450".. Much better and can handle all version of gopros..

Time268 on Apr 1, 2013 said:

What is your flight time with your battery/rotor setup? Is it possible to sub in a bigger lipo for longer flights?

swepet on Apr 13, 2013 said:

Flight time is about 15 min at best.. Larger batteries does not always mean longer flight time. Larger battery = more weight = more power consumption. You have to find the right battery size for the aircraft, for this i think it is a 3s around 2200mAh.. Also the larger battery worse it will fly.

pottiepie on Feb 17, 2013 said:

How do you secure the motor mounts to the arms?

swepet on Feb 17, 2013 said:

CA glue (superglue) is what i use.. Work good on PLA plastic, on ABS perhaps making own acetone based glue, i have not worked with ABS myself..

straitjacket on Feb 10, 2013 said:

You mention Sketchups in your youtube. Are you willing to share the Sketchups files to make for easier evolution?

swepet on Feb 17, 2013 said:

It has always been there.. PL2Q_Hugin.skp :-)

Frans48 on Jan 11, 2013 said:

On top of it, the connecting wires from the Esc are too short. Did you actually replace all these wires (power and 3 pin wires)?

swepet on Feb 17, 2013 said:

It is just wires, easy to solder.. :-) SMD components like the chip on the esc, thats a bit harder to do with a regular soldering iron, he he

Frans48 on Jan 11, 2013 said:

in the video you showed the direct soldering of the motor to the Esc. How do you control the motor rotation direction?

If it is wrong, you have to switch 2 wires? Difficult after soldering! easy with bullet connectors.

only then it doesn't fit and you have to lead the wires outside the arms.

swepet on Feb 1, 2013 said:

Yes soldering is required and it is just to switch any two wires to change direction, everyone should own a good soldering iron :-)

SteurbautCharlie on Sep 1, 2012 said:


Can you tell me where you bought the glassed that you use to see the camera when you fly? Or don't you see live images when you fly? I'm interested in doing it 2!

[email protected]

swepet on Feb 1, 2013 said:

I now use "Fatshark Dominator" that i got from hobbyking, in the video i use old selfmade skimask goggles..

andrewupandabout on Aug 30, 2012 said:

Fun project! I'm printing the canopy and the top is caving in, any advice?

Also, should I buy a Gaui 330X-S and strip it to save costs? It seems like a fully assembled kit would be cheaper to source parts. (I think though you have other, newer parts mentioned above.)

Just subscribed to your Youtube channel. Looks like a lot of fun sailing too!


Stanos on Nov 12, 2012 said:

If your top is caving in your printer's bridging is not calibrated properly.  May want to try some extra cooling during the bridging to help cool the plastic as fast as possible so it does not droop.

Keukpa on Aug 21, 2012 said:

Does anyone use one of these with a GoPro, I've got my quad working amazingly now, flies like a dream. Only problem is that the video from my GoPro is all shaky. Any tips on reducing vibrations?


swepet on Feb 1, 2013 said:

Balance the props ! And make sure motors are balanced. The key to reduce vibrations is to not generate them :-)

SirGronk on Jul 17, 2012 said:

Mine flew successfully, but broke apart on a hard landing. I'm thinking ABS plastic might not be the best. I'll try PLA, see if it holds up better.

Video of the ill-fated flight:

TechDante on Jul 8, 2012 said:

hi wanted some advice about printing the main body piece on the ToM as it is it will not fit as one piece but if i were to seperate the arm connectors and print them seperatly (at teh triangle end, so i could print the top and bottom piece and epoxy and bolt the arms into position).

i think this would work but how would i make sure the the arms would be aligned properly when it came time to put the thing together, should i add some raised blocks on teh base and top that would ensure propper locating

many thanks


Keukpa on Jun 24, 2012 said:

I can't for the life of me get the canopy printed! What 3D printer are people using? I've got a reprap prusa. And the whole thing just crumbles!

Would anyone be willing to print me 2 or 3 canopies, I would of course pay for materials and time and postage :)

I'm in the UK.



vonzepplin on Mar 20, 2013 said:

I am sure you got it done by now but for anyone else having this problem I found that it was easier to just flip the canopy 180 degrees and print it from top to bottom. You have to cut the 4 little tabs on the bottom anyways so it doesn't matter if they foul up a bit.

