PL2Q Hugin

by swepet, published

PL2Q Hugin by swepet Mar 15, 2012

Featured Thing!


This is the next version of the 3D printable quadcopter.


The PL1Q Vampire was the first. Now continuing on the mythological creatures naming-scheme here is the PL2Q Hugin. I have put a lot of thought in to this one, but i fear it will fly away one day..

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I found it.
Where to you get all the hardware from?
hey guys - do I print this with support or not? when I turn support on for the body part on my robo3d, it fills the arm ends up as well. What has everyone else done about support?

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Print build fly !

If you already have printed a PL1Q Vampire most parts should be backwards compatible at least with some modifications..

Watch my video first, i show the quadcopter:


I print everything 100% filled and i use PLA, 0,3mm layer height
and i use SF35.

You need some soldering skills to use the new motor mounts. You solder the ESCs in to them..

The body should now bridge more correct, one direction is now 0,3mm over the other so it bridges one first and then on the next layer the other bridge (at least if you print using 0,3mm layer height in SF35).

If you intend to fly with a gopro camera, then choose the gopro legs, they are a bit taller and also have the battery further back to compensate for the weight of the gopro.

On the gopro mount you might need to grind the servo hole a bit to make the servo fit. Also the screw holes in the gopro mount need to be drilled a bit to make the screws fit.

Here is a list of the things i have in my PL2Q Hugin.
Most parts are Gaui 330x-s parts (my first quad)..

Main parts are
Esc's: GE-010 10A BRUSHLESS ESC x4
Props: GAUI 330X 8 inch Props (8A & 8B)
Board: MWC MultiWii SE Standard Edition (Crius MultiWii SE)
Camservo: HXT900

I also have

Battery, Rhino 3s 25c 2250mAh lipo
Imax B6 charger for the lipo (and a power supply to the charger)

Servo extension cables a bunch of them.

Linkage (music wire) between the servo and camera mount (0.8mm diameter).

2x Screw M3x25x0.5mm, and 2x M3 locking nuts for camera mount.

Black and Red silicone wire for power. I use 20AWG in arms and 16AWG to battery.

XT60 connector for battery.

JST connectors if you want to be able to remove arms.

Shrink-wrap !

Zip-ties !

Small screws for the motors.. (usually included when buying motors).

CA glue (superglue).

Lipo alarm, that warns when battery is getting low.
(completely depleting a lipo will damage it)

RC equipment i use
Radio: Turnigy 9x with FrSky module (er9x firmware with telemetry)

Receiver: FrSky D8R-II (firmware with ppmsum out)

Using other parts then the ones listed
If you think the parts listed are to cheap/expensive/etc then
of course you can use other parts. I would recommend that you look
at forums like rcgroups.com, multiwii.com and that you ask google.
Before ordering parts you should know what you wan't and if they will
work well together, getting it wrong can release the magic blue smoke,
and with that gone, the things will not work... Also if you do not have it already get an RC watt meter, every electrical flyer should have one !
Learn watts, amps, kV, etc.. The more you know, the more you will be able to do !

I find podcast to be a great source of information..because you can
learn a lot of stuff while doing other things, commuting, working,
walking etc..

My 3 favorite RC podcasts are:


I listen to many more, but these three are my favorites that i follow every episode of.. great way to learn about RC stuff..


I have a Ultimaker 3D printer so that is the build size i have in mind when designing, but now i think the canopy should fit smaller printers like the TOM. I will try slicing down the other parts when i get time, but if some sketchup skilled person would like to make a sliced up derivative of the parts that would be awesome !

