Three 1:24 Windsor Chairs
Description
There's a short time-lapse here: flic.kr/p/bQpBB8
Instructions
*Under Dimension, set "Extra Restart Distance" to 0
*I print these in pairs, to give the print cooling time without waisting time. I prefer printing them in a line along the y axis instead of side by side to keep my second extruder from interfering.
*35mm/s works well for me, 40mm/s travel
*These are designed for printing at .25mm layer height. The bridges are carefully designed in and I can't guarantee this will print at other slicing heights.
*The file includes small discs under each chair leg. A raft is unnecessary.
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Absolutely stunning! I'd picked out a number of benchmark objects to test my calibrations on my mendel and this is one of the most beautiful (and most delicate to print too!)
Thank you for uploading this, as the finished objects have such a wow factor! Perfect for class demonstrations!
Slic3r cant slic this properly. You get up to the seat itself, but the spindles for the backs of the chairs are simply not present. Any ideas?
Fantastic work! Wish I could get my Replicator to achieve this. Every attempt at printing this ends in total failure. I tried the settings you listed but no luck.
Any chance you could upload your Gcode file? I would like to see if a known good Gcode file works on my machine. If it does then it means there is some other Skeinforge settng I need to tweak on mine.
I know these things are pushing the envelope but you've shown it can be done, now I want to b
e able to do it too!
Thx!
I sent you a message. I'm interested to hear exactly how the print is failing. I'd double check that your print-o-matic settings are at the defaults to start. You need really good adhesion in the first layer, so try raising the HBP temp to 110. Maybe re-level your print bed, and move your nozzle a bit closer to the build plate. Even though this design pushes the envelope, you should be able to print without much trouble on a Replicator. Are you using ABS? Natural or a color? MBI plastic or from somewhere else? Get in touch!
Great stuff, as always! Impressive how good those flimsy parts came out :)
Wonderful designs. I like that you are really pushing the envelope with these!
I think it adds to the challenge and fun to design things under those kinds of constraints, like single piece with no support :).
These are great! :)
Looks like a Nakashima Conoid Chair could join the party!
This is a great torture test for Ultimaker owners, the constant pressure in the filament tube makes tiny towers like these really tricky to print without stringing all over and crashing into the towers hard enough to snap them. :)
End result was way better than expected, though!
Wow, the tiny thin columns in the backs are impressive to print so well.
how is it able to print the stretchers and top rails without drooping? these are awesome and great for demonstrating the abilities of the machine
3D printers can do bridges pretty easily - there are lots of bridge test objects on thingiverse that span much longer distances. It's about balancing temperature and speed to get a line that doesn't droop (or does, if that's what you're after.) You need to design your object to follow two rules: 1. You can print in mid-air, but it needs to start and end on something in order to work. 2. Only bridge in one direction at a time. If you look carefully at the STL or time-lapse, you'll notice the front to back stretchers are printed first. On the next layer, the middle stretcher is added. Same idea for the bridging that starts the seat of the chair. Side to side is accomplished in one layer, front to back in the next.
The "hoop" on the sack back follows the 45 degree rule until the very top. In general, ellipses and circles will print okay. It can get a little sloppy near the end, but the shape starts bridging about at the point it would otherwise fail.
These chairs don't break the rules - they just exploit
them :)
License
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Hy! I printed the secound chair. I use Cura with Prusa mendel. 0.2 layer height from PLA 205°C. It's almost good but i think I will have to play with the setup parameters a littel bit. Good stuff!
Here is a picture:
http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/...