Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears, Parametric Filament

by dougc314, published

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears, Parametric Filament by dougc314 Mar 30, 2012
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This is a modification to jonaskuehling's version of the famous Gregs Wade Extruder. I am participating in a 18 unit Prusa group build (using TOMs primarily to print the parts!) We wanted this version, but need both 3 mm and 1.75 versions. I noted as others that the filament path wasn't completly parameterized and that the guidler moves in Z. I believe I have solved the issue, you can read my comments, any code changed by me has a //DEC comment. I have printed a 1.75 mm version, and it seems correct. I also mover the guidler so that the three parts (body, washer and guidler) fits on a 100mm square build platform


No new instructions, just fixed the SCAD code. The filament hole may be a bit tight, I reamed mine out with a 2mm (#46) drill.

Version 2 - Some more improvements. I designed a clasp that rides along the 4mm bolts, and allows a 3mm screw to drop into a hole in the guidler, no more slipping off. I also added a throat to the entry of the filament path, below the idler-bolt junction. Hopefully we can feed filament into the guidler with it closed and it won't jam. I also rounded the edge that the m3 screw has to pass over to make it easier to use. The stls have been run through NetFabb's cleanup service. The springs that I use are seat springs for Delta/Peerless faucets.

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I cani use it in 3 mm bowden configuration?

Jan 1, 2016 - Modified Jan 1, 2016

Combining a few different designs for a custom one of my own. A few quick questions, if I may.

The clasp: Is there an issue with the slotted bolts slipping out of the idler? I'm trying to figure out why the clasp is needed. Also what secures the M3 bolt you secure it with? It seems like it would fall out.

Oh, and what is the purpose of the knob in the scad file?

Yes, the bolts tended to slip out on the original design. The M3 screw is held in place by an M3 nut in the plate, there should be a hexagon shaped recess for it. The knob was intended to make it easier to pull the M3 screw, but it is a clumsy design and I don't use it. It isn't even in the photo that I posted.

Ohh, I see. The M3 screw attaches to the plate so it doesn't fall out, but the length of the screw works like a lever into the idler to stop the spring tension from working the idler screws up and out of the slots.

Thanks for the help.

The M3 screw works more like a pull knob than a lever. The idea is to pull on the M3 screw, compressing the springs, then with the idler arm all the way up, pressing the bearing against the hobbed bolt the spring-plate assembly can be moved down over the bearing arm and released. The screw end of the of the M3 bolt sticks out of the plate and catches a depression in the bearing arm. They lock together well. I have been using this design constantly since posting, and many of my friends have. Of course most if the design isn't mine, I just modified it in a few ways that I felt were improvements. I almost never have to dis-engage the plate. I can change filament with the idler arm in place, thanks to the funnel shape throat in the filament path. I am printing out something right now on the machine that I built that used this extruder. I think I'm on the second body, I had an extruder "accident" that melted the first one.

I see. Thanks. I think I'm going to add something like this to my final design.

Which one is j-head??

They are both J-Head. 1.75 or 3 mm. If you need another style you'll have to set up the Open SCAD file accordingly.

Which one is j-head??

Which one is j-head??

Which one is j-head??

Which one is j-head??

I made a experimental Remix of this!


Extruder for Printrbot Ubis hotend - Anti-clog -

Im trying to print nylon with my wade extruder but find it to be too flexible. If even a little too much pressure builds up it just bends right after the hobbed bolt, before getting guided into the through hole. Do you think your funneled V2 version would be better or worse for printing more flexible filament? Have you ever had any success printing nylon with a wade?

thanks for any help!

Probably worse, as it would let the filament bend more. I think the extruders that support the higher compression forces have a carefully designed filament path that extends very close to the pinch point of the filament.


I have been having an issue with a wade's reloaded extruder I have purchased from an online store with the screws that hold the J-Mount being too close together. My J-mount hotend needs 12mm between the screws and that is what I have read is the correct spec for a J-Mount. Can anyone tell me the distance between the screws for this design?

I just checked in a couple of ways. I checked the code and they are 13.7 mm (C-C) apart for the J-head. I also checked a printed one, and verified that. The way the mount works is that the inner surface of the screws, (they're about 10.7 mm apart grab the 12 mm j-head circular slot tightly. I've used this with both maker gear and EBAY-China jheads and it works well. I suppose an aluminum j-head may be a bit hard. Just to be clear, the screw threads bite into the 12 mm circular slot, holding the jhead very snugly.


