Loading
Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Ultimaker Generic HeadMount

by mechadense, published

Ultimaker Generic HeadMount by mechadense Apr 4, 2012

Description

Version 2 is here!

With This single quick release coupling one can attach almost anything to the Ultimakers Printhead.
I'll soon release compatible toolheads for it (2012-04)

Improvements (v2):
* two templates included (raw & cylinder)
* improved code quality (split in modules) capital lettered modules are meant to be printed or modified by the user
* male part redesignd for a better print orientation that yields more stability. Still compatible to (v1)!
* added option to close the slot and mount it by screwing not ziptieing for even more stability
* slotdepth is now parametric (by taking two measures of your printhead; look for lxy & lxyspace in the malecoupling file)

Features (v1):
* generic ... mount any tool you like
* "quick" lock ... change the appandages on the fly
* ziptie (or threads) only mount & thus non invasive
... the coupling >itself< is removable without disassemblage of the head
* lightweight & almost no loss of printing space
... the coupling can stay on the printhead all the time
* does not block the thing:
"Bowden Clamp for Ultimaker (Heater End)" by owen
thingiverse.com/thing:11864
* one part design ... quick print
* funny red cross shape fitting to a giant syringe appendage (pasteprinting)

Recent Comments

view all
If you lead the zipties below the threaded rods like in the picture only two endstops will need prolongation of about 6mm (this is both in v1
&
amp; v2). The only way to avoid print-space-loss by design without severely reducing sturdiness is by making this part a complete replacement of the two adjacent or all four of the vertical walls of the printhead. But I didn't want to make it so intrusive that a complete disassemblement of the printhead is necesary for installation.
So the home endstops (as well as the right/front endstops) not being actionable is by design with V2 of your headmount. What about version 1?
I Intended to use this, but IMO for different reasons its a bad solution:

thingiverse.com/thing:22918

A ultra simple solution would be to make cuboid blocks that slide onto the endstop-protrusions of the wooden bushing blocks (friction fit)
Make them in different colors or mark them for the different sized toolheads you('ll) have

Makes

Liked By

view all

License

GNU - GPL
Ultimaker Generic HeadMount by mechadense is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Print with >=40% fill.
When mounting it with zipties make sure they go BELOW the threads (see image) this way the left and rear endswitches will retain functionality. In the front and on the right only a few mm printspace will be lost.

Choose toolhead:
drill: thingiverse.com/thing:20891
syringe: thingiverse.com/thing:21302
....
Or create your own:
thingiverse.com/thing:21297

Heck you could even modify a coat hook to be mountable ;)
thingiverse.com/thing:16920
Quick question about this. I"ve printed the V2 version and find that it prevents the endstop switches from being triggered.

Is this per design? Do I need to change the parms of the model, or move my endstop switches? It's not clear from your directions and photos. Thanks.
I Intended to use this, but IMO for different reasons its a bad solution:

thingiverse.com/thing:22918

A ultra simple solution would be to make cuboid blocks that slide onto the endstop-protrusions of the wooden bushing blocks (friction fit)
Make them in different colors or mark them for the different sized toolheads you('ll) have
So the home endstops (as well as the right/front endstops) not being actionable is by design with V2 of your headmount. What about version 1?
If you lead the zipties below the threaded rods like in the picture only two endstops will need prolongation of about 6mm (this is both in v1
&
amp; v2). The only way to avoid print-space-loss by design without severely reducing sturdiness is by making this part a complete replacement of the two adjacent or all four of the vertical walls of the printhead. But I didn't want to make it so intrusive that a complete disassemblement of the printhead is necesary for installation.
Clever idea. But does it limit the printing space with nothing attached? Because it seems you have mounted it in one of the "homing" directions.
Daid - in reply to Daid
FYI: A 1.5mm extra slot in the center makes it fit perfectly.

Also, for round holes, it's much easier to stick an $fs = 0.4; $fa = 5; line at the top of your script then to specify the $fn for each circle.

I got around to model and print my touch probe tool, but I got a layer shift in the print, so it's not fitting yet.
Well I hope the deeper slot dosen't weaken the part too much. That would defy the purpose of the lobes.

