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Replicator 2X Cooling Fan Duct

by WorksBySolo, published

Replicator 2X Cooling Fan Duct by WorksBySolo Jan 17, 2014
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Summary

NEW AND IMPROVED!
Revision 4 has modified outlets which direct air flow in a more downward direction, and less toward the nozzles.

Also, STEP & IGES file formats (R4) are now posted.

Made to fit a third 40mm fan for active cooling. The reason I designed this is because I wanted to get air all around the print. Having air coming from just the front was not working well for my needs.

Check out some great before and after pictures here: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:75635

This design hugs a little closer to the extruder carriage than some other versions. This keeps it away from the front door hinge bolts!

Helpful for PLA and ABS prints.

Find the NEW Flash Forge version here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:259688

Instructions

This thing is designed to print at 0.2 layer height, 2 shells, and 15% fill, no raft or support. I had a little trouble with bridging over the ducts. My solution was to turn off bridging and change the solid layer angle to 90 degrees.

Be sure to clean out any "spaghetti" in the air ways.

The chrome fan guards need to be removed. The fan bolts are M3-10.

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I Printed a similar version but my problem was i was cooling the nozzle and not the printet part... so at the end the filament got stuck... do you have any advice to change that?

Would printing this in PLA be a problem? I just got a used Replicator 2x and still figuring the thing out.

Hey, I know this exact question has been asked before in the comments, but none of the links work anymore because they're so old. Could you post updated links on how to wire the fan into the mightyboard? Thanks.

Hi,

Check out this Thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:223995. He has instructions and some pictures. As I recall, there is only one place on the board where you can plug in the fan. NOTE: BE SURE THAT IT IS A 24V FAN.

-- SSW

Replicator 2X active cooling fan duct - front discharge

Hi,
very good idea!
I printed it and it's working well with ABS but I can not print well with the PLA.
I think it needs a lot more air; I would like to mount a tangential fan but I have to change the object.
I work with Inventor (or Solid Works). Could I have the source files please?
Thank you in advance.

claudio

Hi Claudio,

Yes, I can post the source files. However, they are on another workstation at the moment. I will get to them soon.

-- SSW

Looks like it'd fit the MBot Cube as well. Has anyone made one for a single extruder?

Just to say thank you for your design. Fits easily and simply. Used the latest version. I realize now how important this is ! Prints have so much improved in quality in the overhang in particular where I was always disappointed by my tests. GREAT and MUST HAVE !

Apr 4, 2015 - Modified Apr 4, 2015

It already fits the replicator 2. Not sure what the problem is but the dimensions of the carriage are the same, it just has better hardware, duel extruders, aluminum frame (the 2X) and better firmware ability. I can help you troubleshoot, it sounds like its either your slicer or your extruder hasn't been calibrated yet....

Its identical to the mBot GRID2 and the mBot is 1000 cheaper because they aren't selling their name. A duel is about 1200, or 975 when theyre on sale.

Im affiliated with mBot and can get you 15% off if you want one, I also repair and make upgrades for them. Send me an email if you want one with a discount, and if you like, you can use that discount to buy upgrades and increase speeds up to 200% (120mm/s standard extrusion moves and 160mm/s on dry travel) My email - [email protected]

Can anyone help me with enabling the third fan through the gcode? I dont know wjat gcode is or how it works

dead2master,

You will need to learn how to make custom profiles within Makerware. There are resources to teach you on the Makerbot web site.

Here: https://www.makerbot.com/support/new/04_Desktop/03_Using_Custom_Slicing_Profiles. Scroll to the bottom of that page and you will see "Fan Controls".

In the custom profile settings, there are options to turn on the extra fan.

Hope this helps,

SSW

What fan did you order and how did you connect it to the 2X, can you please make full instructions for the complete setup?

dead2master,

This should work: http://store.makerbot.com/parts-accessories/replicator-2-2x/cooling-fan-makerbot-replicator-2.html

As far as hook up, mine is just connected to a 9v wall-wart transformer. I plug it in when needed. If you look through others comments you can find some that connected right to the circuit board and control with G-Code. In either case you will need to make the wire longer.

Hope this helps.

SSW

What length bolts?

The instructions call for an M3-10. That means an M3 size screw with a 10mm length. Hope that helps.

