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K8200 / 3DRAG Parallel Z-Axis Spindle Gear

by donboy, published

K8200 / 3DRAG Parallel Z-Axis Spindle Gear by donboy Jan 9, 2014

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23458Views 4961Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts
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Summary

--(dts.Text liegt bei)--
Next improvement for the Velleman K8200 3D-Printer, the Z-axis parallel spindle gear driven by the original motor.

When I had noticed that the extension-arm extremly wobbles when the printer quickly changes directions, i realized that the missing Z-guidance on right site is responsible for that. So, the main target is to reduce/eliminate this wobbling.

The upgrade was planned in concern to keep changes to the original as less as possible and to protect my/your purse ;-)) See printed result on the last image!

Updates:
-Add extension_arm_guide.dxf : you can create your guide with your own fitting for a different nut. (extrude to 16 mm)
-Add belt_tensioner_right.stl : if you have a larger belt or something else, use this with second copy of idler pulleys.

P.S.: All things were printed with the original hotend. No further upgrades are necessary to get the parts, but your printer should be set well ;-)

Instructions

The right steering track rod is replaced by a control rod. Keep in mind, that this new spindle is of the same typ like the left one!!
In my case this is a TR8x1,5 precise-control-rod for CNC-engines i replaced formerly but you can use a normal srew rod M8 like the original one.
The left side spindel torque is transferd to the right side by a T5 Belt over two idler pulleys. Replace the steering rod holder on the
right side with new holder keeping ball bearings for the right spindle. The only challange is to get a closed T5-belt in defined length between 1060 till 1090 millimeters (in my case 1075 mm - send me a short message, i will respond with the link to my supplier). You can remove the lower angle brackets of the top cross bar to avoid loss of printing height. Attention: Check out the new max printing height and update this value to your printing software/firmware!! (In my case i lost only 6 millimeters)
Furter informations can be found in the german section on RepRap-Forum (http://forums.reprap.org) - search for "K8200"

Time required to print the parts: ~3-4 h
Time required to assembly parts: ~2-3 h

Additional Needs:
400 mm spindle (control rod) with 8mm diameter +
1x spindle-nut (both like left side - see note above!)
11x M3x10 / 4x M5x10 screws wih nut,
2x M8x30 screw with 2x nuts
10x M8 washers
4x 608 ball bearings
1075 mm closed T5-belt 6mm

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Some Things to improve:

  • The extension arm guide does not allow the Nut to turn around the fixing axe definde by the two screws, better add some free space to the hexagon hole to prevent axe to get jammed.
  • The Teeth of the Pulleys are not deep enough. So the necessary high tension of the belt jammes the axe movement.
  • the Idler Pulley has a too low thickness. Was broken after 4 hours.
  • Spanner solution better made only by metal. I used a sequence of big washer, small washer, ball bearing, small washer, big wascher on the M8x15
  • right spindle must be shorter than left one I propos a 330 mm and 400 mm for the right.
  • the spindle stop might be obsolete
  • Some advice about new wire relocation is missing
May 15, 2015 - Modified May 15, 2015
donboy - in reply to SchwertAs

Thanks for your comment, indeed there are some improvements possible. But in your case, I suspect an over-tightened belt. It isn't necessary tightening the upper belt very strong. It is enough that the teeth do not skip, not more! The right spindle has only a function as a guidance...the hard work is already done by the left side! In my case this original construction works since 1 1/2 years without any problems

Thanks indeed this is a issue. But high tension at belt was needed to prevent belt from sliding. The teeth of the pulley do not have the planned steepness after printing. So I now constructed a pulley with more steepness at the teeth. I used 30 degree instead of 40 degree defined by the belt. Hope this prevents belt from sliding at lower spanner force.

where would I get the belt from. I have everything else but can't find a belt

HI Ullisees, i got mine from https://zahnriemen24.de/artikelno_Polyurethan-Zahnriemen_T5https://zahnriemen24.de/artike... , a german shop. Seems they´re shipping around europe. Greets

Donboy, Thats an awesome build and I am tempted to make a copy but I have a concern. Now the z axis arm is attached to the right side leadscrew does it tend to wobble against that leadscrew in the y axis?
Would you consider an adaptation where the extra leadscrew is taken to one side and the original guide remains in place to prevent y direction wobble. Maybe the t8 vs. m8 vs. spindle? makes the difference?

Hi Crashmatt, for sure! A TR-rod is much more better than a normal M-rod because TR-rods are made for this kind of function! You never will get a wobble-free Z-Axis if only one of your rods is slightly bent. Anyway you can use a more stable version of my right side mounting if you take a look at improvement made by ptesla http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:259722http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

velleman k8200 2nd z spindel
by ptesla

Do you have a link to your extruder gear cover?

I'm sorry, not yet because it was my own development and I saw already a couple of Covers here. I will provide it with the next upload of the GT2 modifications. Greetings Don

i clearly understood t81.5 is better then m81.25. As a normal boy i want everithing and sumulteniosly, but...My suppplier promised me 2 monthes for t8 delivery . so i'll start with m8. i wish you success with GT2 and waiting for results because i'm not saticfied with the X and Y quality too.
sorry for my not native english.
regards,

Thanks for very impressive design and realization. i hope i'll improve my k8200 based on yours ideas. i 'm going to use m8*1.25 rods can you upload one scad file to make changes for the standart nut. i m sure it helps to lots of people.
regards,

yes of course, but i please for little patience, because i´m working on an upgrade for the GT2 on Y axis.
My suggestion, do not use an M8 threaded rod but take a spindle rod. This gives much better results

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