Arrow Cutter Thingy
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Published on May 17, 2012
Description
Based on a pencil sharpener!
It creates a rounded shaft, useful for making Arrows and dowels . There are adjustment screws for the 32mm chisel (needed) so you can make bigger or smaller arrows. See Video of it in action here youtube.com/watch?v=tL0jMKL5U5Q
Not sure how many arrows this will cut before the plastic wares away with friction.
Thinking about it afterwards the captive nuts could have been better placed and a little less tight, anybody want to improve on this design please do. The small output tube is the diameter of the cut arrow. The larger hole is tapered towards the output tube. The blade must be position at the top height of the output tube so when the wood reaches the tube it should already be cut to fit.
The dogleg is for placing into a vice or screwing to the side of a workbench
It creates a rounded shaft, useful for making Arrows and dowels . There are adjustment screws for the 32mm chisel (needed) so you can make bigger or smaller arrows. See Video of it in action here youtube.com/watch?v=tL0jMKL5U5Q
Not sure how many arrows this will cut before the plastic wares away with friction.
Thinking about it afterwards the captive nuts could have been better placed and a little less tight, anybody want to improve on this design please do. The small output tube is the diameter of the cut arrow. The larger hole is tapered towards the output tube. The blade must be position at the top height of the output tube so when the wood reaches the tube it should already be cut to fit.
The dogleg is for placing into a vice or screwing to the side of a workbench
Instructions
Print in ABS with three shells and 50% infill (this needs to be a workhorse) have not tried PLA and sure it would not work well due to friction heat.
You will need 2 * 50mm m4 bolts and 3 * 16mm m4 bolts that are used for adjusting the blade position. You may need to cut the 50s down if your chisel isn't very fat.
Clamp the chisel down using the bolts, position the blade so that about 1mm is over the tapered ledge.
Clamp it or screw to the side of a workbench using the provided holes on the dogleg.
Cut your stock wood down to 12mm or 10mm square and trim off both the ends by hand using the Arrow Thingy so that you have a nice starting angle when using the drill
Attach one end of the wood stock to a hand drill and keeping the wood in the center run the drill fast,and push through the hole. Your first run will burn off some plastic, don't worry it's just finding itself :)
Make sure you keep the stock in the center of the large tapered input hole as you push the wood through.
You will need 2 * 50mm m4 bolts and 3 * 16mm m4 bolts that are used for adjusting the blade position. You may need to cut the 50s down if your chisel isn't very fat.
Clamp the chisel down using the bolts, position the blade so that about 1mm is over the tapered ledge.
Clamp it or screw to the side of a workbench using the provided holes on the dogleg.
Cut your stock wood down to 12mm or 10mm square and trim off both the ends by hand using the Arrow Thingy so that you have a nice starting angle when using the drill
Attach one end of the wood stock to a hand drill and keeping the wood in the center run the drill fast,and push through the hole. Your first run will burn off some plastic, don't worry it's just finding itself :)
Make sure you keep the stock in the center of the large tapered input hole as you push the wood through.
License
Arrow Cutter Thingy by hexitex is licensed under the Attribution - Non-Commercial - Creative Commons license.
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Yep, doweling jig. It might be faster to make in wood but that doesn't mean this isn't cool. Great job.