Loading

Nintendo Switch Con U v2

by artobot, published

Nintendo Switch Con U v2 by artobot Mar 13, 2017

Contents

Design Tools

Tinkercad

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

31093Views 3336Downloads Found in Video Games

Summary

Here's the updated version of my Switch Joy-Con holder. I've removed any issues that should prevent it from needing any supports as well as addressed some gaps that confused some slicers. I also slimmed it up a bit, making it a bit more compact / travel friendly.

Essential print settings, make sure that you have at most a .4mm nozzle and set the nozzle size in the settings to .4mm ( default for some is .48 ). layer height and infill shouldn't really matter. No supports needed.

More from Video Games

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App
8 hours ago - Modified 8 hours ago

I printed the repaired V2 with base and in Cura, I see the slight rail at the top but the print came out smooth. The multiple files is super confusing and it would be nice if we could clean this up. They're all named V2! Does anybody have an idea why the rails wouldn't print?

Edit:
Solution?: My Taz 5 has a .5mm nozzle diameter, I believe this is big enough to ignore the rails. There is a remix (thing 2221841) that I'm trying now that should accommodate this!

Why are there so many versions?? Which one is good?? Can't u just delete the other files

I tried the V2 repaired with base and the rails didn't print at the top. No idea why but I think that's the file that's supposed to work.

The joycons also don't stay in place for me. I figured out why and have modeled rails that work. If you look at the switch with the joycon off you'll see that, from the top, there's 4.5mm of rail, then a 4.5mm gap, and then the rest of the rail. The button you press on the back of the joycon to take it off the switch causes a little peg on the joycon to retract. It's this peg that fits in the 4.5mm space and keeps the joyccon from just sliding off the switch. Your controller needs this as well.

I've tried with a past version of this to have the exact same rails as designed on the original controller with the gap, the issue is since it's only .4mm thick rail the top portion snaps as pla can not compare to rolled steel. To adjust for this I made the rails friction fit, which after printing several dozen so far have been pretty snug depending on the filament type. I'm currently working on another version though of this which will have several improvements 1 of which being something to "click" in the joycons.

I've just designed and printed my own with the gap and it seems pretty sturdy. I'll let you know if it breaks, but since the force is distributed along the entire rail while the joycons are attached I expect it to hold up pretty well.

I downloaded the repaired version but 3d builder, cura, and autodesk still say there are errors that prevent it from slicing. Any ideas?

Looks great and Joycons fit perfect on mine. I was hoping this would be a better alternative to the included grip for larger hands but, sadly, it's still too small for me. =(

Apr 9, 2017 - Modified Apr 9, 2017

Nice design, but the Joycons sadly don't hold on to the print, they click in a little, but with the slightest force (even holding them), they slide back out.
Printed on Prusa i3 MK2S with PLA.

What's the diameter of your nozzle and the slicer you're using? I've printed several over the past couple days and they've been a nice fit.

Apr 9, 2017 - Modified Apr 9, 2017
Kaeltis - in reply to artobot

The nozzle is the 0.4mm default nozzle of the Prusa, using the most recent version of Slic3r Prusa Edition with nozzle diameter also set to 0.4mm.

Here's the gcode:
http://www39.zippyshare.com/v/8maIIqjL/file.html

Apr 8, 2017 - Modified Apr 8, 2017

Can someone please extend the rails for the joy cons all the way to the top? i find that if i notch them the joy cons click in just fine but then the top of the rail is a super small tab that break off easy... I have tried Sketch up pro Blender and Autocad but they all just crash when i try to load the model.. Also make the rails a little thicker like .3mm so there isn't as much slop. Please and thanks.

Model isn't manifold. Not even the fixed version. Can't slice it with slic3r.

Can you share the manifold errors you're seeing. I've tested this now with as many slicers as I can get a hold of and haven't had any issues with the repaired versions. I've also done error testing with Meshmixer, S3D, and taken through Microsoft's repair service.

I have tried to print the old version and new one and neither one prints the lips to hold the joycons on. Am I missing something. It shows on the print screen to be there but then it just print with no lip at all. Its just a u channel instead of a c channel to hold it. I am using Cura on a Lulzbot mini. Any suggestions?

It's the nozzle size. Taz comes with a .5mm nozzle and the rails are .4mm thick. User Juancgarcia this morning uploaded a remix with .5mm rails, but I'm not sure how tight / loose of a fit it is post design. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221841

Nintendo Switch Con U v2 (for 0.5mm nozzle)

Awesome. Thanks

Printed perfectly and looks wonderful. I love the design and it feels great. Unfortunately, I have found that the joycons too easily slip out of the rails. Not sure the solution - clips, end stops, slightly tighter size? - but an awesome start.