Where to you get all the hardware from?
I found it.
hey guys - do I print this with support or not? when I turn support on for the body part on my robo3d, it fills the arm ends up as well. What has everyone else done about support?
well here is an intresting issue, when i exent the esc power wires for this, my motors stop working and the pulses are at the wrong time. any fixes? the motors dont work becuase the pulses are not properly timed anymore :(
i cant get the quadcopter to work, does anyone have skype where i can work through the quadcopter with them? this is my first quadcopter
Just wondering what the dimensions from motor to motor is?
Is this ok to fly without a GoPro? Or do I need to counterbalance it? Thinking I might fly it without the camera for some flights (while I learn how to fly it!) and then add the camera down the track. Any thoughts or advice on that?
that would be fine. it would acctualy be out of balance with the gopro so you need to set that in your trim settings. e.g it it leans forward you must use the backward trim to make it lean back more. thus equal. :) happy flying
Do any motors that are cheaper work with this. If you could find the cheapest ones that still work i would be thankful!!! PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!
some great cheap ones with amazing lift are these: D2830-11. i was also on a budget :)
Please dont put the project 1 stl files. I made me very confused.
Plus : Oh man it's a very expensive project. This print was the cheapest part of it
Hi, I noticed that your gopro used is an older one. Is there any way I can mount a newer hero3? Or if you have the cad files, I could try to modify one on solidworks.
Hi, thanks for this work, I'm actually printing it.

I just wanted to report an issue with the "request_PL2Q_Hugin_arm_no_base_raft.stl" file, there's no support at all at the bottom of that part (it is empty), it probably happened when you deleted the raft support.

Thanks again
My printer will not print the full length of the arm standing upright so I edited the file so it would print properly on it's side here: thingiverse.com/thing:135028 The bottom half of the tube is a bit thinner, but it is still quite strong. Thanks swepet for a great design.
thanks for uploading your arm. i'm sure others are having this issue too. :)
is there any coding that has to be done to the boards or is it plug in and go. also what about wiring.
you not have to use a gopro but that mount would it one very well. also it depends on the bord but if you use a kk2.0 then it is pretty much plug in and go but you need to edit pi settings :)
hey wat is the fly time/?
Anyone have success printing the body with ABS on a makerbot replicator? I'm having a lot of warpage printing with these settings:

- 110 deg print bed
- 0.2mm layer thickness
- 100% infill
- 1 shell layer
I just got all my quadcopter parts today ^^
But my carbon fiber rods have a diameter of 12 mm. Could you make the connections with the arms a bit smaller?

And if possible fill up the connection? (i don't need to put cables true it.)

I tried doing it myself, but i'm not that good in sketchup....
Thanks for sharing your build with us - just one question ..

If you could upgrade any of the components today, what would you add or replace ?

Best Regards
I do not fly 3D printed quads as much nowadays as the price for off the shelf quadframes have dropped a lot. But if i would change something it would be the gopro mount, i would change it to my new type i use in my "gopro mount and legs for dji f450".. Much better and can handle all version of gopros..
What is your flight time with your battery/rotor setup? Is it possible to sub in a bigger lipo for longer flights?
Flight time is about 15 min at best.. Larger batteries does not always mean longer flight time. Larger battery = more weight = more power consumption. You have to find the right battery size for the aircraft, for this i think it is a 3s around 2200mAh.. Also the larger battery worse it will fly.
How do you secure the motor mounts to the arms?
CA glue (superglue) is what i use.. Work good on PLA plastic, on ABS perhaps making own acetone based glue, i have not worked with ABS myself..
Thanks. Might resort to printing a frame. Our GAUI crashed and a motor mount was pushed into the aluminium arm. :(
You mention Sketchups in your youtube. Are you willing to share the Sketchups files to make for easier evolution?
It has always been there.. PL2Q_Hugin.skp :-)
On top of it, the connecting wires from the Esc are too short. Did you actually replace all these wires (power and 3 pin wires)?
It is just wires, easy to solder.. :-) SMD components like the chip on the esc, thats a bit harder to do with a regular soldering iron, he he
in the video you showed the direct soldering of the motor to the Esc. How do you control the motor rotation direction?

