Lockable Present Ornament

by jijimath, published

Lockable Present Ornament by jijimath Nov 28, 2013

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Instead of putting your presents beneath the tree, why not put them on the tree?

This is an ornament that also functions as a reusable present box. It's lockable with a nice ornate key. In addition to the key, the ribbons also hold the lid on and add an extra puzzle nature to the box. It can be a fun challenge for young kids to try to figure out how to open it.

I'm using this with my kids and they are very intrigued about what might be in the box. They're already asking for the key! I'm planning to put the keys in their stockings.

Check out the video for how it works and how to assemble:



Watch the video for assembly instructions.

If you are printing with ABS and are experiencing warping/lifting for the box or the lid, try the "Anti-warp" versions. Use a raft, and the extra disks should keep the corners down.

For the key, it's best to use a raft and supports as the model only touches the build-plate in one place.

If the ribbons are printing with too tight a fit (does this happen more often with PLA?) you can upsize the inner ribbon (Ribbon_Part_1) to 101% an the outer ribbon (Ribbon_Part_2) to 101.5%. Thanks dssguy1 for this tip!

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great model only problem is the top part of the key is not held together good enough so I got this model and it came out very good http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607377

Heart Key for Lockable Gift box

Lovely box, any chance of a redesigned key, difficult to print - tried different position

This is Perfect and I'll use it to deliver a diamond this coming Friday... Thank You

Love this Thank you so much

BTW JFYI I did the 101% scalation as adviced and I ended up with the ribbons too loose, so the trick might NOT BE for everyone using PLA...

I printed the key vertically with brim and 100% infill and came out great. Leave you a few images as a guidance:

Sweet! Your model has been chosen as one of the best 3D Printed Ornaments this year! Search "Top Free 3d Printed Ornaments Printing Ninja" in google to see (sorry thingiverse bans url addresses)

Great work man. Thanks so much for sharing...

yes so good man/woman pro

fits together well .. only issue were the key useable but dont look as nice as the box ..

I had some issues with the key not fitting well, so I printed it at 90% and it worked perfectly. Box looks great, awesome design!

The key came out ugly after removing the support. I used 'cut of object bottom' to print the key in two parts and glued them together.

With 'cut of object bottom' the object sinks into the platform.
My Ultimaker then prints half a key with a flat bottom.
Rotate the key and use the same trick to print the other halve.
Then glue. Works perfect!

Printed this whole thing, but my tolerances are different than yours. Will you add the Sketchup file please? I would like to make a few adjustments appropriate from my printrbot jr. Thanks!

I uploaded the sketchup file (SourceFile.skp) for you. I remember having to fix the lid after exporting to STL due to some non-manifold issues that often plague sketchup creations (rookie mistakes!). I used NetFab to fix. Let me know if you run into any issues...


Increasing the ribbon size for PLA worked for me, too. However, the inside hook was too small. The hook was not enough to grab onto the lid post. It needs to be 2-3mm longer. Still, a really nice box!

I printed it out in a black - red color combination and it is great! It looks great, feels strong and doesn't break. But i had some problems printing the key. Because only a small surface lays on the heatbed, and everything else floats in the air (laying on the side). I had to cut the bottom section of the key to create a bigger surface laying on the heated bed.

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VEY COOL! ima print it!

I'm curious about how you modeled the vertical walls of the box. I am trying to print solid walls, but it is not working as I expected. The inner and outer shell layers print fine, but I get chatter printing the interior of the wall, despite multiple slic3r settings. Is there a fill pattern built into your model, perhaps? I'm printing one more of these and that's it. It's beating up my linear rod bearings pretty bad and can't print at night with my daughter sleeping in the next room.

There's no built-in fill patterns or anything like that. If you let me know what type of printer you have, I might be able to reproduce what you've got going on and help resolve...

Thanks! I'm running a Robo3D earliest version, Repetier-Host tailored for Robo version 0.90D, and Slic3r version0.9.10b.

If you want ribbons that fit without any sanding in just upsize the inner ribbon (one with the keyhole) to 101% and the outer ribbon (one with the bow) to 101.5%. I made everything with PLA and it fits together with no fuss and best of all, no sanding. I made 5 of these in all different colors already!

Thanks for the tip. I added this info to the instructions,

Just curious as I am always trying to learn .. what program did you design these in?

I used SketchUp

Why don't the "anti-warp" disks actually intersect with the model? I don't see how that would be useful.

well i can see???

It's only useful when using a raft. A raft will help prevent against ABS corner curling, but for larger flat-bottomed models, I've found the corners are often not protected as much as needed. Since the raft is larger than the footprint of the model, the raft of the box merges with the raft of the disks thus extending the grip to the build platform at the corners. Seems to work well in my tests....

It's useful when using a raft. The raft forms a base that is larger than the footprint of the model, and when this happens the raft of the box and the raft of the disks merge forming an extended raft at the corners. I've found that the default rafts don't protect corners as well as they should when printing large flat-bottomed objects, so this trick extends them and seems to work pretty well.

I've found that connecting the disks with the actual model, like you can do in Makerware, makes a raft unnecessary. I understand what you are saying about extending the raft, however, I prefer no raft if I can help it at all.

Cool. I've got to try that.

Is there a way I could get an open scad file or something so I could change the size of the box. Its a great design put it's a little small to put actual gifts

An scad file would be nice, but I modeled this by hand. Could redo parametrically. What dimensions do you want?

I'm having the same problem printing the key. We re-leveled the build plate twice and that did not help. Any special instructions? Please help.

As I responded to uxian: When printing in MakeWare, click the "Raft" and "Supports" checkboxes and try again. What is happening is that the bottom layer only has one point that touches the build-plate so it's got grabbing well. These options should help. Let me know!

I'm having a lot of trouble printing the key on a Replicator 2. The extruder head seems to be picking back up the filament it's already laid down.

When printing in MakeWare, click the "Raft" and "Supports" checkboxes and try again. What is happening is that the bottom layer only has one point that touches the build-plate so it's got grabbing well. These options should help. Let me know!

Of course, I should have thought of that. Thanks, it did the trick.

Awesome. I added a note to the instructions about using a raft and support when printing the key.

I'm having some trouble getting the outside bow to fit over the box and the other bow - is it sized correctly? Should I resize? It's a few millimeters to narrow to even fit over the box itself, without the inner ribbon.

The stl file shows that the ribbon is large enough, and my prints give a good fit. Maybe the following can help us figure this out:

1) Does the lid fit well?
2) Do the internal locking mechanisms attach nicely?
3) Does the inner ribbon fit well?
4) You say the outer ribbon doesn't fit, so:
a) Is it catching on the lid or the base of the box?
b) Can you send me a photo showing where it's off and by how much?

Sorry for so many questions, but if you can answer the above, we should be able to resolve the issue. Thanks!

I am printing this at the moment. Since I don't have a heated bed on my UM, I chose the anti-warp version of the lid and bottom. For the lid-file, two of the circles are not in level with the rest of the drawing and thus a brim is not printed around these for extra support.. the circles are hanging just 1 layer above the rest, when printing at 0.1mm

The rest looks good :)

You were right! One of the disks was 0.1mm off. Thanks for catching that.

I uploaded a fix. Let me know if it works!

I really love this thing :D awesome thanks for sharing.

It would be easy make it larger. What dimensions do you want?

Cool idea. It'd be interesting if you had a larger version that can be actually put under the tree and hold something large.