Ultimaker Syringe Extrusion System (quickmountable)

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Published on April 13, 2012

Description

Features:
* It can be mounted & removed within seconds facilitating the:
Ultimaker Generic HeadMount
thingiverse.com/thing:20775
* No z buildspace is lost. If you crash the syringe into the build platform it will just slide upward until the z endstop is reached - no damage.

Restrictions:
* springiness of the dyneema thread (preextrusion needed)
* If you have a custom extruder you might be required to redesign the winder coupling part.
* The current design uses
"Ultimaker BowdenFeeder Repair Kit"
thingiverse.com/thing:10799
* The current design only works with the old style hobbed bolt which has a hexagonal head

Credits:
* This design was heavily inspired but not directly derived from
thingiverse.com/thing:14421
"ultimaker syringe extruder II" by joris
It was redesigned from scratch to gain more parameterisability
and instead of the plastic filament it uses a dyneema thread to pull the piston in.

Notes:
* A real bowden-cable from a bike is probably too stiff
the piston wold start to retract before the wire would lie flat on the winder ([4b] see in the instructions)
edit: after initial tests I'am not so sure about this this anymore
* The Gcode files are for Ultimakers with an old Bolt.

Instructions

Needed Materials:
* 100 ml monster sized syringe (*.stl is for 39mm outer diameter syringes)
amazon.de/Blasenspritzen-Blasenspritze-Spritzen-Klistierspritzen-Einmalspritzen/dp/B005XJ6YTO/ref=sr_1_3?s=drugstore&ie=UTF8&qid=1334316285&sr=1-3
* woven mulistrand dyneema thread: 80cm long and around 1mm diameter thick
* two thick bicycle/motorcycle bowden tubes id=2mm od=5mm around 60cm & 15cm (+ 4x 5.8mm metalcaps)
* long zipties (preferably reversible ones)
* M3 Screws & Nuts
* one ball bearing h=7mm od=22 id=8mm

Needed Tools:
File, Knife, Big Needle

-------------------------------------------------------------

Assembly Instructions:

(1) print: & mount the
Ultimaker Generic HeadMount
thingiverse.com/thing:20775
with >=40% Fill

(2a) print: "Ultimaker-syringe_rings-lower.stl"
(2b) print: "Ultimaker-syringe_rings-upper.stl"
(2c) clean your parts and bore through the holes
(2d) push [2a] all the way onto the syringe from below - printbottom facing upwards
and rotate holes 90° relative to syringe fingergrips
(2e) push [2b] onto the syringe piston from above - printbottom facing upwards
and rotate 90° relative to thumbloop
(2f) more later

(3a) print: "Ultimaker-HeadMount_syringe100_v1.stl" with >=40% Fill
(3b) ziptie [3a] onto the bottommost part of the syringe
(3c) more later

(4a) print: "Ultimaker-RealBowdenDrive_windercoupling.stl" with >=80% Fill
(4b) print: "Ultimaker-RealBowdenDrive_winderspool.stl" with >=80% Fill *****
(4c) clean your parts and bore through the holes (3.0mm & 2.5mm)
(4d) Take the top M6 Nut from the big gear on the extruder -
put it into [2a] and screw the whole assembly back onto the bolt. (arrows should match gear arrow)

(4e) with the big needle thread the dyneema through one of the holes in the spool [4b]
(4f) thread the dyneema through the hole thats 90° crossing the previous one passing the dyneema on one side.
(4g) thread the dyneema back through the same hole passing the dyneema on the other side.
(4h) pull out a dyneema loop (as little as possible)
(4i) knot th dyneemas net onto that loop an cut it short (1to2mm)
(4j) pull the knot into the spool
(4k) perfect - later more (If anything is unclear look at the pictures at the Thingiverse site)

(5a) print (>30% fill) and mount
"Ultimaker BowdenFeeder Repair Kit"
thingiverse.com/thing:10799
The windercoupling will springclamp onto this!
No drilling is necessary! just stick it on
(5b) print: Ultimaker-RealBowdenDrive_windercoupling.stl
(5c) push the ball bearing into [5b]
(5d) slide a M3 nut into the sideward slot of [4b] (you may file it out first)
(5e) push [4b] into the bearing
(5f) fix [4b] onto the bearing using a M3 screw and the washer that was included in [5b]
(5g) let us call the result the "winch assembly"

(5h) thread you dyneema strand from [4b] in order through
[5g] - The long bowden tube -
one side of [2b] downward -
one side of [2a] downward -
The short bowden tube -
other side of [2a] upward -
other side of [2b] upward -
and make a knot there
(5i) friction stick or glue the ends of the bowden tubes into their corresponding pockets

(6a) push [4b] into [4a] and onto
push [5a] onto the filament drive
stick the syringe with its [3a] onto [1]
pull the syringes piston too its outermost position
tension the dyneema strand so there is only one or to windings on [4b]
make a knot on the other end on [2b]

-------------------------------------

Usage:
(7) quickmounting: (within seconds)
pushpull [3a] onto [1] (lock with two M3 bolts if needed)
pushpull [5f] into [4a] and onto [5a]
Both are lockable with M3 screws

Test with dough:
Make the shortbread doughs viscosity barely self-supporting.
Skeinforge settings that I used for the dough test:
(These are for the naked 2mm diameter syringe tip.
For the 1mm diameter adapters halve the layer thicknss and
quarter the flowrate.)
carve:
Layer Thickness (mm): 1.25
Perimeter Width over Thickness (ratio): 1.8
speed:
Feed Rate (mm/s): 30.0
Flow RateSetting (float): 6.6
fill:
Extra shells: all 6
Infill Solidity (ratio): 0.0
Solid Surface Thickness (layers): 0
comb: off
jitter: off

Hint:
Don't mount the Syringe too high up or else the thermoplastic printhead might scratch through your extruded paste



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Would this type of extruder be recommended for Meat extrusion? just normal hamburger meat...? Has it been converted to work with a Wade's extruder?

Great job on it!

Thanks,
It should work. The dough I extruded has a similar conistency to minced meat. The syringe has to be used without the downsizing adapter so you'll get quite coarse prints. For other filament drives it's highly probable that there are no extensions yet.

I like how you attached everything to the drive mechaninsm. Clever use of the existing motor.

For the new style bolt, you could change the design a bit so you can insert a hex key into your part, which slides into the new style bolt.

Yes I'am really happy with how nice it snaps on.

You mean subtract a hex hole into the winder-spool and glue in a short cut piece of an allen key there. The winder-coupling (that enchases the bolt head) could still be used to lock the part axially which will be more necessary since the bolts recess for the allenkey isn't very deep. With this sol
ution no additional axial space is needed so its straight forward. Nice - this is easier than I thought. It took quite a while till I got your idea.