Keukpa on Jun 1, 2012 said:

I've just taken my first flight with this quadcopter, LOADS of fun :)

Just a few points:

1) my quad doesn't seem to self balance, I'm using the MultiWii SE v1.9.

2) My quad seems to be very 'bouncy' doesn't keep a stable altitude at all.

Any ideas?

Many thanks!


gabrielfp on May 20, 2012 said:

Hello Swepet. I'm having difficults to find a good PID setting for my quad PL1Q. Could you please post a printscreen of your PID settings?

Tks for the nice job (=

Keukpa on Jun 24, 2012 said:

I agree, if possible so screenshots of settings :)



SirGronk on May 11, 2012 said:

I got the body done. I had to modify the 3D models for the arms and the GoPro legs to be able to fit on my Makerbot Thing-O-Matic's smaller build platform. It seems pretty solid so far, we'll see how well it works out in actual flight.

Would anybody be interested in those altered arm or leg models?

dethcookie on May 31, 2012 said:

I definately would like at least the arms. Having a similar problem with my Prusa Mendel

chugadie on May 4, 2012 said:

How do you physically fit all the connections into the motor mount piece? My ESC's BEC has a 3 port pin header housing bit that is too wide to fit into the small arm of the mount that goes to the longer arm. The spot for the ESC seems a little small for the one I got. Any close-up shots of the wiring would help.

swepet on May 4, 2012 said:

There are no connectors, they have been removed, everything is soldered directly.. On mine i have a JST connector and servo connector, at the other end of the arm between the body and the arm, so that a arm can be removed..


EvieAlani on Apr 29, 2012 said:

I would like to use your quad for a school project. I do not know anyone with a 3D printer do you know anyone that could print me one of these?

thnx and very cool build!

Best * Evie

EvieAlani on Apr 29, 2012 said:

O yea I dont mind paying for parts and time! :)

Zarquon on Apr 23, 2012 said:

Mine had its first flight this weekend. It is going to take me a while to learn to fly it but it looks like it came together well. My first landing was upside down in the bookshelf in my living room. I
’ve had a couple other ‘light’ crashes and it looks like it’s holding up to it. The only problem I’m having, other than my piloting, is that the crius lite board keeps turning off one of my motors causing the ESC to do it’s no signal beep as it comes down hard.
Nice design and fun proje

Zarquon on Apr 24, 2012 said:

Oops. It was too windy today.

polymaker on Apr 23, 2012 said:

Glad to hear it came together well. I'll be putting mine together soon. I'm going to modify the gopro mount to fit my Canon Powershot, and I'm gonna see if I can add an extra servo to click the shutter button. After hearing of your issues, I will make sure to do plenty of flying to be sure it is robust before putting my not-so-rugged camera in there. However, since I'm building a body that counterbalances the battery with the camera, I'll have to put something in the camera holder of equivalent weight until I'm ready to risk having the camera itself in there. Should be fun.

Good luck and happy flying! :)

tetalab on Apr 17, 2012 said:

Hi swepet, could you give us an url of where to shop the current BOM online? and in Europe?

How much have you bought your setup for?

swepet on Apr 27, 2012 said:

The places i shop from are hobbyking, goodluckbuy and ebay.. All my money goes to the people of china, not europe i am afraid.. For a list of parts and links look at the PL1Q thingiverse page..You can get parts from europe also i think, but for at least twice the price i would guess..

polymaker on Apr 16, 2012 said:

I've exhausted all my google fu and I still can't figure out how FPV and remote photography works. Is that something that is handled directly by the GoPro or is the feed/control routed through the receiver? Is it possible to easily use any camera for the task?

swepet on Apr 17, 2012 said:

Hello, what you need to get live video is a, "video transmitter" that you put on the quadcopter, and then a video receiver that you have on the ground. You can use any camera that outputs composite video. Small cheap ccd security cameras works fine. I use the gorpo, it have a video out feature, it outputs composite video while it records hd-video, the video i see when flying is standard-def.. Here is a good starting guide to fpv: http://rcexplorer.se/Education...

enjoinick on Apr 15, 2012 said:

How did you manage to fasten the motors to your motor mounts?

