Dualstrustion nozzle leveling Fixture

by einer_designs, published

Dualstrustion nozzle leveling Fixture by einer_designs May 14, 2012


Allows you to level your dual nozzles on replicator

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Your jig saved me a lot of grief. The process is a PITA, but without your jig, it would have been virtually impossible. Thanks!

Theoreticallly yeah, howeverI have found that when dealing with mass manufacturing and precise alignment must be made (especially with threaded part heights) it is best to have some way to adjust for manufacturing tolerances. If you do not build this into the design and plan on perfect manufacturering you with have issues (and high expences)

I should add that by no means do I think the thing on this page is anything less than awesome. Just throwing my $.02 in on another possilble way to address the leveling issue.

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After disassembling my extrustion heads after a clog, I found that restoring the nozzles to the same height is next to impossible. Makerbot industries said the only way to level them is to return the assembly to them..Well I don't own anyting I can't fix. Where will I be if I am in a middle of a critical job!!

The main issue stems from the fact that the extruder bar is threaded where it accepts the nozzle(part #MP2590 if you have downloaded replicator part files). As well as having a nut at the top and bottom of the nozzle...This many threaded parts makes getting the level and orentation right next to impossible....I beleive that the top and bottom nuts will work as jam nuts and fix the extruder nozzle in place, if tightened properly, making the threaded bar redundant.

To fix this I machined a new mounting bar (MP 2590) with the holes NOT threaded (I used a 6 mm hole this left a little slop you might try smaller to get better alignment). You may just drill out you existing mounting bar (careful a replacment might be hard to get), I wanted to presserve mine in case I had to go back for some reason.

I still needed a reference to level the nozzles on my new mounting bar. I designed this simple fixture that allowed me to get them within .001 inch.

You simply adjust the top and bottom nuts until you get the nozzles level (use feeler guages to measure the gap between the nozzle and fixture). Make sure you really tighten the nuts against each other such that they do not losen.

You will have to recalibrate the nozzles offset. The calibration routine on your replicator should allow for this.

The only risk I see with this change is that the nuts ?may? loosen over many heat cycles, if the nuts are tightened enough this should not happen. So far I have not had a problem with this.


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bottleworks on Jan 22, 2013 said:

Your jig saved me a lot of grief. The process is a PITA, but without your jig, it would have been virtually impossible. Thanks!

JelleAtProtospace on May 14, 2012 said:

thanks for showing how it is done on a makerbot, that will make it easier to make it work on an Ultimaker too.

Daid on May 14, 2012 said:

We (Ultimaker users with experimental Dual head) are also working out on how to get the nozzles level.

One of the ideas is to print a level platform with the lowest head, and then put a piece of high grain sandpaper on it. And then sand the nozzles down to the same level, by moving the head over it. However, you would need to re-do this every time if you disassemble it, slowy destroying your nozzle
in the process.

Maybe Makerbot does it the same, and tells you that's why you cannot do it yourself.

rustedrobot on May 14, 2012 said:

Easiest way is to use a unified heaterblock. Drill some holes between the sections or a full channel to minimize the thermal transfer between sections. No more alignment problems. (Assuming the nozzles are the same height once tightened in).