Comments deleted.

I cant seem to get any of these STLs to slice. Ive tried Cura and S3D and it just sits there. Slicing never takes this long.

Weird, what are your settings on S3D? Are you slicing for your printrbot or rigidbot?

Hello do you have the STP file

hy,

I printed it twice and I have a problem with the rails on the joy con connectors (Back Support Version). they are to thin and breaking of after two to three uses. I tried the repaired version too. Any Idea to get tougher rails?

Printed on a Makerbot Replicator x2 with ABS and 0.3mm layer hight and the nozzle set

thanks

I've been printing it with PLA ( currently have a friend or 2 play testing them ) who haven't experienced breakage. I've tried upping the thickness of the rails with some prototypes, but the joycons either won't slide on or it feels like they are wedging the rails off. If you look at the actual rails on the switch they are pretty thin and made of rolled metal which I tried to duplicate the thickness and widened the rail a bit to insure a smoother glide.

My experience with ABS is they it doesn't handle detail well, I would try some PLA+ ( eSun makes great stuff ), I've also printed it multiple times now with Protopasta's silver smoke and their carbon fiber which come out great.

hy I printed it with PLA and I have the same problem the left side is perfect but the right one doesn't hold and breaks right off.

Hmm weird, the model itself is just one rail copied and flipped and attached to the other. Looking at some of your prints it looks like you may be running a little hot and you may need to up the retraction to prevent the stringing from rail to rail. Also you may want to re lube the rails on your makerbot as it seems like there is some shift / banding in the axis during prints.

I'd love to play around with the original file if you'd consider sharing it.

Made it with tinkercad, export direct to STL.

Mar 23, 2017 - Modified Mar 23, 2017

Attempted multiple times to print this on an UP Box + and Up Mini 2. Prints garbage. I've looked at the files in Meshmixer as well as a few other repair apps and every one reports multiple errors. In fact, the auto-repair ends up totally destroying the design. Too many errors it seems.

EDIT 1: I tried this all last night. It appears a new repaired model is up this morning, like 8 hours after I wracked my brain trying to fix this. Will attempt asap!

EDIT 2: Already, I can see it's actually printing the raft correctly instead of just gibberish. Will update after the print (3.5 hours).

Apologies I'm not familiar with the UP Box hardware, do you just upload the STL and it slices it for you? Or do you have a slicer installed on a computer that you can preview the slice prior to printing? If not that seems extremely frustrating to have to way to see if something sliced properly.

Actually, your repaired file printed PERFECTLY. The only thing my perfectionist side is not enamored with is the switch logos, as they cannot print perfectly in the vertical orientation. I'm extremely happy with this design. It is very portable, but I will need to use a different case since it's not thin enough to fit in my case, but that's not really possible being that the rails have to slide into this.

Overall, this is the best design out there and looks great. I have four pics I'll upload into my make.

No luck with slic3r... too many errors :(

Just uploaded a repaired version of the original working on repairing the version with the back support now.

Mar 23, 2017 - Modified Mar 23, 2017
vinicius795 - in reply to artobot

when i open in Repetier-host, it show me that the models are still with errors, both repaired models and Slic3r is popping errors like crazy, if you dont mind, post the original files, not the stl ones, and we all can work on this, your work is amazing. I was able to fix the original model (with the suport), if you allow me i will post it.

I used Tinkercad and exported direct to STL. I then ran it through microsoft's repair service and then inspected it with meshmixer repairing what it found there ( a few manifold issues ). What software do you use to repair, I wouldn't mind picking it up to learn myself as I'd like to move away from Tinkercad into a proper CAD application ( was gonna move to Fusion360... but now the $ is making me waiver ).

Its a little to big. The joycons just fall out.
Anyone have a suggestion?

Little more detail, what printer / material / settings were used?

what filament did you use for the blue one? I'd like to buy some to print in that color

it looks like it matches pretty well in the pictures, how well does it match up IRL?

The hue is a little warmer than the joycon, but it's close, I think the only way to get closer would be to paint ( which would probably be pretty cool if it was done 50% blue and 50% red ).

Made one today, turned out great, about having a clip to hold the joy cons on, how about an end cap that clips to the holder itself. That way it should be more robust, and you don't have to worry about it or the clips on the joy cons potentially breaking.

Apologies, I may need you to draw a diagram. As it is now with the several I've printed so far everything has had a nice friction fit.

Tried to import the model into slic3r but got 91532 errors. checked it in blender and it seems the model isn't fully manifold. It also contains too many errors to auto-repair.