I bought these motors http://www.hobbyking.com/hobby...

swepet on Apr 17, 2012 said:

I just screwed mine down.. Do those motors not fit the motor mount, does the screw holes not align up ? (if its the screw holes that do not align up then perhaps mirroring the mount before printing)

polymaker on Apr 10, 2012 said:

I've done some price checking and come up with about $650 for all the vitamins this copter requires. Does that sound about right? It seemed a little high to me considering some complete copters (http://www.amazon.com/Parrot-A...
amp;sr=8-2) can be purchased for less. What makes this better than them? More power? Open source?

chugadie on May 4, 2012 said:

I got everything from hobby king for like $120. But my motors don't fit right and I have to redisgn the motor mounts. That's a different story. There's a very cheap 6ch white labeled transmitter and receiver for $60 or so. 4 Motors might be around $10 each, 4 motor drivers / speed controllers around $6 each. Then a $20 lipo battery or so, wires and connectors... shipping ... Oh, if you don't have an arduino and wii motion plus, you will need those (if you're following the multiwii project, I forget what this project recommends for flight control electronics)

polymaker on Apr 10, 2012 said:

I included 8 props instead of 4 in that price, so I guess the cost would come to $610

CyCo on Apr 6, 2012 said:

Nice work.

Zydac on Apr 1, 2012 said:

Do you know the approximate lifting capacity of this machine? Could it carry a camera a little heavier than a GoPro?

swepet on Apr 4, 2012 said:

I did try mine, i could lift 776g payload incl battery. But you don't want to max it out to the limit, it will reduce flight time and it will fly like a pig. But a little bit larger camera is just fine, but no heavy dsla:rs och so.. And also with other esc:s and motors you can lift more..

zgbot on Apr 2, 2012 said:

you could upgrade the motors and ESC's and do a good amount of lifting.

dan on Mar 22, 2012 said:

aproxamatly how much in materials does it take to make it? my school has a 3d printer i can use but i have to buy the materials. im in the U.S but i can convert it if need be. if you can email me that would be great [email protected]

Anonymous on Mar 30, 2012 said:

I haven't measured exactly, but i say weight is about 300 grams, so that is also how much material would be needed.

foxdewayne on Mar 18, 2012 said:

Can you post a picture of your electronics for the vampire. the board that you suggested did not come with instructions? I fly planes but have never flown or wired any thing like these. Im still waiting for my ESC's to come in the mail, but have the copter printed with motors mounted and ready to go. :)

Anonymous on Mar 19, 2012 said:

Nice! I will see if i can post some videos later this week, but for now i would suggest you look at multiwii.com there you can find connection diagrams. Also you need to do upload the code to it and configure it. I will see if i can do a video about that also. But there is good information on multiwii.com.. I suggest you run the latest v2 prerelease2 code, seams to work very well for me :-)

MattS on Mar 17, 2012 said:

Do you have any photos of your wiring? HOw are you running power to your ESCs separately? Do you have some kind of voltage regulator in place between the battery and the multiwii? Excuse me if these are dumb questions to people who really know RC but I just need a little pointer.

swepet on Mar 17, 2012 said:

Every ESC is connected to the battery all red power wires to plus and black to minus. Every ESC have a built in voltage regulator, in rc a voltage regulator is called BEC. In the servo wire (black/red/yellow) from the ESC, it outputs 5v (red/black) usually to power servos / receiver in a plane. In the yellow wire the signal (pwm) goes from the receiver to the ESC in a plane. However when using multiple ESC:s you might need to cut the red wire in the servo wire to all except one ESC. So that there only is one BEC that supplies the power (it is plenty to feed the multiwii and receiver). Since connecting multiple BECs (voltage regulators) together in parallel can be bad depending on type, back flow can occur causing them the get hot or even fail..

zgbot on Mar 16, 2012 said:

at 4:53 in your video you show 2 motors and say they need to be mirrored. i cant tell the difference between them

i am looking into parts that are a little cheaper than the Gaui 330x-s replacement parts seems that you could build 2 helis with more generic parts (i understand that you already had all the electronics motors etc.) so it made perfect sense to do what you did.