Uh Oh those dreaded layer shifts :'(
Looking forward to seeing you touch probe appendage. :)

Thanks for the $fa
&
amp; $fs hint.

en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Other_Language_Features
It still seems pretty strong, and because it slides correctly around the head now it is much more sturdy, even without zipties.

I've been re-doing the SCAD code for the female mount. I like the membrane idea, but it's slightly printed to low, making for a very thight fit. But it looks like you made a mistake on the "dmount" setting, or I got that setting wrong. I think it's the "depth" of the mount. But your code generates
a shallower female part then my code.

It looks like a dmount of 15 generates a part with a mount depth of 12.25mm. This might explain why your screw hole location calculation was off (and needs the t1 offset)

I've also put a small gab between the membrane and the backwall, in a hope to make it ea
sier to remove the membrane.

I've cleaned up and updated the female part of the mount, and I'll upload it as seperate part. (my probe will follow once I print a good head, and get it to work)
Yes I forgot to include the clearing to the membrane position. I too considered making that gap into the backside of the membrane but refrained from it because I wasn't sure if skeinforge is always smart enough to make the bridgelayer in the right direction (and that orientation independent). "dmount" was the length of the male part from the origin. Since I've added the lobes for sturdification I had to decrease the depth of the female parts cavity (origin of t1 I think). In any case that was an horrible mess I'am currently cleaning up the code
&
amp; turned everything upside down by now. (Don't worry all will stay compatible.)

Note: In your template model the female part reaches to the origin thus it is not in the same coordinate sytem.
A little less than 6mm of printing space will be lost on whichever corner cow mount it. I went for the front right (xmax
&
amp; ymax reduced) . The good thing is that it isn't the red cross that takes away the space. This protrusion actually vanishes really nicely in the corner. What takes away the 6mm is when the zipties on the white plastic areas touch the wooden end blocks. This is unavoidable I think. Just make a quick test-print stick it on an you'll see what I mean. It is a pretty small part.

btw: When frequently changing toolheads something like an quick adjustable endstop elongator

would come in handy.
So the base just slides under the wooden top, that's smart!

I don't mind losing 6mm in the Xmax and Ymax direction. I was thinking about designing an touch probe attachment. This way you could "scan" objects, and later print them.
Daid - in reply to Daid
I just tried it, and I got a few comments. It does not seem to fit under the wood as I thought it would, so it takes up more space then expected. And the "center slot" going from top to bottom is not deep enough, so it can swivel around on the long bolts.
Yes the coupling doesn't go under the top wooden plate of the Ultimaker. This would be impossible since exactly there are the pulleys. When you shift the naked head completely into a corner there is still an airhole visible and there goes the red cross when mounted. I'll upload some photos showing what I exactly meant with "This protrusion actually vanishes really nicely in the corner."

It doesn't fit? -- Interesting!
I suspect you have a later batch Ultimaker than mine. Afaik ** the heads sidelength changed at least once in the UM's-evolution. I have Order N°118 and my heads sidelength is 36mm and from M3bolt to M3bolt it is 42mm. Can you please tell me your printheads sizes. A
nyway I'll look to including an easy parameter for that kind of variability into the *.scad file.

** ps: I know this since my preassembled head has a different sidelength than the lasercut pieces of a head I have.
I have a Rev3 machine, one of the last with a preassmbled printer head.

I think it only needs to be 1.5mm deeper, I have adjusted the SCAD file for myself, but haven't got around to print it yet.
Daid - in reply to Daid
And I see the photos now. I understand how you measure the lost space. I guess mine is hitting the corner because the center slot is not deep enough. I'll try with my adjusted headmount soon so see if that works better.
Cool.

How do you do the electrical connection of the new toolheads?
By now I don't have any eletrical connections to the Mr-Tool drill (like Dremel) holder and Syringe assembly holder. They have only have Bowden tubes which are strong enough to support themselves. Well almost for the drill. I guess one could strap the cabling onto these bowdens and add electrical connectors to keep the assemblies seperable from the printer. Guess for certain reasons (which I'll explain in the apropriate thing) I'll need at least a security force shutdown switch for my syringe assembly.
Top