by AlexEnglish, published
This pattern has many benefits, including higher density of crop grown per square foot, the plants themselves do a better job of choking out weeds, the tighter foliage shades the ground which keeps it cooler and moister, requiring less watering.
Here you can see how the spacing works in the complex case of companion planting multiple things together, but it also applies to the simpler case of a single crop, for which these tools were designed: organic.kysu.edu/CompanionSpacing.shtml
For more information about the method, and a natural, holistic gardening method, check out this book: How to Grow More Vegetables by John Jeavons - amazon.com/gp/product/B001U6KIPA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=engfamfar-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001U6KIPA
In the photos, you can see a top-down view of a patch of radishes planted with this sort of spacing (2 inch), and a couple of radishes just harvested from that patch. You can see how dense, but evenly spaced the plants are (save for one here and there that didn't come up).
You can also find a little bit more of a write-up with some info on a couple other printable garden accessories here: protoparadigm.com/2012/05/what-to-do-with-a-3d-printer-make-garden-tools/
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I'm also wondering if it is possible to emboss the sizes onto these standard sizes you've made? I saw somewhere that there is an add on in Autoscad that lets you write on parts...
I'm wondering if a 1 inch disk (snowshoe) could be added to the part that pokes into the ground to allow for automatic depth control? A lot of tightly spaced seeds tend to be 1/4 deep, so that could be one standard, but if it were a variable, then it could be adjusted in Autoscad. I know that would cause a lot of supports if it were made in one piece, but if the struts were made with a taper, and then disks were printed separately with various sized holes in the middle depending on the depth needed, they could be slipped on the struts and they would only goes so far up, giving you the depth. The disks could even have the depth embossed on them so you wouldn't have to slip them on and off to find out if they were the right ones. I'm new to this and I don't know how to make those changes, otherwise I'd do that myself. I do like what you've made though, and being an avid gardener, I'll be making some of these ones - I recognize their value :)
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Print and use.
To use these tools, press into the soil to make the holes, then move the tool so that two of the prongs are in two of the existing holes, and press down to make the third whole. After the first time, each time you use it, you'll only be making one new hole, but doing this ensures you'll get a uniform spacing pattern. After you've made the holes, drop in your seeds and lightly brush soil in over the holes with your hand.
You'll have to look on your seed packet (or in the charts in the book linked to in the description) to see how the plants should be spaced. It depends on the habit of the plant, but generally speaking, you'll want to space your seeds a little further apart than the in-row spacing listed on a seed packet. For root vegetables like carrots, radishes, turnips, etc., or small leafy plants like lettuce, you may be able to use the in-row spacing.
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