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Dualstrustion nozzle leveling Fixture

by einer_designs, published

Dualstrustion nozzle leveling Fixture by einer_designs May 14, 2012

Description

Allows you to level your dual nozzles on replicator

Recent Comments

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Your jig saved me a lot of grief. The process is a PITA, but without your jig, it would have been virtually impossible. Thanks!
Theoreticallly yeah, howeverI have found that when dealing with mass manufacturing and precise alignment must be made (especially with threaded part heights) it is best to have some way to adjust for manufacturing tolerances. If you do not build this into the design and plan on perfect manufacturering you with have issues (and high expences)
I should add that by no means do I think the thing on this page is anything less than awesome. Just throwing my $.02 in on another possilble way to address the leveling issue.

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Instructions

After disassembling my extrustion heads after a clog, I found that restoring the nozzles to the same height is next to impossible. Makerbot industries said the only way to level them is to return the assembly to them..Well I don't own anyting I can't fix. Where will I be if I am in a middle of a critical job!!

The main issue stems from the fact that the extruder bar is threaded where it accepts the nozzle(part #MP2590 if you have downloaded replicator part files). As well as having a nut at the top and bottom of the nozzle...This many threaded parts makes getting the level and orentation right next to impossible....I beleive that the top and bottom nuts will work as jam nuts and fix the extruder nozzle in place, if tightened properly, making the threaded bar redundant.

To fix this I machined a new mounting bar (MP 2590) with the holes NOT threaded (I used a 6 mm hole this left a little slop you might try smaller to get better alignment). You may just drill out you existing mounting bar (careful a replacment might be hard to get), I wanted to presserve mine in case I had to go back for some reason.

I still needed a reference to level the nozzles on my new mounting bar. I designed this simple fixture that allowed me to get them within .001 inch.

You simply adjust the top and bottom nuts until you get the nozzles level (use feeler guages to measure the gap between the nozzle and fixture). Make sure you really tighten the nuts against each other such that they do not losen.

You will have to recalibrate the nozzles offset. The calibration routine on your replicator should allow for this.

The only risk I see with this change is that the nuts ?may? loosen over many heat cycles, if the nuts are tightened enough this should not happen. So far I have not had a problem with this.
Your jig saved me a lot of grief. The process is a PITA, but without your jig, it would have been virtually impossible. Thanks!
thanks for showing how it is done on a makerbot, that will make it easier to make it work on an Ultimaker too.
We (Ultimaker users with experimental Dual head) are also working out on how to get the nozzles level.

One of the ideas is to print a level platform with the lowest head, and then put a piece of high grain sandpaper on it. And then sand the nozzles down to the same level, by moving the head over it. However, you would need to re-do this every time if you disassemble it, slowy destroying your nozzle
in the process.

Maybe Makerbot does it the same, and tells you that's why you cannot do it yourself.
Easiest way is to use a unified heaterblock. Drill some holes between the sections or a full channel to minimize the thermal transfer between sections. No more alignment problems. (Assuming the nozzles are the same height once tightened in).
what if your heateblock is not level? So that solves no problem, and you lose thermal isolation between the two.
Leveling a unified heaterblock is no different than leveling the entire hot end dualstrsion unit. And the majority of thermal isolation can be maintained by removing most of the material between the two. The biggest gain is a guaranteed uniformity of distance from the nozzle end to the heater block. If the nozzle holes are straight and the nozzles are uniform then there is zero calibration work to even up the nozzle heights. Leveling the heaterblock is simpler than two adjustable, independent heater blocks and can be managed via a single thumbscrew.

A hybrid approach might be to drill alignment holes through the separate heaterblocks and place parallel stainless steel or another rigid material with low thermal conductivity betwen them to achieve the same alignment results. And really the only reason why you'd need independent temperatures in
the heaterblocks is if you're using disparate materials. ABS/PLA doesn't seem very useful and multiple ABS wouldn't care. I can only think of the ABS/PVA combo that might necessitate the difference. Of couse the pid settings would need to be tweaked, but that should be easy enough.
Theoreticallly yeah, howeverI have found that when dealing with mass manufacturing and precise alignment must be made (especially with threaded part heights) it is best to have some way to adjust for manufacturing tolerances. If you do not build this into the design and plan on perfect manufacturering you with have issues (and high expences)
I should add that by no means do I think the thing on this page is anything less than awesome. Just throwing my $.02 in on another possilble way to address the leveling issue.
Indeed, Jelle raises a valid point.

See my dual head: daid2.mine.nu/~daid/IMG_20120426_202040.jpg
If the extruder tips would have been the same size, and the heater blocks, and the peek, and the alu plate was perfectly level. Then they should have been on the same height.
But this is not the case, as you can clearly see that
the left hotend is higher on the heater block, and that the alu plate is not level. Still, these heads where almost level (by pure luck)
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