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Ultimaker Generic HeadMount

by mechadense, published

Ultimaker Generic HeadMount by mechadense Apr 4, 2012

Description

Version 2 is here!

With This single quick release coupling one can attach almost anything to the Ultimakers Printhead.
I'll soon release compatible toolheads for it (2012-04)

Improvements (v2):
* two templates included (raw & cylinder)
* improved code quality (split in modules) capital lettered modules are meant to be printed or modified by the user
* male part redesignd for a better print orientation that yields more stability. Still compatible to (v1)!
* added option to close the slot and mount it by screwing not ziptieing for even more stability
* slotdepth is now parametric (by taking two measures of your printhead; look for lxy & lxyspace in the malecoupling file)

Features (v1):
* generic ... mount any tool you like
* "quick" lock ... change the appandages on the fly
* ziptie (or threads) only mount & thus non invasive
... the coupling >itself< is removable without disassemblage of the head
* lightweight & almost no loss of printing space
... the coupling can stay on the printhead all the time
* does not block the thing:
"Bowden Clamp for Ultimaker (Heater End)" by owen
thingiverse.com/thing:11864
* one part design ... quick print
* funny red cross shape fitting to a giant syringe appendage (pasteprinting)

Recent Comments

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If you lead the zipties below the threaded rods like in the picture only two endstops will need prolongation of about 6mm (this is both in v1
&
amp; v2). The only way to avoid print-space-loss by design without severely reducing sturdiness is by making this part a complete replacement of the two adjacent or all four of the vertical walls of the printhead. But I didn't want to make it so intrusive that a complete disassemblement of the printhead is necesary for installation.

So the home endstops (as well as the right/front endstops) not being actionable is by design with V2 of your headmount. What about version 1?

I Intended to use this, but IMO for different reasons its a bad solution:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

A ultra simple solution would be to make cuboid blocks that slide onto the endstop-protrusions of the wooden bushing blocks (friction fit)
Make them in different colors or mark them for the different sized toolheads you('ll) have

Makes

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License

GNU - GPL
Ultimaker Generic HeadMount by mechadense is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Instructions

Print with >=40% fill.
When mounting it with zipties make sure they go BELOW the threads (see image) this way the left and rear endswitches will retain functionality. In the front and on the right only a few mm printspace will be lost.

Choose toolhead:
drill: thingiverse.com/thing:20891
syringe: thingiverse.com/thing:21302
....
Or create your own:
thingiverse.com/thing:21297

Heck you could even modify a coat hook to be mountable ;)
thingiverse.com/thing:16920

Comments

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Bradley on May 12, 2012 said:

Quick question about this. I"ve printed the V2 version and find that it prevents the endstop switches from being triggered.

Is this per design? Do I need to change the parms of the model, or move my endstop switches? It's not clear from your directions and photos. Thanks.

mechadense on May 12, 2012 said:

I Intended to use this, but IMO for different reasons its a bad solution:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

A ultra simple solution would be to make cuboid blocks that slide onto the endstop-protrusions of the wooden bushing blocks (friction fit)
Make them in different colors or mark them for the different sized toolheads you('ll) have

Daid on Apr 6, 2012 said:

Clever idea. But does it limit the printing space with nothing attached? Because it seems you have mounted it in one of the "homing" directions.

Daid on Apr 13, 2012 said:

FYI: A 1.5mm extra slot in the center makes it fit perfectly.

Also, for round holes, it's much easier to stick an $fs = 0.4; $fa = 5; line at the top of your script then to specify the $fn for each circle.

I got around to model and print my touch probe tool, but I got a layer shift in the print, so it's not fitting yet.

mechadense on Apr 7, 2012 said:

A little less than 6mm of printing space will be lost on whichever corner cow mount it. I went for the front right (xmax
&
amp; ymax reduced) . The good thing is that it isn't the red cross that takes away the space. This protrusion actually vanishes really nicely in the corner. What takes away the 6mm is when the zipties on the white plastic areas touch the wooden end blocks. This is unavoidable I think. Just make a quick test-print stick it on an you'll see what I mean. It is a pretty small part.

btw: When frequently changing toolheads something like an quick adjustable endstop elongator

would come in handy.

MarcusWolschon on Apr 4, 2012 said:

Cool.

How do you do the electrical connection of the new toolheads?

mechadense on Apr 5, 2012 said:

By now I don't have any eletrical connections to the Mr-Tool drill (like Dremel) holder and Syringe assembly holder. They have only have Bowden tubes which are strong enough to support themselves. Well almost for the drill. I guess one could strap the cabling onto these bowdens and add electrical connectors to keep the assemblies seperable from the printer. Guess for certain reasons (which I'll explain in the apropriate thing) I'll need at least a security force shutdown switch for my syringe assembly.

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