LM8/LM10 Y-Carriage for Mendelmax
Description
They come in LM8UU or LM10UU variaties. Choose the one your want and remember to print the corresponding spacers.
I uses the LM10x3 version with Misumi LMU-MX10 self lubricating bearings.
More pictures here: goo.gl/JRg97
Instructions
If you have trouble slicing the STLs cleanly, you may want to run them through netfabb.
10mm rod mount and clamp are here thingiverse.com/thing:23898
If you are printing the carriage in PLA, I would strongly suggest that you print the spacers in ABS. Especially if your HBP is close to them.
IMPORTANT NOTE
lm8x3, lm8x4, lm10x3 and lm10x4 has a smooth rod center to center distance of 98.4mm. This is what i get by measuring with a caliber. This is what i use, YMMV.
lm8x3-100, lm8x4-100, lm10x3-100 and lm10x4-100 has the default mendelmax smooth rod center distance of 100mm.
I find that the best way to get a butter smooth Y-stage is to install the Y rods into the MM body first (you need the Y rod mounts and clamps), measure the actual distance between the smooth rods, then print your Y-carriage with that exact distance.
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Hi,
I'm just getting started with a MM build. What's the deciding factor between using three or four bearings?
Thanks.
i love this design, could you make one that uses the 16mm OD and 8mm ID bronze bushings. I have tried to do it in scad and just can't seem to get it. Thank you
I tried one of these, when I installed the screw on the lm8UU bearing, the holder broke off. any way to beef these up a bit?
if they break off easily, then you need to check 2 things, 1.) nozzle temp. Try up your nozzle temp by 10C and see how it goes, 2.) check your E calibration and filament diameter measurement again, I did a test and found that a 3% difference in filament diameter(1.75 but actual measured dia is 1.70) result in very weak parts no matter how high i set the temperature to.
I noticed that the spacing of the smooth shafts for the lm8x4.stl are 98.4mm instead of 100mm. Is there a reason for this? I'm a bit of a newb at SCAD and couldn't figure out how to change the rod spacing so I tweaked it in SketchUp. Nice update though!
Because that is what i got when i measure the distances between the rods with a caliper.
It doesn't have anything to do with the calibration of my printer, I confirm that by printing a 25mm test cube, it came out off by less than .05mm.
So i would suggest you print the y rod mount first, mount the rods onto the MM body and measure the actual distance between them. Then adjust the distances to make them fit perfectly. this way, you wlll get a butter smooth Y stage.
I have a hunch that if you are slicing with Slic3r, you will en
d up with something similar to mine.
Please do report back about the measured distance between your Y rods.
License
More from tommyc
More from 3D Printer Parts
What hardware is recommended for pinch bolts on this carriage?