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Original Apple logo in 3D

by acen, published

Original Apple logo in 3D by acen Mar 23, 2012

Featured Thing!

Description

The original Apple logo, like you have never seen before!

In the instructions, an ingenious way of getting the color layers right is explained, credits go to "zeq" for this.

go to : embedables.wordpress.com
for more information on the purpose of this thing

Recent Comments

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Where is the STL / model file for this thing? All I see in the downloads section is a gcode file.
No, that's just a normal black macbook with a sticker on its logo
Is that a laptop with a original Apple logo? :)

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Instructions

Print in the right color combination for the complete experience!


If you don't have all the colors at hand, buy them from a supplier that has them. For example , faberdashery.co.uk has a Rainbow fun pack with 10 colors.

When using the provided g-code, if you want to get the width of each color in your print to be exactly equal and a 6th of the total height, and you have an Ultimaker with a 0.4mm nozzle, use the provided handy filament cutting sheet, or just the dimensions on it. This will make a nicely sized(63mm high)decorative object.

However, if you want to do this with anything else than the above mentioned setup, do the following,

1) Measure the amount of filament that your machine takes in per E's in your g-code. Do some experiment like, making the machine push 1000E's, 500E's or 5000E's, and look at the mm's of filament that went in the exturder. Now you know how many mm goes in say, 1000E's

2) Generate g-code for the thing(note that you need a fill for this print, especially to support the stem.), open it and look at the Z number at the last lines and note this down. This is how high your object is going to be in mm's.

3) Do the following calculation
(total height of object) / 47 x 6 = the width of each color for your object.

4) Now that you have the height for each color, you can determine at what height in your object they are going to start. Note down the starting heights of each color.

5) Next, you can look again at the Z numbers in your g-code. First, find the point where Z is the closest to the width of your first color. For example, if the width is 8.04mm, look for something like 8.02 or 8.06. Just find the closest one.

6) When you find the right Z number, look at the E number behind it. Note this down.

7) Repeat step 6 until the green color. Note down each E number behind the corresponding Z number.

8) Calculate the difference in E numbers for each color layer.

9) Finally, divide these differences in E numbers by the mm/E that you calculated in step 1. This will give you the length of filament for each color.

10) Cut the filaments in the correct size and preferably join them before printing by your favorite method of choice. If you haven't done this before, look around a bit for how people do it.
Note: Actually, you don't want to cut the green, because if you do, you will have the risk of running out of filament for your print because of the small miss-calculations. Also, if using a Bowden tube, you will need more filament to push the green to the hot-end anyway.

11)Print away!

Where is the STL / model file for this thing? All I see in the downloads section is a gcode file.
Is that a laptop with a original Apple logo? :)
No, that's just a normal black macbook with a sticker on its logo
I want to BUY this! Anyone willing to print one and sell it to me?

Pretty please?
Funny.. I've designed and uploaded a crank for the "absurd iPhone accessory contest" last tuesday, and it involves a lightly altered version of this former apple logo as an handle.

Would you mind if I link to this page for the 3D printing instructions ?
acen - in reply to Toncky
No please do, I wouldn't mind. I am actually curious to see the first person making one by following the instructions.
Instead of the tough "E1000" calculations, you could upgrade to "volumetric" printing. In which case the Exxx numbers represent the amount of filament extruded.

For your ultimaker, take a look at github.com/daid/Cura/wiki (Formally known as SkeinPyPy) this software package helps you with upgrading to Marlin, and making better prints with your Ultimaker. Future versions will also export "Layer" comments, which will making the filament length lookup
even easier.
acen - in reply to Daid
I have been following the threads on the Ultimaker google group, and have been meaning to upgrade our Ultimaker, because the improvements indeed sound remarkable, however, even though the build-me-marlin looks very handy, I could not really figure out how to install Skeinpypy(or now Cura) as I have no experience with Python. Is there a place where it's briefly explained how I can do that?
Daid - in reply to acen
Installing SkeinPyPy is quite simple. And just the fact that you think you need to install python means you are overthinking it a bit.

I assume you run windows (seems 80-90% of the users do, and your photo shows winXP).
1) Download: github.com/daid/Cura/downloads the file "win32-SkeinPyPy-NewUI-Beta4.zip"
2) Extract it somewhere.
3) Run the SkeinPyPy.bat contained within. No need to install anything else, it's fully self
contained. (If you want to remove it, just delete the extracted folder, it doesn't do anything outside it's install location)

Now you'll be presented with the "first run wizard", which will help install the firmware and calibrate the machine. (Note, on the final step, the "Heatup button" is broken,
the only bug known in Beta4)

Slicing should be quite self explaining (load STL file, press slice)

After slicing you need to fire up Printrun.bat, which you will need to connect to your printer, load the GCode file, and print. (A printer interface inside Cura is in the works, but PrintRun is very
good at sending GCode)
acen - in reply to Daid
Thanks for the detailed explanation! I was actually trying to install it on my Mac before, but I think I will now try to install it on the win xp machine first.
If you have a thing-o-matic with a Gen 4 LCD interface, then just use Jetty's firmware: it has a pause-at-z-height feature. Tell it to pause at 1/6th the z-height. Then when it gets there, use the convenient controls to change the filament. Then resume printing and tell it to pause at 2/6 the z-height. Repeat until done.
the method I use is: (in pronterface)

pause
jog x or y enough to get the nozzle off the object
pull filament out of extruder /without/ using extrude/reverse buttons (you have to tug on the idler)
push new filament in, until plastic comes out of the end
tighten idler
resume
the method you mention is a perfectly acceptable way only,

a) if you are just randomly changing colors

b) if you feel like watching your print for the whole duration of the print (to feed in new material and taking measurements of layers)

I think you need to be really handy with changing filament to get the result in the picture.

The description I provided is an attempt to introduce a handy method to accurately estimate filament volumes for a specified layer of color.
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