Ultimaker Nozzle Mk2 for 3mm filament
Description
This setup is currently printing at 20 micron layers ;p
This is a re-designed nozzle assembly for Ultimaker. No additional materials were required to fill gaps like PTFE tape or extruding ABS to fill gaps- as is the way for Ultimaker setup. Simply turn-up the white PTFE part tap some threads and screw together/ assemble.
youtu.be/BVuYapH128k
youtu.be/CPiMJzieI6A
youtu.be/R-JmgTR4oQ4
Instructions
#Note: if you unscrew and remove the Bowden tube for matinence. When reassembling unscrew the four long M3 screws and lower the entire print head assembly then insert the Bowden tube through the top hole and screw it back into the PTFE part and refit the print head. This avoids over tightening the Bowden tube into the PTFE part to much!
You can purchase PEEK for RS in Australia.
The M6x36mm brass tube and 0.35mm nozzle are from makergear.com and do not require PTFE tape to seal there presision machined and bed properly -
makergear.com/products/plastruder-replacement-parts
makergear.com/products/nozzles
The following flickr image flickr.com/photos/scottmayson/6858896762/ has notes for the relavent dimensions. Central filament hole is 1/8"
I will post a drawing soon if you want a shop to do it for you. In the meantime I had a play with tinkercad the students in our rapid class were talking about it. It's not bad Solidworks is my platform but they should be worried. tinkercad.com/things/iLvjDceNMLc I'll supply a solidworks part soon! dont fully trust the tinkercad part please ;p
However, this part was machined to fit the existing Ultimaker bowden tube with M6 x 10mm thread cut by hand, alloy plate with four holes that fixes the nozzle in place and Makergear brass tube and nozzle.
"Variation" The Bowden tube could have an M7 thread if cut by hand and matching M7 thread in PTFE component, The top will need to be shorter and rounder to allow for the M7 thread.
Heater block recycled from Ultimaker.
Tools required:
M6 tap intermediate and end
M6 Die
Lathe
See the following videos of it in action.
youtu.be/BVuYapH128k
youtu.be/CPiMJzieI6A
youtu.be/R-JmgTR4oQ4
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Is the geometry going to be any different for PEEK?
I'm getting quotes from workshops now to produce a part in PEEK with the existing geometry - so annoyed with the existing head design.
Hey Scott... going to CNC mine, I don't have a lathe. :)
The measurements in your table napkin sketch don't match up to the measurements in the photo, or the stl file. Is the stl file the most recent or most accurate? Which one would you recommend I go off of?
thanks!
Chuck
Taylor and I were working on the same idea, using a M7 in the top part, and M6 for the brass tube, threading the bowden with M7 (easy by hand with a hex die). My part from PTFE was printing great at 250C (ABS, probably 235C real temp), but failed immediately at 255C, which seems to be the max temp for PTFE. If you are printing only PLA, this is a great solution, but the higher temp required for ABS pushes the PTFE beyond it's operational margin.
I agree. I would use PEEK in future it was, back then, just too hard to source shipped to AUS. My printer has been fine for 3 months now with the changes. Now I'm no longer making mods for the ultimaker which is nice and I can focus on printing and research now :)
Best
Scott
I really like the look of this, maybe it could get my printer printing again. Do you happen to have that drawing lying around so I can see what it might cost to have someone machine one for me?
I've seen it in action and it has solved a lot of the problems the Scott was having.
Highly recommended to try if you have the capabilities and a psuedo-functional Ultimaker. ;)
Sounds interesting...
I'm still using an 0.35 mm Nozzle and ultimaker print quality jump to a higher level. This mod could improve it a little bit more!
Thanks,
GC
License
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I've ordered a piece of PEEK at 5/8" (15.9mm) x 12" from Amazon. I'm going to try machining it myself. Thank you for designing this! I'm so tired of my nozzle leaking. I have it down to a very slow leak that requires me to wipe it off a couple of times per hour while printing.
I'm also ordering both 0.25 and 0.5mm Bighead Nozzles. Some things that I want to make are small and have fine details. I'm thinking things like threads could be cleaner with a smaller tip.
In fact, I'd like a dual (or more) head not for different colors or different materials, but number one reason is to have more than one head size.
When making the part tap M6 all the way through so the Bowden and heater barrel meet.