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Victorian Hurricane Lamp

by loubie, published

Victorian Hurricane Lamp by loubie Feb 1, 2014

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Summary

I have designed a 3D model of a Victorian style hurricane lamp. It holds a small battery-powered tea light.

It comes in a number of pieces and screws together. Depending on which pieces you use, the lamp can be tall (26cm if you use all the pieces) or shorter with a combination as shown in the gallery. Tea lights used should not exceed 4cm in diameter.
This is part of an experiment for myself to show that Blender can be used for models that require some precision work. The threads were built in OpenSCAD using the library by aubenc(http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8796), but the assembly and design was done in Blender alone,importing the threads when needed. This model was also designed to push my printers further regarding clarity and overhang. None of the pieces require support to print.

NOTICE: I finally got around to uploading the swirly base with a whole load less geometry. This should make it easier to work with:

swirling_base_decimated.stl

this is now just over 5mb.

Also, a user requested a version with a 7mm hole down the middle. This has been uploaded too. Sorry for the delay.Been a bit busy xx

Instructions

PRINTING

The components for this model will print without support. As the model is quite large, I recommend you print with a low infill. The models shown in my gallery were printed with .1 and .15 infill.

LAMPSHADE

The lampshade is a solid model. You will need to print this with 0 infill and no top or bottom layers. This is a far more efficient method than me providing a hollowed out model and allows you to decide how many perimeters you want to use. The lampshade is designed to fit snugly around the light holder, so may require a little twisting to get in place.

However, if you don't want to mess with this, fellow Thingiverse user:

http://www.thingiverse.com/shiuan/

made a hollowed out version for download:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:840538

Thank you!

ASSEMBLY

How it fits together is demonstrated in the gallery. You will need to use the light holder with the castle regardless of whether you print and use the shade, otherwise your light will not be held securely.
Please do not use anything more powerful than an LED tea light in this model! Please.

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Hi, I am a fan of your beautiful lamp. I'm trying to create an electrified version, and I redesigned all parts except SwirlingBase too hard for my level. You can have a version of this part in 123 format (for 123Ddesign) or some advice on how to draw?
Thanks anyway and congratulations for your design.

[email protected]

Actually, I have uploaded a decimated version of the swirling base which should help you (now under 5mb). I also have one with e 7mm diameter hole added in as well. This was a request from another but may suit you too.

Thanks

thanks a lot, I began studying blender: very interesting

Mar 7, 2016 - Modified Mar 7, 2016
loubie - in reply to regolo62

The model was created in Blender and I do not have a 123Design version of the file. Basically, to draw this, you need to:

1) Sketch your basic shape then extrude it to the height required.
2) Manually altered the geometry to increase the width in places to get the shape required.
3) Apply a deform (twist) modifier to twist the shape.

As I have never used 123Design I have no idea how this would be achieved in that application.

Look at the makes and derivations. Quite a few other people have already successfully managed to do what I believe you are trying to achieve - maybe they could help you? Good luck!

What color filament did you use for the green lamp twist base? It looks awesome.

Feb 29, 2016 - Modified Feb 29, 2016
loubie - in reply to bootsb1980

It's green and it came from China. I bought it about 4 years ago. I believe the nice variation in the colours is down to inconsistent dye and is coincidental rather than deliberate. It is a pretty effect though, I agree.

Sorry I can't tell you any more than that

Mar 2, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016
bootsb1980 - in reply to loubie

Any chance I can get you to run a 7mm cylinder hole through the swirling base? TinkerCad won't let me upload anything <25Mb and I want to run a wire through that, all other parts are small enough.

I missed your message and realize it's probably too late now, but I have uploaded your changed file as requested (with 7mm diameter hole). There is also another decimated version of the swirling base which doesn't have the hole.

I'm sorry - things have been busy here:-)

i love the lamp looks nice. i am not sure if mine will do the tiny crown type points around the top of the base. wish they were a bit more sturdy to print. example i can't print the eiffel tower either. but i may give this a go and see , if they don't turn out i can always trim them off.

I think there are a couple of examples in the "makes" of this model, where users have done precisely that. I think it looks just as good imho.

Good luck with the print.

thanks , so i saw a guy did a hollow version of the shade it my question is how much total filament will i use on the whole lamp like it is here? in meters not grams please, thanks

How much filament this model will use is going to depend on how you've set your slicing profile i.e layer height, infill etc... so I can't tell you:-) Your printing software will tell you how much filament is required after you have sliced the model, so I suggest you slice all the pieces as appropriate and calculate the total from those results.

I have been working on printing this and I have a one problem that I just can't seem to get around. The castle middle has threads on top, which measure out to 29.6mm on my print, while the light holder threaded section is only 27.9mm. I tried to scale up the light holder to thread on, but then the outside is to large to fit inside the top shade.

Am I missing something? This is a great looking model and I really want it to work.

loubie - in reply to Sytar

It's possible that you are over extruding, so ensure you measure the diameter of your filament carefully - I always set up separate profiles for each filament I own to help avoid this. As you have already printed yours out, you could sand and lightly oil the threads which should help them fit together.

loll Did anyone notice the music the printer makes while printing the lamp shade??? almost like there is a hidden song in this print lol

i hear ya my printer seems to sing daily lol. it is true i hear alot of melodies when it is running. i've seen music boxes made here im sure someone could make as pattern that would infact play a tune. there are some brilliant minds here. if someone figures it out i will surley print it lol.

I'm so gonna print that, it's freaking amazing!

