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arcol.hu_hotend_v4.1.1

Hobbed bar, hyena v1.0

by laszlo, published

arcol.hu_hotend_v4.1.1
Hobbed bar, hyena v1.0 by laszlo May 1, 2012

Description

This is my take of a new hobbed bolt replacement :)

I call it the hyena, because hyenas have the strongest jaw of all mammals.

Recent Comments

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is it me or does the hobbled bolt look like a drive roller for a welder. mite be somthing to take a look at. usweldingsupply.com/miller-dirve-roll-spoolmate-199731.html
I think these are cut with real hobs rather than using a tap as a hob, though it still seems to be a worm gear hob rather than one with perpendicular teeth.

Laszlo also has an indiegogo running for gears more like what you are talking about: indiegogo.com/mini-hyena?a=549084
I think if you used a larger side tap (maybe 5/16" fine or 3/8" fine) on an even larger main bolt (7/16" or 1/2" or even 5/8") it would work well. Bigger tires spread the load, which would minimize the filament squish. This technique should work, but instead of a pulley on a fixed shaft, you would mount your bolt in a bearing fixture:

youtube.com/watch?v=Qb3bxCsfEHA

The trick would be to let the side tap cut in only say 2x the depth of the side tap threads. Then you are approaching the nice MK5 drive gear :)

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Instructions

For more informations please see the announcement: http://blog.arcol.hu/?p=1920

is it me or does the hobbled bolt look like a drive roller for a welder. mite be somthing to take a look at. usweldingsupply.com/miller-dirve-roll-spoolmate-199731.html
What tool do you use to cut the teeth? I'm looking at making some experimental drive gears in different shapes, and I'd love to be able to get teeth like these on them.
I think if you used a larger side tap (maybe 5/16" fine or 3/8" fine) on an even larger main bolt (7/16" or 1/2" or even 5/8") it would work well. Bigger tires spread the load, which would minimize the filament squish. This technique should work, but instead of a pulley on a fixed shaft, you would mount your bolt in a bearing fixture:

youtube.com/watch?v=Qb3bxCsfEHA

The trick would be to let the side tap cut in only say 2x the depth of the side tap threads. Then you are approaching the nice MK5 drive gear :)
I think these are cut with real hobs rather than using a tap as a hob, though it still seems to be a worm gear hob rather than one with perpendicular teeth.

Laszlo also has an indiegogo running for gears more like what you are talking about: indiegogo.com/mini-hyena?a=549084
Hi,

We (more the lathe shop) use a CNC lathe to make them. The tool was hand grinded from a lathe tool. It took enourmous time to get it right, and I liked the angle, and everything looked perfect.
It was not me who have grinded it, so I cant really refer you to any more specifics.

I then manufacture
d a huge batch (3 months of my salary) of these hyenas to be all of them the exact same. (I tested 2 for a month back in last november, before the batch is made).

I think with my current little selling rate, it will last these hyenas for at least 2 years:)
So Im not really worried about tool wearin
g.

Good luck with your tool making!

Best,
Laszlo
I like it and I use it :)

Just a suggestion: don't use a nylock nut, but two hard-tightened nuts instead.

PLA extrudes very well, but for some ABS I have it is necessary to clean the tooth very often :S
Im quite happy you like it:)

When nylock nut isn't enough, then there are usually other problems too.

I made an another small (but handy) thing instead of the two countertightened M8 nut, and that is M8 nut with M3 grubscrew:
http://wiki.arcol.hu/arcol-hu-m8-nut

I use it on the other end of the hobbed bar, it turned out re
ally handy.

Best,
Laszlo
http://arcol.hu
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