Just uploaded a repaired version of the original working on repairing the version with the back support now.

the repaired one slices correctly, thanks!

Apologies I've been spoiled by Tinkercad and S3D working well together. I brought it into meshmixer and see what you mean. I'll see what I can do to fix it.

Tried to print it twice with abs, didn't do the ridges that hold the controller, an's the insides that hold the other pieces are all strings, any advice?

I rarely print in ABS and when I do it's rough to print detail as I think you really have to nail the temperature, if it's stringing you may need to lower the temp a bit and or up the retraction. If anyone else wants to chime in. Have you tried any other materials?

any suggestions. using dremel printer when i press upload file and image loogs good but upon presing build it missing more than have the image so it cancell print due to not doing the whole build

Apologies I'm not familiar with Dremel's slicing tools. Have you tried Cura?

I would like to manipulate the modell in tinkercad but for some unknows reason I canot import any of your works, are they kinda protected? or is something wrong with tinkercad today?

They shouldn't be, I made them in Tinkercad and regularly import them myself.

Worked after trying again after a few hours, seemed to be tinkercads fault, thanks anyway ;)

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017

Great job with the tolerances! Any chance for a version without the gap for the hand straps, just completely solid in the center, perhaps with just a small hole at the bottom for a non-Switch generic hand strap to be knotted on? I just feel like my print might break if carried in a bag without any of the actual Switch parts attached. Other than that, with joycons and straps all attached, feels and looks great!

I just uploaded a version with a back for a significant gain in rigidity while still allowing the grips to slide in.

Thats what I wanted to add to one of your earlier designs, now I dont have to make my hands dirty at all, great work, THANKS!!

Very cool, thanks!

Mar 14, 2017 - Modified Mar 14, 2017

What are the dimensions of this? I would prefer if you could be as exact as possible. Thanks :)

14.5x42.25x112.25

Mar 14, 2017 - Modified Mar 14, 2017

Is that inches, millimeters, or centimeters? Sorry for being so specific xD

EDIT: Probably millimeters, by the screenshot.

EDIT: EDIT: Yeah, don't reply to this. I didn't think.

EDIT: EDIT: EDIT: What material did you use?

First print was Protopasta's Smoke 1.75 PLA

Apologies, my assumption in this community is that everything is in MM.

It's ok. I just wanted to be sure, and thanks! :)

I printed using default settings on Da Vinci 1.0 (so 10% infill, .2mm layer height, no supports, but with a brim) PLA. The channel that the controllers slide into was very thin and the "U" shaped parts that actually hold onto the controller rails was separating from the base part. However, the controllers slid in OK and actually stayed in place. It wasn't quite the right shape for my hand, but I really appreciate what you and the other makers are doing with the switch grips here.

Mar 14, 2017 - Modified Mar 14, 2017

Okay, I reduced the thickness of the model by 3% and printed another. It's unfortunately still too loose. Better, but still loose, and ends up sliding off when playing. I think there needs to be a notch at the top of the rail like in the original grip. That's what catches the locking mechanism. Any chance of uploading a STEP file?
Edit: I see you said you made it in Tinkercad, not sure what filetype it supports.

It's a simple software that just allows for the export of STLs and OBJs

Just finished printing it, but unfortunately the fit is too loose. My joycons keep sliding right off. Was a five hour print, but came out really nice, shame about it being loose though. I'll have to knock it down in size a few percent and try again.

5 hours? What are your print settings? I usually average around 3 to print at a .2mm, 3 shell, and a 15% infill.

Mar 13, 2017 - Modified Mar 13, 2017
alextoff - in reply to artobot

I'm going to try again now, resized to 99%, 15% infill. S3D is telling me 2hrs 34min, but it'll probably be more like 4 hours. ;) This thing isn't accurate at all.

edit, S3D, not your design. I think the design itself is great.

Yeah S3D tells me 3 hours at 0.2mm, 3 shells, 75% infill (I wanted it a little more substantial), but it ended up taking 5 hours in reality. I normally print at 65mm/s, but dropped it to 55mm/s because I had a problem with my previous print and wanted this one to come out nicely.

How'd the reduced size work for you?

Better, but they still slid off. I'd cut a notch out for the lock to hold it in place, like the original has. Would be fairly simple to do. I went back to using the stock holder.

I printed the prior version, it came out well. This is my favorite design of this type of model I've seen on this site, as it is the easiest to build.

Thanks I try to make it simple, specially with stuff like this. :)

This looks nifty! Printing now. Any chance you made this with Solidworks, or have a STEP file handy?

Sorry, I'm bit of a modeling noob and just made it with tinkercad.

Top