You can also use some oil or engine assembly lube (aka Melling Mell-Lube) on the threads - will make them much easier to assemble. I am sure other high viscosity oils or grease would work too.

Does anyone know how to "The lampshade is a solid model. You will need to print this with 0 infill and no top or bottom layers." With the MakerBot Desktop slicer?

Victorian Hurricane Lamp-Lampshade Modify
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:840538

Victorian Hurricane Lamp-Lampshade Modify
by shiuan
May 21, 2015 - Modified May 21, 2015
loubie - in reply to shiuan

:-) I'll update my info so people know where to find this..

Beautiful piece , I ended printing the lamp it just misses the top part , but I had issues with the screws , both came really good but were unable to screw together , just happened to me? or maybe the tollerance is too small?

May 19, 2015 - Modified May 19, 2015

I am glad you enjoy the model and thank you for the compliments. I am sorry you are having problems though.

The the tolerance should be fine. However, if you are over extruding at all, then you will have problems. I always measure the diameter of my filament using calipers (I don't trust what the manufacturers say) and set up different profiles in my slicer to reflect this. However, as you have already printed something, then you could try sanding the threads - which I would recommend anyway.

I found a slightly easier way and it just seems to work for me. Grab a roll and do a thin walled print using 1.0 as your extrusion multiplier (this is all assuming you already have dialed in the proper e-steps) and however far off you are is what you will use as your extrusion multiplier. I do this on every roll and mark on the roll what multiplier to use for that roll. Say 0.4mm thin wall for a 0.35mm nozzle and out comes 0.42 on the top 3 layers of a thin wall then 0.4/0.42=0.9523 and I use that as my extrusion multiplier. Do it one more time and repeat the math then write it down on the roll. I used to do the caliper method but it never was as accurate for me.

I just removed the screws and glued them together

BTW, I'd love to see some pictures of your print..

Gorgeous! May I ask if you got that lovely mottling relief on the swirling base in Blender? A noise displacement or something?

Thanks. The effect was unintentional. This is one of my older models and I'd not been using Blender for that long when I built it.

What happened was that I applied a subsurface modifier to the object and then afterwards a simple deform. The result was this interesting artifact, which I assume was caused by twisting an object with lots of geometry. But don't know. I think it's pretty so I decided to leave it in:-)

Hooray for happy accidents!

I guess the shade could be printed with one perimeter using the 'spiral vase' setting in slic3r. I've used that before for 'transparent' light shades on my Malibu path lamps.

Yes - that would work.

Is there no end to your skills?

Heh! I can't bake to save my life....

Nicely done as always! :)

Thank you very much!

you have skills!

Cheers!

Jan 28, 2015 - Modified Jan 28, 2015

After having downloaded this a couple months ago, and after already built the swirling base and am in the midst of building the base, I am looking at the lampshade itself and wondering how that part works. The 3D model is solid on the bottom, yet in order for the tea lamp to fit inside it, it would need a cavity there, wouldn't it? What am I missing? In fact, the 3D model does not match the picture. The pictures show the lampshade open at the top too. The 3D model is solid. I may end up just designing something to fit for the lampshade.

The lampshade is a solid model because it has far less geometry than a hollowed model and allows for quicker slicking. You will need to adjust your slicer settings to have 0 infill and no top or bottom layers.

Thank you so much! That explains it. Will it build as a spiral vase, or does it need more than one perimeter?

FYI, in the lamp shade, one of the chamfers has a hole in the model.

You can see it in slicer and it translates to the printed part.

Which slicer did you use and which version?

Current Repetier with Slic3r 1.1.7

Dec 26, 2014 - Modified Feb 26, 2015
loubie - in reply to DeviantBee

I've noticed issues with the later versions of Slic3r slicing thin parts on models - it misses them out. I do believe that my model is manifold. I'll have a look at improving wall thickness when I get home in a couple of weeks. In the meantime, why not try another slicer?

Edit: The lampshade is a solid model - not sure what I was going on about in the comment above. Teach me to answer questions on Boxing Day:-)

This comment has been deleted.

Looks great but needs some adjustments. The base thread is too long and bottoms out in the bottom globe and the crearance for the threads could be increased for a better fit up. Printed base and mid section with brass . Used Trans Blue for the bottom globe with 10 % infill (for looks) and natural for the top globe and light holder. All PLA Total print time for all parts was just over 19 hrs.

Thanks for your feedback. It's my first 'fit together' model (other than the flowers for my coasters) so I appreciate all
comments. So, what did you do to rectify the issue with thread length
and clearance. I am guessing thread length would be easy enough to fix
by cutting the model in something like MeshLab. But what about the
other issue?

Quick - in reply to loubie

The threaded base that was too long, was found out after printing, so it was cut with a band saw. For the threads being too tight, I used sand paper and sanded them down about 1/2 way. Again, this was found out after printing. The male threads were easy and the female threads a bit harder. The female threads did not get sanded as much as the male threads. For something like this type of fit up, a rounded thread works better. Also if the threads are tight, adding some water or veg oil to the threads and working the threads back and forth help, when threading together.

loubie - in reply to Quick

I shall check my files this weekend with your comments in mind and upload new versions if required. Sorry for any inconvenience and I hope you still enjoy the model:-)

This is a beautiful, how do you recommend slicing it?

This is fantastic! Thank you for sharing and please keep contributing!

Thank you, I am glad you like it.

Wooow... this is a ridiculously beautiful piece. High marks!

Thank you- much appreciated!

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