Loading
Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Red Devil quadcopter

by MechTronic, published

Red Devil quadcopter by MechTronic Apr 26, 2012

Description

a new quadcopter build specialy for crash-flyers like me.
I also printed and reworked the vampire of Swepet, a real great copter. But as I said, when you are a beginner like me, you keep on printing after each try.

Recent Comments

view all
I just revised the base for anyone with small print beds. It prints inside of a 95mm square so it is printrbot simple friendly. Much love to MechTronic for the original which is so easy to print.
In the US, I found the 15mm x 15mm x 1.5mm aluminum square tube at metricmetals.com, not too bad on cost. So I bought enough to make several.
I made this, and I'm very happy about it. I used 1000mm square tube instead of 800mm, still with a pitch of 600mm for the motor pods. My propeller are a bit bigger and I wanted to be safe so that even if two arms were to contact a wall, the propeller would still not be able to hit the wall, that's why on mine the arms stick out 200mm.

More from R/C Vehicles

view more

Liked By

view all

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag. Print Thing Tag

Instructions

Print all parts with 15% fill and double perimeter.
this is to cut weight.
The feet should be printed with support material on, because of the part that will go into the aluminium tube.
The 2x aluminium 15mm square tube L=800mm, wall thickness 1.5mm, are cut out half in the middle to fit into each other and form a cross.
I post it as a SolidWorks Part and pdf.
The motor pods are at a 600 mm pitch.
The arms will stick out 100mm to protect the props.

You need about 12 40mm M4 hex socket head cap screws and 16 nylock nuts and some M4 washers to protect the plastic.

The canopy for the Red Devil is a rendered SW-part (jpeg), because I did not yet printed it, I will wait with the release of the stl.

I have added a light version (approx. 50% less filament) of the body half, with more countersunk holes for hex nuts and slightly longer slotholes for the Lipo-straps I use.
I just revised the base for anyone with small print beds. It prints inside of a 95mm square so it is printrbot simple friendly. Much love to MechTronic for the original which is so easy to print.
In the US, I found the 15mm x 15mm x 1.5mm aluminum square tube at metricmetals.com, not too bad on cost. So I bought enough to make several.
I made this, and I'm very happy about it. I used 1000mm square tube instead of 800mm, still with a pitch of 600mm for the motor pods. My propeller are a bit bigger and I wanted to be safe so that even if two arms were to contact a wall, the propeller would still not be able to hit the wall, that's why on mine the arms stick out 200mm.
Turns out the towel bars at my home depot are 15.55mm.... I have one really nice center plate print, but will need to find smaller bars.
yimmy - in reply to JohnA
I had the same problem. I scaled this part to 102% and it fit. 103% might fit a bit better as mine was pretty tight @ 120%
I love your design. I too crashed my Vampire one to many times. I would like to try out your design but am having trouble finding the Aluminum tubing you call out. What is your source for 15mm aluminum tubing?
I bought it at the hardware store around the corner. but that is in the Netherlands.

i don't know on the internet because i did not look for it there.

P.S. i am going to update the copter later this week or the next.
I mounted different motors with other props without motor mounts.
because the old setup was a fraction to heavy for the motor/prop combination.
It flew, but not great, now it is!
It would be nice to have access to more metric parts in the US. I'll see how close I can get with materials from my local hardware store.

I look forward to seeing your updates.
May I ask you for the SolidWorks files for all frame parts? Would be really nice :)
I am a bit pressed for time this moment, but i will try to post them asap.
Found the time ? :)
Found time! sorry it was not asap.

The canopy is drawn topside down, but if you want to print it you have to rotate the stl 180 degrees.
What's the reason for the motor mount? The motors on the 'ArduCopter 3DR' for example are directly screwed on the aluminium tubes. This would reduce the weight of the frame.
The motor mount's weight is aprox.12gr. so you have a weight reduction of 48 gr.

You only have to drill 4 holes. When mounting the motors directly, you have to drill 8 smaller holes more precisely. And when you don't want to use long bolts you have to counter drill 8 larger holes in the underside of the alu.tubes.

It is just a choice you have to make.
Should this be printed in ABS or PLA ? Does it matter for the stenght of it?
Nothing is forbidden, ABS is stronger, lighter and cheaper then PLA, that's for sure.

but my preference lies with PLA, because it's not a oil based plastic.

And while printing no toxic fumes!!
Looks really good. What's the full weight of the quadcopter and what's the weight of the frame only?
the full weight of the frame is in my case 540 grams and complete incl. Lipo 1060 grams.

The weight of the frame is depending on the how you print the parts. The total weight also depending on a lot of variables.
Very nice. What size outrunner's, props and LiPo(s) are you using?
I use the same gear I used for the Vampire, 1200 Kv outrunners, 2200 mA 3S 20C Lipo, 8x4" props and 12A ESC's all connected to a Crius Multiwii Lite board.

with in between a crius power distr. board.
Hi, I am trying to replicate your build.

I think this motor is right for the copter. Am I right?

hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6410
As far as i can tell, it is ok.

for extended calculations see,

ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc_e.htm
Hi again.

I am thinking about how to make that little incision in the aluminium tubes.

I have an electrical disc cutter. I could, for example, cut the aluminium tube by half easily. But to make that little incision i might need to penetrate a cm into the tube and then make a 90º turn. I think that is quit
e difficult or impossible with a disc cutter.

Could you please explain what means and tools have you used to cut the tubes in that way?
I did the angular incisions with a small hacksaw, and the lengthwise incision with my dremel in combination with the cut off wheel No. 409, which is only 23mm in dia.

then you overshoot the angular incision by only 1 mm or so.

I made the initial cut a bit to small and filed it to the correct size by hand.
Top