Seems like a great idea, so I printed one and installed it with a 12v fan jury-rigged to a lab power supply. I expect to get a 24v fan from Jameco today, and have already added an extension cable up to the top. BUT ... I have run into a small problem in that the nozzles have sagged down to the point that they can interfere with the print, especially the purge fences on a dual color print. When I removed the duct, I discovered that the ends of the ducts have actually been chewed of a little by scraping them over the print. I suspect that the unsupported nozzle ends sag due to the amount of heat around them, thus becoming a hazard to anything on the build platform. I should also admit that this happened during a fine resolution (0.1 layer height) print. It may not be a problem at higher layer sizes. I looked at the Rep 2X and thought about adding son support braces son the sides, but there doesn't see3m to be very much clearance.
Anyone have an idea?

Hello,
I'm surprised that you've had these problems. Myself and others have had this duct on their machines for some time now, and you are the first to mention these issues.
Please give some more info: PLA or ABS? Did you follow the print specs I suggest under the "Instructions" tab? Did the duct mount properly when first installed? Correct position should leave about 2mm of clearance above the top print layer.
Thanks.

Well done. I'm using this fan to start with. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Orion-Fans/OD4010-24HB/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtmglTKXDHoWhczmPfqpfdFHdyyPzK2SBI%3dhttp://www.mouser.com/ProductD...
Seems to work pretty well so far.
I think the Replicator 2X's worst flaw is the absence of a proper mechanism for airflow at the nozzle. It seems like they just stuck an extra extruder on the Rep 2 leaving no room left for a fan. Thanks for uploading.

Works good. Thanks. But for me it's not very comfortable, becouse I don't see the nozels while printing :( My be you can construct the same, but with fiting behind the motors? It will give the same result but you will see the printing area. Thanks.

I use a led flashlight and it works but as you say it is harder to see the nozzle. Still the best cooling solution out there for 2X

This is awesome. How do you feel about modifying it to fit a regular Replicator 2? I have one with a broken filament fan, and MakerBot doesn't sell that part. I wouldn't mind replacing it with this style fan, which is readily available, and an additional piece. Either way, kudos on this awesome design!

You can order the exact fan that's is in the rep2 from http://www.digikey.comwww.digikey.com
Part number 603-1116-ND
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-845&y=-72&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=603-1116-NDhttp://www.digikey.com/product...
You will have to use the plug from the old fan, but it's the exact same fan. If you take your fan off the manufactures part numbers and voltage are the same.

Sounds interesting. I will have access to a REP2 in the near future. I can take a look.
In the meantime I will be posting my source files for others to make modifications. Soon.

are you all using this duct to print PLA on the R2X or using it to print ABS?

Good Question. The answer is, both.
From my experience, PLA seems
to benefit from the cooling duct operating continuously from the start,
no matter what the model looks like. Also keeping the door and top of the REP2X open.
Whereas
with ABS, I only turn on this duct for models that need it. And, NEVER
at the very beginning of a print, where the ABS needs to stay hot to
stick to the build plate.
Models with overhangs or thin parts show the most benefit of additional cooling.
ABS prints of models that are "blocky" forms do best WITHOUT THIS DUCT AT ALL (while keeping the REP2X tightly closed up). In fact, they may warp and separate from the build plate if cooled too much.
With experience and testing, most users can do a good job of predicting when this duct will be needed, or not.

Thanks for the quick reply! I printed this up and it printed quite well. I opened the top and door once it was near the top on the small delicate stuff to get more cooling on it and it printed great. I'm primarily interested in using this to print PLA on my R2X as my experience has shown that PLA REALLY likes to be cooled and set immediately once laid down.

Whats the polarity of that fan_cool connector inside rep 2x ?

I can answer it myself :) on the mightyboard rev g "fan_cool" connector the square solderpad is positive 24V

Amazing cooling effect. Cools so much that i have to close the lid now when printing otherwise the nozzles will get cold down.
I first got time out error on the extruder heating. My first print of this has some minor defects where the overhang is and it also touched the bed so i had to push the whole ting up when tightening the bolts.
I give this design 6 out of 5 stars :D
It also looks hitech ;)

Hello Kristofer,
Turn on this fan AFTER the first few layers have printed. No need to have it on during pre-heat.
Now use your first one to print a better second one! :)
Thanks for the 6 of 5! Best score ever!

"I Made One" :)
Look at the pictures
But when using the original makerbot fan pinout for extra fan, can i adjust the fan speed with the gcode?
I also noticed when starting the fan in mid print the layer adhesive disappeared, my model came out in 2 pieces :)
I guess it cold it down to much so the layer adhesion got bad.
Now i have the fan on from the beginning of the print and just use higher temps instead, works ok for me.
Also thanks for the tips about turning of the bridging option in makerware, now my bridges are perfect.