Thanks for checking the design and for explaining why it is the way it is. I was having a heck of a time but it makes total sense now. I really like the modifications you have made to this extruder and would love to use it but I would prefer to have the J-Mount screw holes be a but further apart for my E3D all metal hotend. I have never used a SCAD program so I am not confident that I could modify your SCAD file to get it done. Any chance you would consider helping to modify the design to create an stl for a J-mount that uses an all metal hotend? I am certain that it would really be useful to anyone in the future that decides to use an all metal hotend. Not sure exactly what the spacing would need to be to hold it tight enough but the groove on my E3D hotend is exactly 12mm in diameter. Maybe 11.75mm but not really sure.

What program are you using to generate your STL files that you have posted?

Thanks again!

Very nice.

I'm wanting to change the base to fit the quick-fit X carriage by RichRap, but before I start I'm sanity-checking by exporting STL as-is to Slic3r (0.9.7) and it's giving me that (not manifold) thing...

Is there something in the OpenSCAD code I can alter to stop that?

 Sorry about the "not manifold" issue. There seems to be a difference about the slicing engines and how fussy and or accurate they are about this issue. Skeinforge processes the stls and prints them, SLIC3r doesn't. I have no idea how to fix it in the source code. When slic3r complains about an STL I use NetFABB cloud service (or the stand alone netfabb program) to repair them. At the time of posting I wasn't using slic3r so had no idea that it was unhappy.

As for the layer setting I believe what the SCAD code trys to do is change the vertical dimensions so that they are quantized in layers. I would assume that the slicer code does much the same thing, so I am unconvinced that doing it in the source code is very important. One example where it may be important is in the membranes that are put across vertical holes that have step to smaller diameters. The step to smaller causes a bad overhang that doesn't print well. By designing in a 1-layer membrane across the step the overhang becomes a bridge which prints well. By knowing the print layer the membrane can be made as thin as possible which makes for easier trimming.

I tried to compile and save the scad file attached.

There are two problems with it...

1 .. all he "include" files are missing .. well I found them on jonas post .. so that's ok.

2 If you try to export the design as STL it OpenScad says not a 2D manifold .. modify your desing ..

Clearly the Scad file uploaded is not the file that was used to post STL ..

Can you fix this issue?

There are two other "issues" with this design .. oh well 3 .. most of them I think are inhe
rited from Joans deisng.

  1. Also the suport of the idler Hinge is made too small .. there is no need to make it that small .. it should attach at a small point .. it should have a wider base at go up conically to attach.
    Small Geometries are a problem in a large print and this one just rolls over
    (ABS on glass with 3M tape) and doesn't stick well.

  2. The top of the main extruder has bascially ZERO thickness for the screw holes . the holes print but the top is almost open .. that thickness should be increased so that screw/bolt doesn't fly out the hole ..

  3. The idler holder has "rounded"
    top .. there is no reason for it .. it's just making the top thin and weak .. one should just make a clean square part.

I wanted to do these changes but can't even get the original files to produce the STL .. and I am too new at this to figure out where is the problem..

Please advise if you will


I suppose I might have changed something in the dependent scad's and forgotten. I just uploaded a zip of all the SCAD files required to build the extruder. I copied them to a new folder and compiled the design and generated a stl. Seems to work. There are libraries that come with OpenSCAD that may be required as well.

I am using OpenSCAD 2011.12.30 and Python27. Obviously it generates STL files for me. Which SCAD file? You should be using V2, but both should work. I have had another person have problems with the SCAD file, thinking it was corrupted. I have downloaded it from thingiverse several times, the downloaded file is identical. Email me and I will send you the file direct. In fact please email me your downloaded copy so I can compare them.

I agree with you about point 2, but haven't bothered to fix it. With this design I am able to change filament without opening the guidler. I've never had a problem with the support coming loose, but I agree that it could be better.

I am using the same - it might be be because the you haven't posted all the scad files . you might have modified something in them that change the dimensions -- that kind of thing will mess up the manifold.

I have modified jonas original file (he posted all the files).
I did it on both mac and xp .. and get identical results.

where does the plastic washer go? Do we just need the two gears from the original version? Thanks for the model!

Use the gears from 18379 , the thing this is derived from. The washer goes in the bearing well on the gear side, under the bearing, it stops the center boss of the bearing from binding on the extruder body.