If it is wrong, you have to switch 2 wires? Difficult after soldering! easy with bullet connectors.

only then it doesn't fit and you have to lead the wires outside the arms.
Yes soldering is required and it is just to switch any two wires to change direction, everyone should own a good soldering iron :-)
Fun project! I'm printing the canopy and the top is caving in, any advice?

Also, should I buy a Gaui 330X-S and strip it to save costs? It seems like a fully assembled kit would be cheaper to source parts. (I think though you have other, newer parts mentioned above.)

Just subscribed to your Youtube channel. Looks like a lot of fun sailing too!

If your top is caving in your printer's bridging is not calibrated properly.  May want to try some extra cooling during the bridging to help cool the plastic as fast as possible so it does not droop.
Appreciated. Thanks for the feedback.
Does anyone use one of these with a GoPro, I've got my quad working amazingly now, flies like a dream. Only problem is that the video from my GoPro is all shaky. Any tips on reducing vibrations?

Balance the props ! And make sure motors are balanced. The key to reduce vibrations is to not generate them :-)
Mine flew successfully, but broke apart on a hard landing. I'm thinking ABS plastic might not be the best. I'll try PLA, see if it holds up better.

Video of the ill-fated flight:
hi wanted some advice about printing the main body piece on the ToM as it is it will not fit as one piece but if i were to seperate the arm connectors and print them seperatly (at teh triangle end, so i could print the top and bottom piece and epoxy and bolt the arms into position).

i think this would work but how would i make sure the the arms would be aligned properly when it came time to put the thing together, should i add some raised blocks on teh base and top that would ensure propper locating

many thanks

I can't for the life of me get the canopy printed! What 3D printer are people using? I've got a reprap prusa. And the whole thing just crumbles!

Would anyone be willing to print me 2 or 3 canopies, I would of course pay for materials and time and postage :)

I'm in the UK.


I am sure you got it done by now but for anyone else having this problem I found that it was easier to just flip the canopy 180 degrees and print it from top to bottom. You have to cut the 4 little tabs on the bottom anyways so it doesn't matter if they foul up a bit.
I've just taken my first flight with this quadcopter, LOADS of fun :)

Just a few points:

1) my quad doesn't seem to self balance, I'm using the MultiWii SE v1.9.

2) My quad seems to be very 'bouncy' doesn't keep a stable altitude at all.

Any ideas?

Many thanks!

Hello Swepet. I'm having difficults to find a good PID setting for my quad PL1Q. Could you please post a printscreen of your PID settings?

Tks for the nice job (=
I agree, if possible so screenshots of settings :)


I got the body done. I had to modify the 3D models for the arms and the GoPro legs to be able to fit on my Makerbot Thing-O-Matic's smaller build platform. It seems pretty solid so far, we'll see how well it works out in actual flight.

Would anybody be interested in those altered arm or leg models?
I definately would like at least the arms. Having a similar problem with my Prusa Mendel
How do you physically fit all the connections into the motor mount piece? My ESC's BEC has a 3 port pin header housing bit that is too wide to fit into the small arm of the mount that goes to the longer arm. The spot for the ESC seems a little small for the one I got. Any close-up shots of the wiring would help.
There are no connectors, they have been removed, everything is soldered directly.. On mine i have a JST connector and servo connector, at the other end of the arm between the body and the arm, so that a arm can be removed..

I would like to use your quad for a school project. I do not know anyone with a 3D printer do you know anyone that could print me one of these?

thnx and very cool build!