You can not control the speed of the fan with a replicator mightyboard using GCODE

Not sure if the speed can be controlled.

I guess you could design it so the air is pushed down just a little bit towards the layers instead of straight on the nozzles?
A small beveled edge/lip in the air exit holes so the flow is getting maybe 20 degree angle?
Just a thought :)

I'll consider this idea when I have some time to work more on it. Thanks!

Been using it for a couple of weeks now and it works good but you really need to guide the air down on the already printed layers. It cools the nossle to much. This is a must do mod :)
Thanks in advance
Kristofer

Kristofer,
I made revisions to guide the air more downward, like you have suggested. "R4"
Take a look!

Super! Will try it as soon as possible :)
Thanks for your work.

Maybe you can try my modified version: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298733http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
I need feedback, cause I don't have this printer at home.

Active Cooling Fan Duct for Replicator 2X

Hi. Awesome design cant wait to try it. can you please link me to the fan you recommend getting? would love to try this with some Ninjaflex filament i have coming soon.

="thingiverse-5878f53ba5fc1004aefca226d0a9fcf1:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/thingiverse-5878f53ba5fc1004aefca226d0a9fcf1/Omar3143
This is the fan from MakerBot. It is a 24v unit which makes it compatible with the REP2X electronics. http://store.makerbot.com/cooling-fan-makerbot-replicator-2http://store.makerbot.com/cool..., if you want to wire it up to turn on via g-code.

I use a 12v fan on mine, wired to a 9v transformer (old phone charger), and just plug it in when needed. 12v are more common.

awesome thanks i just bought a 24v fan but need a extension to be able reach and plug it into the the main board. do you know where i can find one. i want to wire it up to turn on via gcode.

If the connector is correct to plug into the main board, then I would cut the wire in the middle and splice in a piece to make it the right length. Be sure to use solder and shrink tubing. Make sure to keep polarity matched(black to black, red to red).

great idea. i will do that!

This is a brilliant design! Can't wait for your FF version. If you
need some more measurements just let me know. I was working on my own
active cooling duct version for Rep1 when I saw yours for Rep2X and
immediately stopped my work, cause your sense of the airflow makes my
current design look awful.

Thanks a TON SSW, I printed mine last night and I am waiting for some time to install it!

How is it working for you?
There is a new version. I modified the air outlets.

Really great that you did the flash forge version for us. Thanks a lot! Already made it but have some trouble using it. Combined with my fan it cools my nozzles more than the heater is able to reheat. I don't want to be ungrateful, but would you mind modifying the air outlets to have a bevel at the end to redirect the air to the tip of the nozzle and more to the printed material, than to the corpus of the nozzle? There is a lot of head room between the current outlet and the nozzle to add its modification to the current outlet. Solid works is not really good in reverse engineering stl files and so I failed on modifying it on my own.

Thanks for all of your efforts you put in this great active cooling duct!

thruit00,

I like your suggestions.

I won't have time in the near future to make those modifications myself, but I will upload a NURBS format immediately that you can import to SolidWorks. If you make successful changes please publish to Thingiverse.

Check the Thing Files later today. Please let me know if you are able to read them.

STEP files are posted!

can you repost the step files? I too would like to modify this to angle the air downwards. The model has too many facets for me to import right now into SW2013.

Hi apru,
If you read up the thread you'll see that the STEP files were originally for the Flash Forge version. I can also post STEPs for this model as well, but give me a couple days. I'm off site right now.

Hi,
It'll be great to have the STEP file.
I have some ideas I want to test ;-)

Great - thank you so much! Of courseI will publish my changes as soon as they seem to work on my machine.

Finally I finished my remix of your FlashForge version. Because of my lack of skills and conversation tools I had to draw it from scratch to apply the changes I wanted to address: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:295317http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Thank you so much for all of your work!

Active Cooling Fan Duct for Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge

A work in progress version of my enhancments is now available for Rep 2X: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298733http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Because I have no Replicator 2X I ask you to give feedback what I have to modify to finaly make it fit perfectly.

Active Cooling Fan Duct for Replicator 2X

can this be fitted to wanhao printer ? i guess i has the same head as the FlashForge

We are still working on the FFC adaptation now.

This is an amazing design, and I bow and thank you for creating this! Using your fan duct, my 2X can now finally deliver the print quality I was desiring. To give a comparison, when I first printed the duct (without any active cooling), I had to "hand hold" almost the entire print, pausing and resuming, holding down curling edges on overhangs, to even get it to print. After installing your design, I printed it again. No problems. It came out beautiful with no problems at all on the overhangs. I went for a rather "overkill" fan to use for this, a 7w 40 mm ducted turbine, but I'm only glad I did, this works beautifully!

