by berky93, published
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Announcement: You can now purchase this spinner from my shop. Check it out!
Update 2/20/2017: Added a version of the pins that features a twist-lock mechanism based on 2ROBOTGUY's ingenious design. They interlock for a nice, sturdy fit that won't come loose easily. I only included notched versions of those pins since they're arguably the most comfortable.
Update 2/20/2017: I've added a new version of this spinner that features an embedded bearing, as well. Simply pause the print as normal and insert the bearing alongside the 3 counterweights. The new, embedded bearing version is labeled V2 and the original press-in bearing version is labeled V1.
I decided to hop on the spinner bandwagon because I love fidget toys. But I don't like the exposed hardware on most spinners. This version uses hex nuts that are inserted during printing as the counterweights for a seamless look and feel. It's also a bit more compact than spinners that use bearings as counterweights.
Includes a version of the finger pins with my logo, one with just some simple circles, and one with a deep notch allowing you to balance the spinner on the tip of a pen.
Requires 1x skateboard bearing and 3x 3/8"-16 hex nuts. I chose brass ones since they're heavier but any nuts should work. You could also use hex stock cut to the same size, which would increase the weight (since the center of the nuts is hollow) and improve the spin time, but also increases the amount of work that needs to be done to build these. The nuts must be 7mm thick or less. The ones I used are here but you could probably find others that will work.
Printing one of these is fairly simple but the mid-print hardware insertion can be confusing for some people so read the printing instructions below for more information.
Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2
- Slice the models like you normally would. Be sure to print 2 of the pins, one for each side of the spinner. Make sure you don't have supports enabled.
- Take note of which layer is the first one to cover the hexagonal holes. You will need to insert a pause command into your gcode before that layer. I've included some sample code -- the code I always use for pauses -- below. Simply open your gcode file in any text editor and insert the code on the line before that layer starts. Most slicers include comments that denote the layer numbers.
- When the printer pauses, insert one hex nut into each of the 3 holes.
- Resume the print. Different printers handle this in different ways. Some show a "resume" button/option on their main screen, while others bury it under menus. You'll have to do some research if you aren't sure how to pause/resume on your printer.
- Assemble your spinner. The tolerances can vary from printer to printer, so you may find the bearing or pins are slightly loose. A drop or two of CA glue (super glue) should do the trick.
Here's my pause code:
; PAUSE M85 S0; Disable Timeout G90 ; Absolute M400 ; Wait Buffer g28 X Y; G91 ; Relative G1 Z50 ; Move Up 50 G90 ; Absolute M117 "Change Filament" ; M400 ; Wait Buffer M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M25 ; Pause SD Print G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
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Polaris Spinner by berky93 is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike license.
What does this mean?
- You must attribute (give credit) to the creator of this Thing.
- You must distribute Remixes under the same license as the original.
- Remixing or Changing this Thing is allowed.
- Commercial use is not allowed.
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