Best * Evie
O yea I dont mind paying for parts and time! :)
What country are you in? I have a printer and could help!
Keukpa another thingiverse member was kind enough to print and ship the quad to me. I will be working on many UAV and flight projects while going to school. If you are interested in creating a friendship I will be working on a CNC machine here shortly. Maybe we can trade services :) I lover to barder and have made many good friends on this site. We all seem to help eachother out and I just whip my pay pal out if we need cash :)
Mine had its first flight this weekend. It is going to take me a while to learn to fly it but it looks like it came together well. My first landing was upside down in the bookshelf in my living room. I
’ve had a couple other ‘light’ crashes and it looks like it’s holding up to it. The only problem I’m having, other than my piloting, is that the crius lite board keeps turning off one of my motors causing the ESC to do it’s no signal beep as it comes down hard.
Nice design and fun proje
Oops. It was too windy today.
It's a good thing you can easily print new arms for it :) What's with the blue tape on there?
The tape labels the front arc.
if a motor stops it can be...

1. One esc might overheat in its volt regulator, because the power from all the escs is connected together. Fix it by cutting the red wire between the escs and the board on all except one esc..

2. the escs detect low voltage and turns off (or slows down) the motor to prevent the lipo from being d
raind to mutch and damaged.. Very good for planes etc but not for quads ;-) change the settings of the esc:s, batttype to nimh (yes even that u use lipo) and cutoff voltage to low. This way the esc will not turn off the motor..

Also balance the props, vibrations will affect the sensors..

And don't
let gravity win !
’m fairly certain my problems are with one of the channels on the crius board. I’ve got all the power connectors snipped appropriately and I programmed all the ESCs wired together in parallel. If I just leave it powered on with the motors disarmed on my floor one of the ESCs will eventually st
art doing the no signal beep. If I randomize which motor is which channel on the board and wait for the error code again it’s always from the one connected to the same pin on the board. If I crash from that again I’ll redefine which output is which and just not use that pin anymore.

Did you g
et a chance to compare the strength of the horizontally printed arms to the vertical ones? Both of my arms snapped at exactly the same point in the most recent crash. It’s right at the point where the notch ends. I’m seeing if I can get them a little bit stronger for my repairs. I quickly tr
ied one of the horizontal one and it looks like it’s stronger as a discrete piece but maybe not as a system. When I put force on it by holding the motor mount I started to separate the layers at the edge. I’m going to use those for now but if I crash hard again I’ll probably try to migrate t
o some aluminum or carbon rods (as sort of ‘training wheels’ I guess).
I have been printing vertical arms and everytime on takeoff they snap at the connection point.. I would agree that horizontal would be stronger.. I am mounting wires outside the arms so gonna fill in the centers and see how much that helps with the stress.
Yeah I was thinking they would be. There is an arm that has been modified to be printed horizontal here thingiverse.com/thing:17803 . The problem I
’m seeing with them is that the first bridge layer is not attached as well and with the motor mount inside it’s pushing fairly directly against that layer and splitting the arm. I did a quick epoxy and tape wrap on the ends on a pair of new arms which I have drying now. My hope is that will so
lve my splitting problem.

I haven’t had any breakages outside of crashing though. The pictured crash above was a straight fall from head height with the quad tipped right angle to the horizon.
I like being able to print 4 arms at a time so I made this today and will print tonight thingiverse.com/thing:21978

If that is not strong enough i'll switch to horizontal arms, I'll updatee my thing with results when I am done testing
updated thing 21978.. Printed horizontally and can definitely notice a difference in resistance of torque/moment forces.. Havent got a chance to fly yet tho
Do you use PLA or ABS ?
Using Makerbot ABS
Hmm, i have not tried ABS but it should be stronger then PLA is what i have heard. Perhaps trying out different settings while printing, like changing speed and temp etc. But i figure you already done that.. Have you tried PLA ? It would be nice to have a comparison between ABS and PLA, if you do do try PLA someday perhaps, then please give a report.!
I've been trying to print in ABS but have had some serious issues with warping. I've done the body and the arms. Tempted to buy a spool of PLA just for this print. I guess I could add a full raft to see if that helps.
Glad to hear it came together well. I'll be putting mine together soon. I'm going to modify the gopro mount to fit my Canon Powershot, and I'm gonna see if I can add an extra servo to click the shutter button. After hearing of your issues, I will make sure to do plenty of flying to be sure it is robust before putting my not-so-rugged camera in there. However, since I'm building a body that counterbalances the battery with the camera, I'll have to put something in the camera holder of equivalent weight until I'm ready to risk having the camera itself in there. Should be fun.

