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Adafruit Pi Box - Enclosure for Raspberry Pi® Computers

by adafruit, published

Adafruit Pi Box - Enclosure for Raspberry Pi® Computers by adafruit Jun 7, 2012

Description

Adafruit Pi Box - Enclosure for Raspberry Pi® Computers

http://www.adafruit.com/products/859

Adafruit invests time and resources providing this open source design, please support Adafruit and open-source hardware by purchasing products from Adafruit!

Creative Commons Attribution, Share-Alike

Keep your Raspberry Pi® computer safe and sound in this lovely clear acrylic enclosure. We designed this case to be beautiful, easy to assemble and perfect for any use (but especially for those who want to tinker!)

The case comes as 6 pieces that snap together, made of crystal-clear acrylic. This ingenious design has no screws or standoffs and there are cute little feet cut into the sides so that it stands up above your desk. There are engraved labels on all the connector slots. You can use all of the connectors on the edges of the Pi: HDMI, Audio, Video, SD slot, micro USB power, Ethernet and the two USB ports. We also added a slot so that you can connect a 26-pin IDC cable to the GPIO breakout pins on the Pi and pass it though the case. For more advanced hacking, the enclosure is designed so that you can remove the top piece and plug any sort of cables you wish into the breakouts in the middle. The case is airy enough that no additional vents or cooling is required - we tested the enclosed Pi over a 24 hour period at full load with no significant increase in temperature.

Complete assembly instructions available at Adafruit: http://wiki.ladyada.net/products/pi-box

All text above must be included in any redistribution.

If you sell these keep the text as is on the files and do not use "Adafruit" as the product name, customers will be confused!

Recent Comments

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The small piece from the center of the cutout fits snugly under one end of the pi, to level it.
Cut at TechShop in Austin (Round Rock) with Clear Acrylic from Inventables (23876-11) which is 0.118in thick.  Came out great and the claw works well.
I just cut this using a Full Spectrum hobby laser and it worked great! Thank you Adafruit!!!

Here's what I did:
1) Saved the SVG file and opened it with Inkscape.
2) Scaled the design up by 125% as gregrob suggested (thanks!).
3) "Printed" to RetinaEngrave3d (software provided by FSLaser). Okay, this was actually two steps. I sent the box design to RetinaEngrave3d as a vector cutting job and the text from the design as a raster engrave job.
4) Set job up as "Raster then Vector", configured power/speed for my acrylic and away it went!

My Raspberry Pi is now snugly inside its new home. Good fit and great no-tool design!

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Instructions

Instructions Complete assembly instructions available at Adafruit: http://learn.adafruit.com/pi-box

Cut at TechShop in Austin (Round Rock) with Clear Acrylic from Inventables (23876-11) which is 0.118in thick.  Came out great and the claw works well.
I just cut this using a Full Spectrum hobby laser and it worked great! Thank you Adafruit!!!

Here's what I did:
1) Saved the SVG file and opened it with Inkscape.
2) Scaled the design up by 125% as gregrob suggested (thanks!).
3) "Printed" to RetinaEngrave3d (software provided by FSLaser). Okay, this was actually two steps. I sent the box design to RetinaEngrave3d as a vector cutting job and the text from the design as a raster engrave job.
4) Set job up as "Raster then Vector", configured power/speed for my acrylic and away it went!

My Raspberry Pi is now snugly inside its new home. Good fit and great no-tool design!
Perfect case! They are sold on eBay for about 11
€ ($15) without any tribute to Adafruit :(

I only have one question: Why has the Ethernet a double cut-out?
The small piece from the center of the cutout fits snugly under one end of the pi, to level it.
I made one!

And I had a great idea: mage the entire case from black acrylic (or in my case painted wood) and only the top cover from clear acrylic. With this combination you've got the great black design with a window to see the inner workings! 8-)
The scale issue on the SVG file seems to come from it being in pixels not mm, and inkscape assume 300 dpi in converting it to mm. It seems to me the source was 240 dpi. Thus two things to do:

1) Under File -
&
gt; Document Properties -
&
gt; Page, set the default units to mm to remove any future confusion.

2) Ctrl-A to select all, Ctrl-Shift-M for transform, and under the scale tab scale the objects by 125% (240 dpi * 1.25 = 300dpi). This seems to me to give the correct size, but I have not cut it yet to confirm 100% as I do not have easy access to a cutter.
I really liked the look of this case, so I bought one from Adafruit. However, I had problems when assembling it, and might suggest a couple improvements. I might also add that I was *very* careful when assembling the case.

The first problem I had was that the "dragon claws" did not fully grasp the end piece. The depth of the "dragon claw" needs to be a little wider to fit around the thickness of the acrylic end pieces. As it exists, the very light bump on the end piece makes it fall off. Since it's part of the way t
he case stays together, I'd say this is an important issue. This might have been fixed by a little careful filing, but seems useless due to problem #2 below.

The second problem I encountered occurred when I was trying to figure out why the end pieces were not clipping in. I noticed a small piece o
f acrylic on my work space which did not look like a cut out. I then realized that 3 out of the 4 non-flexible tabs had broken off! :'( One end piece will just pop off since both its non-flexible tabs broke off and the dragon claw tabs don't grasp the piece. The other side is a little better but i
s still not as secure as it should be and looks.

It would seem like the clipping tabs need a bit more design attention, perhaps a little more material left so they aren't as easily broken. I haven't done much with designing acrylic, laser-cut structures so perhaps I'm missing something.

This case
is so beautiful, I would really like to see it improve and succeed! :)

Positive features: I think the spacer under the Ethernet port is a great idea and worked pretty well. (Saves material too since it's cut out from the Ethernet cutout waste.) I also like that the board fits tightly inside with no
wiggle room. Another plus is that the case can be used with the top on or off, while using the GPIO pins and the cutouts for the connectors seem to line up pretty well.

Keep up the good work Adafruit!
Can anyone suggest the preferred thickness of acrylic to use with this?

Thanks
-Joe
It was designed to be made with 1/8" (0.125") but all I could find at my hardware store was 0.093". It was a little loose but it worked. I tweaked the slot sizes to make it a bit tighter and uploaded that as a derivative.
Thanks CaseyB.
SUCCESS!! I loaded it into Illustrator and then exported as a PDF. When I import that PDF into Inkscape it has the right sizes and I can save it as an SVG from there.
Hey, can you please upload the design files you used? The files with the R-Pi logo on top. Awesome design!
Echo, I had the same problem, so I resized, and made a derivitive. My derivitive is a tad bit too large, but with cables connected is a snug fit. I imagine Adafruit will fix this issue shortly. They are awesome. :-P
I downloaded the SVG and loaded into Inkscape. Then I saved it as a PDF and cut it on my Epilog Zing 24 but it was too small. I think it's because Inkscape imported the DPI incorrectly. When I got to work today and opened it in Illustrator it gives me a much different size. Not sure why.
I had the same issue when I tried to make it as well. I really should have read the comments first.
@CaseyB,

Download the DXF file and select open in corel drawn. Then select metric as the unit and un-check auto reduce nodes (if its checked of course). This should be the correct sizes.

It should be close.... Laser... Check edit.. etc... if needed..

ril3y
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