So again, thanks a ton!

Qvist, can you provide a link to the fan you used? I am interested in overkill as well!

Hi dssguy1!

Sorry, hadn't seen your comment before now. Unfortunately I don't have a link to the exact fan, since i pulled it from an old rack server i had lying around, and googling any of the numbers on it yields no results :( It is akin to this one though:

http://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2749http://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/pro...

Not the exact same, but you get the idea. It sucks a lot of air :) And I have had great results with it, so I haven't wanted to change it to a smaller one, even though it is LOUD. If you can't find one for sale that suits your needs, let me know, I have a few more of them laying around, so I could possibly send you one.

Good to know that it's working well for you!

Awesome model amazing detail to it. What did you draw it in, must have taken so work. Trying to make one fit my flash forge will ducktape it if I have to :) did you have any problems printing the over hang for the bolt holes? Thanks for makeing a great model.

Designed in Rhino. We are working on a FF adaptation. Printed on our Rep2X with no overhang problems.

Are there any updates regarding a retrofit for the Flash Forge creator? I think if it can be done then it would be perfect for me to attach some vinyl tubing to for a "Bowden blower". So instead of the weak 40mm fan onboard it will be powered by a stationary squirrel cage blower, fed through tubing along the filament path, and finally expelled through this from all directions.

We are still working on the FFC adaptation.

How are you planning to connect the tubing to the duct?

I was thinking of printing a piece that fits the 40mm opening but is enclosed with a hose barb for some vinyl tubing.

Did you print this in ABS or PLA?

Mine is ABS. Seems to hold up to heat even when the fan is not used.

All, I think I'm going to leave my cooling fan powered separately so that I can turn it on when needed. Some ABS prints do not need it at all, and some only need it for overhang areas.

I have printed this out and installed on a 2X. I have used a standard makerbot 24v fan, but it hits the door hinges.
Is it me? Or has anyone else experienced this?

Hi Joe,

Mine is VERY close. Only about 1 mm from hitting.

Is your third fan the same thickness as the ones on your extruder?

What PCE is saying is could you modify the model slightly to accommodated the FlashForge Creator 3D Printer (dual extruder). This is a response from the flashforge Google group stated "if only the mounting screw holes were like 2mm lower :( I just printed it and the two outside mounting holes are about 2mm too tall, causing the duct to be below the nozzle heads."

This is a PERFECT fan duct model! Thank you for making it...my only issue is that I have a FlashForge Creator and the two outside mounting holes are about 2mm too "tall", causing the bottom duct part to be positioned below the nozzles. Could you modify the model perhaps to position the two outside mounting holes to be 2mm lower? I believe this would then be perfect for the FF!

Hello,
I'm happy that you like the design.
Just took a quick look at some photos of the FFC on the web. I see that it is very similar to the Rep2X. All four fan screws are the same height, so probably all need to be moved (?).
Questions for you:
--Are the original screws long enough? Please test one screw with the duct to see if it will work.
--How far back is the front of the fan compared to the front of the black plastic base below it? This is important. Please measure accurately.
If the changes are simple, then I will do what I can to make alterations for you.
Thank you.

Thanks for the reply. I've PM'd you with my contact info - please email me so that I can send you photos of how your current design fits onto the FlashForge.

But to answer your questions here:

  1. The original screws are not long enough as the fans sit 10.5mm away from the edge of the extruder base plate (I can send you photos of this).
  2. So it is 10.5mm between the fan and the edge of the black plastic base (what I call the "extruder base plate").

Please keep me informed if this ends up getting modified for the FF also. I would like to try this out.

Please explain your request. I'm not sure what you are asking.

I made one w/o a raft. I used some 20mm helper disks, but still had an issue with one side lifting, but not too bad. I like the design and have a 40mm x 10mm 24V fan on order.

Hi Jim,

Please keep in touch and let me know how that goes. Do you plan to connect to the fan port on the main board?

How do you power the 3rd fan?

Right now I'm using a 9 volt "wall wart" transformer, which I simply plug-in when needed. My third fan now is 12 volt. I plan to get a 24 volt from MakerBot and connect to the main board eventually. That way it can be controlled through the G-Code (I hope).

I can confirm that it can be controlled through the g-code http://www.thingiverse.com/make:53425http://www.thingiverse.com/mak...
Really eager to try your design. Looks very promising. Good work!

3FPD-Rep2X Cooling Duct-Rev2
by gewfy

Thanks. Let us know how it goes.

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