Good luck and happy flying! :)
Hi swepet, could you give us an url of where to shop the current BOM online? and in Europe?

How much have you bought your setup for?
The places i shop from are hobbyking, goodluckbuy and ebay.. All my money goes to the people of china, not europe i am afraid.. For a list of parts and links look at the PL1Q thingiverse page..You can get parts from europe also i think, but for at least twice the price i would guess..
I've exhausted all my google fu and I still can't figure out how FPV and remote photography works. Is that something that is handled directly by the GoPro or is the feed/control routed through the receiver? Is it possible to easily use any camera for the task?
Hello, what you need to get live video is a, "video transmitter" that you put on the quadcopter, and then a video receiver that you have on the ground. You can use any camera that outputs composite video. Small cheap ccd security cameras works fine. I use the gorpo, it have a video out feature, it outputs composite video while it records hd-video, the video i see when flying is standard-def.. Here is a good starting guide to fpv: rcexplorer.se/Educational/FPV/FPV.html
Has changed the location to starters guide to: rcexplorer.se/educational/2009/09/fpv-starting-guide/
Thanks! That page is very informative!
How did you manage to fasten the motors to your motor mounts?

I bought these motors hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5354
I just screwed mine down.. Do those motors not fit the motor mount, does the screw holes not align up ? (if its the screw holes that do not align up then perhaps mirroring the mount before printing)
The screw holes were off..Only way I could figure to screw mine down were to remove the motor from its mount and screw down, but had to drill holes in the side of your mounts to be able to retighten my set screws for the motor.. Was there a reason other then looks to go with an enclosed motor mount? Either then that fustration so far love the desgin espically the body and slots :-D Everything is printing awesome on the Replicator, haven't been able to print the Canopy succefully yet tho 3fails
I did design the motor mounts that way to protect the motors when i crash. On my old quad, i got bent motor-shafts almost every time i crashed.. With this design i have crashed and motors where not hurt :-) Have you tried printing the canopy upside down ? Perhaps that is works better..
Arms keep braking on takeoff at connection points :(
The connection points on the at the motors or the body or in the middle (if using the 2 part arms) ? What plastic are you using, PLA or ABS ?
ABS..I am using the two part arm.. So the connection points at the motor and at the body are breaking when using vertically printed arms.. the only arm that survived was the horizontally printed arm ;) even added wooden dowls inside the vertically printed arms didn't help
This is strange, next time i order filament, i will get some ABS to try out and compare to the PLA i used so far..
I've done some price checking and come up with about $650 for all the vitamins this copter requires. Does that sound about right? It seemed a little high to me considering some complete copters (http://www.amazon.com/Parrot-AR-Drone-Quadricopter-Controlled-Android/dp/B003ZVSHB0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8
amp;sr=8-2) can be purchased for less. What makes this better than them? More power? Open source?
I got everything from hobby king for like $120. But my motors don't fit right and I have to redisgn the motor mounts. That's a different story. There's a very cheap 6ch white labeled transmitter and receiver for $60 or so. 4 Motors might be around $10 each, 4 motor drivers / speed controllers around $6 each. Then a $20 lipo battery or so, wires and connectors... shipping ... Oh, if you don't have an arduino and wii motion plus, you will need those (if you're following the multiwii project, I forget what this project recommends for flight control electronics)
Nice, my favorite radio is the Turnigy 9X, it is 9 channel, and you can upload custom firmware to it awesome,, and its $54 from HK, but it is a bit hard to get, never in stock you will have to put in a backorder to get it.. It is multiwii i use in mine !! But building one out of arduino and wii parts is in the past (i did build a couple of them) !!! It is not worth it any more, now you can get a board with everything integrated for around $55 (incl shipping)!!! Gyro, acceleratiometer, compass and barometer !! Everything on a small nice board, you will never beat that price today building your own,, (http://www.goodluckbuy.com/mwc-multiwii-se-standard-edition-4-axis-flight-control-board-quadx-w-ftdi-basic-breakout-.html)
I included 8 props instead of 4 in that price, so I guess the cost would come to $610
That sounds very high i think ! You can use cheap motors and stuff and get a very lower price.. (look at the parts listings for the pl1q vampire) But i guess it is the "starting with rc" stuff that adds up, like charger, radio, etc.. The ar-drone is cool, but it is more of a toy. But if you like technology and such i think you wont regret getting into rc, i haven't !
OK. Wow, I crunched the numbers again, using some cheaper equipment and that made a big difference! I came up with $350 this time:

docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AldXqcsbOkExdFlHWWcyWkZ6UFBJckoxMj Z2UzczUkE

Feel free to edit anything you see there that is wrong ;)

Also, I found this instructables about assembling a similar looking RC Quadcopter, do you think it's good?

Can you comment on the exact GoPro model and goggles you used for FPV? Can you comment about any cheaper options for getting into FPV? GoPro and goggles look to be pretty expensive.
I think you're right that I won't regret getting into RC, I'm already obsessed and I don't even have o
ne yet! :-P
I just checked through my vitamin kit for this and my total was $273. Looks like the difference comes from a few things: my props were $11, my motors came with the prop adapters, no lipo alarm, receiver+tx combo, and a few slightly cheaper parts.

I’m excited that all my parts are in. Hopefully I can get it flying soon.
Ahh, I double-checked the props and found that you actually get 4 for $9.99, I thought that was just for 1. That brings my price down to $320. I'll have to keep looking to see if I can bring the price down any more (I have to get it under $300 to convince my wife ;). Where did you get the motor/prop adapter combo?

I'm excited to see how you get on.
My motors are from goodluckbuy. I think they are the same ones you have picked out when I look at my order. They had a picture of the adapters on the site but didn
’t mention if they actually included them or not. They were included in the set that arrived though.

I use the same supply that powers my reprap to power my battery charger. If you cut out the prop adapters and the charger PSU you will be under the magic $300. My lipo charger (from goodluckbuy
) was $10 cheaper than the ones you picked if you need to trim a bit more. I was checking for lipo alarms just now and see them for
lt;$5 on goodluckbuy as well.
Yeh i thought it could be cheaper :-) A lipo alarm is quite important, you do NOT want to fly till the battery is empty, getting below 3v per cell will damage the battery. Also have respect for the lipo, never leave a charging lipo, and if lipo is damaged in crash etc. Here is a little video of me with a crashed lipo youtube.com/watch?v=NkFhueO5zmE Also, get extra propellers, that is what usually breaks first :-)
Do you know the approximate lifting capacity of this machine? Could it carry a camera a little heavier than a GoPro?
swepet - in reply to Zydac
I did try mine, i could lift 776g payload incl battery. But you don't want to max it out to the limit, it will reduce flight time and it will fly like a pig. But a little bit larger camera is just fine, but no heavy dsla:rs och so.. And also with other esc:s and motors you can lift more..
You should enter the hobby king beer lift contest (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/beerlift.asp). I think your helicopter would have no trouble lifting a can of beer.
Stupid parentheses getting in the way...