do you have any suggestions for che
aper parts for this one? I am still looking around but this will be my first quad so still learning all i can about all this stuff. I haven't printed the motor mounts yet until i can figure out the motors i will get.


swepet on Mar 17, 2012 said:

The parts i have listed for the PL1Q Vamprire is cheaper and i think will work just fine. It is hard to see, but on the motors, 2 of the screw-holes are closer to the center then the other two. The scorpion motors are the same but reversed, the two holes that are closer to the center on the cheap motor is further away on the scorpion.. Thats why you need to mirror the motormount if using scorpion motors, mo make the holes line up..

syncra on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Hi Swep, great intriguing work you are doing!

I am new to these flying things but very interested to try!! few stupid questions:

1- is it difficult to fly or autostabilises etc..?

2- do you have a blog with full instructions a-z? or is there a place where beginners can follow step-by-step?

Many thanks!

swepet on Mar 17, 2012 said:

I think a quadcopter would be a great way to start flying rc, autolevel helps a lot. I would suggest you look at different forums and get information and listen to podcast. I have links to a few in the instructions.. I might do a more video instructions video in the future if i get time to..

Roboteernat on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Also, as a comment, the previous versions top case seemd to print veryt thinly and was quite fragile. Is this the case with this top case? thank you :)

swepet on Mar 16, 2012 said:

It should be better now, the walls is thicker.. It adds a few grams weight but it is worth it i think..

reprapperMC on Mar 16, 2012 said:

I'm completely clueless when it comes to finding out what motors I need. Is there any reason the suggested motors for this copter are more expensive that the ones suggested for the Vampire?

swepet on Mar 16, 2012 said:

They are a brand name. Same reason a ferrari is more expensive then a fiat.. But they should also have higher efficiency then a cheap motor, = less electricity is wasted as heat. However if that is true and how much difference there actually is i don't know, i hope to do a comparison later since i have booth the cheap and the expensive motors...

Anonymous on Mar 16, 2012 said:

They are a brand name. Same reason a ferrari is more expensive then a fiat.. But they should also have higher efficiency then a cheap motor, less electricity is wasted as heat. However if that is true and how much difference there actually is i don't know, i hope to do a comparison later since i have booth the cheap and the expensive motors...

reprapperMC on Mar 16, 2012 said:

The motor I currently have are these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobby...

The major problem I did not realize is that mounting holes are on the wrong side.

zgbot on Mar 16, 2012 said:

this is so awesome. thanks for uploading

would it be possible to upload the arms without the big flat circle on the base?


swepet on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Done ! request_PL2Q_Hugin_arm_no_base_raft.stl

TheOthrPianoMan on Mar 16, 2012 said:

These are fantastic. Amazing work. I'm expecting my Replicator any day now and would love to make of of these as a "long term" project but have little experience in this field.

I know it would take some time to learn everything I'd need to know, but have you ever thought of writing up step by step what needs to be done to make one of your designs from start to finish? Obviously this would be based on the parts you used.

swepet on Mar 16, 2012 said:

No not writing, but perhaps making one or more videos. If i get around to it, i have a lot of other projects also going on he he.. I would recommend you start reading on forums, and listening to rc podcasts. You will learn a lot !

MattS on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Keep up the awesome work. Most of my parts arrived today to start building one of these. I'm going to start printing tonight!

swepet on Mar 16, 2012 said:

Nice ! Please post images when you are done !

Roboteernat on Mar 15, 2012 said:

Are any of these parts the same as PL1Q to save those printing parts 1 the hassle of reprinting? Like me heehee


swepet on Mar 16, 2012 said:

request_PL2Q_Hugin_motormount_no_mouse.stl is now up if it was that ;-)

swepet on Mar 16, 2012 said:

the arms are the same, the pl1q body and landing gears can be cut with a knife to be compatible, almost the same.. The gopro mount should fit the PL1Q, but try putting the battry as far back as possible..

Roboteernat on Mar 15, 2012 said:

also, can you upload the files without the mouse ears on the corners please? :D

Thanks for an awsome 'thing'!