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K1-Rap Printer

by Entropy85, published

K1-Rap Printer by Entropy85 Jun 8, 2012
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Summary

The K1-Rap is a derivative of Dkennel's Pocket Printer. I loved the design and idea of the Pocket Printer but was unable to get the "slides" working correctly. Since I had 8mm smooth rods and lm8uu bearings on my Prusa, I decided to cannibalize it and start a new design based on the Pocket Printers basic shape.

Check out: www.entropyprojects.blogspot.com for the full details.

I'll update this as I change things.

Edit:
Due to popular demand, I changed the name to include the build number. Hopefully this clears things up.

Instructions

Full instructions and BOM to come once I stop making changes. STL's are in the Zip Folder.

You'll also need the pocket printer's xymotor mount, RAMPS holder (if needed), and Prusa's lm8uu Y bearing holder.

Parts needed:

2 - Zmount
6 - barendbracket
1- Zslide 2L
1- Zslide 2R
1- xmotor
1- xidler
1- yendbracket
1-yendbracket2
2-ySlide
1-hotendmount (this may not work for everyone, if you need a different hole spacing let me know)
1-beltbracket
3-endstop

Vitamins:
Aluminum Extrusions:
Z Cantilever = 180mm 2060
Z Vertical = 300mm 2060
Y = 425mm 2060 (Mine currently is shorter than this because I miscalculated. This is what it should be at least. A little more wouldn't hurt anything)
X = 2x 350mm 2020
"Legs" = 1x 350mm 2020 and 1x 150mm 2020

Smooth Bars:
Same sizes as axes, 2 per axis.
11 or 12 lm8uu linear bearings

2x 220mm threaded rod. I use 5/16 since I'm in the US, but 8mm will work too.
Plus whatever Z couplers you prefer.

3 Nema 17 steppers
1 Nema 14 stepper (X axis)
Belts/pulleys/idlers are your personal preference. (I use T5, right off of my Prusa)

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Fabulous design, I might retire my non working Prusa (Polulus blown up) and make this instead with the parts, I might then make another Prusa.

Just a quick question, DKennels printer had all the motors at the bottom. Why have you put them at the top? (for Z of course) or is this just to keep the Prusa bits?
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I put the Z motors up top because it was just easier to get them out of the way. The Y motor is mounted right next to the vertical Z axis so it would be in the way of the second Z. With that in mind, this design doesnt need 2 Z motors. I only include them because I plan on adding a second extruder to it and I wanted to keep the Z speeds high. If interested, I can put together a quick single Z version. Then you can mount the Z on the bottom.

Missed that somehow. Very funny! :-D

why use nema 14 for x axis, cant use 17

You could use a '17 but then the y axis is moving a lot of mass around. Increasing the mass will decrease possible printing speeds

Hahahahaha the Krap Printer. Unintentional but fun ;) Looks like a good design too!

the name could use some work, I wouldn't want to call my printer crap... :)

Missed that somehow. Very funny! :-D

I thought the same thing....sorry Entropy! Looks cool though... DONT_KNOW

Which is why it's K-Rap, not crap.

Great to see how you plans worked out. I like you combination of extrusions and smooth rods/linear bearings. Also appreciate the documentation on your blog. I may try this approach on the little mill I am making if the printed slides aren't up to the stress of milling. Very nice work

I tried to get those slides to work with ABS but it wasn't happening. ABS was just too soft and they kept sticking, even with the hybrid bearing design. What bracing do you have between your Y and Vertical Z axes?

I just used three Misumi blind screws. which made my Z very rigid. Of course, my z axis is much shorter.

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