Yeh, i do not say you need to lift all beer at once ;-) I think i can make a beer grip claw, and lift the beers one by one, he he
zgbot - in reply to Zydac
you could upgrade the motors and ESC's and do a good amount of lifting.
I haven't measured exactly, but i say weight is about 300 grams, so that is also how much material would be needed.
Can you post a picture of your electronics for the vampire. the board that you suggested did not come with instructions? I fly planes but have never flown or wired any thing like these. Im still waiting for my ESC's to come in the mail, but have the copter printed with motors mounted and ready to go. :)
Nice! I will see if i can post some videos later this week, but for now i would suggest you look at multiwii.com there you can find connection diagrams. Also you need to do upload the code to it and configure it. I will see if i can do a video about that also. But there is good information on multiwii.com.. I suggest you run the latest v2 prerelease2 code, seams to work very well for me :-)
Do you have any photos of your wiring? HOw are you running power to your ESCs separately? Do you have some kind of voltage regulator in place between the battery and the multiwii? Excuse me if these are dumb questions to people who really know RC but I just need a little pointer.
Every ESC is connected to the battery all red power wires to plus and black to minus. Every ESC have a built in voltage regulator, in rc a voltage regulator is called BEC. In the servo wire (black/red/yellow) from the ESC, it outputs 5v (red/black) usually to power servos / receiver in a plane. In the yellow wire the signal (pwm) goes from the receiver to the ESC in a plane. However when using multiple ESC:s you might need to cut the red wire in the servo wire to all except one ESC. So that there only is one BEC that supplies the power (it is plenty to feed the multiwii and receiver). Since connecting multiple BECs (voltage regulators) together in parallel can be bad depending on type, back flow can occur causing them the get hot or even fail..
Hey, I am wondering if you have a picture of how everything hooks up to your multiwii.


I have uploaded an image, the 4 connectors together are to the speedcontrollers, the one next to them are to the receiver (i only have one wire between the board and the receiver that i run all channels in, ppm sum from frsky receiver), normally you connect one wire for every channel.. The last co
nnector goes to the camera pan servo...
at 4:53 in your video you show 2 motors and say they need to be mirrored. i cant tell the difference between them

i am looking into parts that are a little cheaper than the Gaui 330x-s replacement parts seems that you could build 2 helis with more generic parts (i understand that you already had all the electronics motors etc.) so it made perfect sense to do what you did.

do you have any suggestions for che
aper parts for this one? I am still looking around but this will be my first quad so still learning all i can about all this stuff. I haven't printed the motor mounts yet until i can figure out the motors i will get.

The parts i have listed for the PL1Q Vamprire is cheaper and i think will work just fine. It is hard to see, but on the motors, 2 of the screw-holes are closer to the center then the other two. The scorpion motors are the same but reversed, the two holes that are closer to the center on the cheap motor is further away on the scorpion.. Thats why you need to mirror the motormount if using scorpion motors, mo make the holes line up..
thanks, have you seen this controller board? it looks pretty great for 50 bucks, its got auto balance and lots of other great features

I don't know that board, and i would never get it if it is not open source, i like multiwii, new features all the time and since it is open source you can tweak the code as you like ! goodluckbuy.com/mwc-multiwii-lite-4-axis-x-mode-flight-control-board-quadx-w-ftdi-basic-breakout-.html
lt;-- also have autobalance
Hi Swep, great intriguing work you are doing!

I am new to these flying things but very interested to try!! few stupid questions:

1- is it difficult to fly or autostabilises etc..?

2- do you have a blog with full instructions a-z? or is there a place where beginners can follow step-by-step?

Many thanks!
I think a quadcopter would be a great way to start flying rc, autolevel helps a lot. I would suggest you look at different forums and get information and listen to podcast. I have links to a few in the instructions.. I might do a more video instructions video in the future if i get time to..
That would be really great!! (the video instructions step by step).

I think that lots of people are super interested in starting one but the initial barrier of podcasts and forums is huge - it's like swimming in the ocean looking for an island!

