Z-level finetuner for Ultimaker
Description
this block makes adjusting the Z-level for the printbed endstop more accurate and stable
Instructions
The stepfile includes the complete assembly for reference!
-Remove Z-endstop
-put in 3 nylock M3 nuts in the block according to the drawing.
-put the switch in the block
-take out the left Z-rod
-drill a hole in the top, you should measure the exact location
-put in a M3 x 30 or longer with a washer, then add a washer + nylock nut from inside to fix the long screw in vertical direction. Tighten until it still turns but not moves up and down.
-screw the switch to the backplate with 2 M3 x 20+2 washers, until it is fixed, but still able to move up and down
-place left Z-rod back
-screw the long M3 in the block to finetune Z-height.
-optional: Once adjusted, tighten the screws on the backplate
-Remove Z-endstop
-put in 3 nylock M3 nuts in the block according to the drawing.
-put the switch in the block
-take out the left Z-rod
-drill a hole in the top, you should measure the exact location
-put in a M3 x 30 or longer with a washer, then add a washer + nylock nut from inside to fix the long screw in vertical direction. Tighten until it still turns but not moves up and down.
-screw the switch to the backplate with 2 M3 x 20+2 washers, until it is fixed, but still able to move up and down
-place left Z-rod back
-screw the long M3 in the block to finetune Z-height.
-optional: Once adjusted, tighten the screws on the backplate
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Roberto
on
December 28, 2012
said:
Hi, On my ultimaker the Z-guide metal bar is too close to the wall of the ultimaker to slide this component into place.
loosening up the side and using some force got it in.
maybe the both sliding guides could be somewhat shorter.
Anyhow, it works.
Setting the Z-Axis is now very easy !
Thanks Gijs
jgeerds
on
May 20, 2012
said:
I would also suggest to add a spring from a ball pen between the adjuster and the UM plywood, so make sure that adjusting it keeps it in the right spot.
License
Z-level finetuner for Ultimaker by Gijs is licensed under the Attribution - Creative Commons license.

This worked brilliantly for me with a couple of tweaks. I added a heavy spring around the top bolt and i snapped off the little legs so it can be fitted without removing the z-rod. The screws from the back that secure the switch are more than enough to keep it from twisting.