Loading

Boucle 50 mm x 55 mm Sac à dos Quechua Forclaz 30 L - Backpack buckle 50 mm x 55 mm

by bebenlebricolo, published

Boucle 50 mm x 55 mm Sac à dos Quechua Forclaz 30 L - Backpack buckle 50 mm x 55 mm by bebenlebricolo Feb 26, 2017

Design Tools

Catia V5

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

2291Views 452Downloads Found in Sport & Outdoors

Summary

---- Specifications ----
50 mm (actual 47 mm wide) x 55 mm Buckle - Replacement part - Decatlhon Forclaz 30 Litres
Both parts (male and female) + improved male part (2 more springs) and virtual assembly for validation purposes (design)

----EN----
I made a replacement part for the broken piece of my backpack. The original one have been overstressed and broke at the attachement area of the backpack strap.
Then i used my CAD software to make a replacement part, keeping as much as I could the original measures of the original part. I finally made a virtual assembly design to correct the little measurement mistakes, and make some improvements of the design.

---- Fr ----
J'ai conçu cette pièce en suivant les cotes de la pièce d'origine (qui provient d'un sac de randonnée de marque Décathlon, de la gamme Forclaz 30 L) pour remplacer la pièce d'origine (boucle femelle). Les deux boucles se veulent aussi proches que possible des pièces originales, en termes de design. J'ai également effectué un assemblage virtuel "à blanc" pour tester la conception, corriger les erreurs de mesures et effectuer quelques améliorations.

Print Settings

Printer:

Prusa i3 Rework

Rafts:

Yes

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.3 (best) or 0.2 mm

Infill:

100% (max rigidity)


Notes:

----EN----
These parts might by printed laying flat on the 3D printer bed (biggest side of the part). This will help the buckle to withstand mechanical stress thanks to the lining of the filament fibers (they should be aligned with the X axe of the part, then the mechanical load could be easily handled by the fibers).

---- Fr -----
Ces deux pièces doivent être imprimées à plat, selon leur plus grand côté. La répartition de la charge mécanique sera bien meilleure si les couches sont dans le même plan que le plan de la charge principale (plan xy, avec une composante majorante sur l'axe X).

Print Instructions

Male buckle part (easy one)

Male buckle part :

Nothing too hard for this part. I ended with many functionnal parts using Cura and Sli3r. Just make sure to enable supports (and brim / raft for ABS because of the small footprint of the part).
I recommend using pillar structure with Slic3r as they are really easy to remove, and make sure to correctly tweak the gap distance between the support structure and the actual piece.

Support settings (Slic3r):
0.2 mm Z spacing and 2.5 mm pattern spacing.
3 interface layers.
ABS 220 deg Hot end / 70 deg bed

Female buckle (hard part)

This part is much more tricky than the male one.
Be sure to use supports, but with a big spacing pattern (15 mm for me) to make it easy to remove (the inside of the buckle is quite inaccessible ). I also used Honeycomb structure instead of pillars, and made the Z spacing and interface layers higher than the default values.

Support settings :
0.35 mm Z spacing
15 mm spacing
Honeycomb pattern
3 to 5 interface layers

Overhang threshold : 0 (set Slic3r to automatic mode, it saved my print! )

More from Sport & Outdoors

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Really hard to print!
I'm going to try printing it upside down and and maybe make the bottom flat to the print plate so that no supports are needed.
Maybe also I'll try moving the springs so I can create a bridge across the centre.
Have you successfully printed it?

Hello ! I finally made the male piece, with slic3r and a 0.3mm resolution, 210 degrees PLA and the result is much better than expected. I had no difficulty to break the support pieces and even if the structure is a bit rough, it looks quite satisfying to me.
Although, I spent most of the preparation time choosing the right setup parameters for the print...
Have you managed to get yours right ?

Hi,
Yes the Male piece prints fine, although like I say, I reckon shaving the webbing grip down a bit looking at the voids would mean it would print upside down without any support at all!
The hard part is the female part, as the side-walls are a bit thin to be self standing when they print (they disintegrate and are not strong enough to withstand pressure from insertion) and of course the bridging is really large (although surprisingly that's structurally fine, just messy internally.) Again, printing upside down and flattening the down side would mean no supports required.
I printed in ABS @ .25 with 235 deg extrusion and 95 deg bed at 100mm/s

Mar 1, 2017 - Modified Mar 1, 2017

Hi sir! I finally got the perfect pieces i was heading for these last days.
I used .3 mm layer, 220 deg ABS / 70 deg bed 60 mm /s with nicely tweaked support materials (Slic3r 's honeycomb with 15 mm pattern spacing and automatic overhang threshold).
Seems to be working quite well and both pieces are perfectly functionnal.
Made some continuous improvements on male ( 2 mm longer and wider) and female part (thicker side walls and thicker base part to withstand a greater stress).
Again, thanks for your precious feedback, you spotted right!

PS : We may try to print it vertically, as you advised. I would be curious to see if the layers are correctly melting to one another.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.
Top