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Vertical carriage for Rostock

by Johann, published

Vertical carriage for Rostock by Johann Apr 7, 2012

Description

Rostock is a delta robot 3D printer.

This part is the vertical carriage for LM8UU and universal joints to attach two diagonal rods.

Newer versions of the OpenSCAD source files will be published here: github.com/jcrocholl/rostock

Recent Comments

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http://deltabot.tumblr.com/pos...

If they were loose enough to spin freely, the platform would have backlash and your prints would be inaccurate. The holes should be very tight, so that the M3 screws will cut their own thread into the joint pieces. First there will be some friction but after a while, they will move smoothly but wi
thout backlash.

Actually, I didn't realize there was a forum running, I'll move this over there, thanks! https://groups.google.com/foru...

Hello! Very exciting reading about the Rostock. I just received a printed parts set I had someone print for me. It looks very high quality, but the universal joints seem very tight, is that normal or should they be fairly loose? Should the holes for the m3 nuts require drilling out?

Thanks so much for sharing this design.

Makes

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License

GNU - GPL
Vertical carriage for Rostock by Johann is licensed under the GNU - GPL license.

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Instructions

Print three of these and attach each to a pair of LM8UU linear bearings with zip ties. To improve the horizontal constraint, you could use LM8LUU (45 mm long) instead of LM8UU (24 mm long) on one side, but this is optional.

Screw a M3x16 with a round head into the vertical hole to adjust/calibrate the top endstop. You shouldn't need to pre-cut the thread, it should fit very snugly if your printer is calibrated properly.

Put four M3 nuts inside the universal joints. Then insert four M3x12 screws with washers through these nuts and into the universal joint pieces. Tighten them pretty well to prevent the delta robot from unscrewing itself.

For all fasteners I recommend stainless steel.

Comments

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flimshaw on Sep 7, 2012 said:

Hello! Very exciting reading about the Rostock. I just received a printed parts set I had someone print for me. It looks very high quality, but the universal joints seem very tight, is that normal or should they be fairly loose? Should the holes for the m3 nuts require drilling out?

Thanks so much for sharing this design.

Johann on Sep 8, 2012 said:

http://deltabot.tumblr.com/pos...

If they were loose enough to spin freely, the platform would have backlash and your prints would be inaccurate. The holes should be very tight, so that the M3 screws will cut their own thread into the joint pieces. First there will be some friction but after a while, they will move smoothly but wi
thout backlash.

flimshaw on Sep 7, 2012 said:

Actually, I didn't realize there was a forum running, I'll move this over there, thanks! https://groups.google.com/foru...

jamesarm97 on Jul 20, 2012 said:

Can you specify the % fill and other important setting when printing these pieces.

RISL on Jul 19, 2012 said:

Hello friend I
´m interested in your machine but wanted to ask if it can be operated with a pic because I have a cnc which would be modified to make a 3d printer but I wonder if you could help me with pregrama in C. if this is possible.

is an amazing machine

Thanks

TheRealChrisLee on Jul 15, 2012 said:

What material do you recommend this be created from?

Shapeways has White, Strong
&
amp; Flexible - PA 2200

Johann on Jul 15, 2012 said:

Until now I have only printed these parts with PLA on my Prusa Mendel. PLA parts are very strong and rigid, not flexible.

http://www.shapeways.com/mater... PA 2200 (Nylon 12) looks like it might work okay. 80 Celsius is probably not heat resistant enough for the parts near the hotend, which operates at 185 Celsius. But the vertical carriage is far away from the hotend so it may work okay.

I wo
uld probably try http://www.shapeways.com/mater... instead, which is the same as above but with Aliminum dust mixed in. It is heatproof to 172 Celsius and more rigid.

If you get parts from Shapeways, please let us know how they work.

bstott on Jul 11, 2012 said:

Your recommendation of one longer bearing - Is this from experience or a good suggestion?

And do you think that 3mm filament would work for a replacement for screws in the universal joints?

Johann on Jul 15, 2012 said:

The longer LM8LUU was just an experiment to see if it would keep the carriage more horizontal. It doesn't seem to make a difference, except for added cost and weight.

I tried filament instead of M3 screws but the results were not very good. If you make the holes tight enough to avoid backlash, then there is so much friction that you can't push the filament in, and even if you did, the joint will not operate smoothly.

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