Whether many people (like me) would start getting into it if step one was just follow instructions - then you start following forums etc.. when you know the minimum! :)

Thanks in any case - I want to give it a go! 8-)
Also, as a comment, the previous versions top case seemd to print veryt thinly and was quite fragile. Is this the case with this top case? thank you :)
It should be better now, the walls is thicker.. It adds a few grams weight but it is worth it i think..
I'm completely clueless when it comes to finding out what motors I need. Is there any reason the suggested motors for this copter are more expensive that the ones suggested for the Vampire?
They are a brand name. Same reason a ferrari is more expensive then a fiat.. But they should also have higher efficiency then a cheap motor, = less electricity is wasted as heat. However if that is true and how much difference there actually is i don't know, i hope to do a comparison later since i have booth the cheap and the expensive motors...
Im currently using Turnigy 2213N motors which are ok, only 800Kv tho, and it may be worth getting more powerfull ones - say 1000Kv, im also using 10inch props 1045, but more powerfull motor can use smaller blades, 9.5inch say...
I was having this discussion with a quadcopter-building friend today. He said the best motors for this are low Kv motors (he uses 750) - high Kv motors sacrifice torque for speed, and torque is what you want.
What motors you can use is dependent on the size of the props and the voltage you use. Just changing the motors to 750kV motors in this quad would make it weak and slow, you would need to have a very high throttle just to take off.. If using lower kV motor you will need larger props or higher volt.. A low kV motor with large props is more efficient then a high kV motor with smaller prop on the aerodynamic side, less speed = less drag. Torque is not an issue in most cases..
They are a brand name. Same reason a ferrari is more expensive then a fiat.. But they should also have higher efficiency then a cheap motor, less electricity is wasted as heat. However if that is true and how much difference there actually is i don't know, i hope to do a comparison later since i have booth the cheap and the expensive motors...
The motor I currently have are these: hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5691

The major problem I did not realize is that mounting holes are on the wrong side.
How do they look on the backside ? Can you post a image? Is the position of the screw holes the same otherwise ?
Here are some images. The first is the normal shaft size but as you can see that side has the standardized diamond screw pattern. The second image is the other side. It has four tiny holes which allow mounting an additional shaft. The additional shaft you can see mounted in the third picture. I would just use that mountable shaft but it is 5mm diameter and will not fit my props.

What props do you have ? The gaui 330x-s props hole is 5mm! Perhaps you can drill your holes to make them fit, not the optimal solution since it might weaken the prop a bit but might be ok.. Are you able to mount the props on the permanent shaft ? If so, perhaps i can make a modified upside down mount ?
this is so awesome. thanks for uploading

would it be possible to upload the arms without the big flat circle on the base?

Done ! request_PL2Q_Hugin_arm_no_base_raft.stl
thanks for the fast response! i am printing one now. (4 arms at a time)
These are fantastic. Amazing work. I'm expecting my Replicator any day now and would love to make of of these as a "long term" project but have little experience in this field.

I know it would take some time to learn everything I'd need to know, but have you ever thought of writing up step by step what needs to be done to make one of your designs from start to finish? Obviously this would be based on the parts you used.
No not writing, but perhaps making one or more videos. If i get around to it, i have a lot of other projects also going on he he.. I would recommend you start reading on forums, and listening to rc podcasts. You will learn a lot !
Keep up the awesome work. Most of my parts arrived today to start building one of these. I'm going to start printing tonight!
Nice ! Please post images when you are done !
Are any of these parts the same as PL1Q to save those printing parts 1 the hassle of reprinting? Like me heehee

request_PL2Q_Hugin_motormount_no_mouse.stl is now up if it was that ;-)
Thank you :) my custom machine has build area that currently hits the ears for all parts, so thought it may be issue for others.
the arms are the same, the pl1q body and landing gears can be cut with a knife to be compatible, almost the same.. The gopro mount should fit the PL1Q, but try putting the battry as far back as possible..
also, can you upload the files without the mouse ears on the corners please? :D

Thanks for an awsome 'thing'!
All parts without mouse ears or just the motormount ? The legs will not use smaller build area without them i think ?