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Robo 3D Y-axis smooth rod replacement

by leonmf, published

Robo 3D Y-axis smooth rod replacement by leonmf Dec 24, 2013
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Summary

This is a relatively simple design for replacing the drawer rail slides on the Y axis.

Instructions

Print the Y base and rod adapters in ABS. I printed the spacers in ABS, too.

Print the cable management in PLA or you won't be able to use ABS juice on your bed.

I printed everyting with 30% infill.

I drilled out the rod adapters after printing to be a snug but not tight fit on the rod so that I could slide it in place as needed.

If you don't use a spring based leveling system, you only lose 3mm of height over stock and you retain the full usable heated bed. I found that I only needed to add a washer under one corner to get acceptable level and I'm not sure I needed that.

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Thank you for this. I contacted RoBo 3D recently and inquired about getting the upgrade kit without the heated bed. They obviously didn't want to do that because they wouldn't be getting the money. This is going to be my weekend upgrade.

Beware that, over time the bearings loosened up, causing my bed to wallow. I reduced the inner bore to 0.2 and slightly thickened the top which I never uploaded because I never used it. So, be aware of this potential problem and, potentially try some method to keep the problem from occuring in your install.

I used a little bit of RVT to "glue" the bearings into the blocks. That solved the issue for me with the bearings walking out of the blocks while printing.

Any chance you could upload those files if you happen to still have them? Can you also mention how log those shafts were that you used? Thanks again.

Do you mind sharing what bushings you used? This is most likely going to be my next upgrade.

Just standard lm8uu. That said, I would consider this upgrade obsolete now that Robo 3D has released their smooth rod upgrade.

I ended up creating and printing an updated clip for the wires on the heated bed (http://www.thingiverse.com/thihttp://www.thingiverse.com/thi... due to the wires catching on (and eventually killing my thermistor) the pillow blocks. The clip provided here didn't work for me because the wires were catching on the housing. This updated clip design clears the pillow blocks and the housing.

What diameter of rod are you using with this? 8mm?

Out of curiosity, how long were rods you purchase for your robo3d? A few days ago I've noticed that my printer's Y-rails are 10,000's of an inch higher on both ends compared to the center. If I try to print something that go's from the center to either side, the hot-end tip hits the model off the build plate >.< ...

I used an 800mm rod from McMaster-Carr, which I cut into two pieces approximately the length of the bed. I've also replaced the rods in the X and Z directions as well. I don't know how much benefit I got from those replacements other than peace of mind and a taller Z axis.

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